I am adding a circuit for new lighting and/or outlets in the garage.

I'll be hanging flourescent shop lights and want to make the outlets switched. These will be single pole (no 3-way or 4-way) switches.

I also want to set the lighting up in zones - Entry/Workbench area; Mid-Garage; Rear Garage. Since each zone is switched, I assume I'll have to split the main power into 3 separate "parallel runs" - is that correct?

All the new wire will be between studs until I get to the ceiling where I'll put the Romex in conduit until it terminates at the switched receptacle.

Can anyone tell me if I am on the right track and/or offer suggestions to improve or simplify?





Below is a "schematic" of what I think I need to do:








This is a little more spacially organized:

 

Depending on what the outlet in zone 4 is going to be used for, you might consider putting it on a separate breaker. This would allow you to put a heavy load like a compressor on or to add more outlets in the future.

Adding extra capacity now is not very expensive and you never have enough outlets.

 

Basically thinking about a drop light and/or small tools. Good thought though.

Everything else look pretty "normal"?


I am boning up on basic household electric. Probably going to buy a book too.

TIA

 

When I wired up my workshop I kept the lighting circuit separate from the outlets for exactly the purpose that Zippee mentions. You never know when you're going to want to plug something in that is a lot heavier load than you envision.

I ran 20 amp circuits for all of my general outlets, and dedicated circuits for each of my bigger machines (band saw, jointer, planer, miter saw, and 220V for my table saw).

 

Yep... Installing two circuits is the way to go...

I also agree on pulling 12 gauge wire and installing a 20 amp breaker; especially for the receptacles.

Also, I'm not a big fan of putting all those pigtails in one junction box. Perhaps try and pull longer runs of wire and pigtailing further on down. I guess it all depends on how anal you are...

 

OK, putting misc receptacles on a separate circuit is no big deal, since I'm doing the other work anyhow. Thanks for the help on that. I'll pick up some 12 guage Romex at Lowes and a 20 amp breaker for those.

That means that junction box will only have the wiring splits for the 3 switches (I called 'em "pigtails" but am not sure that is technically correct - what I mean is splitting the main power input to run to each switch separetly).

Regardless, separating the receptacle circuit will reduce the number of connections in the junction box by 1 - so 3 instead of 4. I really can't do longer runs (to the switches) if I want the switches near the Garage/Kitchen doorway - which is also close to the Breaker Panel.


I'm just glad nobody said, "You're doing *that*!?!? Are you F'n nuts, why would you wire it *that* way? You're gonna kill somebody."

 

I have some opinions (somewhat professional ) if you would still like them.

I don't want to type it up if you don't though, so let me know

 

Definetly interested.

Was out of the country and hadn't checked back on this thread. Regardless, I've not started anything yet, just got the light fixtures, the breaker and the wire. Still need some supplies, I'd pick up this week and probably do the work next week-end.

BTW - I may not do 3 "zones". Thinking about either combining Zone 1 & 2 or eliminating Zone 1. I need more light, but I don't need it as bright as an operating room - lol.

 

Sorry man, I got tied up at work today. I'll take a look at it soon

 

Finally got to read this a little bit and have a few questions...

1. How far away is the Panel to the Junction Box, and the Junction Box to the switches?

2. Where will the switches be, in relation to each other? I'm assuming by your drawing that they will be in different areas since you are using 3 individual boxes instead of one 3-gang box?

3. Have you thought about only switching one half of each receptacle (or certain ones)? I've never been a fan of having all receptacles switched. It wouldn't be hard at all.

4. From what you've said you don't plan on running a lot of heavy resource tools, correct? I would make a suggestion on how to split up your circuits, but it's hard to suggest anything without an idea of what and where you'll be using stuff. Just make sure nothing you will be using will ever need a dedicated receptacle like svtmike said.


The guys above all make good points though. Since it's a garage you'll definitely want 20 amp circuits, and more than one circuit.

Just by looking at your drawings, there's some stuff I'm scratching my head about, but it might be because I'm just picturing the setup of your garage wrong. Do you have an actual picture of the inside of the garage? Or can you draw something like the first pic with the garage dimensions and where you want everything? It'll be easier for us to give accurate advice that way

I'm half asleep typing this though so if something I said doesn't make sense let me know haha.

 

Thanks. Here you go - hope it makes sense.

1. See Pic. They are all close together.

2. All together either 2 @ 2-gang boxes or a 3-gang box.

3. No. The reason the receptacles are switched is because they will be on the ceiling and dedicated to the lighting cords. The exception would be a circuit for "active use" receptacles which would not be swithed.

4. Correct. I've got a plug-in 18v Drill, a light/home duty circular saw and that's pretty much it. Nearly everything else is hand tools. Anything new would also be light/home duty - no big table saw/drill presses/etc for me.

Below is Pic from the front-left of the garage looking inward. Also I've modified a "drawing" that shows the Overhead lights and zones. Hopefully that helps. "Drawing" is pretty busy so I didn't add the wire runs. Scale is approximate, but pretty close; measurements in inches.

FWIW, I am considering turning the lighting over the cars long-ways, thereby eliminating 2 lights.



(Sorry for the "Drawing" size - Photobucket is retricted to 600 x 800. I included a direct link if that helps.)





http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j8.../LayoutPic.jpg


Thanks everyone for your continued assistance and advice.

 

Ah, well the picture makes everything come together


If you're doing a 3-gang switch box, I don't see any reason why you couldn't eliminate the junction box since it, the panel, and the switches are all in such close proximity.

It will work either way, but I was trained to not use junction boxes unless completely necessary.


Also, have you thought about running a 15-amp circuit for just the lighting, and another 20-amp circuit for any other receptacles you want to run? This will allow for easy expansion in the future.



But anyways, that's just a few thoughts...looks like you shouldn't have any trouble with anything

 

Yep. That is the "revised" plan based on comments here. One 15 amp lighting only circuit and one 20 amp circuit for misc receptacles (only one or two now, but expandable later if needed).

I hear you about the junction box. I just can't figure out how to get the Romex from 1 breaker to 3 independent swicthes without "splitting" the Romex in a junction box.

Can I just "tap/pig-tail" it in the 3-gang switch box?

 

Are you wondering about how to get the hot wire to all three switches? There's a couple different ways it can be done without a junction box. How many hot wires will be in that box?

 

3 switches, 3 lighting zones, 3 hot wires.

It's not the getting them in that I wonder about or even getting the Hot to all 3 switches so much. It's the getting them out to make the run to the lights that's giving me pause.

I can see taking 1 Hot/Neutral in and wiring the individual switches. It's the spliting of the "one in" to "3 parallel out" - I am not sure when (before of after the switch(es) or where (in the switch box or in a junction box).

I've looked at a number of diagrams on the web and almost all of them assume you are adding a switch or an outlet to an existing circuit. I haven't found something that shows a new circuit going to a switch box that controls multiple lights.

Sounds pretty (very?) basic, I know. I can make the electricity go where I want it, that's easy. I just want to do the wiring correctly/safely, that's where the knowledge is lacking.

 

Oh okay, I see what you're wondering about now. You're really worrying about nothing though...


Just bring your hot from the panel to the 3-gang box, then run your three wires from the same box to each lighting zone.

Inside the switch, put each black wire on whatever switch they need to be and wire nut all the neutrals. Simple as that.

I'll draw you a quick MS Paint diagram if you'd like.

 

Well, it's almost a year later and I actually FINALLY did this project. 3 Light zones in the garage. Layout is the same as above.

BUT before I put live power to the whole deal, someone tell me I'm not going to burn down the house with the wiring as I've connected it.



First diagram is a single switched receptacle for shop lights. (I know I don't need wire nuts for this, they are there because the real set up (next pic) requires them):








This diagram is the how the 3-switch gang box is wired:








So, is it good? Can I light it up without fear of catastrophe?

 

Sorry about the delay...scheduling for school is a major PITA


Anyways, everything looks fine from here. Go ahead and throw the switch...worst thing you can do is blow a breaker.

If you want me to critique your connections just take a picture...I'll warn you though I'm a perfectionist about them :devilgrin

I'm actually curious to see what your ground wires look like in that 3-gang box.

 

I did throw the switch; couldn't wait. GFCI breaker and I set it up and tested per the instructions and everything works, including the GFCI Test, just fine.

Funny you ask about the grounds - they were a PITA. First, I left the wires a bit too long (not only the grounds), so it's a bit crowded. Second, getting all grounds into 1 connection/nut was tough.

No pics for you - it's a little ugly.

At some point, I might go back into the 3-gang box and rewire it to be a bit neater/better orgainzed, but for now I am happy I can finish working on whatever after the sun sets.


Now that I think about it, could I have "daisy chained" the ground the same way I did the Incoming Hot? If so, that would be a LOT cleaner, I think.

 

Jim, I'm pretty sure Jon is an electrical whiz...

 

Come on post the pics! I need something to laugh at

But yeah, that's what I was going to suggest for the grounds. Just put them all under one of those special wing nuts with a hole in the top that are designed for grounds and run one jumper wire. Just like you did for the hot wires.

That's what I've always done.

 

What I'm not freakin good enough!?!?

 

Not the way I would have done it, but assuming all the connections are good (and I'm guessing that's a good assumption) you shouldn't burn the house down. Personally I would have gone with the junction box below the switches as mentioned in your original plans. My