trouble with brakes....!!!! scared to rip her car apart :(
03-11-2009, 11:54 AM
#1
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trouble with brakes....!!!! scared to rip her car apart :(
well to begin with, i did search and didn't find anything and hence created a new thread. MODS please feel free to move the thread around.
2006 civic EX (girls car).....it has 42K miles on it.....
recently I have been hearing loud noises from her brakes, driver side front only....took it to the honda dealer and he said the brakes are gone, we need to replace everything.....
and i know the kind of BS the dealer gives.....so well am putting this post up for AZINE geniuses to save me money once again
1> while reversing out, there is a lot of whining. No metal to metal noise
2> while driving, there is metal to metal rubbing, some kind of grinding. its making that noise a lot, but if I brake the noise goes away, if I let go of the brake, the noise is back....
i took a look at her rotors and i see a little scratch developing, around 2 inches long, in a circular manner, on 1 part of the rotor.
what beats my logic is, if the brake pads were slimmed out, wont there be grinding when I brake, rather than grinding when I dont brake ???
I think the brake pad is like loose and rubbing against the rotor and when I brake the car does stop and the noise goes away, as it gets tightened by the calipers (i could be completely wrong).....
I am thinking or getting AKEBONO pro-act ceramic brake pads for all 4 sides on her car, and flushing out the old brake fluid with DOT4 (prolly MOTUL RBF600). Before I do that just wanted to know, if its required. Dont want to take her brakes and shit out coz if I screw anything up, HATE BEING ACCUSED and listening to all that
LOL....
Any help is highly appreciated.
2006 civic EX (girls car).....it has 42K miles on it.....
recently I have been hearing loud noises from her brakes, driver side front only....took it to the honda dealer and he said the brakes are gone, we need to replace everything.....
and i know the kind of BS the dealer gives.....so well am putting this post up for AZINE geniuses to save me money once again
1> while reversing out, there is a lot of whining. No metal to metal noise
2> while driving, there is metal to metal rubbing, some kind of grinding. its making that noise a lot, but if I brake the noise goes away, if I let go of the brake, the noise is back....
i took a look at her rotors and i see a little scratch developing, around 2 inches long, in a circular manner, on 1 part of the rotor.
what beats my logic is, if the brake pads were slimmed out, wont there be grinding when I brake, rather than grinding when I dont brake ???
I think the brake pad is like loose and rubbing against the rotor and when I brake the car does stop and the noise goes away, as it gets tightened by the calipers (i could be completely wrong).....
I am thinking or getting AKEBONO pro-act ceramic brake pads for all 4 sides on her car, and flushing out the old brake fluid with DOT4 (prolly MOTUL RBF600). Before I do that just wanted to know, if its required. Dont want to take her brakes and shit out coz if I screw anything up, HATE BEING ACCUSED and listening to all that
LOL.... Any help is highly appreciated.
Last edited by swoosh; 03-11-2009 at 11:57 AM.
03-11-2009, 02:54 PM
#2
you might have a sticky caliper so when you take it apart lube up the pins so they move freely. you dont have to change the fluid when you do the brake job but its good prevenative maintenance. you cant screw anything up unless you put the pads backwards or something lol.. ive seen that before. but its a pretty easy job all you need is a 12mm wrench for the calipers, 17mm wrench for the caliper bracket and a #3 phillips bit with an impact driver to take off the rotors. Good luck! dont forget when bleeding the brakes start farthest from the master cylinder and work ur way in.
03-11-2009, 03:28 PM
#3
Man of God.....
And besides that. Nothing tests a relationship like you fix'n the brakes one day. Then the car throws a tire on the freeway the next. You will know where you stand then! It happen to me once... Long long ago.. 
Yes, she did live. Don't see her anymore tho
So go for it!!!!
Yes, she did live. Don't see her anymore tho
So go for it!!!!
03-11-2009, 07:05 PM
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you might have a sticky caliper so when you take it apart lube up the pins so they move freely. you dont have to change the fluid when you do the brake job but its good prevenative maintenance. you cant screw anything up unless you put the pads backwards or something lol.. ive seen that before. but its a pretty easy job all you need is a 12mm wrench for the calipers, 17mm wrench for the caliper bracket and a #3 phillips bit with an impact driver to take off the rotors. Good luck! dont forget when bleeding the brakes start farthest from the master cylinder and work ur way in.
And besides that. Nothing tests a relationship like you fix'n the brakes one day. Then the car throws a tire on the freeway the next. You will know where you stand then! It happen to me once... Long long ago..
Yes, she did live. Don't see her anymore tho
So go for it!!!!
Yes, she did live. Don't see her anymore tho
So go for it!!!!
03-11-2009, 08:41 PM
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how would you rate a brake job (brake pads and fluid flush) on a difficulty level from 1-10 with 10 being shit tough.....just so you get an idea i have done by own air intake, trying to do a friends exhaust (headers to 3rd cat), did my own NEO car audio, done oil changes and tranny fluid change....
and thats only if u have a hard time getting some of the screws out.
03-12-2009, 12:56 AM
#7
Moderator
The 06+ Civics have a tendency to wear out brakes very quickly. I've heard that 25,000 miles or less is common in major metropolitan areas such as Southern California! 
Since there are grooves on the rotor, I would resurface or replace the front rotors with the brake job.
Brakes aren't difficult to do, but you will need the appropriate sockets in 1/2" drive size, 1/2" drive ratchet, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a c-clamp and an impact screwdriver.
The Akebono pads will come with a packet of Molykote. Apply that compound to the portion of the brake pad shim that contacts the caliper piston and the caliper "fingers." Get some synthetic caliper grease from the parts store and lubricate the caliper slide pins and the bores that they reside in.
Since there are grooves on the rotor, I would resurface or replace the front rotors with the brake job.
Brakes aren't difficult to do, but you will need the appropriate sockets in 1/2" drive size, 1/2" drive ratchet, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a c-clamp and an impact screwdriver.
The Akebono pads will come with a packet of Molykote. Apply that compound to the portion of the brake pad shim that contacts the caliper piston and the caliper "fingers." Get some synthetic caliper grease from the parts store and lubricate the caliper slide pins and the bores that they reside in.
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03-12-2009, 01:56 AM
#8
S E L L
Although replacing the rotors might be the way to go. If you've already got grooves cut into the rotor, they might be too deep to resurface the rotor within specs. 
03-12-2009, 02:50 AM
#9
As much as I do all my own repairs, I don't recommend anyone doing them if they are not comfortable with the process. If it's something you are not comfortable with, then take it to a professional.
The noise you are hearing is the "squealer". A piece of metal on the brake pad which tells you it's time to attend to the brakes. When you apply the brakes the squealer is still making contact with the rotor, but is designed to make a noise when only a light contact. It's not surprising the noise goes away when you apply the brakes.
IF, and ONLY IF, you decide to do the brakes, its a relatively easy process as others have mentioned.
Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Do not trust the jack to hold the car. Take off the front wheels (loosen before jacking). You will most likely see a bracket holding the brake line on the control arm. You may need to remove this. Then remove the entire cradle which includes the caliper assembly. Offhand I would imagine two 17 mm bolts are being used to hold the cradle in place. Use wire or rope to hold it aside. I think Honda use two 8 mm philips screws that hold the rotor to the the hub assembly. These need to be removed and are usually a bitch to to loosen. Especially if the hub assembly is free wheeling. An impact works great for this. Remove the rotor and set aside for resurfacing. Once you have both rotors resurfaced then reinstall on the hub assembly. Replace the mounting cradle. I have no idea what the torque specification is.
Once the cradle is re-installed, there are two bolts behind it which hold the caliper assembly in place. I think they are 12 mm. Loosen but do not remove entirely. Once both bolts are loosened, then remove the bottom bolt entirely. This will allow you to SWING the caliper assemble upwards and clearing the rotor entirely. Remove the old pads and replace with new ones. Most likely, however, the brake piston will have extended and once the new pads are in place the assembly will not clear the rotor. Take a large C-clamp and use it to compress the piston. Most likely the assembly will have a dust cover with a relief valve underneath. This is a two handed affair, as you will need to tighten the C-clamp with one hand while simultaneously opening the relief valve SLIGHTLY with you other hand. Once the piston is compressed, the IMMEDIATELY tighten the relief valve. If you don't, then air will enter the system and it will need to be bled. Put the new pads back in the assembly and place on the rotor. Tighten the 12 mm bolts.
You're done.
Advice caveat emptor. I've never done the brakes on a Civic, but they can't be that much different from other Honda products I have seen.
Terry
The noise you are hearing is the "squealer". A piece of metal on the brake pad which tells you it's time to attend to the brakes. When you apply the brakes the squealer is still making contact with the rotor, but is designed to make a noise when only a light contact. It's not surprising the noise goes away when you apply the brakes.
IF, and ONLY IF, you decide to do the brakes, its a relatively easy process as others have mentioned.
Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Do not trust the jack to hold the car. Take off the front wheels (loosen before jacking). You will most likely see a bracket holding the brake line on the control arm. You may need to remove this. Then remove the entire cradle which includes the caliper assembly. Offhand I would imagine two 17 mm bolts are being used to hold the cradle in place. Use wire or rope to hold it aside. I think Honda use two 8 mm philips screws that hold the rotor to the the hub assembly. These need to be removed and are usually a bitch to to loosen. Especially if the hub assembly is free wheeling. An impact works great for this. Remove the rotor and set aside for resurfacing. Once you have both rotors resurfaced then reinstall on the hub assembly. Replace the mounting cradle. I have no idea what the torque specification is.
Once the cradle is re-installed, there are two bolts behind it which hold the caliper assembly in place. I think they are 12 mm. Loosen but do not remove entirely. Once both bolts are loosened, then remove the bottom bolt entirely. This will allow you to SWING the caliper assemble upwards and clearing the rotor entirely. Remove the old pads and replace with new ones. Most likely, however, the brake piston will have extended and once the new pads are in place the assembly will not clear the rotor. Take a large C-clamp and use it to compress the piston. Most likely the assembly will have a dust cover with a relief valve underneath. This is a two handed affair, as you will need to tighten the C-clamp with one hand while simultaneously opening the relief valve SLIGHTLY with you other hand. Once the piston is compressed, the IMMEDIATELY tighten the relief valve. If you don't, then air will enter the system and it will need to be bled. Put the new pads back in the assembly and place on the rotor. Tighten the 12 mm bolts.
You're done.
Advice caveat emptor. I've never done the brakes on a Civic, but they can't be that much different from other Honda products I have seen.
Terry
03-12-2009, 03:11 AM
#10
Moderator
Do NOT loosen the bleeder screw while compressing the caliper piston. It is not mandatory, and for a beginner, that is where stuff can go wrong.
I would also add that you need to remove the two clips on the caliper bracked and thoroughly clean them.
Also, prior to installing the freshly resurfaced rotor, you should use sandpaper to clean all debris from the hub flange and the backside of the rotor hat. It is imperative that you get those two surfaces shiny or else it may lead to runout issues on sensitive applications.
I would also add that you need to remove the two clips on the caliper bracked and thoroughly clean them.
Also, prior to installing the freshly resurfaced rotor, you should use sandpaper to clean all debris from the hub flange and the backside of the rotor hat. It is imperative that you get those two surfaces shiny or else it may lead to runout issues on sensitive applications.
03-12-2009, 10:52 AM
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Get the shop manual for the Civic or scans of the manual pages with the brake job/rotor removal and reassembly images-- that'll help you put the instructions from Sodaluvr and teranfon into perspective/context.
I'd rate doing the brakes a 4/10 or 5/10 in difficulty, esp. with the time and annoyance of bringing the discs to a shop to have them turned-- I disassemble one side and take it for turning, leaving the other side assembled so I have an example to look at if I forget how the pieces are put together.
That won't be an issue if you are using new rotors/discs.
I'd rate doing the brakes a 4/10 or 5/10 in difficulty, esp. with the time and annoyance of bringing the discs to a shop to have them turned-- I disassemble one side and take it for turning, leaving the other side assembled so I have an example to look at if I forget how the pieces are put together.
That won't be an issue if you are using new rotors/discs.
03-12-2009, 11:16 AM
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The 06+ Civics have a tendency to wear out brakes very quickly. I've heard that 25,000 miles or less is common in major metropolitan areas such as Southern California!
Since there are grooves on the rotor, I would resurface or replace the front rotors with the brake job.
Brakes aren't difficult to do, but you will need the appropriate sockets in 1/2" drive size, 1/2" drive ratchet, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a c-clamp and an impact screwdriver.
The Akebono pads will come with a packet of Molykote. Apply that compound to the portion of the brake pad shim that contacts the caliper piston and the caliper "fingers." Get some synthetic caliper grease from the parts store and lubricate the caliper slide pins and the bores that they reside in.
Since there are grooves on the rotor, I would resurface or replace the front rotors with the brake job.
Brakes aren't difficult to do, but you will need the appropriate sockets in 1/2" drive size, 1/2" drive ratchet, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a c-clamp and an impact screwdriver.
The Akebono pads will come with a packet of Molykote. Apply that compound to the portion of the brake pad shim that contacts the caliper piston and the caliper "fingers." Get some synthetic caliper grease from the parts store and lubricate the caliper slide pins and the bores that they reside in.
.....I will get them resurfaced thow....Thanks for letting me know about Molykote. How are Akebono pads though ???As much as I do all my own repairs, I don't recommend anyone doing them if they are not comfortable with the process. If it's something you are not comfortable with, then take it to a professional.
The noise you are hearing is the "squealer". A piece of metal on the brake pad which tells you it's time to attend to the brakes. When you apply the brakes the squealer is still making contact with the rotor, but is designed to make a noise when only a light contact. It's not surprising the noise goes away when you apply the brakes.
IF, and ONLY IF, you decide to do the brakes, its a relatively easy process as others have mentioned.
Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Do not trust the jack to hold the car. Take off the front wheels (loosen before jacking). You will most likely see a bracket holding the brake line on the control arm. You may need to remove this. Then remove the entire cradle which includes the caliper assembly. Offhand I would imagine two 17 mm bolts are being used to hold the cradle in place. Use wire or rope to hold it aside. I think Honda use two 8 mm philips screws that hold the rotor to the the hub assembly. These need to be removed and are usually a bitch to to loosen. Especially if the hub assembly is free wheeling. An impact works great for this. Remove the rotor and set aside for resurfacing. Once you have both rotors resurfaced then reinstall on the hub assembly. Replace the mounting cradle. I have no idea what the torque specification is.
Once the cradle is re-installed, there are two bolts behind it which hold the caliper assembly in place. I think they are 12 mm. Loosen but do not remove entirely. Once both bolts are loosened, then remove the bottom bolt entirely. This will allow you to SWING the caliper assemble upwards and clearing the rotor entirely. Remove the old pads and replace with new ones. Most likely, however, the brake piston will have extended and once the new pads are in place the assembly will not clear the rotor. Take a large C-clamp and use it to compress the piston. Most likely the assembly will have a dust cover with a relief valve underneath. This is a two handed affair, as you will need to tighten the C-clamp with one hand while simultaneously opening the relief valve SLIGHTLY with you other hand. Once the piston is compressed, the IMMEDIATELY tighten the relief valve. If you don't, then air will enter the system and it will need to be bled. Put the new pads back in the assembly and place on the rotor. Tighten the 12 mm bolts.
You're done.
Advice caveat emptor. I've never done the brakes on a Civic, but they can't be that much different from other Honda products I have seen.
Terry
The noise you are hearing is the "squealer". A piece of metal on the brake pad which tells you it's time to attend to the brakes. When you apply the brakes the squealer is still making contact with the rotor, but is designed to make a noise when only a light contact. It's not surprising the noise goes away when you apply the brakes.
IF, and ONLY IF, you decide to do the brakes, its a relatively easy process as others have mentioned.
Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Do not trust the jack to hold the car. Take off the front wheels (loosen before jacking). You will most likely see a bracket holding the brake line on the control arm. You may need to remove this. Then remove the entire cradle which includes the caliper assembly. Offhand I would imagine two 17 mm bolts are being used to hold the cradle in place. Use wire or rope to hold it aside. I think Honda use two 8 mm philips screws that hold the rotor to the the hub assembly. These need to be removed and are usually a bitch to to loosen. Especially if the hub assembly is free wheeling. An impact works great for this. Remove the rotor and set aside for resurfacing. Once you have both rotors resurfaced then reinstall on the hub assembly. Replace the mounting cradle. I have no idea what the torque specification is.
Once the cradle is re-installed, there are two bolts behind it which hold the caliper assembly in place. I think they are 12 mm. Loosen but do not remove entirely. Once both bolts are loosened, then remove the bottom bolt entirely. This will allow you to SWING the caliper assemble upwards and clearing the rotor entirely. Remove the old pads and replace with new ones. Most likely, however, the brake piston will have extended and once the new pads are in place the assembly will not clear the rotor. Take a large C-clamp and use it to compress the piston. Most likely the assembly will have a dust cover with a relief valve underneath. This is a two handed affair, as you will need to tighten the C-clamp with one hand while simultaneously opening the relief valve SLIGHTLY with you other hand. Once the piston is compressed, the IMMEDIATELY tighten the relief valve. If you don't, then air will enter the system and it will need to be bled. Put the new pads back in the assembly and place on the rotor. Tighten the 12 mm bolts.
You're done.
Advice caveat emptor. I've never done the brakes on a Civic, but they can't be that much different from other Honda products I have seen.
Terry
Do NOT loosen the bleeder screw while compressing the caliper piston. It is not mandatory, and for a beginner, that is where stuff can go wrong.
I would also add that you need to remove the two clips on the caliper bracked and thoroughly clean them.
Also, prior to installing the freshly resurfaced rotor, you should use sandpaper to clean all debris from the hub flange and the backside of the rotor hat. It is imperative that you get those two surfaces shiny or else it may lead to runout issues on sensitive applications.
I would also add that you need to remove the two clips on the caliper bracked and thoroughly clean them.
Also, prior to installing the freshly resurfaced rotor, you should use sandpaper to clean all debris from the hub flange and the backside of the rotor hat. It is imperative that you get those two surfaces shiny or else it may lead to runout issues on sensitive applications.
THANKS A LOT GUYS....ALL OF YOU !!!!
03-12-2009, 11:19 AM
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Get the shop manual for the Civic or scans of the manual pages with the brake job/rotor removal and reassembly images-- that'll help you put the instructions from Sodaluvr and teranfon into perspective/context.
I'd rate doing the brakes a 4/10 or 5/10 in difficulty, esp. with the time and annoyance of bringing the discs to a shop to have them turned-- I disassemble one side and take it for turning, leaving the other side assembled so I have an example to look at if I forget how the pieces are put together. That won't be an issue if you are using new rotors/discs.
I'd rate doing the brakes a 4/10 or 5/10 in difficulty, esp. with the time and annoyance of bringing the discs to a shop to have them turned-- I disassemble one side and take it for turning, leaving the other side assembled so I have an example to look at if I forget how the pieces are put together.
That won't be an issue if you are using new rotors/discs. LOL.....
03-12-2009, 11:25 AM
#14
Pay the bucks and let a pro do it.
03-12-2009, 11:29 AM
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^^^ am not contemplating my decision any more 
.....thanks man !!!
.....thanks man !!!
03-12-2009, 08:37 PM
#16
Moderator
I installed a set on a '01 TL a few years ago. No problems. I think the Raybestos Advanced Technology pads are pretty good though, they seem to last forever and deliver OK stopping performance. I think most of the premium brake pads are decent, except for Wagner.
I think Monroe is still running the promotion of their new Ceramic pads right now, so they can be had for around $30/set.
I think Monroe is still running the promotion of their new Ceramic pads right now, so they can be had for around $30/set.
03-12-2009, 10:57 PM
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^^^ havent heard any of the brands that you just mentioned
03-12-2009, 10:59 PM
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03-12-2009, 11:07 PM
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shit i went with the most expensive stuff.....dude which brake pad do you recommend.....remember its my girls car LOL.....
03-12-2009, 11:14 PM
#20
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I haven't had any trouble with the Raybestos Advanced Technology ceramic pads so I would go with those as long as you aren't picky about the stopping power. But the new Monroe Ceramic pads are very inexpensive with the promotion and might be very good as well.
03-12-2009, 11:24 PM
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^^^ havent bought it yet.... ....
i think i might as well go with a a brake pad + rotor setup.....
stopping power: 4/5
dust: dont really care....
now what do you recommend ???
....i think i might as well go with a a brake pad + rotor setup.....
stopping power: 4/5
dust: dont really care....
now what do you recommend ???
03-12-2009, 11:27 PM
#22
Moderator
The old rotors are probably still OK so I would just have them resurfaced by Pep Boys or a local shop for $10-$15/rotor and save yourself the money.
03-12-2009, 11:43 PM
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HAWK was like 60 for axle set....
sorry i said 4/5 for stopping....i meant 2-3/5....sorry for troubling you so much but i just wanted to get a decent set....and since the rotor is scratching as well, and if i get a decent set for a good price, i dont mind getting the full set....
sorry i said 4/5 for stopping....i meant 2-3/5....sorry for troubling you so much but i just wanted to get a decent set....and since the rotor is scratching as well, and if i get a decent set for a good price, i dont mind getting the full set....
03-12-2009, 11:48 PM
#24
Moderator
HAWK was like 60 for axle set....
sorry i said 4/5 for stopping....i meant 2-3/5....sorry for troubling you so much but i just wanted to get a decent set....and since the rotor is scratching as well, and if i get a decent set for a good price, i dont mind getting the full set....
sorry i said 4/5 for stopping....i meant 2-3/5....sorry for troubling you so much but i just wanted to get a decent set....and since the rotor is scratching as well, and if i get a decent set for a good price, i dont mind getting the full set....
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RAYBESTOS Part # ATD465AC {Advanced Technology}
Front; 2 Dr. Coupe; Ceramic; Originally Equipped With Ceramic
Front; 4 Dr. Sedan; Ceramic; EX; Originally Equipped With Ceramic
$44.99
Subtotal: $148.97
Discount (5% off coupon): $7.45
Shipping (St. Louis??): $13.85
Total: $155.37
The professional grade Raybestos pads are $10 less and would probably work just as well, at least according to the shops around here. I've only used the Advanced Technology ones myself so I can only vouch for those.
03-12-2009, 11:57 PM
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might as well spend an extra 10 bucks.....
hey man....thanks a lot for all the help.....you have a lot of knowledge....damn.....i wish either i was in cali or you were here....doing the brake job would have been a definite DIY....
Thanks a lot anyway man....
hey man....thanks a lot for all the help.....you have a lot of knowledge....damn.....i wish either i was in cali or you were here....doing the brake job would have been a definite DIY....
Thanks a lot anyway man....
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