usdmJON

Looking to get my fenders rolled. Ordered some 25mm spacers to play with but I know I'll need to roll the rears to make them fit.

About a month ago a page popped up on my facebook feed for a local guy that does fender rolling. Checked his page out and he has a good amount of business he's seen. He has a lot of cars posted that he has done their fenders for. He makes everyone sign a waver due to issues that can arise while rolling fenders and even has pictures posted of what can happen... only issue really being paint chipping.

I knew about this but I was surprised that he went out of his way to show me pictures of what can happen and what has happened under his watch. Nothing to bad. We're just talking paint chipping in areas you cant even see.

Price wise though he charges a decent amount. 100 for all 4 or 75 for 2. As well he charges 20$ ontop to drive out to you so really he's charging:

$95 - 2 fenders
$120 - 4 fenders

He uses the correct tools and has recently gone from offering fender rolling to now fender rolling plus rotor replacement.

How does that pricing sound to all of you?

https://www.facebook.com/SocalFenderWerx













He does advertise that he applies heat to help with the paint bending. But he isnt afraid to show what has and can happen which makes me feel he can be trusted.

ceb

That's about right. The BMW crowd in MD/VA paid about $150 to get it done right.


Paint issues are more common than not though and often don't show up right away. Remember too that you've kissed your rust warranty goodbye on those panels.

Nexx

good lord its just $120, getter done baller!

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

$100 is going rate. Pretty much 25 each. Up here in northern CAli shops were charging 15 a piece. I want to say around 2008-2009..

My friend is down in Santa Barbara know when he lives up here he charged us a 12 pack.

ceb

Right. If it is somebody who does this regularly you've got a better chance of success - better than the guy who practices on your car while chugging that 12 pack.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

Homie plug....

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Or you can be dumb and pay someone $100...then still have to buy the roller to finish the job for yourself properly.

I wouldn't touch a car for less than 50 per corner. Actually...I wouldn't touch a car period...I hate when friend's ask me to do it because it stresses me out...and even if you heat it up properly you can sometimes not account for even heating...and possible bondo somewhere hidden...and then over rolling slightly and putting light flares into it...

It can be done, and it should be done by a pro...and by pro I mean someone who's fkd up a ton of other cars along the way and now has the experience to try and avoid fking yours up.

There's a dance where you have to balance going hard vs not hard enough...clean the dirt/dust above the lip so you don't roll against rocks...I guess in a way you can also get up there and clean out the factory reinforcement caulking I've sometimes run into...then you have the contact weld points that are stronger and won't roll easily...

It's not an easy task...anyone that tells you it is...do not let them touch your car.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Curious though...what's prompting you to go so aggressive, last I remember, your car was sitting nicely...an inch in all directions seems like a pretty big spacer. Especially since you're so into doing things right and quality...have you considered selling your wheels and getting the offset you now desire? Or is this a stepping stone?

usdmJON

Both good to know.

Get a fucking life homie.

thank you

Id assume the entire 12 pack isnt going to be gone by the time the fenders are done. Ive had friends who charge a 12pack and lunch. They dont typically get hammered while working on your car but instead have a beer maybe two while you also drink from the same 12 pack and shoot the shit while he takes his time often showing you what it is hes doing.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

usdmJON

To answer the post before this. This guy seems about as "pro" as I am going to find. He advertises that he has worked on the fenders of over 180 cars. No shop around me is going to roll fenders for you so its pretty much pay someone like this or rent the tool myself.

As for whats prompting me. I dont even think the 1in is all that aggressive. My works are only 8in wide. Really right now I am just trying to eliminate a bit more if the wheel/fender gap. From any angle not the one I typically take a picture of my car in it'll really showcase how sunk the rear wheels are at only 8in wide.

I had 20mm spacers on for a while. When I got the new wheels I found out I cant run anything under 25mm with them as not all the oem studs fit into the wheel back due to the dual bolt pattern. With 20mm spacers each corner has 1 stud that hits the back of the wheel.

My options there were

a. new wheels no dual patterned
b. grinding down studs
c. grinding down back of wheel
d. 25mm spacers to clear oem studs

I opted for the cheaper option... being still like $100 for spacers so not entirely cheap. But in the future I plan on going around 9.5 so these spacers are only like running 9in wheels. Id have to run something like 35mm spacers to get an idea of what my wheels will fit like at 18x9.5

As for selling the wheels. Completely out of the question for me. Couple reasons. First offset isnt a big deal to me at all. Right now Im just looking to make the rear look less sunk. I dont plan on changing my offset... as in I plan on leaving my inner barrels where they are. Obviously offset will change when I replace the outers but I have no specific number I need for offset. I'll make it fit. It should be around 10-15 I believe after the rebuild (dont hold me to those numbers I have not done the math).

As well, I believe we talked about selling my wheels before. I am not interested in the head ache of posting my wheels for sale and dealing with the low ballers/no shows then having to again source a set I like. I am overly thrilled still with the price I paid for what is one of my all time favorite wheels (were talking 1 out of 4 all time sets) so I dont see these going any time soon. Chances are I'll buy a second set before selling these.

While were on the subject and since Im not worried about thread jacking.... the only wheels Id consider selling my Work VSMX for:


Weds Borphes


SSR Professor (2 piece)


Work Meister (3 piece)

Jorgee

My guy charged me $50 for my rears (homie plug). Then got arrested the next day for possession of marijuana and doing graffiti. lol He had done over 100 cars before he touched mine. But normally the rate is about 30 per fender. He charged 60 for 2 and 100 for all 4 then gas money if he had to go outside the city.

ceb

Of course, but I was making a point - the guy who does this stuff for a living (or at least regularly) will probably be better than the guy that does it occasionally for tips.

If it is a buddy who normally charges money but is doing it on the side for you then it is a different matter but there are lots of clowns out there who don't know what they are doing that roll fenders with a baseball bat for lunch and a couple of beers - you find them at most meets.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Work Meister's...

I too don't see a problem with running spacers if you have to...but I did find it ironic that you are very concerned with the quality of a wheel, but not it fitting the way you want.

Anyway...yeah, that's sound logic. Pay the guy, man...even if you rent one, and you love your car...you'll literally be having a guy do them with zero experience. LOL...I did okay with my car, but there are things I did wrong...don't go that route, man.

And about the 25MM...I know your struggle...the Advan have NO space behind either...25MM it is...although on the S, pretty sure I could do 20 and not 25 and bury the stud...but that's WAYYYY too aggressive on it...that would be a 9" wide with effective +25...I ain't even bout that life.

usdmJON

A wheel fitting the way I want is something that can be altered. The quality of the wheel cant be altered the same way. So frankly I dont see how that is in any way ironic.

I bought quality wheels for a low price because of the lame 18x8 specs. Had they been 9.5 they would have easily gone for $800+ on top of what I paid. No joke that is what VR is selling my wheels for in 18x9.5/10.5. $1899 I believe.

In the end I'll still be paying that $800 but I'll get the exact specs I want. Im thinking 18x9.5 square and if I need I can run spacers in the rear to hit a 10.5 which Ive already seen done on the ILX.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Didn't mean to offend you...
Some people do claim that running spacers, especially version 2, is not safe (I personally don't feel that way).
The reason you like quality wheels was they are stronger, bend vs crack, are repairable...and are safe.

So to me, there is a correlation that's ironic.

Sounds like you got the plans set up...gonna be really nice.

usdmJON

No offense taken. I just dont see the irony.

Version 2 implies ichiba spacers. Or at least thats what came up when i googled it. Garagelinr only sells the spacers woth pressed studs so thats the only version they sell for my car and the only style spacer id ever consider.

While entirely safe the only downside is slight more stress on your bearings. But no more stress will be caused to a 9in wheel on 25mm spacers than a 10in wheel on the same car with relevant specs.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I paid $30 (i got special discount ) to get my rears rolled.
Heard his asking price is $80, I wouldn't pay more than $80.

Version 2 is Ichiba's way of saying "bolt on spacers" (built in studs).

Timmy18

Technically, you only have two fenders, so $95 is all you should have to pay.
The rears are quarter panels.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Even after explaining it you don't see the irony?

Version 2 implies a brand?

Version 1 spacers are where you have new studs pressed in (or you DIY...I made a thread on it) and then you slide on 3, 5, 10 MM spacers at your leisure. You need to keep in mind not going too long otherwise you'll need to use open ended lug nuts and your oem might not fit if you ever put your stock wheels back on with no spacers.

Version 2, like Thanh mentioned, are the bolt on spacers. Anything over 15MM will normally be version 2. Someone (maybe even akata) made a 10MM version 2 and had issues with them failing. Not enough meat to hold the car.

usdmJON

I mean. I understand what you are saying and I just dont agree that it is in any way ironic.

What would be ironic would be if I bought a set of reps after claiming reps are poor quality.

I have not once commented anything negative about using wheels spacers so I dont see what is ironic about me purchasing some.

The only sense I can make of it is if you believe spacers are unsafe therefor ironic that I would install them since I care about "safe" wheels. This however is not ironic to me because the spacers are indeed perfectly safe. Therefor not ironic. Had they been unsafe maybe ironic. But they aren't. So its not.

Yes V2 implies a brand. Ichiba.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...sion+2+spacers

H&R refers to that exact design as Trak+.

Trak+, like V2, is simply what that company calls their spacers with pressed studs.

As for V1 with extended studs or V2; it's really not much of a difference at all when used correctly. Sure V1 with extended studs is the best option but Ive had plenty of headache replacing studs on civics/integras that I dont plan on touching mine. If replacing studs was an option I would have gone with studs 5mm smaller so I could have just put my 20mm spacers back on instead of selling them and getting 25mm spacers just to clear that 5mm.

In the end if you tighten the spacers to spec and properly clean/grind any rust off the hub then the spacers wont cause any issue what so ever. It'll be like you added a larger back pad or some length to the hub assembly. It should not cause any issues.

Hell I see people run 30mm+ spacers on wheels running lower offset than mine. Some people make a larger deal out of it than need be. Lets also keep in mind both Akata and Ichiba use aluminum spacers while Garageline, what I purchase, uses Grade 10.9 steel. Big difference. No wonder Akata/Ichiba spacers fail.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

No, it doesn't.

Version 1 is a type of spacer.
Version 2 is another, that involves being a bolt on.

Stop with the semantics...you can't use your understanding of something to be the end all/be all of the conglomerate of what something is.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

and no, most of them use the 10.9 grade hardware...and the spacer itself is aluminum.

Give me a break...you're justifying your personal understanding of something to justify your use of it...and your interpretation of what's safe or not.

It's ironic, trust me...but like I said...I'm on board, I don't think spacers suck...I've used them myself. You're just not going to convince me that your understanding or their use should be acceptance of what they are and what they are called.

usdmJON

Click the google search link I provided and tell me what you see from searching Version 2 spacer. Eibach doesnt call them V2. H&R doesnt call them V2. Garageline doesnt call them V2. Ichiba does.

Your argument to me sounds like since the track inspired Integra is a Type R so the performance oriented BMW is a Type R too.

Ichiba just calls them V1 and V2. H&R calls them spacers or Trak+ spacers. Garageline has only the bolt on option so there is only the one version.

usdmJON

I searched around a bit and found Ichiba studs broken in a way steel just doesnt really break. Go check out the link I provided. Its like 4 links down. Ichiba did not advertise anywhere what grade is used and it says flat out its simply made of aluminum and did not mention steel nor grades where as Garageline advertises exactly what is being used before purchase.

So I mean. If you want to take that and assume Ichiba is giving you steel studs then by all means.

I searched "Ichiba studs steel" and literally nothing came up regarding the spacers except a GT-R forum

Ichiba v2 spacers - Wheels - GT-R Life

He agrees with you about replacing the studs, as do I. He goes on to explain he does not like the Ichiba spacers do to the aluminum where as he suggest an aluminum spacers with steel studs. Meaning he too believes the Ichiba spacers are aluminum and I mean ALL aluminum because he has stated already the aluminum spacer is fine but the studs needs to be steel.

If you can show me Ichiba spacers are steel then for sure, maybe the "v2" is unsafe. Maybe those people are correct. But Ive ran 20mm spacers for over a year with no issues so I feel confident 25mm wont be any more of an issue.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I'm reading his post differently than you are.

He's not just talking about Ichiba V2 spacers.
He's referring to any bolt on spacer.

Most spacer material is aluminum. Even garageline's (their website says they use "billet aluminum").
He doesn't trust the aluminum block to hold everything together. Doesn't matter what type of built in studs the spacers have - it can be made of steel, gold, diamond, whatever you want. What's holding it together is what he's worried about, and that is aluminum.

Nowhere do I read he say the studs need to be steel.
He says the studs should be pressed into steel material, such as the OEM hub (not the case for garageline - like I said they use aluminum also).
He's basically saying use extended lugs instead of bolt on spacers.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

plus, you know, vodka...

usdmJON

Aaaah. This makes sense.

It doesnt make me buying spacers ironic. But that does makes sense.

Rock, the way it sounds to me is you find it ironic i bought spacers because i "care about safety." i simply dont find anything ironic about buying spacers.

If i bought no name junk spacers then maybe.

I just dont find it ironic unless you think spacers arent safe and you think all i care about is safety. I just dislike reps homie. No fake shit here is all.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I'll tell you, I totally agree and do not have a problem with bolt on spacers.
ONLY ones I wouldn't use again were my akatas...I put them on the rear of the S2000 and within a month they were bent...like, you couldn't stack one on the other...and one of them had developed a crack. I emailed them and all they could say was oh well there's no way to know if you used as intended. So fuck them.

usdmJON

BENT? Thats scary. How the hell does that happen?

Well, seeing as how it was my bday on the 14th I came in to a bit of money I may as well spend on something like this. So chances are i'll just be having the front tabs rolled too for when I finally rebuild these wheels. Or more like relip since I dont think I will be going up to 19s.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

19's look pretty, but for a guy that's into function, stay 18 IMO. I've had both and 18's are plenty for your size body.

Yeah, man...WTF...BENT...like I'd try and stack them and the pressed studs wouldn't fit the holes on the other spacer.

PS...guess who is affiliated with akata?!?
Pretty sure the Vossen guys...

usdmJON

I have a VIP table that blocks my passenger air bag. A front splitter bolted to the damn bumper. And coils maxed out at all 4 corners.

Function isn't something Im all that concerned about. All be it, I dont plan on running some crazy nasty camber with a hellaflush fitment. But to claim Im about function wouldnt be very accurate.

19s would just fill the wheel well a lot better and help with the whole VIP look. Also wouldnt have to go as low to get a nice lip/fender fitment.

But I really dont want to buy brand new full barrels so fuck it.

I'll save the 19s for my second set. Maybe some 19in stepped Meisters.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I actually found I had to go lower to hide the wheel gap with my 19's since less rubber.
Either of them look great on the car. Some car body's demand a bigger wheel to look right...like the 4G...needs 19 or 20 to look good. I think the 3G and ILX (similar body size) look great with 18 or 19.

Gotta keep in mind cost of tires too...
but that's the practical side talking