What's the bare minimum for tread depth?

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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
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What's the bare minimum for tread depth?

I'm down to 2/32" in the front, and 3/32" in the back. 44-45k miles on these Goodyear Allegras ($75/tire) on the old Saturn.

Can I rotate them and get another 5-7k out of 'em?

I'm going to get a new set of tires off someone's car, but I don't want to put 'em on immediately if I don't have to.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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2/32" to me sounds like they're done for. For many states, that's the legal "wear" limit. I see you're also from Sac, I wouldn't run those on the highway when it's raining.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 09:04 PM
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Don't dick around with tires, they are the most important part of your car.

Those tires are done for, replace them.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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I've run 'em that low before, but you really should replace 'em...
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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time for new tires. we have all probably driven on bald tires but its safer to have something on them
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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Those are "fake" goodyears anyways, get rid of them... those are only available at wal-mart or sears.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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You would feel shitty if someone in your family drove it and got into an accident.

Change them out.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 07:11 AM
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the bare min is not 2/32 Mike.. change those puppies out.. jump on that deal u mentioned to me last night... jesal just gave u the ultimate reason why you should...
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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I think the lowest they allow is 3/32" before you must change them.

More importantly, if they are that low, why risk your safety.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Wear indicators are at 2/32's for a reason:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=51

The Law

According to most states' laws, tires are legally worn out when they have worn down to 2/32" of remaining tread depth. To help warn drivers that their tires have reached that point, tires sold in North America are required to have indicators molded into their tread design called "wear bars" which run across their tread pattern from their outside shoulder to inside shoulder. Wear bars are designed to visually connect the elements of the tire's tread pattern and warn drivers when their tires no longer meet minimum tread depth requirements.
But it goes on to say...

Common Sense

However, as a tire wears it's important to realize that the tire's ability to perform in rain and snow will be reduced. With 2/32" of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in the rain at highway speeds has been significantly reduced, and traction in snow has been virtually eliminated.

If rain and wet roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32" of remaining tread depth. Since water can't be compressed, you need enough tread depth to allow rain to escape through the tire's grooves. If the water can't escape fast enough, your vehicle's tires will be forced to hydroplane (float) on top of the water, losing traction.
I haven't always obeyed the law or followed common sense...
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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If they look worn enough that you have to ask if they're still safe to drive on, it's a good indicator it's time for new ones!

I'd definitely throw on a new set.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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Actually, let me put it into terms you might better relate to:

If you were running low on oil and it was dirty, would you try to squeeze another 10,000 miles or six months out of the little bit you had left, or would you just call it done and change the oil?

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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^

Oh the horror!!
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Crazy Sellout
^

Oh the horror!!
I tried to be easy on him and didn't even suggest the oil in the example wasn't synthetic! *GASP*
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Street Spirit
Actually, let me put it into terms you might better relate to:

If you were running low on oil and it was dirty, would you try to squeeze another 10,000 miles or six months out of the little bit you had left, or would you just call it done and change the oil?

Gee, that sounds like 500 miles after an oil change!

Anyway, I think I'm going to rotate the backs (3/32") to the front (2/32") and leave 'em there until the end of this month as I don't have time to deal with replacement tires. My mom says there's no grip issues at all on the freeway anyway, and my dad is fine with it too.

Few questions: a section of the front tires (not the edges specifically) is worn to 1/32" and not 2/32". Is this a result of an alignment problem or is it just normal wear from excessive turns to the right/left?

Also, I'm going to mount/dismount/balance these replacement (used) tires myself at the school shop. Can I reuse the valve stems?

And where can I get rid of the old tires?
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by SodaLuvr
Anyway, I think I'm going to rotate the backs (3/32") to the front (2/32") and leave 'em there until the end of this month as I don't have time to deal with replacement tires.
In the same amount of time it'll take you to jack up the car and rotate all the tires, a shop can have new ones mounted, balanced and installed (if you so desired). So it's really not much of a time issue.

Use a new valve stem.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:56 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SodaLuvr
Anyway, I think I'm going to rotate the backs (3/32") to the front (2/32") and leave 'em there until the end of this month as I don't have time to deal with replacement tires. My mom says there's no grip issues at all on the freeway anyway, and my dad is fine with it too.

Few questions: a section of the front tires (not the edges specifically) is worn to 1/32" and not 2/32". Is this a result of an alignment problem or is it just normal wear from excessive turns to the right/left?

Also, I'm going to mount/dismount/balance these replacement (used) tires myself at the school shop. Can I reuse the valve stems?

And where can I get rid of the old tires?
Ok... where to begin...

Just because your parents SAY it runs fine, really doesn't mean it IS fine. Beleive me, been there, done that, and blown a few tires thanks to my parents. Have them take it to an actual Tire shop and see what they'd say.

Few answers: it all depends on what you mean a section of the front tires. Be more specific if you can... I.E. is it PATCHING, or is the MIDDLE worn? As far as alignment, if you were to let your car go in a straight line, with the steering wheel as straight as possible, does it veer to the left or right? If so, then your alignment is off.

The last part, well I wouldn't bother, but if your a tightass, then so be it. Good luck.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 01:08 AM
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Tires could have been over inflated also if the sides are worn.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 01:09 AM
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A piece of the middle is worn...somehow.

Pressure is typically set 3 psi about recommended specs for longer life.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:25 AM
  #20  
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if u set the psi higher than it should be the middle of the tire will wear out faster and vice versa, as it is now riding on a smaller contact point vs if the tire was underinflated. you probably know already that setting the psi higher on the front wheels of a fwd car with understeer helps to lessen the understeer feeling somewhat.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #21  
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^^^^ Go with the recommended tire pressure, not 3psi higher for longer life . Because in reality, it gives you less life.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 10:19 AM
  #22  
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Your parents are idiots. You need to stop listening to them. If that means getting a job so you can pay for tires that are WAY past "ok" then go get one.

Jeezus, 2/32" and the tires are "okay"?
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 10:54 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mclarenf3387
Don't dick around with tires, they are the most important part of your car.

Those tires are done for, replace them.
Agreed.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #24  
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cheap bastard
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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Replacing the tires on a car doesn't take more than an hour. Especially if you call ahead and make sure they stock what you need. This isn't like putting off a timing belt for a few weeks so you can make other arrangements. Get it down to the garage and put some new rubber on that thing.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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I'm going to go ahead and see if I can get that guy to come down a bit more on his price for those tires. If I can get 'em for $100, perhaps I'll stop by this weekend to the Bay Area and pick them up, then install them the following week.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:53 PM
  #27  
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buy new ones !why risk your life if you put them on the wrong way they will vibtate and you will crash the right front must go on the same side so buying used how will you know which side they were on?
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 11:52 PM
  #28  
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Well, they only have 500 miles on them. I got the guy down to $100, so we'll see about it next week or so.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:17 AM
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Right now my tires are at 8/32" . When should I change them out without losing much traction? They are the OEM tires on an 06 Accord, and they're already down to that after only 13542km (as of today). OEM tires seem to suck.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:41 AM
  #30  
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I heard if you're picky about traction, 4/32"
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 08:15 AM
  #31  
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Why are you nickel and diming with tires? Dont be stupid, get new tires before you hurt someone
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by youngTL
Right now my tires are at 8/32" . When should I change them out without losing much traction? They are the OEM tires on an 06 Accord, and they're already down to that after only 13542km (as of today). OEM tires seem to suck.

if they suck so much why not just replace them asap
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 11:56 AM
  #33  
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if you get into an accident, and the cause was because of poor traction on your tires, you can be held liable I believe.
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 12:26 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by youngTL
Right now my tires are at 8/32" . When should I change them out without losing much traction? They are the OEM tires on an 06 Accord, and they're already down to that after only 13542km (as of today). OEM tires seem to suck.
Yeah, 4/32's are about the minimum for wet/snow traction even tho' the legal limit in my state is 2/32. You won't have to worry till you get below 6/32's.

FYI: New tires are usaually 10/32 to 11/32... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...skey.jsp#depth

I know that I should get new tires long before I do, but I like to squeeze every last penny worth out of my old tires... < / cheapbastard >
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by GreenMonster
Yeah, 4/32's are about the minimum for wet/snow traction even tho' the legal limit in my state is 2/32. You won't have to worry till you get below 6/32's.

FYI: New tires are usaually 10/32 to 11/32... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...skey.jsp#depth

I know that I should get new tires long before I do, but I like to squeeze every last penny worth out of my old tires... < / oldcheapbastard >
Fixed
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 04:59 PM
  #36  
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Gotta thank tirerack.com for this one:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...currentpage=51
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Sly Raskal
if you get into an accident, and the cause was because of poor traction on your tires, you can be held liable I believe.

I think you are right.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 03:03 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by GreenMonster
Yeah, 4/32's are about the minimum for wet/snow traction even tho' the legal limit in my state is 2/32. You won't have to worry till you get below 6/32's.

FYI: New tires are usaually 10/32 to 11/32... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...skey.jsp#depth

I know that I should get new tires long before I do, but I like to squeeze every last penny worth out of my old tires... < / cheapbastard >
Thanks, this is exactly what I wanted to know. Snow traction is what matters now. January. Canada. 'nuff said.
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