Replaced my motor mounts (pics inside)
#1
Replaced my motor mounts (pics inside)
i replace my front and side motor mount because my car was
vibrating
making hard metal to metal noise drive to reverse
rough idle but less vibration in neutral
Turning the car off would give a heavy shake.
if you experience any of this problems then you might have a bad mount. The front was completly gone (broken in 2 pieces), i could even say that i did not have a front motor mount because the metal bar cover was the only thing holding the engine (not the mount). i Changed the side mount which wasn't bad but maybe weak because when the front mount goes out, the next one to go is the side.
After replacing the mounts my car has non of the problem i mention. The new problem i'm having is knowing if my car is actually on . There's virtually no vibration when engine is on. This is an engine with 135k and still feels like new.
hope this might help you out.
vibrating
making hard metal to metal noise drive to reverse
rough idle but less vibration in neutral
Turning the car off would give a heavy shake.
if you experience any of this problems then you might have a bad mount. The front was completly gone (broken in 2 pieces), i could even say that i did not have a front motor mount because the metal bar cover was the only thing holding the engine (not the mount). i Changed the side mount which wasn't bad but maybe weak because when the front mount goes out, the next one to go is the side.
After replacing the mounts my car has non of the problem i mention. The new problem i'm having is knowing if my car is actually on . There's virtually no vibration when engine is on. This is an engine with 135k and still feels like new.
hope this might help you out.
#3
Intermediate
I was just informed from my dealer that 2 of my motor mounts were broken. At first i thought it was a transmission problem and my car even hesitates a little bit. There is a noise everytime i start the car up as well. I was informed if I get them fixed all these problems would be resolved. were you experiencing this as well? Just trying to get some feedback from someone whos been through this before.
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Kev1n (01-22-2014)
#6
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
If your side mounts blown then your front mount is more then likely toast as well. Replace both.
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Kev1n (01-22-2014)
#7
אני עומד עם ישראל
Mounts lasted around 135k? Very spirited driving too I would assume? Not too shabby for a FWD V6...
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#9
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Front mount doesn't always show signs of failure like the side mount. The failure of either is indicative of harsh wear and eventual failure in the other. You'll know if your rear mount is gone if your car vibrates excessively when idling in gear.
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Kev1n (01-22-2014)
#11
7th Gear
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I just posted a response today about replacing the engine mounts in my '06 Acura TL ABP/Camel w/Navi with thread: "car is shaking in the morning while engine is cold."
My car had a rough idle in the mornings that would eventually dissipate after driving around for a while. I've seen many posts that say it's part of the engine's warm up process (related to V-tec) and that if it goes away, then it's fine.
I still wanted to get my car checked out, so I dropped it off at an Acura Specialist here in San Francisco. They found that both the front engine mount and right side engine mount were cracked. So they went about the repair and fixed a couple other minor issues and that was that. I picked the car up, and on my way home felt that the idle was even more rough and noticeable than before I even knew about the engine mount issue. So I called my Acura guy- he said bring it right back so I did. They spent another hour or so tightening the mounts and tweaking things here and there with the engine. After that- I drove off once again, and this time there was NO rough idle at all. In fact- when I was stopped at a light, I couldn't even tell if the car was on or not!
I'm sure there may be many reasons for a rough idle, but having an Acura specialist replace your engine mounts while also ensuring everything is reset to factory specs makes a world of difference in the ride. Mine still has a somewhat rough idle in the morning- bout 3-4 minutes of driving and it's gone and completely smooth.
My car had a rough idle in the mornings that would eventually dissipate after driving around for a while. I've seen many posts that say it's part of the engine's warm up process (related to V-tec) and that if it goes away, then it's fine.
I still wanted to get my car checked out, so I dropped it off at an Acura Specialist here in San Francisco. They found that both the front engine mount and right side engine mount were cracked. So they went about the repair and fixed a couple other minor issues and that was that. I picked the car up, and on my way home felt that the idle was even more rough and noticeable than before I even knew about the engine mount issue. So I called my Acura guy- he said bring it right back so I did. They spent another hour or so tightening the mounts and tweaking things here and there with the engine. After that- I drove off once again, and this time there was NO rough idle at all. In fact- when I was stopped at a light, I couldn't even tell if the car was on or not!
I'm sure there may be many reasons for a rough idle, but having an Acura specialist replace your engine mounts while also ensuring everything is reset to factory specs makes a world of difference in the ride. Mine still has a somewhat rough idle in the morning- bout 3-4 minutes of driving and it's gone and completely smooth.
#12
2006 Acura TL with nav
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Can anyone point out where these are? I know my side mount is busted maybe the front too. like to change them myself is it easy to do or do you need to take out half the engine to do it? anyone have the service manual for this procedure?
#13
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Forgive me if this is too vague... when my mechanic was pointing out which engine mounts needed to be replaced on my car, I was able to see for the most part where they're at. The side motor mount I had replaced was located on the right side of the car in the very middle of the front side panel. You need to pull of the black plastic engine covers and you'll see there's a huge circular bolt. It was quick and easy for them to work on the side motor mount (cost about $118 with parts and labor, although not sure if it's a good idea for a home project), however, the front motor mount is located deep in the engine, somewhat below the grill if you were picturing it from the exterior. Because it's so far down, it forces one to spend a few extra hours removing several engine components first. It's a somewhat major job and I wouldn't recommend it for a home fix...
Hope that helps!
Hope that helps!
#14
just out of curiosity, did you guys replace the mounts yourself? if not, did the dealer do it and if so, how much were you quoted? i have an 05 and was advised that my front and side mounts were cracked. also, how soon do you think this replacement needs to be done? thanks.
#15
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Mounts aren't all that difficult to replace. Remove bolts on the mounts, support the engine with a hydraulic jack stand and a 2x4 under the oil pan (You can do a two point support under the engine trans as well) then unsecure the mount from the block and replace. Getting to the rear mount will require you to lean over the intake manifold.. removing the strut tower makes it easier to reach back there as well.
#16
ok i have an 08 type s with 30k on it. I notice a lot of vibration especially when the A/C is on. Could this be caused by the motor mounts? i am do for an oil change soon. Should i have them check the mounts while they are changing the oil??
#18
there was no oil in the front motor mount but i had the feeling it was broken. when i use to turn off the car i would heard a loud metal to metal bang. Also rough vibration when idleling. one of the pictures you see which is crack on the top, all the oil came out of there. the mount was already broken from the top when it was pull out of the engine.
i went to my fathers shop and one of his mechanic check to see if any motor mount was broken. after the small test of holding the brake and accelating it was obvious that the front was out when i saw the engine jumping so high to the back.
#19
reconfirmed w/another body shop that my front and side mounts were indeed cracked. how soon do you guys think that the replacements need to be done before it gets worse? any advice is appreciated. thanks/
#20
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
sooner the better.
#21
Majofo, dude, stop giving such advice as it is easy to replace mounts.. It is easy for people like us who actually know what we are doing... A little over-raise of the engine, and they are done...
OEM mounts suck, I'm running innovative mounts, though I miss the smoothness and quietness of stock, but the performance gained with innovative is incredible.
On OEM - if you feel the engine rocking and/or kicking..examine your mounts! Have someone switch gear (drive/neutral/reverse) while holding brake...pop the hood, see if the engine jumps...
If one fails, it puts pressure on the other ones, and they will fail.. usually, front goes first, then rear, than side...and then tranny mount, which will be expensive!!
OEM mounts suck, I'm running innovative mounts, though I miss the smoothness and quietness of stock, but the performance gained with innovative is incredible.
On OEM - if you feel the engine rocking and/or kicking..examine your mounts! Have someone switch gear (drive/neutral/reverse) while holding brake...pop the hood, see if the engine jumps...
If one fails, it puts pressure on the other ones, and they will fail.. usually, front goes first, then rear, than side...and then tranny mount, which will be expensive!!
#22
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I never said it was easy but after a few changes I'm sure it becomes routine. It still takes diligence, patience and a little elbow grease. Having the service manual to check the torque specs is useful as well.
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s2000gtx (04-18-2014)
#24
Cool, but please remember you will have vibration in the cabin...especially with A/C on... this is the only drawback..is that you will feel the engine... Make sure you use thread-lock on the bolts. Once you drive for a few days the engine will settle in, the vibration will minimize, but it will never truly diminish.
#25
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#26
Majofo, dude, stop giving such advice as it is easy to replace mounts.. It is easy for people like us who actually know what we are doing... A little over-raise of the engine, and they are done...
OEM mounts suck, I'm running innovative mounts, though I miss the smoothness and quietness of stock, but the performance gained with innovative is incredible.
On OEM - if you feel the engine rocking and/or kicking..examine your mounts! Have someone switch gear (drive/neutral/reverse) while holding brake...pop the hood, see if the engine jumps...
If one fails, it puts pressure on the other ones, and they will fail.. usually, front goes first, then rear, than side...and then tranny mount, which will be expensive!!
OEM mounts suck, I'm running innovative mounts, though I miss the smoothness and quietness of stock, but the performance gained with innovative is incredible.
On OEM - if you feel the engine rocking and/or kicking..examine your mounts! Have someone switch gear (drive/neutral/reverse) while holding brake...pop the hood, see if the engine jumps...
If one fails, it puts pressure on the other ones, and they will fail.. usually, front goes first, then rear, than side...and then tranny mount, which will be expensive!!
#27
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
No the transmission has it's own separate mounts, which vary depending if you have an AT or MT. The motor mounts are located in the front, rear and side of the block.. you can't miss them.
Last edited by Majofo; 05-28-2010 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Added Cap
#28
i thought our engine had 3 mounts only including the tranny. i went with the oem version cause i don't race and drive in the city like an old lady (30mph), so i wanted the feeling of smoothness and no vibration. can someone point me into a diagrams were all the mounts are? and i read before that in our tls usually the front mount goes out first, then side, and then rear which is the reason i replace the front and just in case replace the side but notice it was in fair shape.
#29
LIST/RAMEN/WING MAHSTA 짱
iTrader: (16)
i thought our engine had 3 mounts only including the tranny. i went with the oem version cause i don't race and drive in the city like an old lady (30mph), so i wanted the feeling of smoothness and no vibration. can someone point me into a diagrams were all the mounts are? and i read before that in our tls usually the front mount goes out first, then side, and then rear which is the reason i replace the front and just in case replace the side but notice it was in fair shape.
#30
just got the 62A bushings...vibrations are noticeable, so after reading the other posts, i presume this is normal? only replaced the front and side mounts as they were definitely broken. the rear i kept oem. hoping that vibrations will minimize in the upcoming days.
#32
Cruisin'
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So I'm needing to replace my front and side engine mounts. I was looking to buy OE parts online. Do I need to purchase the mounting bracket or is the rubber assembly sufficient?
#34
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#36
Advanced
Have the same problem on my 05 with 52k miles...started as vibrations at idle (in drive or reverse) when the AC was on....now it's getting worse doing it w/o AC
#37
My 04 6MT needs them changed as well. I get bad, and I mean really bad shaking right at 65mph, hills are even worse. I was quoted around $630 from the dealer for the front and side mount replacements, but I was considering getting the parts and having a local shop install.
#38
Three Wheelin'
My 04 6MT needs them changed as well. I get bad, and I mean really bad shaking right at 65mph, hills are even worse. I was quoted around $630 from the dealer for the front and side mount replacements, but I was considering getting the parts and having a local shop install.
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Last edited by Riga89; 09-14-2010 at 10:13 PM.
#40
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From acuraoemparts.com, here are the the part numbers for the Automatic Transmission (AT):
50820-SEP-A02
50830-SEP-A03
50810-SEP-A04
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
50820-SEP-A02
50830-SEP-A03
50810-SEP-A04
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no