zeroday

http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2....prod_id=736750#

Rock2534

they look pretty cool, but could get expensive if you need several boxes.

fdl

moving to home and garden

zeroday

yeah good point...they dont give you enough in a box to cover even a one car garage. i'm guessing id need at least 170 sq ft which is like 4 boxes

screw that...oh well

zeroday

oh yeah forgot

chef chris

Pass. Just spend $50 and seal it real well.

Or, see if soopa still has the left over black/white asbestos tile he tore out of his kitchen.

04acura tl

Just bought garage floor paint from Menards. They sell it in boxes that will cover a one car garage. I am sure home depot sells it also. Costs less than the tiles.

zeroday

my garage is old...lots of grease and shit on the floor. i'm concerned if i go the paint route it may peel.

knight rider

iTrader: (1)

you don't paint it, you put down a two part epoxy. To prevent it from peeling you need to etch the hell out of the floor (chemicals and powerwash). I just did mine and it looks great. Oh, also wait a week before you drive a vehicle onto it ( full cure time). May be overkill but better safe then sorry.

chef chris

Agreed. Rustoleum makes a cheap epoxy kit, I believe it includes the muratic acid to etch the surface.

I also think DRYLOC makes a product(that's what I'd use). The Dryloc shit is amazing, so I'd assume their floor primer is outstanding as well.

zeroday

thanks guys. i have a power washer so thats a start

paper1122

They might be more expensive than epoxy, but dang they are cool. Eventually when I get a house I want a garage with a black and white checkered floor.

knight rider

iTrader: (1)

They look cool but when the dust, dirt and rainwater from your tires settles between the holes it doesn't look so good. Now if you could get some durable b&w tiles like on that show "Trucks" then you're talkin'. That stuff is mucho expensive though.

Epoxy floors are very maintainable. Mop and go.

Scrib

Point of clarification... The granuals that comes with the kits are citric-based and is not muratic acid.

http://www.rustoleum.com/EPOXYShield...TipType=G#HTPS


When not to use EPOXYShield
To ensure best performance, DO NOT PAINT IF THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS EXIST:

* Sealed concrete - Determine if there is a concrete sealer present by dripping a small amount of water onto the surface. If the water beads, a sealer is present and paint may not adhere properly.
* Poorly-bonded previous paint - If the floor is previously painted, remove any loose paint by sanding and scraping. Test the adhesion of the remaining paint on the surface by doing the following:
1. With a single-edged razor blade, cut an X through the coating and down to the concrete.
2. Apply a 4" piece of duct tape over the X and press firmly.
3. Completely remove the tape with one quick pull.
4. If more than 25% of the taped area is removed with the tape, the original coating is not adhering well, and the floor should not be coated with EPOXYShield unless all previous paint is removed.
* Moisture in the concrete - Apply a 2' x 2' sheet of plastic (such as a heavy-duty garbage bag or 1 gallon plastic storage bag) to an area of the garage floor. Tape down the edges with duct tape and allow to set for 24 hours. If water droplets appear on the inside of the plastic or if concrete appears wet (darker in color), moisture is trapped in the concrete and the floor should not be painted.
* Loose or poorly cured concrete or concrete dust - If the concrete is loose, chipping (spalled), or has concrete dust present, the coating will not perform properly unless all loose material and dust is removed and damaged areas repaired.

Apply when air (ambient) temperature is 60-90ºF and relative humidity is below 80%. Concrete floors take a long time to warm up; make sure the previous day has also been at least 60ºF prior to painting. Minimum floor temperature for painting is 55ºF. Painting in mid-afternoon ensures the best cure.


Prepare the surface
Preparation Instructions
Remove any oil or grease spots on your floor. Use a scrub brush and a cleaner/degreaser (such as Simple Green®) or use a solvent such as mineral spirits. Scrub the spot thoroughly and wipe up excess cleaner with rags or paper towels to keep contaminants from spreading. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water. Repeat as necessary to completely clean.

Mix all concentrated cleaner with 2 gallons of water. For best results, use a plastic watering can to evenly distribute solution. Mix until dissolved. (The cleaning solution contains a mild citric acid.)

Pre-wet the floor using a hose. Remove pooled water with a squeegee or broom to avoid leaving puddles. Spread the cleaner mixture over a 10' x 10' section of the floor. Scrub vigorously with a stiff bristle brush to loosen dust and dirt. While working, keep the entire section wet until the entire section has been cleaned and rinsed.

Rinse each section thoroughly before starting the next section. For best results, use a foam squeegee to remove the rinse water from the surface and to move dirt and contaminants out of the garage. Repeat twice before continuing to the next section. Once all sections are completed, rinse and squeegee the entire garage floor to remove any cleaner that has been tracked on previously cleaned areas. A wet/dry vacuum can also be used to eliminate excess water, dirt and contaminants. Do not leave pooled water on the floor. The cleaner will not discolor driveways or harm grass or plants if rinsed thoroughly.

Allow the floor to dry completely. Wipe your fingers over the clean, dry floor. If you see any dust or powder on your fingers, repeat the rinsing and scrubbing until the floor is clean. If your fingers remain clean, continue to the next step.