I did a search for this but didn't find anything concrete, and I thought it might be an interesting discussion.

I've always read that it is better to keep the factory oil in for several thousand miles as it has a slightly different formulation to help the engine break in better?

Or is it better to change it and get all of the metal pieces out that inevitably shear off, wear off, etc. from a new engine?

Are there any brand differences on these recommendations?

 

You'll get about a million different pieces of advice on this (just like with "how do I break my car in?"). My car is a lease so I just follow what the maintenance-minder recommends....

 

Follow your owner's manual. If it does not say anything in there, check with the service manager at your dealer.

Reason for those suggestions is b/c if you follow a different schedule or follow internet advice, your dealer can refuse warranty service for not following manufacturer's recommendations. It doesn't happen much, but it does happen. That's why you should either check your manual or check with the dealer...

 

Lots of differing information and opinions on this one. It used to be felt that you changed it after the first 1000 miles, then 2000 miles after that, then every 3000 miles. However, in more recent years, most manufacturers want you to wait until the "normal" number of miles between oil changes has gone by for your first one.

Around five or six years ago, there was quite a number of discussions on this site about when to do the first change on the 3G TL. Several of our members did oil analysis's on their cars and one member, who is well versed, found that the factory fill tended to show a noticeable degree of breakdown around the 3000 mile mark. Road Rage is the member and there was another member who, as I recall, backed his findings up.

So perhaps as a decent rule of thumb, you might want to get the factory fill out of your crankcase around 3000 miles, then move into your normal mileage/time intervals. That's what I did.

 

I would change it in the first 1,000 miles and then regular intervals after that.

I've seen those UOAs and the factory fill is severely sheared with tons of insoluables by 3,000. By 1,000 99% of the break-in is complete so you might as well change it while the oil still has a little life left in it and get all of the metals and other "junk" out of there.

Factory fill showed higher than normal amounts of moly. It's not known if it's from the assembly process or if the factory uses a high moly oil for break-in. To be safe it should be swapped out with an oil with high moly content for the next interval but stay away from aftermarket moly additives.

On a side note, I switched to synthetic around 10,000 miles and never looked back.

 

The 3G TL's break-in oil was supposed to be kept in for a full cycle because it had a higher molybdenum content (amongst other additives).

 

 

+1, i change mine every 3-4k after

 

yup first 1000

 

This is what Road Rage and the other fellow (don't recall his handle) said. That the factory fill did contain a higher level of moly to aid in break in.

 

This was the prime "argument", or topic, that was carried on during those discussions. Whether or not to leave the factory fill in the crankcase for the full MID cycle or to get it out a bit earlier. The consensus of those who had had the analysis done (and these are knowledgeable people) was to NOT go the full cycle time on the factory fill. They even posted their findings for proof.

For an engine in a street car that is to be driven in a normal fashion, the most wear it is ever going to experience in a short time is during the initial break-in period. The contact surfaces on engine parts, such as crankshaft bearing surfaces, camshaft lobes and bearing surfaces, and on and on, may look to be highly machined and polished and extremely smooth... and they are. However, if you ever look at these parts under a microscope, you will see little peeks and valleys looking something like waves and generally all at the same angle. There are asperities and are a product of the machining process as the metal is cut, and pulled. The break-in oil has a higher level of moly to help fill these asperity valleys for the purpose of a smoother and better "mating" of metal contact areas. During the early phases of this, more heat is generated as well as an increased change of scaring of contact faces. This is why you want to do a gentle and gradual break-in as opposed to a hard break-in on a street engine.

Over time during the break-in, the asperities will be honed down and a solid mating surface will result. Getting the factory fill out when the mentioned analysis's indicated is probably the best time as it will not only be breaking down more quickly then but there will also be a fair amount of debris (asperities) that will come out with the drain.

 

Usually every 3.5 to 5k miles for me

 

The moly will have done it's job easily in 1,000 miles. Honestly, most of the break-in is done in the first hour. Moly can help with proper cylinder wall break-in and I don't recommend running without it for break-in.

As for the other additives I'm not sure what you're talking about. Calcium or ZDDP?

You have to decide for yourself where the engineers lose and marketing wins. They're never going to recommend changing at 1,000 miles at first. No one wants to be bothered with an oil change that soon and it's a safe assumption it won't significantly hurt engine life to go the full interval. But if you're car enthusiast and you want to have it last as long and run as good as possible I would change it out early.

The J32/35 is not some magical engine, if follows the same rules as everything else. It's not the only engine that benefits from moly and a short first change interval.

 

I agree. There is some debate as to when an engine is fully broken in. I wanted to have the oil changed on my Accord at the first one thousand kilometers, and the service manager steadfastly recommended not to do so. The oil was changed at five thousand kilometers and analyzed at an independent lab. I also had the oil analyzed at eight thousand kilometers and again at ten thousand. Judging by the lab results and the way the car performed, it was at this time when the engine was fully broken in.

Follow the advice of the service manager. If you like, you can most likely switch to a synthetic at 10 000 kilometers, or about 6000 miles.



Terry

 

But on the same token dont you think the guys that engineered the motor know what works the best after testing? Do you think they would tell you to do something that would shorten the life of the motor?

 

Yes, I think there's very good reason to believe that. But that was not my point. I was referring to discussions which took place in the earlier life of the 3G TL by some very knowledgeable members. I respect their postings and their findings. They were answering questions about when to change the factory fill and break-in and a few other things.

My mention of the asperities which exist on the finely machined moving parts of an engine was made to give reason for break-in procedures as well as oil and when to change out the factory fill.

I do understand and believe your point is valid.

 

Thats exactly my point. Sometimes the recommendations are coming from marketing and not from the engineers.