Rainbird Irrigation Controler
02-14-2010, 09:01 PM
#1
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Rainbird Irrigation Controler
How long do these things last?
Mine (12 years old max?) seems to be turning on the sprinklers whenever the heck it wants, not when it is programmed to. The clock is set correctly, too.
I have three zones, and each gets 10 minutes at 7am and 7pm. Except they all just came on again at 8pm...
Is my yard possessed?
Mine (12 years old max?) seems to be turning on the sprinklers whenever the heck it wants, not when it is programmed to. The clock is set correctly, too.
I have three zones, and each gets 10 minutes at 7am and 7pm. Except they all just came on again at 8pm...
Is my yard possessed?
02-14-2010, 09:33 PM
#2
Team Owner
You should be able to get a new control unit at Lowe's or Home Depot for not a lot of coin if yours is on the fritz.
02-14-2010, 09:56 PM
#3
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Yeah, I just don't know if it really is or not...
I may explore the old priest/young priest route first...
I may explore the old priest/young priest route first...
02-14-2010, 09:59 PM
#4
Team Owner
This is the one I have.
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Pr...uctCode=PC-300
02-14-2010, 11:32 PM
#5
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Wow, mine is pretty old school compared to those.
02-15-2010, 02:55 AM
#6
How long do these things last?
Mine (12 years old max?) seems to be turning on the sprinklers whenever the heck it wants, not when it is programmed to. The clock is set correctly, too.
I have three zones, and each gets 10 minutes at 7am and 7pm. Except they all just came on again at 8pm...
Is my yard possessed?
Mine (12 years old max?) seems to be turning on the sprinklers whenever the heck it wants, not when it is programmed to. The clock is set correctly, too.
I have three zones, and each gets 10 minutes at 7am and 7pm. Except they all just came on again at 8pm...
Is my yard possessed?
02-15-2010, 07:30 AM
#7
Team Owner
The wiring from the control head out to the sprinkler valves is all old school though. If all of the stations are coming on at the same time, something's almost definitely not right in the controller.
The only other way I know of to do that is to mess up the start times for the stations or rewire it all wrong.
The only other way I know of to do that is to mess up the start times for the stations or rewire it all wrong.
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02-15-2010, 11:05 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Well, the three stations (lawn-left, lawn-right, and whole yard drip) are all set up correctly, but the damn thing still comes on at times not programmed.
I currently have a two inch deep pond where my lawn should be...
I just shut the whole thing off so it doesn't run the water bill to the moon, and will cycle the stations manually when I get home from work until I figure this out.
I wonder if a line burst somewhere? Still doesn't explain the 8:15pm run of the lawn sprinklers, but maybe explains the lawn/pool...
I currently have a two inch deep pond where my lawn should be...
I just shut the whole thing off so it doesn't run the water bill to the moon, and will cycle the stations manually when I get home from work until I figure this out.
I wonder if a line burst somewhere? Still doesn't explain the 8:15pm run of the lawn sprinklers, but maybe explains the lawn/pool...
02-15-2010, 11:08 PM
#9
Team Owner
Only three stations? I have eight.
A new controller for you is about $40. It's easy breezy lemon squeezy to install.
A new controller for you is about $40. It's easy breezy lemon squeezy to install.
02-15-2010, 11:16 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
I wish I had set this system up, but it came pre-installed by the previous owner. I have no idea where the lines are to the heads, etc... I basically will have to tear up my entire yard if the controller does not solve the problem. Luckily there are only two servo units, one in front and one in back so I should be able to just trace the lines from the back one...
02-15-2010, 11:25 PM
#11
Team Owner
I wish I had set this system up, but it came pre-installed by the previous owner. I have no idea where the lines are to the heads, etc... I basically will have to tear up my entire yard if the controller does not solve the problem. Luckily there are only two servo units, one in front and one in back so I should be able to just trace the lines from the back one...
The irrigation heads in your lawn are activated by the water pressure -- if the control valve is opened by the controller, you get water. If not, not. You should have to tear up your lawn at all.
I can't think of a scenario that would cause the valves to activate all by their lonesomes. I've had valves stick open once activated, but never an activation without the control signal.
02-16-2010, 12:42 AM
#12
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Good to know. I will look at the local options for controller replacement.
I don't care what EVERYbody else says about you, you are alright...
I don't care what EVERYbody else says about you, you are alright...
02-16-2010, 10:35 AM
#14
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Well, after setting the unit to "off" last night, it ran again this morning, as I have a freshly flooded pete bog in my back yard...
Can't wait to see my water bill this month...
Can't wait to see my water bill this month...
02-16-2010, 09:37 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Ran the stations in Manual Mode tonight and everything looks fine BUT.... As Mr. Humpy stated, the control knob is very loose and even when I had turned it to OFF, it was not showing OFF in the LCD. Now that I wiggled it, I think it is probably safe (for now).
As Mike pointed out, a new controller is probably in order. How about the pumps? Should I be concerned if they leak water into the little box they are dug into when the system is running? Boxes get 3-6 inches of water in them while running...
As Mike pointed out, a new controller is probably in order. How about the pumps? Should I be concerned if they leak water into the little box they are dug into when the system is running? Boxes get 3-6 inches of water in them while running...
02-16-2010, 09:42 PM
#16
Team Owner
Ran the stations in Manual Mode tonight and everything looks fine BUT.... As Mr. Humpy stated, the control knob is very loose and even when I had turned it to OFF, it was not showing OFF in the LCD. Now that I wiggled it, I think it is probably safe (for now).
As Mike pointed out, a new controller is probably in order. How about the pumps? Should I be concerned if they leak water into the little box they are dug into when the system is running? Boxes get 3-6 inches of water in them while running...
As Mike pointed out, a new controller is probably in order. How about the pumps? Should I be concerned if they leak water into the little box they are dug into when the system is running? Boxes get 3-6 inches of water in them while running...
You'll find entire replacement valves at the home improvement store, but that's a dirty repair to make. I fixed a couple of my valves last year by just buying the parts I needed (diaphragm and solenoid) instead of an entire new valve. I used this place because the local stores didn't carry the Toro parts:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/
02-17-2010, 06:42 PM
#17
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Cool, thanks for the link, Mike.
I will start with the controller and work my way down the line from there.
I will start with the controller and work my way down the line from there.
02-17-2010, 07:58 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
True genius at work here... True genius. 
02-17-2010, 11:00 PM
#20
Team Owner
02-18-2010, 01:35 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
04-05-2010, 01:28 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
Finally just ordered a new controller from the link place Mike provided. 
I have been manually running the stations lately, but even that has just failed, so it's time for a new controller...
woot.
I have been manually running the stations lately, but even that has just failed, so it's time for a new controller...
woot.
04-17-2010, 06:39 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
Well, I just installed and programmed the new controller. Woot.
Unfortunately, I am still having trouble with the valve for the low flow drip. There is a lever on it that moves from open to closed (90 degrees). If I move it to closed, even when the program runs, no water comes from the drip flags. If I move it to open, water comes from the drip flags whether the program is running or not (flows continuously). Is it a bad valve? I will post a pic in a second...
Unfortunately, I am still having trouble with the valve for the low flow drip. There is a lever on it that moves from open to closed (90 degrees). If I move it to closed, even when the program runs, no water comes from the drip flags. If I move it to open, water comes from the drip flags whether the program is running or not (flows continuously). Is it a bad valve? I will post a pic in a second...
04-17-2010, 06:44 PM
#25
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Thread Starter
04-17-2010, 06:45 PM
#26
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Thread Starter
Newly installed controller
04-17-2010, 06:49 PM
#27
Evil Mazda Driver
For those who have RainBird systems, keep in mind that a power failure will cause the system to default to automatic once power is restored. I found this out the hard way during the garage restoration last summer....with the RL outside, the sprinklers came on at 7 AM, just in time for the rising sun to bake the water onto the paint. I slept soundly through all of this.
04-17-2010, 08:42 PM
#28
Team Owner
Well, I just installed and programmed the new controller. Woot.
Unfortunately, I am still having trouble with the valve for the low flow drip. There is a lever on it that moves from open to closed (90 degrees). If I move it to closed, even when the program runs, no water comes from the drip flags. If I move it to open, water comes from the drip flags whether the program is running or not (flows continuously). Is it a bad valve? I will post a pic in a second...
Unfortunately, I am still having trouble with the valve for the low flow drip. There is a lever on it that moves from open to closed (90 degrees). If I move it to closed, even when the program runs, no water comes from the drip flags. If I move it to open, water comes from the drip flags whether the program is running or not (flows continuously). Is it a bad valve? I will post a pic in a second...
Common Problems
Before assuming that there is a valve problem, check the obvious. Is the water turned on, is the controller plugged in and programmed correctly, are there isolation valves that might be turned off? Verify valve operation by using the manual bleed. This might indicate a controller or wiring problem if the valve works properly when using the manual bleed.
Before assuming that there is a valve problem, check the obvious. Is the water turned on, is the controller plugged in and programmed correctly, are there isolation valves that might be turned off? Verify valve operation by using the manual bleed. This might indicate a controller or wiring problem if the valve works properly when using the manual bleed.
Valve will not close - There are two things that will cause this. The first cause is a physical obstruction (rocks or other debris) preventing the diaphragm from seating. When removing a physical obstruction, be sure to thoroughly inspect the diaphragm assembly and valve seat area for damage. The second reason is insufficient force being developed above the diaphragm. Insufficient force above the diaphragm can be caused by several things.
1. The plunger is missing or stuck in the up position. Remove and inspect the
solenoid.
2. Diaphragm filter plugged. This will prevent water from entering the upper
chamber.
3. Flow control turned up too high. The diaphragm can stick in the up position under low flow/low pressure conditions.
4. Constant voltage from the controller. The solenoid will usually be warm to the touch and a slight vibration can be felt if this is happening.
5. Leak between the bonnet and body. Water will be visibly leaking where the body and bonnet are connected
6. An open manual bleed. An open external manual bleed will be very obvious. An internal manual bleed system can be unknowingly activated if the valve is
unfamiliar to the customer.
7. A large hole in the diaphragm. (Forward flow valve only). Sufficient force will not build up in the upper chamber. Remove the diaphragm assembly and inspect it very carefully, replace it if there are any bubbles or other signs of wear.
8. The valve is installed backwards. The valve is now an expensive coupling. The arrows on the valve body indicate the direction of water flow through the valve.
1. The plunger is missing or stuck in the up position. Remove and inspect the
solenoid.
2. Diaphragm filter plugged. This will prevent water from entering the upper
chamber.
3. Flow control turned up too high. The diaphragm can stick in the up position under low flow/low pressure conditions.
4. Constant voltage from the controller. The solenoid will usually be warm to the touch and a slight vibration can be felt if this is happening.
5. Leak between the bonnet and body. Water will be visibly leaking where the body and bonnet are connected
6. An open manual bleed. An open external manual bleed will be very obvious. An internal manual bleed system can be unknowingly activated if the valve is
unfamiliar to the customer.
7. A large hole in the diaphragm. (Forward flow valve only). Sufficient force will not build up in the upper chamber. Remove the diaphragm assembly and inspect it very carefully, replace it if there are any bubbles or other signs of wear.
8. The valve is installed backwards. The valve is now an expensive coupling. The arrows on the valve body indicate the direction of water flow through the valve.
I take it all the other stations are now working correctly?
Last edited by svtmike; 04-17-2010 at 08:47 PM.
04-17-2010, 10:04 PM
#29
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Wow, thanks for the info!
For some reason, the drip zone (one drip, two grass) seems to be working all of sudden, with the swing arm in the OFF position when the controller signals it to run. Is this the correct position?
For some reason, the drip zone (one drip, two grass) seems to be working all of sudden, with the swing arm in the OFF position when the controller signals it to run. Is this the correct position?
04-18-2010, 06:54 AM
#30
Team Owner
Probably. The swing arm seems like the manual override.
04-18-2010, 09:25 AM
#31
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
OK, thanks!
04-18-2010, 09:37 AM
#32
Oliver!!!
Glad to hear you got the drip zone working. Those valves can be a royal pita. There's just no rhyme or reason to how they work sometimes. Mike's right, the lever is probably a manual override. Sometimes you have to run the valves through a few cycles to sync them to the controller, especially after you run the manual override. The solenoid is probably sticking, it may give you trouble in the future.
That controller is amazing. I have the same one, the HOA uses that same controller for the common area irrigation. Brilliant. Oh, and if you put a module in the last position you can use it for low voltage lighting. No need for a separate timer! And no worries about it losing programming. That one has a built in Lion battery. The power was off at my house for about 3 months before the bank turned it on and the original programming was still in place.
That controller is amazing. I have the same one, the HOA uses that same controller for the common area irrigation. Brilliant. Oh, and if you put a module in the last position you can use it for low voltage lighting. No need for a separate timer! And no worries about it losing programming. That one has a built in Lion battery. The power was off at my house for about 3 months before the bank turned it on and the original programming was still in place.
04-18-2010, 02:19 PM
#33
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Great info Litesout, thanks!
I had no idea about the low voltage, I will have to check it out.
I am planning on keeping an eye on the drip valve and if it keeps having problems, I will just start replacing parts inside the ground-box like Mike described.
I had no idea about the low voltage, I will have to check it out.
I am planning on keeping an eye on the drip valve and if it keeps having problems, I will just start replacing parts inside the ground-box like Mike described.
07-06-2010, 10:26 PM
#34
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Well, after 2 months of good use, the main line that runs UNDER THE DRIVEWAY has ruptured and spews water out while the drip zone runs... It feeds through a PVC pipe under the driveway, but I am not looking forward to digging up the entire front yard to splice new 1" line in. This is going to suck.
Truthfully, I may just find someone to rip out the entire hose system and replace it all at once. If I kill myself repairing this only to have another issue in a month I will be pissed.
Truthfully, I may just find someone to rip out the entire hose system and replace it all at once. If I kill myself repairing this only to have another issue in a month I will be pissed.
07-06-2010, 10:35 PM
#36
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
I don't know if I should laugh or give you an angry dog picture...
Oh, what the hell...
Oh, what the hell...
07-06-2010, 10:59 PM
#37
Team Owner
Call a company that does irrigation installs. They probably have access to tools and techniques that make a bastard of a job for you not so bad for them.
07-06-2010, 11:25 PM
#38
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Yeah, I know my limits, and this feels like a check writing job for me rather than a shovel and pick job...
07-07-2010, 10:11 PM
#39
Needs more Lemon Pledge
Thread Starter
Got a guy coming by to fix it. Quoted price was a LOT less than I expected. Let's hope he doesn't plant a bunch of spiders in the yard.
07-08-2010, 09:50 AM
#40
Team Owner
Cheaper to let the grass go brown 
One section of my lawn is really green and I noticed that my sub pit is half full of water. It looks like that section of my lawn is benefiting from the runoff from my neighbors' sprinklers.
One section of my lawn is really green and I noticed that my sub pit is half full of water. It looks like that section of my lawn is benefiting from the runoff from my neighbors' sprinklers.