Hello everyone, I'm new here. I have an Acura 2000 TL3.2. I have been the only owner of the car. I just turned over 153K mi and my ABS/TCS lights just came on. I took it to three different auto parts stores to scan, and none of them could read my ABS codes. One store even claimed he had a new model scanner. Does anyone know of a brand/model scanner that is on the cheap side that will work for me? I just wanted to get these codes so I know where to begin looking for the problem.

 

How about a Creator model C330?

 

Sounds like it could be a wheel speed sensor on your of your wheels. Have you had any work done recently or potentially driven through a large puddle which may have shorted one of them?

 

I agree on wheel speed sensor failure

Does the cruise control work?
Does the ABS work- if you stomp the brakes at 45mph on wet or gravel surface and swerving steering wheel to break traction=
If working the ABS will rapidly pump the brake pedal under your foot
If that's working = its not a wheel speed sensor

Easy to put the car on ramps or jack stands and have a look at each wheel
Crud gets in the reader bumps on axle hub or sensor gets loose or wires corrode from salt exposure or other factors
One can be damaged during a brake job if not careful~

or go to a brake specialty shop for a reading- they have the ABS reader tool
You got NO codes at all from a regular, or `special ` code scanner?
Battery is known good- recently tested as good at parts store?
Low volts or bad grounds will send false messages!

 

Cruise control works, and I checked everything electrical. It all works right down to my heated mirrors and seats...well, the lights come on anyway. I checked every fuse that was labeled ABS or TCS on both sides under dash and under hood. I think there were 5 all together. Battery is good (voltmeter).

It was a rainy day. I parked the car. Went in to eat lunch. When I came out and started the car, backed up, and started moving I noticed the ABS/TCS lights were on. Things have dried out since then, but lights are still on. I even pulled the negative terminal on the battery for about 5 minutes. Still on.

I'm not a mechanic. I'm a IT manager forced into an early retirement. My tools are a floor jack and a lug wrench. Ha. I just wanted to save some cash as it's in short supply.

I appreciate the help guys, and thanks. I'll let you know.

 

The ABS Codes can only be read with a specific OBD II scanner designed for ACURAs..

When looking for the codes with an Aftermarket PRO Scanner have the tech go through HONDA Settings! NOT ACURA! Honda Settings > ABS Codes.
Otherwise he will be lost trying to pull Acura Specific ABS codes.

 

if cruise works its NOT a wheel speed sensor

 

I've never seen a wheel speed sensor interfere with cruise control on a honda / acura.
Check brake shops as 01tl suggested, or independent repair shops. The full feature scanners from Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Launch, etc. will read abs codes.

 

That's not entirely true. You can jump ports 8 and 13 in the OBD II with a paper clip or a wire to read codes. Turn the car to on and the ABS light will flash. The amount of flashes signals the what the code is.

 

I don't know if this will always be the case, but I noticed a big difference in resistance between a bad wheel speed sensor (.5meg) and a good one 1500 ohms. Its a quick check for comparison between the front left and right.
After replacin the bad sensor (front-left) both ABS and TCS lights went off.
$40 for part at O'reilley. For aome reason Autozone didnt stock the front left????

 

So wait wait.... Jumping 2 hard to reach pins is easier than to set the OBDII Scanner to read Honda ABS Codes?..

I was commenting on his ""I took it to three different auto parts stores to scan, and none of them could read my ABS codes"" My answer obviously implies the use of an OBDII Scanner... Not to read the ABS Codes Manually which has its own segment in the Service Manual.

 

I like this idea. Easy to do. Is this from the service manual?

 

1500 ohms on a good one. This is something else I can do...if I can find the connectors. Thanks for the tip.

 

I ordered a Creator model C330 from Hong Kong. I figured this would be a good investment for this and future problems. Only $65+free s&h. They claim it scans everything on the Honda/Acura from 97-2013. And it's firmware is upgradeable via the usb port. Problem is that it will probably take a while to get here from Hong Kong.

 

Yeah, it took a lot of searching because I've never seen it done on this site before that I could find, but this is what it should look like when done.

http://youtu.be/qKPrzBJ-ULw

This link will explain what the flashing lights mean. It was nice for me because none of the stores around here that do free code readings could do the ABS sensor.



http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-6/ecu-abs-codes-here-978933/

 

Thanks! Is there a blue connector similar to the Integra in the 00 TL above the right kickpad? I was wondering how you knew to jump pins 8 & 13 of the OBDII connector.

 

I tried looking for one under the glove box and didn't see it. It might be there, but I couldn't find. I new to jump those, because I saw a previous thread were a guy mentioned doing it, and I saw a YouTube video of it working on a Honda Accord. I figured the Acura would work the same, and sure enough it did.

Just make sure you don't start the car, and you'll be fine. I took my jumpers out and it was fine.

 

I was getting ready to try this when I noticed in your picture you show pins 8 & 12 jumped, rather than 8 & 13. Are you sure this picture is correct?

 

Oops. Sorry about that. I was counting from the other end.

 

Results from jumping pins 8 & 13: ABS DTC codes 13, 16, & 61. I looked them up...LFWS and RRWS and low ignition voltage. TCS is okay.

 

LFWS - Left Front Wheel Sensor?
RRWS - Right Rear Wheel Sensor?

I'm guessing

 

That is correct.

 

So you have two faulty Wheel Sensors as I suspected, but the cruise control still works. Interesting......

 

Well I verified (code 13) the LFWS was open. Comparatively the RFWS reads about 1.34K ohms (the good sensor).

The other (code 16) I'll have to pull the RR wheel. Or remove the right side kick pad to access the ABS/TCS module connector. I think thats easier.

Not sure what the low ignition voltage code (61) was all about. Unless it was because the fan was on and the interior lights when I checked the codes...the voltmeter shows 12 Volts. And when the car starts it is 14.6 Volts. Go figure.

 

Yes, the cruise definitely works. It must use a speed sensor, which is not associated with the wheels. Seems to me I saw this whilst Googling somewhere. Perhaps on the transmission.

 

Can I ask where you checked for code 61? Mine is also throwing that code but sadly mine is also throwing 81 (central processing unit), 53 motor stuck on (not sure what that means?), and 31, solenoid (short to body ground/ short to wire).

I am afraid 81 might mean the entire unit is going out. However, tomorrow I am going to take the volt meter and see what I can get.

 

hey curious,,,give us car year- model, symptoms, codes and failed repair attempts so far--someone will have encountered whatever is happening
If you a really gen3 there will be more help over there,, than in our gen2 section

We don't get many control box failures

Bad ground wires--oh yeah!!!!,,and the new-found one of main battery neg cable comes loose inside its connector to frame,,,cooool

Have you cleaned all grounds and ckd resistance on cables?
test battery= is it losing volts overnight then goes full 14 because alt is working?

 

I have a voltmeter integrated in my radar detector. That's how I verified the voltage. But have I checked voltage right at the ABS connector itself? No. I went ahead and ordered the parts. I'll worry about my voltage error after I install the wheel sensors. Good luck with your diagnostics.

 

what do the wheel sensors run $$ ?

 

Ready for an interesting twist? I found this block sitting under the ABS unit. Any idea what it is?

 

I think that is suppose to attach to your engine mount. Its a damper and a worn/broken mount usually causes them to fall off. Your mount is most likely bad at this point.

 

Got mine on eBay for $16 and $17 (these are not OEM parts). If you want OEM you're going to pay considerably more.

 

I also bought mine on eBay for around that price. Works just fine.