Colt45

As a couple of you know I've been in the midst of a buildup for a bit.

Well finally the parts are starting to roll in. I'll work on getting some pictures of the process here in a bit.

ive got

-Revalved, shortened custom koni yellow struts for a 96-98 accord. (front and rear)
-Ground control 900-250-375 (375lb) front springs
-Ground control 1000-250-450 (450lb) rear springs(1.5in. longer)
-Ground control 7 inch threaded collars(so the car sits where i want it)
-Ground control custom bumpstops
-work vsxx 19x9 -12mm offset rear(low disk)
-work vsxx 19x8.5 38mm offset front(high disk)
-falken fk452 215 35 19 tires
-JDM inspire rain window guards
-Tinted windows (limo), 50% whole windsheild
-98 honda prelude rear wheel bearing assemblys
-98 honda prelude rear rotors
-96 accord suspension techniques 23mm rear swaybar

The rear wheels should arrive within the next 3 weeks. Everything else is sitting in my guest room waiting for the temps outside to drop below la amistad slave ship temps.

Im awaiting the sale of my 240 in another week also and i will have the funds to pay the painter.

Complete respray midnight blue metallic. 20mm rear fender pull, no dents. Jet black top and pillars from the windows up. Satin black window moldings(instead of chrome)

Ill keep you all updated as the progress goes. Just figured id participate since some of you are very interested in my projects.

Go90go

So the sway did fit. I have had 2 separate chances to look at a 97 Accord, but I keep forgetting. How are the re-valved shocks working out for you? We used to do re-valved Bilsteins for the 3G Accords. BTW, I'm still in shock about that -12mm offset!!

~Cheers~

Colt45

no i just went out on a whim and ordered the rear swaybar. I have no idea if it fits or not yet..

Heh..

As far as the rain guards. they just snap on like go said. I took them back off because i need some stickey tape or adhesive on them before i go driving around with them on there.


The rear offset is pretty rediculous indeed. Id assume it will have like a 4 inch rear lip or larger. Should be pretty fly.

im waiting on the rear springs from ground control, but i have the tracking numbers. Should be able to tell you all about the suspension before long. Id assume with what ive got, it will be an extremely agressive setup.

Colt45

well i hope the swaybar works. I just ordered a 21mm suspension techniques one.

Im pretty certian i can make it work.

Id assume it will be in by next week. So ill prolly do the koni's, springs, bumpstops, rear swaybar, next wednesday or so...

Shit i forgot I also got ....

-SPC Fully adjustable rear upper control arms
-SPC Fully adjustable front upper ball joints


Once the rear wheels come in. Ill dissassemble them, paint the centers midnight blue metallic, swap the low disk to the rear -12mm 9 inch wide barrel. Put the high disk center on the front 38mm 8.5 inch barrel. Then install the prelude hubs, prelude rotors, and front camber kits.

I figure with the front being such a mild offset at the 38 where as the rear is at the -12, i can pull all the negative camber off the front wheels to make the front look flush. Then with the rear i will give it more negative camber if needed with the adjustable upper control arms..

Look out dudes, this car should be insane here in another month.. Disgusting to think how much this is all costing though.. Just another fine example of someone who likes the styling of the car.

I still need to buy new headlights, and taillights and paint, and charcoal interior.

Ill take some pics of shit today for you all.

triggerc

Hrm, I definitely don't have that rubber seal on the rain guards, i guess i'll have to make due without the seals, hopefully it'll still work

LDH

Does the prelude rear hub and bearing bolt on? Thats pretty interesting if it does. I never even knew there were oem window visors for the TL, I always wondered how it would work with frame less windows.

Colt45

yep. Abs gear lined right up. Id assume the car has identical suspension to the accord. They just put those wheel bearings on it to extend the wheelbase 64mm total.

triggerc

really? I thought we had double wishbones in the back and front while the accords only had them in the front.

Colt45

alright heres pictures. sorry ive just been busy as shit.

access window visors, access spoiler, ua3 jdm side markers, 2% tint all windows, 50% entire windshield. 50mm srr steering wheel spacer. smoked front marker lights

Colt45

Heres the rest


ERS part number for rear springs 10 inch long*1000* 2.5 inch id*250*400lb *400*

To show without fully assembling them how much shorter the struts are and how the longer spring takes the slop out of it. (typically the normal springs just fall out when the car is jacked up, and bounce around on ground controls. These will be fully compressed when the car is jacked up, not to mention the LARGE rear swaybar set on the super stiff adjustment will keep enough tension to 3 wheel going up curbs and ripping turns hard)


SPC extreme upper control arms. As you can see they are fully adjustable over and under stock. The center hexagonal piece im holding onto i may mill about 1/2 inch from if i cant take the camber out i need to fit an extreme offset and fitment in the rear.(nevermind my grit ass arm in half the shot, i was trying to hold the strut bar after it fell between my legs while i took the pic and it didnt turn out well)

Eibach ERS bumpstops trimmed


A shot of the prelude hub and prelude rotor to show how much less height the hat has. The tl ones are nearly 2x as tall.


Prelude timken rear wheel bearing/hub assembly*removes 32mm from the wheelbase on each side*




Fully custom suspension. 400lb rear 10 inch eibach ers springs, 325lb 8 inch front eibach ers springs, shortened revalved accord koni yellows, prelude wheelbearings, prelude rotors, eibach ers road race bumpstops(trimmed to 31mm), custom ground control 7 inch threaded perches for koni yellow, spc fully adjustable extreme rear upper control arms, legend type 2 strut bar, (not pictured still in mail being shipped function & form prelude front and rear ball bearing upper pillow mounts, spc fully adjustable front extreme camber ball joints, suspension techniques 21mm 96 accord rear adjustable swaybar),




Falken fk452 225 35 19 front and 215 35 19 rear (yes im running wider on the front due to weight over the front wheels and road quality in ohio). With the 38 it will be flush still. The rear will be severely stretched and the lip should sit perfectly flush with the fender with like 3.5 degrees of negative camber and a 3.5 inch drop.

Work vsxx 19x8.5 38mm offset front(rears in mail and not arrived from japan yet, 19x9 -12mm offset ultra low disk) *barrels still need to be polished since they were used and slightly curbed, rivets removed and wheel dissasembled to be colormatched to midnight blue metallic, rivets being anodized gold*



Srr 50mm spacer,*removed purple anodizing with easy off still need to polish it and the steering wheel better*

Colt45

Also note i had to trim about 12mm from the front 7 inch perches to make sure the strut could fully travel down. I used a metal bandsaw and then used a file to make sure the edges were smoothe with no burs. With the circlips on the lowest slot on the front, and the collars installed, I can raise the perches to the top of the shock tube if necessary.This will totally solve the issues of needing to jack the car up and swap front to rears like done before in a few other peoples write ups. The collars are 7 inch ones and cost me 20 dollars each from ground control.

Im using a little stiffer spring in the front than the kit comes with. Seeing how these konis are MUCH stiffer than the usual konis, and the car already incorperates at least a 30mm front antiroll bar on the 3.2 model i have, I dont need it any stiffer to create understeer. My driving style tends to be on the extreme side with SNAP oversteer as a main interest.

The car with the rear swaybar, the size of the wheelbase, the dampening and spring rates, along with some custom bushings im working on should handle rediculous. Honestly theres nothing else you could buy for the suspension after i fabricate a strut bar using the legend bar as a template. I prolly could have gotten canovers, but i get frustrated on the way home from work some days and find myself ripping exit ramps and hairpins, so i want something that handles regardless of what kind of car it is.

After i recieve the rear wheels in the mail, i will fit them on the car, take the car to a road race shop and have a full performance alignment and corner balancing done on it. I plan to set the front camber at like 0 or so due to the mere +38mm offset 8.5 wheel. I figure with it set there, and a mild pull on the front fenders, the wheels will be flush in front and back.

Once its all set up, ill drive it home, take the wheels off it, put donuts on it, and the bodywork and paint begins hopefully.

I planned on selling my 240 and paying for paint, but i managed to trade it for a 95 gsr 4 door for a daily driver. Now that the tl wont be my primary driver car, i can put it on jackstands, strip the full interior out, swap the interior to charcoal and possibly get into doing that 6 speed legend trans swap perhaps.

ill keep you posted. Sorry that it took me a while to post pics. No worries about any bluffs here though. When i say i am doing something, i do it.


Lemme know what you dudes think.

Colt45

Well i got everything on the rear accept the upper pilow mounts and swaybar. On 1/4 turn back from full stiff it handles rediculous. I can yank the wheel at 75 and it goes without snapping back. Locked in 2nd entering a 20mph 90 degree turn i take my line going in under power, the front starts to push(i am swapping the front to the 375lb's and the konis as we speak), i back off the gas, immediately the rear comes out, i steer out, pound on the gas again and it goes.


I cant imagine what it will feel like with the rest of the parts.

The stock strut/normal ground control rates are a fucking joke. This stuff on just the rear handles comparable to my ctr with full spherical bearings. Just wait till i fab more shit,.hehehehehehehehehe.

With the extreme camber arms it gave me at least another 1.5 inches of clearance on top.

I am now proudly rocking DEMON CAMBER on the rear also. at least -3-4 degrees. looks sick. I cant wait to get the wheels on here. Its looking like i may be able to get even a 19x10 at this rate.

Ken1997TL

Whoa... this is great stuff

Keep us updated

LDH

I want that suspension for my accord! Revalved konis with custom ground controls has always been my favorite combo. I can't wait to see the rest of the parts thrown on the car. It makes me want to get another 1g TL and start modding again.

Colt45

Well i got it all on there. The front is raised up as high as it will go. I actually ended up using a 500 lb rear spring, and a 400lb front.


I literally was dicking with it to get the ride height correct since like 7. Im beat and feel like ive been beaten with phone books.


Ill talk to you dudes tomorrow about everything.

Its all on though. All im waiting on is the rear swaybar and pillow mounts and shit.

The car handles bizarre. I was doing like 80 on the way to dinner and jerked lanes pretty hard and it just goes. With the rear on all the way stiff and the 500's it rides just like i wanted it to.. With the 400s in the rear it was still a little caddilacish for my tastes.

Anyhow you nail it and it does not weight transfer. it breaks the tires loose big time now. But thats prolly cause my motor is not stock also.

jesus im tired im out dudes. pics tomorrow for you

Colt45

96 ACCORD SUSPENSION TECHNIQUES REAR SWAYBAR FITS FINE.


Works with no problems DIRECT BOLT ON.


I have my rears set on all the way stiff, 500lb 10 inch rear springs, and the 21mm rear swaybar on. Car rides solid as FUCK.

I challange anyone out there to a handling duel. Next items im modifing is the steering rack, front bushings, and strut towers.

The car feels amazing, braking, handling, turn in, everything.


FINAL SETUP

10'' 500LB 2.5 id (1000.250.500) Rear springs
7" 450LB 2.5 id (700.250.450) Front springs
Koni Yellow Accord *96* struts, shortened and revalved.
SPC upper rear extreme rear control arms. Adjusted at full short. -3.5 degrees camber
ST rear 21mm swaybar for 96 accord


Now to put the front stuff on. Id assume ill do that when i put the rear hubs on and have the car aligned and corner balanced. Im also going to try to get rid of all of the rubber bushings and links for spherical bearings and heim joints since i have this gsr to drive now.

Pics when its light enough to take pics and i have time to do so.

triggerc

Would the swaybar fit a 2.5 as well?

TLin401

your car looks crazy!!

Colt45

thanks

Honestly it looks pretty weak now to the way it will look with a 5 inch rear lip 19 inch wheel instead of some wheels i had laying around.

Not to mention i have the ride height dialed in flawless now so it looks better than it did in those pics. The Paint and dents kill the car though. Thats the next big step. Im trying to get all the odds and ends tied up before i do that stuff. I dont want to be climbing in and out of it with nice paint.

Far as ANYTHING for a 2.5 i have NO idea. Id assume its the same. I mean i dont really know anything about them nor do i reasearch them. This is all 3.2 stuff. If i had a 2.5 im sure id figure out how to do whatever to them.

desired_speeds

krazy!

Colt45

Look at the dramatic difference in the area above the tire with the SPC control arms installed and not even adjusted as far as they will go. Easily fit another 15mm off of the offset or 2 inch wider wheel. So 17x10 or +27mm offset instead of 17x8 and +42


Another pic of the clearance with the stock upper control arm. Notice if i was running any other offset than a ET +42 it would be dangerously close and rub on the quarter.




This quarter was just as bad almost as go90go's. I bashed it out with a body hammer haha. Ive already got a sectioned quarter off a junk car to weld in when i get time to. The next step on this car is fixing the bodywork which is cake for me to do.. Notice on this pic the area from the top of the tire to the bottom of the quarter. Basicly the room to fit a larger wheel or tire in there before it becomes an issue with rubbing. This pic is WITH the STOCK upper control arm in the rear.

All pics show new stance.




New Stance

Colt45

Heres the only pic of the fronts i have on. This is adjusted all the way up. The ride height is as HIGH as it will go right now. I needed a spring compressor to put tension on the front 7 inch 450lb springs to get them this high. This is at the top of the strut also. The only way id assume you could go higher is go to 8 inch long springs instead of 7's. Then you will need to put more tension on the spring to make it fit. Honestly i kinda wish i had 7 inch 500s for the front now. It still feels like it sags in the front a little. Im sure if it didnt though it would just be understeer pushing the wheels. This car has OUTRAGEOUS UNDERSTEER STOCK. I mean we are talking all of these mods and it still has a tad of understeer unless its on all the way stiff. Im contemplating disconnecting the front swaybar. But then id loose some of the front stability.


Heres the mounting area. Tried to get it as best as i could. (nevermind my bald ass street tires, i have r compounds in my garage, and the 19's on the work wheels in my kitchen haha)

Rear swaybar location. (I have found adjustable rear lower control arms available for a prelude. I think im going to get them for toe adjustment.)


D O P E !!!! Tension, and all the garbage taken off.

T U R D!!!!!!!

Pre install setup. Garbage! Shit flopping around. Blown ass struts, shitty spring rates, stripped threads. NOT SAFE!


Stock turds vs SPC

Notice the center threaded section of the arm. I am going to mill about 1/2 inch from it so i can go even more if necessary. Ill prolly have to notch the front mounting area for the trailing arm though. The more negative camber you go, the more the toe goes out. I need to get some of the toe out as is. This pic is before i put the 500's on it, and with the stock pillow mounts.

More illustration of the clearance with the camber arms.

Colt45

I also had to take a 5/8 coolant hose and cut a slot in it. I fit it around the swaybar where the exhaust passses through. I used 2 5/8 hose clamps to hold it on, then wrapped it in black heatwrap.

In this post i list a lot of different spring rates. I tried like 3 or 4 different sets. I ended up using the 450lb fronts and 500 rears. I wish i had gone 500 fronts and 650 rears though. Dont hold your breath though. I could see my ass doing them in the future.

LDH

Megan racing makes the rear lower arms for the 90-97 accord, so you can adjust toe.

96teeluxury

makes me want a ua3 so i can get all these parts from other hondas.
it looks great man, you said your tires were letting loose when are you rolling the thing on a dyno i wanna see some numbers.

the clearance for your wheels is ridiculous too. amazing amazing work really my applaud to you great work

Colt45

word thanks ldh.

I can find them cake now.

I thought that the smaller link lower control arm looked like it had adjustment on it.

I dont remember saying my car broke loose on a dyno?

But yea, it has snap oversteer now. And it makes decent power. I mean its 11:1 or 11.5:1 or so. Then again i've kinda lost interest in making power with it though, i just want it to handle and break crazy. Then ill worry about more power.

Ken1997TL

I'll have to look into the rear swaybar mod

96teeluxury

i was asking if you were going to dyno it because you said your wheels were spinning out easily

Colt45

ahh. Well the whole motor is built. No i dont plan on dyno'ing it because i more or less just am not interested.

I mean its quick, but i used to have 4-500whp turbo hondas, and 220+whp all motor hondas. This car is nothing comparable to those.

Its just freshened up with parts i got my hands on easily. And since i do my own work it didnt cost me anything but parts.

96teeluxury

nice, seems like you really love the hondas.
you ever consiter going to rwd? (nissan)

Colt45

I just signed the title over on my s13 coupe today.

I am not really into them anymore.

And ive had a 93 lx mustang with a built 351 and spray.

I honestly personally enjoy balanced high rpm fwd cars more.

I mean, dont get me wrong rwd is def better for a few things, but as far as my driving style. I enjoy what i have more.


Im building a race car now also. 93 civic dx hatchback, severely gutted. 750lbs rolling chassis, no cage, no dash, lexan....

b18c5 type r block
darton solid deck ductile iron sleves (bored to 86mm)*stock is 81mm*
manley connecting rods
prodrive oil pump gears
erl main girdle
JE ~14.0:1 custom made pistons for large lift and duration cam(still need correct specs to order)
Scat 92mm stroker crank

Alaniz competition series b16a head
toda valvetrain
toda vtec killer cams
twm itb's
Hytech 3 inch race header. pulse tuned for cam and compression setup.
550 cc rc injectors
accel gen 7 dfi

gsr transmission
ats 5.0 final drive
ats close ratio gear set


Thats just what we have so far. Its my car and all of my parts, a friend just bought some of the parts off me and we are going together to build a race car out of it. Should be about a 2.5 liter 14:1 compression tuned on vp c16 race gas.

We have full 5 lug, apexi n1 pro circuit suspension with 16k rears 10k fronts, asr 32mm race swaybar, jdm recaro seats, all of the chomolly tubing from safe drives for a full fia certified 12 point with nascar sidebar rollcage.

Thats pretty much what im into besides my tl. Its a LONG term project. but we have a guest bedroom filled with parts. Most of the parts came off my friends yellow type r turbo that was on the cover of sports compact car a few years ago. It had a FULLY BUILT from ground up turbo type r motor in it and competed in the ultimate street car shootout. made 470whp on pumpgas. Kinda ricey tho, but we ragged him enough for it. yellow headlights and shit.

TLin401

Every time I look at this ride the more I wonder wow its looking good but I got one question I thought the darker the tint got the harder it was to see outside so if you have 2% how can you see?

Colt45

well i used to have it on the front windows but its just on the back now after some dui deal i got into last year. Once im not on their top watch list ill put it back on the front. Its solid black indeed. I am used to it. Heres when it was all solid black..

DiegosAnotherR1

damn, looks soooooo clean in those pics. hurry up with the body work and paint, lol. Can't wait to see what the vs-xx's look like on there

Colt45

ive got some crazy shit up my sleeve. Some may dig it some may not..

Just wait.

Inspired[RUS]

Wow, you've got the NSX front brake rests?

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...8/DSCF1344.jpg

Is it really so good? As I know brake pads are the same (NSX, UA2, UA3), but NSX rests have two-pistons, right? So what modification of NSX is it from, were did you get it?

Colt45

yes theres SIGNIFICANT difference going from a 14mm rotor to a 22mm(i believe) rotor. The thin stock units fade, warp, and basicly are designed for a car with 1/3 the weight. The thick rotor off the legend is the same thickness the nsx uses.

All integra, type r, legend, tl, nsx, and i believe accords use the 502 front pad. However the front caliper design and rotor thickness greatly differ from vehicle to vehicle. Thats where the braking quality comes from.

There is NO modification necessary to the na1 caliper. Its a direct bolton.

Inspired[RUS]

Not quite agree. The main difference (if we're talking about most brake power) comes from the main brake cylinder diameter and capacity of vacuum booster, and only after that - number of pistons, rotor thickness and so on.
But, let's return to the question at hand - what do you think should do 2,5TL owners (who have for-holes weels)? We cann't just put on NSX or two-pistons legend caliper and rotors, couse there are some differences in rotors.

Colt45

i have no idea ANYTHING about 2.5 tl's. I have a 3.2 tl. Im sorry.

The nsx, the integra, and all of the cars i listed use a 1 inch piston master cylinder. The boosters are slightly different on each model, but the nsx one is actually smaller than the tl one. I had an nsx one on my CTR and it made no difference. I had the master cylinder to put onto my ua, but opted to put it onto my eg hatchback instead because its identical performance just the brake lines come out in different spots. So rather than bending new hardlines i just kept what i had.

So once again, in all of the models i listed, since they use large honda vac hydroboosters and a 1 inch piston master cylinder, the only difference is the thicker rotor and caliper design and purportioning valve to control how much more fluid they get. Most of my cars have wilwood purportioning valves already though. Not the ua, there was no need for it. It brakes just as good as my 93 integra with 97 porsche 911 turbo brakes does.

LDH

What is the stock diameter for the 3.2 and 2.5 front brakes? NSX is 11.1" I believe, so my theory for the 2.5 would be swap over the nsx calipers and use the 94-97 accord v6 rotors which are 11.1" since these still use the old hub over rotor design. But this is just a guess since I don't have a 2.5TL to mess with.