probmxstyle

While the smaller filter may not effect the longevity of the engine, if you can get the larger filter for the same price, then why not go for it?

fsttyms1

Im not saying you shouldnt, just that i see no benefit from it. Its not like these engines are having issues. Though having said that i see the filter size that is "stock" or "recommended" for my 2ndgen is much larger than the 4th gen.

Edward'TLS

^^^^^

This is like filling up a car, that only requires 91 octane, with 94 octane gas.

jim_c

Interesting comments. It's good to consider pros and cons on any issue. We live in a world where we are bombarded with ads and messages and exhortations that we "must" do or buy or have the latest material things. Don't believe everything you are told! Think.

fsttyms1

Fixed

alienstudio

MID dipped to 10% and went in for a B1 service today. Brought my own oil and filter in to the dealer to performance the maintenance. I used mobil 1 extended performance synthetic oil and m110 oil filter. It is the first time using synthetic ( dealer used conventional for all the previous maintenance to save a couple $$, probably due to my 25month complimentary service that came along when I purchased the car).
My impression after the service was, the car idled quieter, reved faster and quieter, the gear shifts seemed to be more smooth.
I think I will never switch back to conventional again if all these are true, not just me fooling myself inside.

BEAR-AvHistory

Might be a placebo effect but syn is a better choice than dino as long as you don’t go overboard on the price. I can see the engine quieter as the oil clean the lifters etc but I really would not bet my life that the car is quicker.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^^ placebo!! lol

C8N

seems like walmart has the cheapest price on oil and filters... did i miss anything?

jim_c

What lifters would those be?

C8N

Looks like walmart does not carry the correct filters, at least online, for our TL but the mobil 1extended performance filters I am seeing anywhere from $15 to $19 for a 2 pack.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil for 5 qt of 5w-20 is $27

BEAR-AvHistory

]

The VTEC system is made up of a hydraulic control system including the valve operation switchover system and hydraulic circuit built inside the valve lifter of paused valves. Dirty oil & varnish can make them sticky & they click.

jim_c

Ok.

Mr Marco

:whybother:

Mr Marco

In this diagram the item is a cam follower.

Mr Marco

BEAR-AvHistory

If Honda calls it a lifter & ID's in their drawing that is good enough for me. Expect now you might want to get into a discussion of mechanical vs. hydraulic lifters & what is the best lubricant to use on them during a camshaft install?

Interesting thing, my daughter when she was 12 could set the mechanical tappets (another name for them) on my racing engines that I built.

asb32952

Will this fit on a 2009 tl? They have free shipping now and $5 off $25 when you sign up for emails. I use a b202 for the 2001. Its to big for the 2009.

https://www.zoro.com/baldwin-filters...=baldwin+b1431

asb32952

Pic's of three Filters for a Honda S2000 | Engine Oil Filters | Bob Is The Oil Guy

I hate cars

Yes, it is. Except cost is the same. With that, you get added insurance when things go wrong and the engine is operated outside of its normal intended parameters. Cold morning, cold oil, you accidentally pull out in front of someone and have to run it up to 7,000rpm, a higher flowing filter is less likely to go into bypass and send unfiltered oil through the engine. Or maybe you forget or you're just lazy and go a few thousand miles past the scheduled OCI. You have the security of having more media surface area and more loading capacity. Maybe your air filter or air filter to throttle body tube develops a rip that you don't catch right away. You have the additional media to deal with it. If non synthetic cellulose, maybe you end up with lots of moisture in the oil from winter and short trips. It swells and chokes off flow. At least you have the additional media to lower pressure drop. Maybe the car is loaded down with people and their things and you're climbing the Grapevine on a 109F day. The surface area of the filter isn't going to help much but the additional 1/2 quart of oil wil buy you a little time. The additional volume also allows slightly longer OCIs.
Exactly. The engineers have to compete with the bean counters from the factory. We do not.

Hp and engine size do not determine filter needs. Expected flow rate and OCI are the big ones. Expected loading is a part of that which is why diesels (light duty passenger car and pickup truck) tend to have larger filters due to soot in the oil. I know one of the engineers that was on the design team of the modular engine project which is pretty much every Ford engine now. He personally told me the results of the lubrication testing even on the low hp 280hp 4.6l and it would blow your mind. They loved a 40wt oil. Wear was reduced in the neighborhood of 300% vs a 20wt when running them on a long term dyno each with the same program that simulated daily driving including idle, part throttle, and full throttle, along with cold starts. With the pressure (financial penalties) from the government they went with a 20wt since it still gave acceptable results going over 100k miles reliably. This is not a case of out smarting engineers. It's a case of doing what they likely would have done if allowed to. Obviously the ones that had excessive wear spec'd a thicker oil, up to a 50wt on some of the supercharged versions. Those SC engines used the same clearances before anyone goes there. They were built just as tight as the ones run on 20wt. Even my TL only sees a 40wt.
Our hands are not tied by the bean counters as the factory engineers' hands are. The above post explains it.
Mobil does not make a street synthetic anymore, not even their 0-40. It says "fully synthetic" on the bottle but it's a highly refined grpIII oil with zero to very little PAO synthetic. It's a very good oil but not a true syn if you're in the camp that considers a grp IV and V a true syn. The best you will get from that company is a "semi Syn". If you're going to spend that kind of money you might as well go all the way and use a true ester base oil. Redline and Motul are the only ones I put know of that offer ester POE oils in a street formulation. I've already written enough but let's just say the benefits are enormous.

On to the real problem... You say it was quieter, ok maybe. It revved quicker? How much hp do you think the oil is actually costing you? But ok, I'll even give you the benefit of the doubt. Gear shifts more smooth...... No. This goes to show how powerful the placebo effect is. It is 100% impossible for the engine oil to affect how the transmission shifts unless you're on a motorcycle with a common sump.

I literally, every single time, believe that my car idles more smoothly, has more power, and shifts better when I wash it. I know it's not true but it really feels that way, especially since I wash it twice a year and it's a drastic difference in looks.

It's also important to note that a 258hp TL engine will usually outlast the car it's in with any modern correct spec oil, no matter how cheap. I use Redline 0-40 in mine and have always used at least a 5-30 since the first oil change at 3,000 miles. It's overkill but I have the money and I live in a hot climate where my 30 and even 40wt oil is as thin as a 20wt in a colder climate so it's a matter of "why not".

With that said, the most important filter on the car is the engine air filter. This filter directly contributes to engine wear, primarily upper cylinder wear and later, journal bearing wear. Many cars didn't even use oil filters up to the 1950s but then again, life expectancy was 50,000 miles and OCIs were ~1,000 miles. With the advent of closed loop feedback EFI and no other mechanical changes, we saw a good 300% increase in engine life expectancy. So with fuel dilution and improper ignition timing out of the way caused from ancient carburetors and misfires caused from weak ignitions and incomplete AF burn from all of the above plus igniting it too early or too late, the air filter plays a more important role than ever.

If I was budget constrained and had to choose, I would run the cheapest oil filter that had a good anti drain back valve and put all of the money into the air filter. In our case it would be the awesome factory filter (seriously) with its 3 stage filtration (oil, foam, paper) along with using silicone seals to seal around the edges. There's a reason the factory used a cheap junk oil filter but used one of the best air filters I've seen.

asb32952

This 3 7/16" long Baldwin will fit. I think the 4" is cutting it to close.
https://www.govets.com/index.php/bal...cxg-2lab3.html
Details:
https://ph.baldwinfilters.com/baldwi...specifications.
Other versions that will fit are the Baldwin B1400 and B1402. This brand is prob the best bang for the buck imo.