Timing belt kit for 2012 Acura TL diy
#3
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My next kit I'll probably buy the OEM Honda kit as it comes with cam seals and such lacking in the Aisin kit.
#4
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There's a bunch of kits on Amazon and eBay. I'd recommend finding a kit that has a genuine Honda or Acura timing belt, Koyo pulleys and tensioner and Aisin water pump. Koyo and Aisin are the OEM manufacturers for those parts.
I went with this kit. It's not the cheapest option but it has everything that's OEM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-Honda-A...obfG:rk:7:pf:0
I went with this kit. It's not the cheapest option but it has everything that's OEM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-Honda-A...obfG:rk:7:pf:0
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horseshoez (10-10-2018)
#5
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There's a bunch of kits on Amazon and eBay. I'd recommend finding a kit that has a genuine Honda or Acura timing belt, Koyo pulleys and tensioner and Aisin water pump. Koyo and Aisin are the OEM manufacturers for those parts.
I went with this kit. It's not the cheapest option but it has everything that's OEM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-Honda-A...obfG:rk:7:pf:0
I went with this kit. It's not the cheapest option but it has everything that's OEM:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-Honda-A...obfG:rk:7:pf:0
#6
Is a warranty for the timing belt service recommended? In my area, shops will only provide warranty (usually 1-2 years) on the job if you let them provide the parts. However, if I bring the parts there is no warranty even if they are oem due to their “policies”. I know it’s just a way for them to jack up their prices and use their vendors. I’m curious if you guys think having a warranty after this major service is beneficial, especially to a 2009 TL.
#7
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Good question. I've read two stories about folks having the timing belt job done only to discover later that the shop used a bad water pump or tensioner. The one with a bad water pump was a case of an Odyssey which took a road trip shortly after the timing belt job. The coolant was leaking on the belt, which ruined the belt and left them stranded. It may have been the gasket more than the water pump. Either way, the shop had to pay for an engine replacement.
If I were to have a shop do the job, I'd for out the extra $$$ for them to source the parts. While a TB job on this engine isn't rocket science, there are still at least a dozen things that can go wrong that could lead to catastrophic failure. This job is pretty straightforward for any seasoned multi-vehicle mechanic but it's not to say they might not make a mistake.
And to anyone who does it themselves, I recommend TRIPLE checking everything. From bolt torque to lining up belt teeth.
If I were to have a shop do the job, I'd for out the extra $$$ for them to source the parts. While a TB job on this engine isn't rocket science, there are still at least a dozen things that can go wrong that could lead to catastrophic failure. This job is pretty straightforward for any seasoned multi-vehicle mechanic but it's not to say they might not make a mistake.
And to anyone who does it themselves, I recommend TRIPLE checking everything. From bolt torque to lining up belt teeth.
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#8
Good question. I've read two stories about folks having the timing belt job done only to discover later that the shop used a bad water pump or tensioner. The one with a bad water pump was a case of an Odyssey which took a road trip shortly after the timing belt job. The coolant was leaking on the belt, which ruined the belt and left them stranded. It may have been the gasket more than the water pump. Either way, the shop had to pay for an engine replacement.
If I were to have a shop do the job, I'd for out the extra $$$ for them to source the parts. While a TB job on this engine isn't rocket science, there are still at least a dozen things that can go wrong that could lead to catastrophic failure. This job is pretty straightforward for any seasoned multi-vehicle mechanic but it's not to say they might not make a mistake.
And to anyone who does it themselves, I recommend TRIPLE checking everything. From bolt torque to lining up belt teeth.
If I were to have a shop do the job, I'd for out the extra $$$ for them to source the parts. While a TB job on this engine isn't rocket science, there are still at least a dozen things that can go wrong that could lead to catastrophic failure. This job is pretty straightforward for any seasoned multi-vehicle mechanic but it's not to say they might not make a mistake.
And to anyone who does it themselves, I recommend TRIPLE checking everything. From bolt torque to lining up belt teeth.
#9
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I cannot recommend doing the full kit strongly enough; doing the belt only is like leaving your laundry hanging in the breeze and waiting for something to blow off the line.
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losiglow (10-16-2018)
#10
Huh. I saw the Aisin kit and it looks pretty good and not crazy expensive for what it is. I'll return the OEM belt and use this kit, looks like the better way to go then.
#11
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My only comment regarding the very high quality Aisin kit is the lack of cam seals. I never really gave this much thought and both of my J-Series motors had their first timing belt services done with the kit; a couple years later both started leaking oil from the cam seals. Not bad enough to cause me to replace them before the next TB service, but still annoying.
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I think one of the reasons some mechanics and dealers cheap out on replacing other components (other than cost of course...) is that most pulleys, tensioners and water pumps tend to last a long time. Often the life of the vehicle. But for me, it's a combination of reducing risk for a relatively small amount of $$$ as well as peace of mind. If we were talking big bucks for those parts, or that the risk of failure only resulted in minor damage, things might be different. But when we're talking about a $10 pulley or something like that, to reduce the risk of a $4000 engine replacement, it's sort of a no-brainer. Especially if you're planning on keeping the vehicle for a long time.
Last edited by losiglow; 10-16-2018 at 12:52 PM.
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horseshoez (10-16-2018)
#13
I am likely due for the major service soon as well. I have a 2009 sh-awd at 87000 miles. Although it’s suppose to be at 105K I have a rattle type noise coming from the engine when it is started at low temperatures. Does not happen when warm, only when sitting for a couple days and cold. Sound goes away when car is warmed up and does not come back. Like I said, completely depends on how cold engine is. From researched on this forum it sounds like it’s a leaking tensioner? Can anyone confirm or provide more info on this? Should I be rushing to get the service done ASAP?
#14
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I am currently at 121k miles and plan on getting the Aisin kit. But it sounds like I should get the cam seals on the side because it does not come with.
My local mechanic that I have been going to for the past 10 years has done a great job in my past vehicles, so I would assume if I bring him all these parts he will let me know if I am missing anything. He is one of those shops that will gladly have his customer bring in the parts and he will install them.
Is there anything else I need to replace while they are under there? Themostat?
My local mechanic that I have been going to for the past 10 years has done a great job in my past vehicles, so I would assume if I bring him all these parts he will let me know if I am missing anything. He is one of those shops that will gladly have his customer bring in the parts and he will install them.
Is there anything else I need to replace while they are under there? Themostat?
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I am currently at 121k miles and plan on getting the Aisin kit. But it sounds like I should get the cam seals on the side because it does not come with.
My local mechanic that I have been going to for the past 10 years has done a great job in my past vehicles, so I would assume if I bring him all these parts he will let me know if I am missing anything. He is one of those shops that will gladly have his customer bring in the parts and he will install them.
Is there anything else I need to replace while they are under there? Themostat?
My local mechanic that I have been going to for the past 10 years has done a great job in my past vehicles, so I would assume if I bring him all these parts he will let me know if I am missing anything. He is one of those shops that will gladly have his customer bring in the parts and he will install them.
Is there anything else I need to replace while they are under there? Themostat?
#16
Burning Brakes
Aisin. I only change my main seal and use OEM. I have never changed my cam seals but they (and main seal) can be purchased separately. Getting a good quality water pump is important.
#17
I am likely due for the major service soon as well. I have a 2009 sh-awd at 87000 miles. Although it’s suppose to be at 105K I have a rattle type noise coming from the engine when it is started at low temperatures. Does not happen when warm, only when sitting for a couple days and cold. Sound goes away when car is warmed up and does not come back. Like I said, completely depends on how cold engine is. From researched on this forum it sounds like it’s a leaking tensioner? Can anyone confirm or provide more info on this? Should I be rushing to get the service done ASAP?
#18
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I'd get the TB service done soon. You're past the 7 year point recommended for a TB service. Plus, with the rattle issue it might be related. Rattles/squeaks, etc. are always tough to pin down, so it may not be an indication of problems, but get it checked when it's in for the TB/water pump, etc.
#19
I know that some think that the 100k miles or 160k km is the only guide but I'm still skeptical on letting a belt go beyond 7-8 years. Almost every dealer/mechanic I've dealt with have recommended not letting a TB go beyond that length of time. In addition, there is some discussion here in Canada regarding the mileage determination part. I have a 2013 TL and the service manual is a little vague. The maintenance schedule can be read to say the TB service is due at 100k km [60k miles] because the car is driven in certain temperatures. Here in S Ont we get temps that range from -30c to +40c. Honda seems to recommend that this is severe service territory. The TB service issue is always a topic of conversation on any board -- look at a Porsche board they go through the same discussions.
#20
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I know that some think that the 100k miles or 160k km is the only guide but I'm still skeptical on letting a belt go beyond 7-8 years. Almost every dealer/mechanic I've dealt with have recommended not letting a TB go beyond that length of time. In addition, there is some discussion here in Canada regarding the mileage determination part. I have a 2013 TL and the service manual is a little vague. The maintenance schedule can be read to say the TB service is due at 100k km [60k miles] because the car is driven in certain temperatures. Here in S Ont we get temps that range from -30c to +40c. Honda seems to recommend that this is severe service territory. The TB service issue is always a topic of conversation on any board -- look at a Porsche board they go through the same discussions.
As for the schedule, living in southern Ontario does not in any way qualify for the severe service schedule.
#21
I agree re severe vs non-severe but there are some dealers who try to use that still. If you're not using time in any way - would you let a timing belt go beyond say, 15 years?
#22
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Good point; last year when I was shopping for a car I came across a 2006 TL 6MT with Nav in Red Pearl (don't know the actual color code) with a tan leather interior with only 20,300 miles on the clock. The car was 3,000 miles from where I live, and there is no way I would have driven an eleven year old car with that few miles on it across the country without a timing belt change (and new tires and all belts and hoses right down to the brake hoses). That said, rubber components tend to harden and crack with lack of use, and that car hadn't been driven in three years (it had been owned by an elderly man who finally passed).
#23
You mentioned it, so I was curious -- I just looked at the maintenance schedule and also the owner's manual. It does state that the TB service is due at 100k km (60,000 mi) 'if regularly driven in very high 43c [110F] or low temperatures -29c [-20F]'. I guess if a dealer wants to be really difficult they can point to that, especially if they're refusing to do warranty work (i.e., replace an engine). (Page 544)
#24
Good point; last year when I was shopping for a car I came across a 2006 TL 6MT with Nav in Red Pearl (don't know the actual color code) with a tan leather interior with only 20,300 miles on the clock. The car was 3,000 miles from where I live, and there is no way I would have driven an eleven year old car with that few miles on it across the country without a timing belt change (and new tires and all belts and hoses right down to the brake hoses). That said, rubber components tend to harden and crack with lack of use, and that car hadn't been driven in three years (it had been owned by an elderly man who finally passed).
#25
The inconvenient truth
I live in southern Ontario too and cannot remember the last time it was close to 43c or -29c for even a day, not to mention 'regularly'.
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Sounds like it was a nice car. You don't say whether you bought it - did you? Since I don't add a lot of mileage to my cars, it always a point of discussion. Tires are another one for me. I have had tires that I had to replace because of the time factor - not mileage. Frustrating, but when you like to have multiple cars it is what it is...
#28
Too bad - sounds like it was a nice car. Still, I wonder what it might have brought on Bring A Trailer - once all the updates were done. A three pedal, with only 20k miles would attract some interest.
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