The crankshaft sensor and its mount
plus relutor ring
Having many years as a heavy duty mechanic i seen something while installing new timing components.
The gap from sensor to ring was just to big
Initial measurement put it at .200
To big i thought
acura info shows .016 to .050
sensor mount is a fixed mount no adjustment can be made
Im sure this was the code p0336 im seeing
in order to close gap between sensor abd ring teeth
Remove mount (one bolt)
Remove sensor from mount
Get a fine tooth file and evenly file surface of sensor mount side of mount bracket
reinstalling to check gap
Do not slot mount holes to decrease gap
I achieved a .012
Manual rotate engine 360 deg
Check each tooth for clearance
You will see how fast it starts and how responsive it becomes
My acura tl threw code after i replaced wtr pump and timing components
the sensor tested good
the crankshaft timing gear has reluter ring as one piece
Found on ebay used
Acura discontinued crankshaft gear
99 has 12 squre looking teeth
Ive done three of these 3.2 timing fixes
a 98 and a 2000 along with a 99
Each car had p0336
Each owner said car took 2 to 3 cycles to start and theur cars still started with code but trying to drive it failed .
Most people look tochange sensor
immediately.
Listen to this
I had three sensors
On table
One from car
One from autozone
One from standard auto parts
Testing ...they all passed ohm check
The magnet check which no one does
Failed the autozone sensor
Autozone sensor 99.00
Sap sensor 32.00 Ebay
Original sensor acura ?
The root cause was gap
caused by i dont know
I believe the acura sensor magnet was stro g enough to produce the a/c signal
but got weak due to hot coolant running down engine
Magnets hate heat
This repair can really piss u off as its a tight work area
if doing a timing belt replacement
Put a brite light near crankshaft and really
check that gap
My car after completing starts well before one crank cycle
And this is the best part
Its more responsive than it was new

 

Good info 👍

You’re dead on—P0336 on these TLs is often air gap, not the sensor. Fixed mount doesn’t mean correct gap. Filing the mount face (not slotting holes) to bring the gap into spec works, and checking every tooth by hand rotation is key.

Aftermarket sensors can ohm good but still fail due to weak magnets. Root cause is excessive gap. Check it during timing jobs.

 

Any time you come across a 'discontinued' component on any U.S. Acura / Honda online vendor, check the part number on amayama and it may be available in Japan?