AASCO Flywheels put more power to the ground; Heeltoe Special Event Sale
04-24-2014, 11:53 PM
#41
Not true. We've gone through this over and over (and over) again with customers and claims of crankshaft wear or damages have been entirely unfounded when explored in the context of modern Honda engines when running aluminum pulleys and flywheels. Some engines definitely require such dampers but Honda engines by in large do not.
A flywheel is a significantly less of a concern to change than even a pulley is since it is of larger mass and is additionally dampened through the transmission.
A flywheel is a significantly less of a concern to change than even a pulley is since it is of larger mass and is additionally dampened through the transmission.
04-27-2014, 01:05 AM
#43
Fsttyms1 also reported the same results with the same setup.
After doing some homework, it seems many cars have the same problem when they lighten the crank too much.
Last edited by Karanx7; 04-27-2014 at 01:09 AM.
04-27-2014, 01:12 AM
#44
I think the idea is that the crank position sensor is measuring the speed of the rotating crank, and it is accelerating/decelerating too fast beyond the OEM spec. This can send a misfire code.
Either way, using the AASCO flywheel with a lightweight crank pulley seems to cause an intermittent CEL.
Either way, using the AASCO flywheel with a lightweight crank pulley seems to cause an intermittent CEL.
04-27-2014, 08:29 AM
#45
i also have to chime in here and say... for all of those who like 1/4 mile.. you will likely go faster with a stage 3 clutch and the oem flywheel...
why?
i had a fidanza lightweight flywheel put on my last car (my FORD PROBELM) the 1st gear became crazy fast, but then when u shift the clutch overpowers the flywheel so much it actually looses the flow the car used to have with the heavy stock flywheel. when i would shift the revs would instantly go down, with no progression... no flow like it used to.
the rotating mass on the flywheel is basically giving the car inertia to continue using when changing gears. this property is completely lost when the flywheel is super light. my car actually got slower overall with the lightweight flywheel, and that was the only mod that was done so i know for that car at least it did not help. after first gear the car was just slower all around, my top speed dropped by 12km/h so clearly the rotational mass was helping my car as it did not have enough power and the flywheel being heavy must have been giving it a hand cause of its rotational mass.
Where did i come up with this information?
My parent's long time family friend use to be a legit drag racer, and also a circuit racer. He said he always wanted the most rotational mass because it kept the engine revs up when shifting gears. I asked when is a light flywheel the right choice the? he said, circuit racing... or basically any type of racing that makes you have to downshift and brake. Another way he explained the whole deal is.. the more weight you have spinning the more inertia you have, the harder it is to slow you down. JUst like a loaded truck trying to stop vs an empty one. Once that mass is moving it is on YOUR side. getting it moving tho is where its less effective than a lightweight flywheel. which is why a lightweight flywheel does very little if u already got ur revs up and are just pounding through gears on a straight.
LOL by that point i had already purchased the flywheel so i was doing it anyways. but shit, he was more than right after I experienced what it did to my car.
BUt the pros to the flywheel are... much less wear on the clutch, downshifting becomes much easier to rev match and more fluent due to how light it is. Drivetrain takes much less of a beating
So from my experience the lightweight flywheel is not all it is made out to be. I would recommend if you get the lightweight flywheel to NOT upgrade the clutch. by lightening the flywheel you are in essence already increasing the strength of the clutch cause it has much less work to do cause the flywheel is so much lighter to grab.
i can only imagine how sensitive it must be with the light flywheel and a stage 2-3 clutch, that would likely be a pain to drive lol.
why?
i had a fidanza lightweight flywheel put on my last car (my FORD PROBELM) the 1st gear became crazy fast, but then when u shift the clutch overpowers the flywheel so much it actually looses the flow the car used to have with the heavy stock flywheel. when i would shift the revs would instantly go down, with no progression... no flow like it used to.
the rotating mass on the flywheel is basically giving the car inertia to continue using when changing gears. this property is completely lost when the flywheel is super light. my car actually got slower overall with the lightweight flywheel, and that was the only mod that was done so i know for that car at least it did not help. after first gear the car was just slower all around, my top speed dropped by 12km/h so clearly the rotational mass was helping my car as it did not have enough power and the flywheel being heavy must have been giving it a hand cause of its rotational mass.
Where did i come up with this information?
My parent's long time family friend use to be a legit drag racer, and also a circuit racer. He said he always wanted the most rotational mass because it kept the engine revs up when shifting gears. I asked when is a light flywheel the right choice the? he said, circuit racing... or basically any type of racing that makes you have to downshift and brake. Another way he explained the whole deal is.. the more weight you have spinning the more inertia you have, the harder it is to slow you down. JUst like a loaded truck trying to stop vs an empty one. Once that mass is moving it is on YOUR side. getting it moving tho is where its less effective than a lightweight flywheel. which is why a lightweight flywheel does very little if u already got ur revs up and are just pounding through gears on a straight.
LOL by that point i had already purchased the flywheel so i was doing it anyways. but shit, he was more than right after I experienced what it did to my car.
BUt the pros to the flywheel are... much less wear on the clutch, downshifting becomes much easier to rev match and more fluent due to how light it is. Drivetrain takes much less of a beating
So from my experience the lightweight flywheel is not all it is made out to be. I would recommend if you get the lightweight flywheel to NOT upgrade the clutch. by lightening the flywheel you are in essence already increasing the strength of the clutch cause it has much less work to do cause the flywheel is so much lighter to grab.
i can only imagine how sensitive it must be with the light flywheel and a stage 2-3 clutch, that would likely be a pain to drive lol.
04-27-2014, 06:17 PM
#46
Interesting post there...odd mix of technical facts and creative word choice.
I think when you say "flow" you really mean to say "rev hang." Yes, the same think that causes the engine slow to accelerate is the will cause it slow to decelerate as well. It is inertia.
The more mass on the crank, the less it wants to slow down. So for high speed you don't mind a little more mass there. The inertia of the flywheel will help counteract the force of drag on the car. Also, it helps off the line because less revs are needed get the car going when the flywheel has some momentum.
However, there is no disputing that removing mass will allow faster acceleration of the crank (both positive and negative), and therefore the car. The car will pull harder with a lighter flywheel.
The loss of momentum in gear changes has a lot to do with the calibration of the computer, the speed of the gear changes, and the gear ratios.
"Not what it is made out to be" maybe depends on how you interpret the facts."Not for everyone" may be more accurate.
I think when you say "flow" you really mean to say "rev hang." Yes, the same think that causes the engine slow to accelerate is the will cause it slow to decelerate as well. It is inertia.
The more mass on the crank, the less it wants to slow down. So for high speed you don't mind a little more mass there. The inertia of the flywheel will help counteract the force of drag on the car. Also, it helps off the line because less revs are needed get the car going when the flywheel has some momentum.
However, there is no disputing that removing mass will allow faster acceleration of the crank (both positive and negative), and therefore the car. The car will pull harder with a lighter flywheel.
The loss of momentum in gear changes has a lot to do with the calibration of the computer, the speed of the gear changes, and the gear ratios.
"Not what it is made out to be" maybe depends on how you interpret the facts."Not for everyone" may be more accurate.
04-27-2014, 06:51 PM
#47
The AASCO flywheel will produce a quicker 1/4 time than the stock OEM one.
The AASCO flywheel isn't really "light" weighing in around 12 lbs. It's just that our OEM flywheel is just too massive.
You don't want too much weight on the flywheel, and you don't want too little. A 1lb flywheel would kill your launch and shifts, while a 1000lb flywheel would accelerate way too slowly.
The ideal weight is between 8lbs to 15 lbs for most cases.
The AASCO flywheel isn't really "light" weighing in around 12 lbs. It's just that our OEM flywheel is just too massive.
You don't want too much weight on the flywheel, and you don't want too little. A 1lb flywheel would kill your launch and shifts, while a 1000lb flywheel would accelerate way too slowly.
The ideal weight is between 8lbs to 15 lbs for most cases.
05-10-2014, 03:50 PM
#49
Senior Moderator
Not sure, but the engine runs fine. The car is falsely reporting a misfire. Only happens when using BOTH an AASCO flywheel and a lightweight Cranks pulley.
Fsttyms1 also reported the same results with the same setup.
After doing some homework, it seems many cars have the same problem when they lighten the crank too much.
Fsttyms1 also reported the same results with the same setup.
After doing some homework, it seems many cars have the same problem when they lighten the crank too much.
I think the idea is that the crank position sensor is measuring the speed of the rotating crank, and it is accelerating/decelerating too fast beyond the OEM spec. This can send a misfire code.
Either way, using the AASCO flywheel with a lightweight crank pulley seems to cause an intermittent CEL.
Either way, using the AASCO flywheel with a lightweight crank pulley seems to cause an intermittent CEL.
that is what im noticing and believe as well.
05-10-2014, 03:53 PM
#50
Senior Moderator
The AASCO flywheel will produce a quicker 1/4 time than the stock OEM one.
The AASCO flywheel isn't really "light" weighing in around 12 lbs. It's just that our OEM flywheel is just too massive.
You don't want too much weight on the flywheel, and you don't want too little. A 1lb flywheel would kill your launch and shifts, while a 1000lb flywheel would accelerate way too slowly.
The ideal weight is between 8lbs to 15 lbs for most cases.
The AASCO flywheel isn't really "light" weighing in around 12 lbs. It's just that our OEM flywheel is just too massive.
You don't want too much weight on the flywheel, and you don't want too little. A 1lb flywheel would kill your launch and shifts, while a 1000lb flywheel would accelerate way too slowly.
The ideal weight is between 8lbs to 15 lbs for most cases.
And while a stock flywheel may be easier to drive for the average person in the 1/4, it is far better being light for everyday performance. The engine can accelerate and decelerate much faster, it frees up quite a bit of hp having that much less rotational mass and the engine is much more lively.
05-19-2014, 01:44 AM
#52
I just waited it out until I could pass the emissions on my scan tool, and drove to the smog place ASAP. CEL came on right after I left the passed the smog test.
Then it didn't come back for a week after reset. Just kind of random.
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