Car won't start... Help!!!
#1
Car won't start... Help!!!
I have a 2011 acura tl sh-awd. Was washing the car today, after I was done, I tried to start, no go, just the clicking noise. I did not wash anything in the engine bay. I changed my oil and rear differential fluid yesterday, drove around today no problems.
I tried to jump start the car with a jump pack, no go, just clicks. The brake pedal feels extra stiff when i press the push to start button. Headlights turn on, no flicker or dimness.
any ideas?
I tried to jump start the car with a jump pack, no go, just clicks. The brake pedal feels extra stiff when i press the push to start button. Headlights turn on, no flicker or dimness.
any ideas?
#2
try sticking in the key to the slot and starting it.. maybe your key is not reading with the car..
if that doesnt work, disconnect the battery wait 30 secs and reconnect it.. see if that would work
if that doesnt work, disconnect the battery wait 30 secs and reconnect it.. see if that would work
#3
I tried disconnecting the battery this morning, still no go. The weird thing is that accessories still work. Would the brake pedal being heavy indicate that there is some kind of security measure with the alarm to disable push start?
#4
sounds like a dead alternator or starter... if your car is still within warranty i would call acura and have them come and tow the car for you for free.. just make sure you dont have any aftermarket electrical on the car like a aftermarket sounds system.. or else they will start playing the finger game with you
#5
sounds like a dead alternator or starter... if your car is still within warranty i would call acura and have them come and tow the car for you for free.. just make sure you dont have any aftermarket electrical on the car like a aftermarket sounds system.. or else they will start playing the finger game with you
Check VSA system
Check ABS system
Check Hill Start Assist System
And the indicator lights on the dash are on for those items.
Anyone familiar with this problem? I will bring it to the dealer tomorrow. I have not installed anything aftermarket, everything is stock.
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#8
Went to the dealer today to check it out. They tested the battery said it was fine, reset the codes, and everything went away. Very strange, and no real explanation from the service guy. I detached the battery for about 5 minutes the other day and the codes were still there.
#9
Went to the dealer today to check it out. They tested the battery said it was fine, reset the codes, and everything went away. Very strange, and no real explanation from the service guy. I detached the battery for about 5 minutes the other day and the codes were still there.
If you had the radio playing while you were washing the car, it will kill the battery. If during the winter you find your car starts slowly, replace the battery. Its not good to run a battery down to the point it will not start the car.
If you did not have the radio on or any accessories, then I would replace the battery now.
#11
I had the same happen to me about a month ago. I had to jump start the car many times a week.
My mechanic thought it was the positive terminal wiring harness, so I bought a new one from Acura for ~$70. I still had starting problems a few days later. Then he checked the water levels in the battery, and some of them were low, so he leveled it out. Still had problems later again.
I ended up replacing the stock battery with a $120 Duralast battery, with $15 trade in from the old battery. I made sure to get the one that has more than 700 CCAs.
This was on a 2010 TL SH-AWD.
My mechanic thought it was the positive terminal wiring harness, so I bought a new one from Acura for ~$70. I still had starting problems a few days later. Then he checked the water levels in the battery, and some of them were low, so he leveled it out. Still had problems later again.
I ended up replacing the stock battery with a $120 Duralast battery, with $15 trade in from the old battery. I made sure to get the one that has more than 700 CCAs.
This was on a 2010 TL SH-AWD.
#12
battery is known to have a issue for these 4th gen tl.. let alone the whole acura line up.. my battery got replace the first 3 months of ownership back in 2010.. but never happened again.. i guess when a battery is not being used as the car sits on the lot for days or even months it does die out
#14
Yeah, all the power accessories take a toll on the battery. Almost everything has a trickle scavenging drain on it. Replace it with the best ya can afford and keep the warranty documentation for future reference. A weak battery is hard on the alternator and the entire electrical charging system. Replacing it will give ya some peace of mind and cheaper than an unexpected breakdown.
#15
try turning the key while pumping the accelerator and turning the wheel back and forth? could be your battery isnt running on the full voltage needed, or your alternator is bad and is draining your battery to start your car.
#16
I know this is a old post but I literally just ran into the same exact problem as fozzythebear has described. Is there anyone with any additional updated information regarding this issue??? Please help as I'm stuck stranded out of town atm. Thxs, Rich.
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echodigital (06-16-2017)
#21
Ran into this today. I figured it was the battery too, so I replaced it with a brand new duracell from Sam's. Same behavior with the new battery. Press button, I hear the relay click, but nothing from the starter at all (at least nothing I can hear). Weird thing is it was the 2nd start of the day, 1st start in my garage was fine. Has anyone had any issues with starting that *aren't* the battery? I'm not getting any low 12V warnings on the dash or anything. Just nada when I try to start the car. Accessories and everything work fine like some of the others have posted.
If my fob battery was low, would the starter relay still click over? I would assume not and that the car would ask me to insert the key right?
If my fob battery was low, would the starter relay still click over? I would assume not and that the car would ask me to insert the key right?
#22
Just a quick Update/heads up to anyone that’s came across this problem. So it seems it was a main fuse that interacts with the pushstart button. It was replaced and all was fine, at least that was my problem/issue at the time. Hope this helps.
Last edited by RICHDAKIDD; 02-12-2018 at 12:07 PM.
#23
Wanted to add that by starter I meant solenoid. It's early and "cold" in Texas so my brain wasn't working so great. Sounds like strong engagement from the solenoid but nothing from the starter. I'm probably gonna double check my terminals and all the grounding tonight and see if there's anything wrong before moving on to ordering a new starter. Seems weird for it to go out in 6 years/72k miles or so.
#25
Wanted to add that by starter I meant solenoid. It's early and "cold" in Texas so my brain wasn't working so great. Sounds like strong engagement from the solenoid but nothing from the starter. I'm probably gonna double check my terminals and all the grounding tonight and see if there's anything wrong before moving on to ordering a new starter. Seems weird for it to go out in 6 years/72k miles or so.
You can see/hear that there's a major voltage drop when engaging the solenoid and not just the motor. I don't know what was causing it but the replacement tested out just fine, so I put it in and the car fired right up. Just a heads-up for anyone chasing starting issues. If you hear the solenoid clunking but no engine turning over, it may very well be the starter.
#26
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#27
IF you get bored - Blow out the fuse in the rear view mirror (it is number 13 driver side) and now your car will not start. If will crank and sound like it will start and it might for 2 secs but it wont stay running and turning the car to off on push button start becomes a major pain.
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