My UA update
#41
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Thread Starter
added megan rear-front rear-back toe adjustment arms from 90-96 accord. with the added negative camber my wheels were toed in like 3 degrees. I put them at zero, but ended up toeing them out .25 degrees to have some rediculous oversteer haha.
swapping to eibach ers
700.250.700 (700lb)fronts
1100.250.800 (800lb)rears
Still waiting on my god damn rear wheels to show from japan. All the rivets from the front ones are removed to be gold plated. Contemplating gold plating the barrels of the wheels also. so navy blue metallic centers, 14kt gold rivets, 14kt gold lip.. 2 inch front lip 5 inch rear lip.
heroin dealer type shit. we'll see.
cars getting ready to go into serious modification stages. I bought a house with a big garage so ive got a shop to work on it on again. look out.
swapping to eibach ers
700.250.700 (700lb)fronts
1100.250.800 (800lb)rears
Still waiting on my god damn rear wheels to show from japan. All the rivets from the front ones are removed to be gold plated. Contemplating gold plating the barrels of the wheels also. so navy blue metallic centers, 14kt gold rivets, 14kt gold lip.. 2 inch front lip 5 inch rear lip.
heroin dealer type shit. we'll see.
cars getting ready to go into serious modification stages. I bought a house with a big garage so ive got a shop to work on it on again. look out.
#42
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Thread Starter
still waiting on my god damn rear wheels man..
I put the left rear toe adjustment arm on there today. The lower rear camber arm/control arm bolt is seized so i said fuck it, put it back together, and came in to watch tv. im really starting to loose interest fucking around with cars.. sigh..
maybe when the wheels show up ill gain some ambition. shit needs paint bad though..
The rear lower strut bar off the 96 accord worked fine on there also.
So once the bolt thats seized is taken off the only thing on the rear of the car thats stock is the actual cast iron hub assembly and the steel trailing arm. Everything else is all different colors and fully adjustable.
either way, my wheels show up at work usa on the 24-28th then go to jhp, then to me. so id assume by mid october ill have them. just in time to put them on and put the car on jackstands for the winter.
I put the left rear toe adjustment arm on there today. The lower rear camber arm/control arm bolt is seized so i said fuck it, put it back together, and came in to watch tv. im really starting to loose interest fucking around with cars.. sigh..
maybe when the wheels show up ill gain some ambition. shit needs paint bad though..
The rear lower strut bar off the 96 accord worked fine on there also.
So once the bolt thats seized is taken off the only thing on the rear of the car thats stock is the actual cast iron hub assembly and the steel trailing arm. Everything else is all different colors and fully adjustable.
either way, my wheels show up at work usa on the 24-28th then go to jhp, then to me. so id assume by mid october ill have them. just in time to put them on and put the car on jackstands for the winter.
#43
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KrayzieDxC
thas some big ass waiting on wheels, from japan ,thas crazy.
this size/offset in this particular wheel has never been ordered before supposedly according to the work usa guy i talked to. totally one off custom.
most of the time when someone orders a -12mm offset wheel i guess its wider than just 9 inches.
Im kinda wishing i went bigger now. Or like a -22mm instead of a -12. my new house has this fucking curb from the 6th circle of hell. So the fucker sits in the garage a lot more now anyways. If i drive it i have to drive through some mulch flower bed things and between two spruce trees down the easy part of the curb. Neighbors look at me like "what the fuck is this guy doing?" fuckem. im gonna wait till everyones gone to work one day and blast the curb with a sledgehammer mass times. then call the city and have them put a new one in. Ill wait there the day the dudes come to put the new one in with a gift certificate to the carryout pony keg for 40 bucks and 150 bucks cash. Hopefully i can swindle a sweet curb. If not, between the spruce trees it goes.
#44
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Thread Starter
Uh Ohh Lookey Lookey
My boy at JHPUSA just informed me that my wheels showed up today at work usa from work japan. They are being sent to me now so not much longer dudes..
Heres the photos he took for me..
Keep in mind the centers are the HIGH DISK centers. I have brand new SUPER LOW DISK centers here already that im using for those lips. So these will actually have a significantly bigger lip id assume as opposed to how they have now which isnt as big as i wanted but unless i wanted to wait like 40 years i had to go with just a -4mm
anyhow whatever it will do..
Heres the photos he took for me..
Keep in mind the centers are the HIGH DISK centers. I have brand new SUPER LOW DISK centers here already that im using for those lips. So these will actually have a significantly bigger lip id assume as opposed to how they have now which isnt as big as i wanted but unless i wanted to wait like 40 years i had to go with just a -4mm
anyhow whatever it will do..
#47
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Thread Starter
Heres some shitty phone pictures i snapped. I didnt have my camera when i got the wheels. They are already at the powdercoaters dissassembled entirely and sanded.
Once again ignore the bodywork, im going to get some stuff tonight to start sanding the car down and welding a new quater skin on it....
Once again ignore the bodywork, im going to get some stuff tonight to start sanding the car down and welding a new quater skin on it....
#49
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Thread Starter
prolly like -5 degrees or less in the rear. Pretty much i can adjust the entire suspension on the rear like 10 degrees in or out..
Ill adjust it till its precisely how i want it to look..
Im running a 225 35 19 fk452 on the rear 9 inch wides..
I kinda want to sell two of them though and get 215's for the rear.
And yea the wheel does go past half my fingers its like 4 inches.. and its not exactly what i wanted either. I wanted a -20mm
Maybe some day ill order -32mm rear barrels or some shit right.. hehe
Ill adjust it till its precisely how i want it to look..
Im running a 225 35 19 fk452 on the rear 9 inch wides..
I kinda want to sell two of them though and get 215's for the rear.
And yea the wheel does go past half my fingers its like 4 inches.. and its not exactly what i wanted either. I wanted a -20mm
Maybe some day ill order -32mm rear barrels or some shit right.. hehe
#51
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KrayzieDxC
very nice! and nice big garage too!
i think 8x 8foot dual 110 watt flourescents on the ceiling and 2 on each wall will work ok dont you?
should be like a labratory in there when im done.. just how i like it..
#52
Khmer Pride
Originally Posted by Colt45
yea i need to paint and seal that drywall white, epoxy the floor white, and hang up these lights i got.
i think 8x 8foot dual 110 watt flourescents on the ceiling and 2 on each wall will work ok dont you?
should be like a labratory in there when im done.. just how i like it..
i think 8x 8foot dual 110 watt flourescents on the ceiling and 2 on each wall will work ok dont you?
should be like a labratory in there when im done.. just how i like it..
#57
大日本帝国
Originally Posted by Inspired[RUS]
Nice rims, but... I'll understand that if it'll be rear weels drive, but for front one? No way, May be you'd think about s2000 tranny and rear diff and so on?
~Cheers~
#58
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Thread Starter
naw you niggas is crazy..
I have not even swapped the hubs yet. haha..
With the hubs swapped the wheels move in the fender 2 inches..
And you are not keeping in mind i can move the wheel even another 2 inches in on top by lentghening my lower control arms with a simple turn of the 3/4 adjustment nut. haha.
Like i said i have literally NOTHING besides the hub bracket and the trailing arm itself that is stock in the rear.
It WILL NOT RUB period. and it WILL NOT BE WIDEBODY or BUBBLED OUT fenders. This car will retain the stock body lines with the exception of the aero kit.
Honestly based on the fitment. I think i could make the -4 work with the stock parts. With my hubs swapped and my adjustability i could make a -38mm ET work the way its sitting right now.
as far as why its like this being fwd. Its because i can.. If i wanted an s2000 tranny, id buy an s2000. I dont, therefore it has a tl transmission.. Im going for a certian look, those who are aware and so forth with that look, will more than understand whats going on here.
If i did any tranny swapping id do a 95 legend gs 6 speed and build turbo manifolds for it. But i dont really have time. Besides if i wanted something fast id just put the sleeved block back into my civic and a gt42r full race turbo kit.
I have not even swapped the hubs yet. haha..
With the hubs swapped the wheels move in the fender 2 inches..
And you are not keeping in mind i can move the wheel even another 2 inches in on top by lentghening my lower control arms with a simple turn of the 3/4 adjustment nut. haha.
Like i said i have literally NOTHING besides the hub bracket and the trailing arm itself that is stock in the rear.
It WILL NOT RUB period. and it WILL NOT BE WIDEBODY or BUBBLED OUT fenders. This car will retain the stock body lines with the exception of the aero kit.
Honestly based on the fitment. I think i could make the -4 work with the stock parts. With my hubs swapped and my adjustability i could make a -38mm ET work the way its sitting right now.
as far as why its like this being fwd. Its because i can.. If i wanted an s2000 tranny, id buy an s2000. I dont, therefore it has a tl transmission.. Im going for a certian look, those who are aware and so forth with that look, will more than understand whats going on here.
If i did any tranny swapping id do a 95 legend gs 6 speed and build turbo manifolds for it. But i dont really have time. Besides if i wanted something fast id just put the sleeved block back into my civic and a gt42r full race turbo kit.
#60
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Thread Starter
Well i got the hub pulled apart......
The lower rear toe adjustment arms are installed. rear lower control arms are not on yet however, the bolts are seized so I'm going to have to cut them out of the lower cross member.
I pulled the tl hubs and wheel bearings off the rear and everything slid right onto the spindle.Only problem was the bearing itself on the tl is about 1/32 of an inch thicker. Due to this the washer behind the "axle nut" on the rear does not sit flush onto the bearing. Without fixing this the bearing would most definately prematurely wear, if not cause the entire suspension to have slop in the rear. Im pretty sure i can just take a washer and mill out what material is necessary to put this on in order to make it press againsts the bearing tightly.
With the bearing on the car, and the... you know what, fuck it, ill just buy a camera tomorrow. It's too hard to explain
General update:
Wheels are powdercoated already and awaiting assembly and mounting and balancing tomorrow. Ill finish up the rest of the rear shit as soon as i get a chance and it will be all together.
ill work on getting some pictures.
The lower rear toe adjustment arms are installed. rear lower control arms are not on yet however, the bolts are seized so I'm going to have to cut them out of the lower cross member.
I pulled the tl hubs and wheel bearings off the rear and everything slid right onto the spindle.Only problem was the bearing itself on the tl is about 1/32 of an inch thicker. Due to this the washer behind the "axle nut" on the rear does not sit flush onto the bearing. Without fixing this the bearing would most definately prematurely wear, if not cause the entire suspension to have slop in the rear. Im pretty sure i can just take a washer and mill out what material is necessary to put this on in order to make it press againsts the bearing tightly.
With the bearing on the car, and the... you know what, fuck it, ill just buy a camera tomorrow. It's too hard to explain
General update:
Wheels are powdercoated already and awaiting assembly and mounting and balancing tomorrow. Ill finish up the rest of the rear shit as soon as i get a chance and it will be all together.
ill work on getting some pictures.
#61
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Thread Starter
update gheTOE pics 12dpi
shitty cellphone pictures.. haha
smarter than the average ASE master tech
My dude lookin for some 10mm's
Closer look of the zip ties and the shitty stock lower control arms that are seized on and about to get cut off today.
Removed abs lines from metal holders and put them onto toe adjustment arms with zip ties.
Better angle on the lower control arm
a look at the prelude hub on there with the dust sheild taken off and the lower control arm not on yet.
Turds vs prelude shit. little more offset? And my helper getting me the flat head.
I think i got enough flourescent 8 foot lights didnt i? haha
smarter than the average ASE master tech
My dude lookin for some 10mm's
Closer look of the zip ties and the shitty stock lower control arms that are seized on and about to get cut off today.
Removed abs lines from metal holders and put them onto toe adjustment arms with zip ties.
Better angle on the lower control arm
a look at the prelude hub on there with the dust sheild taken off and the lower control arm not on yet.
Turds vs prelude shit. little more offset? And my helper getting me the flat head.
I think i got enough flourescent 8 foot lights didnt i? haha
#62
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Thread Starter
yea sorry about the crappy pics..
I want to take good ones of the car with dents and shitty paint before i redo it. I wanna make sure paint and body is last though. I hate climbing around that shit with new paint.
I want to take good ones of the car with dents and shitty paint before i redo it. I wanna make sure paint and body is last though. I hate climbing around that shit with new paint.
#65
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Thread Starter
and im jealous my chassis is not in as good of shape as yours.
haha
give me time though, now that i have my own place i can take all the time and space i need to finish the body and paint the right way.
Im glad i did the wheels the body color i have. I really forget sometimes how good it looks when its cleaned up. I mean it looks like freddy krugers face right now, but in a few months.....
does anyone on here have a picture of what some brand new tl, or rl seats look like? Im contemplating just having all the pillars and the headliner wrapped in black, the inserts in the doors black leather like my moms old 04 3.5 rl had, and putting in brand new tan front seats. I found charcoal interior, its just a matter of stripping the fucking car with no dash and one civic seat, drive to georgia to get it. Put it into my car in the hotel parking lot or whatever, throw the civic seat in the dumpster and drive home with charcoal shit. Just for some charcoal shit.
If i had it shipped, id have some shadetree send me the wrong stuff, take it out wrong and break it, forget to send me the charcoal seatbelts, or numerous other mistakes. some shit for sure would be forgotten so fugg it. Ill just retint my front drivers and passanger door windows flash light to see me and be done with it .
haha
give me time though, now that i have my own place i can take all the time and space i need to finish the body and paint the right way.
Im glad i did the wheels the body color i have. I really forget sometimes how good it looks when its cleaned up. I mean it looks like freddy krugers face right now, but in a few months.....
does anyone on here have a picture of what some brand new tl, or rl seats look like? Im contemplating just having all the pillars and the headliner wrapped in black, the inserts in the doors black leather like my moms old 04 3.5 rl had, and putting in brand new tan front seats. I found charcoal interior, its just a matter of stripping the fucking car with no dash and one civic seat, drive to georgia to get it. Put it into my car in the hotel parking lot or whatever, throw the civic seat in the dumpster and drive home with charcoal shit. Just for some charcoal shit.
If i had it shipped, id have some shadetree send me the wrong stuff, take it out wrong and break it, forget to send me the charcoal seatbelts, or numerous other mistakes. some shit for sure would be forgotten so fugg it. Ill just retint my front drivers and passanger door windows flash light to see me and be done with it .
#71
OMFG!!!!!!! Thats what the hell I'm talking bout. That shit is tight!!!! Are you going to camber the back in alittle, or roll/slight pull? Damn, once you get the body and paint done, it going to be proably the most badass VIP style'd 1st gen TL......ever. Damn, I think I need to post some updated pics of my car too, lol.
#72
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DiegosAnotherR1
OMFG!!!!!!! Thats what the hell I'm talking bout. That shit is tight!!!! Are you going to camber the back in alittle, or roll/slight pull? Damn, once you get the body and paint done, it going to be proably the most badass VIP style'd 1st gen TL......ever. Damn, I think I need to post some updated pics of my car too, lol.
#73
Originally Posted by Colt45
which side do you like better, the one that pops out more, or the one where i could tuck if i wanted to?
#75
B A N N E D
Thread Starter
when you mentioned that car i didnt even need to see it.. Thats one of my fav cars also..
the only thing i dont like about the passanger side is with the setup i have, and the adjustment i have, in order for it to be that flush id have literally no or positive camber on the rear wheels. I just think it may look goofy.
I think with the stock side (the wide one) i can put the lower control arms on it and get the camber angle slightly more and they would fit the same.. When i put the coilovers lower the tires do tuck up in there. Its kinda hard to tell since the fuckin fender looks like king kong was playing golden tee on it.
The side with the prelude shit on there (the one on the passanger side) already has a 10mm spacer on it so the centercap fits on. without it the axle nut is too close to it. Im really wishing i did more offset. But whatev. With all of the adjustment arms, you are able to clear WAY MORE wheel.
i mean jesus christ man, i have a -4mm offset with stock hubs and thats all the worse it is. with a 215 tire on there it would work as is no problem.
Most of that clearance came solely from the spc extreme upper control arm. But keep in mind when you put that negative camber in, the toe goes IN in the rear. You need the toe adjustment arms to fix that, otherwise the car wiggles when you hit bumps and its very unstable in the rain. Then the lower control arms will just make me be able to pretty much extend the wheelbase along with the upper ones and toe. So perhaps with the lower arms on, i can pull the camber out at the top all the way, then lentghen the lower arm to get that camber angle and flushness, then correct the toe.
Mad scientist type shit.. ill have to seriously take it out and get some pictures of it and make a real decision. I cant imagine how it will handle though.. no fuckin tire on there at all basicly, and the suspension is prettymuch as solid and as balanced as you could get.im sure it will be insane.
Ill keep ya's posted.. juss remember who pioneered this particular fab on the chassis.
the only thing i dont like about the passanger side is with the setup i have, and the adjustment i have, in order for it to be that flush id have literally no or positive camber on the rear wheels. I just think it may look goofy.
I think with the stock side (the wide one) i can put the lower control arms on it and get the camber angle slightly more and they would fit the same.. When i put the coilovers lower the tires do tuck up in there. Its kinda hard to tell since the fuckin fender looks like king kong was playing golden tee on it.
The side with the prelude shit on there (the one on the passanger side) already has a 10mm spacer on it so the centercap fits on. without it the axle nut is too close to it. Im really wishing i did more offset. But whatev. With all of the adjustment arms, you are able to clear WAY MORE wheel.
i mean jesus christ man, i have a -4mm offset with stock hubs and thats all the worse it is. with a 215 tire on there it would work as is no problem.
Most of that clearance came solely from the spc extreme upper control arm. But keep in mind when you put that negative camber in, the toe goes IN in the rear. You need the toe adjustment arms to fix that, otherwise the car wiggles when you hit bumps and its very unstable in the rain. Then the lower control arms will just make me be able to pretty much extend the wheelbase along with the upper ones and toe. So perhaps with the lower arms on, i can pull the camber out at the top all the way, then lentghen the lower arm to get that camber angle and flushness, then correct the toe.
Mad scientist type shit.. ill have to seriously take it out and get some pictures of it and make a real decision. I cant imagine how it will handle though.. no fuckin tire on there at all basicly, and the suspension is prettymuch as solid and as balanced as you could get.im sure it will be insane.
Ill keep ya's posted.. juss remember who pioneered this particular fab on the chassis.
#78
colt,
I am looking into the rear swaybar mod and have noticed that u had your bushings near the middle of the bar. I have a 98 3.2TL, looked at my original bushing locations and noticed that they appear different from where you have yours set up. Also, I am looking to just use the stock arm to connect the bar to. You said it was a direct bolt on for the 96 Accord and in your pictures look like you modded it. I don't want to buy something and have to send it back, so was just making sure that its direct bolt on. Thanks
I am looking into the rear swaybar mod and have noticed that u had your bushings near the middle of the bar. I have a 98 3.2TL, looked at my original bushing locations and noticed that they appear different from where you have yours set up. Also, I am looking to just use the stock arm to connect the bar to. You said it was a direct bolt on for the 96 Accord and in your pictures look like you modded it. I don't want to buy something and have to send it back, so was just making sure that its direct bolt on. Thanks