Drive belt need replacement?
#1
Drive belt need replacement?
So I'm getting some noise from where the dirve belt area is. It's not squeaking but has this sound that maybe a bearing is going bad in the pulley? Also the belt seems to be quite dirty or maybe old.
I'm at 76,600mi and it's never been replaced.
I can take video of it sometime later today.
I'm at 76,600mi and it's never been replaced.
I can take video of it sometime later today.
#3
I changed mine right around that mileage, which I believe was in the spring of 2012. Mine had that same brown tint to it. The belt was fine; I just didn't like the fact it looked crappy. It's up to you. Inspect it for cracks and if you find none, it's purely cosmetic.
#4
Did you replace it yourself or had it done? How much did it cost you if so?
I'll have to record
#5
I literally just changed mine this past saturday... Looked exactly like yours and i have 115k miles on my tl
I had some noise coming from the belt area too. So i went ahead and changed the belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley and the noise went away and i have the piece of mind it has a brand new belt on..
I had some noise coming from the belt area too. So i went ahead and changed the belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley and the noise went away and i have the piece of mind it has a brand new belt on..
#6
If it's not squealing, it's not the belt making noise. Probably the tensioner. I changed the belt myself. It's a simple ten minute job.
#7
First thing to do is to just flex the tensioner a few times and then see if the noise went away. If not:
Then remove and replace the belt (same belt). Then start the car and see if the noise went away.
If neither of those works, then my bet is the tensioner.
FWIW, I replaced my serpentine belt at 106K along with the TB.
Then remove and replace the belt (same belt). Then start the car and see if the noise went away.
If neither of those works, then my bet is the tensioner.
FWIW, I replaced my serpentine belt at 106K along with the TB.
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#9
I literally just changed mine this past saturday... Looked exactly like yours and i have 115k miles on my tl
I had some noise coming from the belt area too. So i went ahead and changed the belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley and the noise went away and i have the piece of mind it has a brand new belt on..
I had some noise coming from the belt area too. So i went ahead and changed the belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley and the noise went away and i have the piece of mind it has a brand new belt on..
First thing to do is to just flex the tensioner a few times and then see if the noise went away. If not:
Then remove and replace the belt (same belt). Then start the car and see if the noise went away.
If neither of those works, then my bet is the tensioner.
FWIW, I replaced my serpentine belt at 106K along with the TB.
Then remove and replace the belt (same belt). Then start the car and see if the noise went away.
If neither of those works, then my bet is the tensioner.
FWIW, I replaced my serpentine belt at 106K along with the TB.
I was thinking it might be the tensioner or one of the pulleys going bad.
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dezymond (06-02-2015)
#12
Alright, yeah I been driving with that sound for a few thousand miles and haven't really notice any differences in the way it drives. Doesn't seem to be too urgent to needing replacement, but I'll definitely get to it.
I don't feel comfortable messing with the belt components (unless someone around the Bay Area wants to teach me) so I have to find some time to get it to the dealer (don't worry I don't get typical customer prices). RockAuto the place to get parts? What parts would I need (belt, idler pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley?)
Appreciate all the help
I don't feel comfortable messing with the belt components (unless someone around the Bay Area wants to teach me) so I have to find some time to get it to the dealer (don't worry I don't get typical customer prices). RockAuto the place to get parts? What parts would I need (belt, idler pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley?)
Appreciate all the help
Last edited by dezymond; 06-02-2015 at 02:00 PM.
#13
Alright, yeah I been driving with that sound for a few thousand miles and haven't really notice any differences in the way it drives. Doesn't seem to be too urgent to needing replacement, but I'll definitely get to it.
I don't feel comfortable messing with the belt components (unless someone around the Bay Area wants to teach me) so I have to find some time to get it to the dealer (don't worry I don't get typical customer prices). RockAuto the place to get parts? What parts would I need (belt, idler pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley?)
Appreciate all the help
I don't feel comfortable messing with the belt components (unless someone around the Bay Area wants to teach me) so I have to find some time to get it to the dealer (don't worry I don't get typical customer prices). RockAuto the place to get parts? What parts would I need (belt, idler pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley?)
Appreciate all the help
The belt itself has no teeth therefore it's not on a precise timing or anything of the sort. Re-installing it is as simple as putting it back on the pulleys.
If it turns out to be the PS pump pulley, you can try to find a bearing or you can also get a pump for ~$175. You'll need that, PS fluid, and ideally the drive belt itself since it's so cheap. You might want to look into replacing the tensioner (~$80) too.
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dezymond (06-02-2015)
#14
The drive belt is very simply in the way it works. You can move the tensioner out of the way to remove the belt itself and turn the pulleys by hand to diagnose which pulley is grinding.
The belt itself has no teeth therefore it's not on a precise timing or anything of the sort. Re-installing it is as simple as putting it back on the pulleys.
If it turns out to be the PS pump pulley, you can try to find a bearing or you can also get a pump for ~$175. You'll need that, PS fluid, and ideally the drive belt itself since it's so cheap. You might want to look into replacing the tensioner (~$80) too.
The belt itself has no teeth therefore it's not on a precise timing or anything of the sort. Re-installing it is as simple as putting it back on the pulleys.
If it turns out to be the PS pump pulley, you can try to find a bearing or you can also get a pump for ~$175. You'll need that, PS fluid, and ideally the drive belt itself since it's so cheap. You might want to look into replacing the tensioner (~$80) too.
I just need to know which parts I need to get from RockAuto. I got a few friends over at local Honda dealer and being a former employee I still get pretty good rates, but not as steep a discount on parts like I used to. Which is why I'm looking at RockAuto.
I'm not saying your advice is useless to me Polo, I really do appreciate it. I'll definitely try to diagnose it myself, but in terms of getting new parts on there, I don't have the time, knowledge, tools, or confidence lol
Last edited by dezymond; 06-02-2015 at 02:58 PM.
#15
Here's a list of parts I think need:
Belt: More Information for GATES K060841
Idler Pulley: More Information for GATES 36112
Belt Tensioner: More Information for GATES 38332
Tensioner Pulley: More Information for GATES 38006
These are all Gates parts. I was not able to find a Power Steering Pulley. Am I missing anything else? I want to gather prices on rockauto before I compare them to what I would get at the dealer.
Belt: More Information for GATES K060841
Idler Pulley: More Information for GATES 36112
Belt Tensioner: More Information for GATES 38332
Tensioner Pulley: More Information for GATES 38006
These are all Gates parts. I was not able to find a Power Steering Pulley. Am I missing anything else? I want to gather prices on rockauto before I compare them to what I would get at the dealer.
#17
No wonder I couldn't just find the pulley part. Though I wasn't able to find any kits that include the power steering pump, just the unit itself.
Last edited by dezymond; 06-03-2015 at 09:40 AM.
#18
Like I said though, you still have to diagnose if it's the power steering pump making this (no need to change it if it's fine). It's hard for us to diagnose over the internet even with a video. It could well be the idle or the tensioner, they're all in the same area after all.
#19
Because it doesn't usually need to be replaced at the same time as the belt. Tensioner + idler + belt is the usual job.
Like I said though, you still have to diagnose if it's the power steering pump making this (no need to change it if it's fine). It's hard for us to diagnose over the internet even with a video. It could well be the idle or the tensioner, they're all in the same area after all.
Like I said though, you still have to diagnose if it's the power steering pump making this (no need to change it if it's fine). It's hard for us to diagnose over the internet even with a video. It could well be the idle or the tensioner, they're all in the same area after all.
Thanks!
#21
Hard to quantify how much wiggling is normal. It does move a bit, but it might move more than usual because the belt is stretched and the tensioner needs replacing. It shouldn't move much though, but once again, difficult to quantify.
#22
Very hard to pinpoint where the sound is and the only real way to tell is if I get the belt off, which I don't have time for.
Thanks for all your help Polo.
It didn't move around this much. Though did move around just a bit, maybe a little more wiggle than I've seen on others.
Bad Tensioner:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL5cM8UHvzg
"Normal" Tensioner?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1gAFijZMvQ
Last edited by dezymond; 06-03-2015 at 03:39 PM.
#23
So I'm going to pull the trigger and just order these parts. If I need a power steering pump then I'll just get it from Honda as the ones on RockAuto are all remanufactured.
So the kit:
More Information for GATES ACK060841
And idler pulley:
More Information for GATES 36112
Is this all I'll need? Other than a possible new steering pump?
So the kit:
More Information for GATES ACK060841
And idler pulley:
More Information for GATES 36112
Is this all I'll need? Other than a possible new steering pump?
#25
I just got a call from my friend at Honda so I'll be going to bring the car in later for him to look at. I told him I can get some parts myself, but I'm not too sure of the power steering pump as all the ones on RockAuto are remanufactured (in case that is the problem).
I'll report back later today. Hopefully he can just kinda eyeball and listen to it and not run through diagnostics. Either way if I have to replace the Power Steering pump I figured I'd replace the others anyway so I'll be ordering the belt + tensioner + idler pulley later today.
#26
No problem at all. You've been helped me a ton and I really do appreciate it.
I just got a call from my friend at Honda so I'll be going to bring the car in later for him to look at. I told him I can get some parts myself, but I'm not too sure of the power steering pump as all the ones on RockAuto are remanufactured (in case that is the problem).
I'll report back later today. Hopefully he can just kinda eyeball and listen to it and not run through diagnostics. Either way if I have to replace the Power Steering pump I figured I'd replace the others anyway so I'll be ordering the belt + tensioner + idler pulley later today.
I just got a call from my friend at Honda so I'll be going to bring the car in later for him to look at. I told him I can get some parts myself, but I'm not too sure of the power steering pump as all the ones on RockAuto are remanufactured (in case that is the problem).
I'll report back later today. Hopefully he can just kinda eyeball and listen to it and not run through diagnostics. Either way if I have to replace the Power Steering pump I figured I'd replace the others anyway so I'll be ordering the belt + tensioner + idler pulley later today.
#27
Shouldn't be very difficult if he takes the belt off. It's a 5 minute step. If all the pulleys seem to spin fine and the tensioner is stiff enough he will find it in a minute. Additionally a mechanic stethoscope/screwdriver can be used if it remains difficult (although I doubt it will be needed).
I've trusted your diagnosis so far just need a set of eyes and hands to really confirm it.
#29
Good thing is that it's cheaper than PS pump as you know haha
#30
I bought the parts from them (along with my usual part discount) so they knocked off labor by a significant amount, moreso than what I usually get. Glad I made friends with some mechanics during my short time working at the dealer.
Appreciate all your help and the advice of everyone else. AZ ftw, and a special thanks for following up on the thread everyday Polo. Seriously, thank you.
Last edited by dezymond; 06-04-2015 at 05:40 PM.
#31
I actually just had it fixed, wow it's quiet, been driving with a bad tensioner for along time so didn't know how quiet the car could be. lol
I bought the parts from them (along with my usual part discount) so they knocked off labor by a significant amount, moreso than what I usually get. Glad I made friends with some mechanics during my short time working at the dealer.
Appreciate all your help and the advice of everyone else. AZ ftw, and a special thanks for following up on the thread everyday Polo. Seriously, thank you.
I bought the parts from them (along with my usual part discount) so they knocked off labor by a significant amount, moreso than what I usually get. Glad I made friends with some mechanics during my short time working at the dealer.
Appreciate all your help and the advice of everyone else. AZ ftw, and a special thanks for following up on the thread everyday Polo. Seriously, thank you.
#32
Years ago this same guy looked at my old Civic. It wasn't blowing cold air anymore. I, for some reason at the time while working for the dealer, took it to an independent mechanic who told me the AC compressor was dead. I had my friend look at it and an AC line got cut or something (the civic was in an accident a month before) so guessing one of the fans got it. To think I considered dishing out like $400+ vs $30 for the new line and free-on. I have not been to an independent mechanic since, I just make sure I get my friend to work on my car.
Dealership turnovers are quite sad though. I think in the 4yrs I haven't worked there, they've changed staff about 8 or 9 times except for maybe like 6 people I know. Glad I got out of that industry.
#33
I'm sure you could solve it pretty easy. They really should have a senior mechanic look at it.
Years ago this same guy looked at my old Civic. It wasn't blowing cold air anymore. I, for some reason at the time while working for the dealer, took it to an independent mechanic who told me the AC compressor was dead. I had my friend look at it and an AC line got cut or something (the civic was in an accident a month before) so guessing one of the fans got it. To think I considered dishing out like $400+ vs $30 for the new line and free-on. I have not been to an independent mechanic since, I just make sure I get my friend to work on my car.
Dealership turnovers are quite sad though. I think in the 4yrs I haven't worked there, they've changed staff about 8 or 9 times except for maybe like 6 people I know. Glad I got out of that industry.
Years ago this same guy looked at my old Civic. It wasn't blowing cold air anymore. I, for some reason at the time while working for the dealer, took it to an independent mechanic who told me the AC compressor was dead. I had my friend look at it and an AC line got cut or something (the civic was in an accident a month before) so guessing one of the fans got it. To think I considered dishing out like $400+ vs $30 for the new line and free-on. I have not been to an independent mechanic since, I just make sure I get my friend to work on my car.
Dealership turnovers are quite sad though. I think in the 4yrs I haven't worked there, they've changed staff about 8 or 9 times except for maybe like 6 people I know. Glad I got out of that industry.
I fixed an AC system before in a similar way, everything was in working order but a hole in the system emptied the refrigerant. A can of colored leak test, JB weld and a refill of R134a refrigerant later and everything was fine until I scrapped the car. Hurray for ghetto fixing.
#34
There's some good dealerships and bad dealerships, just like good and bad independent places. It's a shame it's hit and miss and many people still trust the dealership with their cars and even more so while it's still under some sort of warranty. Being told "dust" makes your belt chirp like a bird in the morning is really laughing at you.
I fixed an AC system before in a similar way, everything was in working order but a hole in the system emptied the refrigerant. A can of colored leak test, JB weld and a refill of R134a refrigerant later and everything was fine until I scrapped the car. Hurray for ghetto fixing.
I fixed an AC system before in a similar way, everything was in working order but a hole in the system emptied the refrigerant. A can of colored leak test, JB weld and a refill of R134a refrigerant later and everything was fine until I scrapped the car. Hurray for ghetto fixing.
There really are some naive people out there and it's a shame they get taken the most advantage of. That's the car repair world though, upsell and take advantage of the naive.
Hah nice, yeah done a few temporary ghetto fixes on friends' cars, but nothing really major. As long as it holds up.
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polobunny (06-05-2015)
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