Oil filter
10-10-2013, 04:37 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil filter
Switching to mobil 1 synthetic , wondering what oil filter to go along. Stick to oem or go with mobil 1 oil filter? Did some research and over on the 3g side, some uses s2000's oil filter, so want to know what are the options that can provide the best result to the car.
Thanks
Thanks
10-10-2013, 05:14 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
10-10-2013, 05:19 PM
#5
2006 6MT TL checking in! 
Look at the GIRTH on the s2k M1 filter!
Dont mind the girly hands.
All Honda's use the same thread pitch for the oil filters.
the TL's oil filter is skinnier than this one.
it does the job just fine.
however, I do like to push my car and slightly abuse it.
the s2k filter simply has more real estate.
The M1 S2k filter model number is M1-104
Look at the GIRTH on the s2k M1 filter!
Dont mind the girly hands.
All Honda's use the same thread pitch for the oil filters.
the TL's oil filter is skinnier than this one.
it does the job just fine.
however, I do like to push my car and slightly abuse it.
the s2k filter simply has more real estate.
The M1 S2k filter model number is M1-104
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CerberusKy (10-11-2013)
10-10-2013, 05:25 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
2006 6MT TL checking in!
Look at the GIRTH on the s2k M1 filter!
Dont mind the girly hands.
All Honda's use the same thread pitch for the oil filters.
the TL's oil filter is skinnier than this one.
it does the job just fine.
however, I do like to push my car and slightly abuse it.
the s2k filter simply has more real estate.
The M1 S2k filter model number is M1-104
Look at the GIRTH on the s2k M1 filter!
Dont mind the girly hands.
All Honda's use the same thread pitch for the oil filters.
the TL's oil filter is skinnier than this one.
it does the job just fine.
however, I do like to push my car and slightly abuse it.
the s2k filter simply has more real estate.
The M1 S2k filter model number is M1-104
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10-10-2013, 05:37 PM
#9
However, on the flip side....
Royal Purple filters are supposed to be one of the best, because of the synthetic filter media.
Royal Purple filters are supposed to be one of the best, because of the synthetic filter media.
I had a long ass detailed post written up the this POS computer crashed on me......
As most of you know I'm a huge Amsoil fan. I've been running their straight 30wt oil and EAO filters almost since the car was new and couldn't be happier at 74,000 miles.
The EAO filters have been known to have the best filtration and flow made possible by a fully synthetic glass media licensed to them by Donaldson. This was pretty much the only way to get this media in an automotive application.
The only thing that's always stuck in the back of my mind is the slightly longer time to pressure with the Amsoil filter after sitting overnight. This corresponds with the fact that I can easily blow air right past the anti-drainback valve. Once the car had been warmed up, the oil pressure light would go off nearly instantly.
I noticed about a month ago that RP now offers a filter with a fully synthetic media. According to the ISO tests, the RP filters as good, maybe better than the Amsoil filters so this got me curious and I had to try it. I went out yesterday and bought the RP filter. The things I noticed were:
Both filters have metal endcaps (vs cardboard for the cheap ones)
Both have silicone anti-drainback valves.
The RP one has a wire backed media for more strength.
The RP one has the better O-ring style gasket.
So on to the test. I installed the RP one yesterday without changing the oil. I didn't want to change the oil because it would add one more variable and it only has 200 miles on it. I couldn't really tell a difference because the engine was already hot and it always has nearly instant pressure when hot. The real test was this morning. I went out and fired it up and pressure was just about instant, exactly how it is when it's fully hot. I shut it off and let it sit all day until just now. I started it again and same result, instant pressure.
So to conclude, the RP is equal or better in nearly every way and has an actual functioning anti-drainback valve (purple lol). Price is comparable at $16 and the RP is available locally only at PepBoys.
And before anyone says it, the Mobil One filter is a synthetic blend, like most of their oils.
As most of you know I'm a huge Amsoil fan. I've been running their straight 30wt oil and EAO filters almost since the car was new and couldn't be happier at 74,000 miles.
The EAO filters have been known to have the best filtration and flow made possible by a fully synthetic glass media licensed to them by Donaldson. This was pretty much the only way to get this media in an automotive application.
The only thing that's always stuck in the back of my mind is the slightly longer time to pressure with the Amsoil filter after sitting overnight. This corresponds with the fact that I can easily blow air right past the anti-drainback valve. Once the car had been warmed up, the oil pressure light would go off nearly instantly.
I noticed about a month ago that RP now offers a filter with a fully synthetic media. According to the ISO tests, the RP filters as good, maybe better than the Amsoil filters so this got me curious and I had to try it. I went out yesterday and bought the RP filter. The things I noticed were:
Both filters have metal endcaps (vs cardboard for the cheap ones)
Both have silicone anti-drainback valves.
The RP one has a wire backed media for more strength.
The RP one has the better O-ring style gasket.
So on to the test. I installed the RP one yesterday without changing the oil. I didn't want to change the oil because it would add one more variable and it only has 200 miles on it. I couldn't really tell a difference because the engine was already hot and it always has nearly instant pressure when hot. The real test was this morning. I went out and fired it up and pressure was just about instant, exactly how it is when it's fully hot. I shut it off and let it sit all day until just now. I started it again and same result, instant pressure.
So to conclude, the RP is equal or better in nearly every way and has an actual functioning anti-drainback valve (purple lol). Price is comparable at $16 and the RP is available locally only at PepBoys.
And before anyone says it, the Mobil One filter is a synthetic blend, like most of their oils.
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justnspace (10-10-2013)
10-10-2013, 11:19 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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justnspace (10-11-2013)
10-11-2013, 09:47 AM
#14
Account closed
OEM filter, OEM oil, don't believe the hype.
Also, change it at the factory recommended intervals not sooner or you're just flushing good money (and oil) down the drain.
BMW/MINI dealer told me to just go the factory 15 THOUSAND miles between changes even though I had modded the motor and ran it around the track a few dozen times.
What degrades oil is heat and contaminants, I'd guess you're not running your car that hard to get that hot and motors tolerances are less than a human hair now so nothing is getting past the rings to the oil in new cars.
Also, change it at the factory recommended intervals not sooner or you're just flushing good money (and oil) down the drain.
BMW/MINI dealer told me to just go the factory 15 THOUSAND miles between changes even though I had modded the motor and ran it around the track a few dozen times.
What degrades oil is heat and contaminants, I'd guess you're not running your car that hard to get that hot and motors tolerances are less than a human hair now so nothing is getting past the rings to the oil in new cars.
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justnspace (10-11-2013)
10-11-2013, 10:48 AM
#16
2011 SH-AWD 6MT
What is the point of the larger filter? Has anyone had an oil analysis done for comparison?
Also, how does the cost of the OEM filter/oil compare to say, Mobil 1?
Also, how does the cost of the OEM filter/oil compare to say, Mobil 1?
10-11-2013, 02:04 PM
#17
I usually get my oil from Walmart. It's the cheapest place that I could find around here. They sell the Mobil1 big 5 quart jugs for around $25 (regular, EP, AFE types).
I buy the Bosch Distance Plus filters that are in the same isle. They work well for me.
I buy the Bosch Distance Plus filters that are in the same isle. They work well for me.
10-11-2013, 07:51 PM
#19
I use RP, Bosch and Mobil1 filters. I can't tell a difference between the filtering capacity or lack there of behind the drivers seat. I usually buy 3-4 sets of 5qt/filter whenever there's a special. I recently came across a video of a young fella cutting open and examining the contents of about 10 filters, his observations concluded that the K&N filter was the best.
we really are splitting hairs here.
10-11-2013, 11:48 PM
#21
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If you want to stay with an Acura family get the bigger Honda filter. The Mobil 1 replacement is also a good choice. Used both on my 3G. As far as filters go the TL's is very very small so any advantage you can get with the bigger versions is important.
Example: I have a 2cyl 750cc lawn tractor that runs the same size filter as the stock TL. When I was racing with Chevy engines I use truck filters which were a little more than 2x the length of the passenger car versions. More oil capacity, more filter media, more flow capability & more cooling surface exposed to the air.
Example: I have a 2cyl 750cc lawn tractor that runs the same size filter as the stock TL. When I was racing with Chevy engines I use truck filters which were a little more than 2x the length of the passenger car versions. More oil capacity, more filter media, more flow capability & more cooling surface exposed to the air.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 10-11-2013 at 11:54 PM.
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justnspace (10-12-2013)
10-12-2013, 08:34 PM
#24
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You can see how much extra clearance you had around your current filter. IIRC on the G3 the Honda sport car filter was OK in diameter but could have easily been longer & still fit with no interference problems. Problem will be finding a filter with the same gasket & thread pattern as your TL.
First place I would look is across all of the Honda product lines especially trucks & delivery vans to see what might be available.
First place I would look is across all of the Honda product lines especially trucks & delivery vans to see what might be available.
10-13-2013, 01:05 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
The stock filter information is: 20x1.5mm thread and 2.475"OD x 2.173"ID gasket.
The biggest I found that fits my TL (2012 3.7L) is a Amsoil EAO21.
(3.66" dia x 3.14" tall and 2.834"OD x 2.462"ID gasket).
See pictures here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872940
If you prefer a different brand it can be cross referenced.
Baldwin also makes a Honda/Acura designated "long" filter but I'm not familiar with the brand. Baldwin B1431 (OEM dia and 4" long)
The biggest I found that fits my TL (2012 3.7L) is a Amsoil EAO21.
(3.66" dia x 3.14" tall and 2.834"OD x 2.462"ID gasket).
See pictures here: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872940
If you prefer a different brand it can be cross referenced.
Baldwin also makes a Honda/Acura designated "long" filter but I'm not familiar with the brand. Baldwin B1431 (OEM dia and 4" long)
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justnspace (10-13-2013)
10-13-2013, 01:30 PM
#29
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Baldwin is a multi national company been in business since 1936. On the I don't race comment IMHO the stock TL filer is marginal for even a DD. If its not it has to be close to the record setter for the smallest filter per CC of engine size in modern cars.
10-13-2013, 02:01 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
I agree BEAR, the OEM filter for the Honda V-6 is also used for the 4 cylinder and is just too small. The V-6s also have piston oil squirters which requires a higher oil flow rate.
Therefore a larger filter in the brand of your choice (at the same price) is a no-
brainer.
Therefore a larger filter in the brand of your choice (at the same price) is a no-
brainer.
10-13-2013, 03:31 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
Considering I am an engineer and design fluid systems for a living, there is some validity to my opinions. A different opinion doesn't mean I think I'm smarter.
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justnspace (10-13-2013)
10-13-2013, 08:08 PM
#34
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This is the reason a lot of street cars with an emphasis toward performance have large oil pans or dry sump tanks, plenty of oil cooling & enlarged filtering capability. Even my little 3.0 liter inline 6 runs a 7qt oil system including oil cooler stock from the factory.
Smaller oil pans, small filters are generally cost containment factors. Yes those very smart engineers who designed the TL decided that an oiling system the same size as the 2.3 liter 4 has would get by in the Acura 3.7. I am happy that their collective big brains are happy with that. I expect that the cost accountants are ecstatic.
Thing I do wonder about is if 4.x quarts is good for a 3.7 liter engine can’t they cut the 4 cylinder back to 2 quarts? Interesting note back in the day, well not really that far back Honda 4’s had 5.5 quart systems.
10-14-2013, 11:39 AM
#35
Maybe Acura has changed a few things on the TL since the 2010 model so that others here can fit a larger diameter filter on your cars, but on my 2010, the lower suspension arm has very specific shape to avoid from hitting the oil filter when moving up and down during its' range of travel. It couldn't be much fatter or longer a filter before it would be too close for comfort on my car.
10-14-2013, 12:03 PM
#36
Here is a link to a photo of the lower arm.
http://www.partsvp.com/products/ARM,...%252dA01).html
Look at the middle photo, just below the letter "T" that is spashed across the photo. You can see a cresent shaped relief on the arm. This is to mark sure it don't hit the oil filter. It is not big, but without it, there must have been a risk of hitting. So if a larger filter is put on, I would look real close at this area for any issues.
http://www.partsvp.com/products/ARM,...%252dA01).html
Look at the middle photo, just below the letter "T" that is spashed across the photo. You can see a cresent shaped relief on the arm. This is to mark sure it don't hit the oil filter. It is not big, but without it, there must have been a risk of hitting. So if a larger filter is put on, I would look real close at this area for any issues.
10-14-2013, 07:19 PM
#37
See attached photo.
This is at rest height. When the suspension compresses, those two parts are going to get very close.
Sorry about all the dirt, but the car is over 4 years old.
This is at rest height. When the suspension compresses, those two parts are going to get very close.
Sorry about all the dirt, but the car is over 4 years old.
Last edited by Little Gator; 10-14-2013 at 07:28 PM.
10-15-2013, 05:15 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
Note to BEAR and Reorge - I am not arguing, and I agree with what you wrote. I was being kind of facetious with my earlier post, sort of playing devil's advocate, just to spark some discussion. This is interesting to me because I am a car nerd as well. My point is that the tiny little filter on the TL is probably adequate, or else they wouldn't spec it that way. To worry about it or to spend a big effort to find something better is perhaps "splitting hairs" as another poster above commented. (?) It's important to remember we are talking about regular run of the mill street cars here, daily drivers, not racing machines. Of the various factors that were mentioned, it would seem to me that the only real critical characteristic of the oil filter in this context would be flow rate so it doesn't interfere with the rest of the system doing its job. It doesn't need to act as a cooler, and it probably doesn't need to really act as much of a filter either when you get right down to it! I don't think there's a lot of solid impurities being filtered out of a Honda engine. For my money, the best treatment for an engine is to use good quality motor oil and change it frequently. Changing the oil (and filter) removes and discards all or most of the pollutants and impurities that have accumulated over the time its been in the car.
Sometimes its good to re-examine conventional wisdom and look at a question from all angles. Please keep the interesting comments coming.
Sometimes its good to re-examine conventional wisdom and look at a question from all angles. Please keep the interesting comments coming.
10-17-2013, 11:02 AM
#39
Senior Moderator
I don’t know about smarter but in the land of motor racing hard knocks experience does tend to be a great leveler. Built my first engine in the early ‘60’s. Built as in bare block up, not just bolt-ons. A constant rule from back then which is still enforce is “do not skimp on lubrication”.
This is the reason a lot of street cars with an emphasis toward performance have large oil pans or dry sump tanks, plenty of oil cooling & enlarged filtering capability. Even my little 3.0 liter inline 6 runs a 7qt oil system including oil cooler stock from the factory.
Smaller oil pans, small filters are generally cost containment factors. Yes those very smart engineers who designed the TL decided that an oiling system the same size as the 2.3 liter 4 has would get by in the Acura 3.7. I am happy that their collective big brains are happy with that. I expect that the cost accountants are ecstatic.
Thing I do wonder about is if 4.x quarts is good for a 3.7 liter engine can’t they cut the 4 cylinder back to 2 quarts? Interesting note back in the day, well not really that far back Honda 4’s had 5.5 quart systems.
This is the reason a lot of street cars with an emphasis toward performance have large oil pans or dry sump tanks, plenty of oil cooling & enlarged filtering capability. Even my little 3.0 liter inline 6 runs a 7qt oil system including oil cooler stock from the factory.
Smaller oil pans, small filters are generally cost containment factors. Yes those very smart engineers who designed the TL decided that an oiling system the same size as the 2.3 liter 4 has would get by in the Acura 3.7. I am happy that their collective big brains are happy with that. I expect that the cost accountants are ecstatic.
Thing I do wonder about is if 4.x quarts is good for a 3.7 liter engine can’t they cut the 4 cylinder back to 2 quarts? Interesting note back in the day, well not really that far back Honda 4’s had 5.5 quart systems.
And im not here to not to argue with either of you, but from someone with a TL with 600k miles on it (3 different motors only because i get bored often and i converted to a type-s motor and 6 speed trans around 250k from the base motor and i recently got bored with the 3.2 type-s with 330+k on it and rebuilt a 3.2 and made a 3.7 out of it) and one who often sees auto-x/lapping days, and extreme conditions (car idles all day and i run 15k oil change intervals) running the stock filter/sized filter/or the orange filter most love to hate hasnt reduced engine life one bit. Sure a larger filter is going to add more filtering area, but do you really think its going to aid in the motor lasting longer? If you need to have that much more filter area IMHO there is something wrong with your car. In Both motors, the bearings looked like new, the factory crosshatching was/is still visible in the cyls and neither burned oil. Now having said that, will it hurt to have the added filtration? My answer would be No. Do i honestly think you are gaining anything by it? And for the answer i would have to say No as well.
Last edited by fsttyms1; 10-17-2013 at 11:05 AM.
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10-17-2013, 11:57 AM
#40
Ford Motor Co. mades a very good motor in the 5.0 liter, V-8 which makes well over 400 HP in some applications like the Mustang Boss 302. It has a oil filter no bigger than the one in the TL. And in all my weekends at the race track, I have never heard any Mustang owners complain of a filtration problem after running lots of hard laps.
My point is that if that larger and more powerful engine does just fine with the same size OEM filter during lots of hard laps, I know my TL with a smaller motor will be more than capable of getting me down the highway without a filtration problem.
My point is that if that larger and more powerful engine does just fine with the same size OEM filter during lots of hard laps, I know my TL with a smaller motor will be more than capable of getting me down the highway without a filtration problem.