Did I mess up anything with the engine?
Did I mess up anything with the engine?
I drove fast my car today on the highway, at high RPM (about 5000, but never in the red zone) in hot weather (32 C / 90 F) for about 10 minutes. Nothing wrong with the engine temperature, but when I stopped while the engine was idling and still on I noticed it was quite noisier than usual. It sounded like a diesel engine (though it is a gasoline). It sounded also like a boiling water.
Questions:
1. Did I mess anything? Is it possible I did a permanent damage to the engine or anything else?
2. Is there anything I should check?
3. Is driving in hot weather bad for the oil? In other words if the ambient temperature is high does this shorten the oil life? Thanks a lot.
Here is a video. Notice after the 7th-8th second there is a hollow noise, tick-tack, tick-tack every second.
Questions:
1. Did I mess anything? Is it possible I did a permanent damage to the engine or anything else?
2. Is there anything I should check?
3. Is driving in hot weather bad for the oil? In other words if the ambient temperature is high does this shorten the oil life? Thanks a lot.
Here is a video. Notice after the 7th-8th second there is a hollow noise, tick-tack, tick-tack every second.
Last edited by Georgi; Jun 1, 2018 at 01:55 PM.
What car? Engine type? How many KM?
Healthy engines can run into the red zone under higher temperatures for longer than 10 minutes without any damage...
It's kind of hard to tell from the video, but do you notice a loss of power? Any misfires? Have you run any codes via the ODB2 port?
How is your oil level?
Healthy engines can run into the red zone under higher temperatures for longer than 10 minutes without any damage...
It's kind of hard to tell from the video, but do you notice a loss of power? Any misfires? Have you run any codes via the ODB2 port?
How is your oil level?
What car? Engine type? How many KM?
Healthy engines can run into the red zone under higher temperatures for longer than 10 minutes without any damage...
It's kind of hard to tell from the video, but do you notice a loss of power? Any misfires? Have you run any codes via the ODB2 port?
How is your oil level?
Healthy engines can run into the red zone under higher temperatures for longer than 10 minutes without any damage...
It's kind of hard to tell from the video, but do you notice a loss of power? Any misfires? Have you run any codes via the ODB2 port?
How is your oil level?
No loss of power, the oil level is just normal, I use Mobil1 ESP 5w30 fully synthetic, have recently changed it.
And the car never overheat.
However, I know how quiet and smooth the engine used to run and sound before today's event.
It is different now. And if I press the throttle the kak-kak-kak sound becomes more frequent as the rpms go up.
With the information given, it doesn't sound like the engine would have destroyed itself in such a short amount of time under that kind of load. Especially if oil levels are good.
If I were you, I would check to see if there's anything loose in the engine bay ... example being a heatshield, loose bracket, anything else.
Just my
If I were you, I would check to see if there's anything loose in the engine bay ... example being a heatshield, loose bracket, anything else.
Just my
With the information given, it doesn't sound like the engine would have destroyed itself in such a short amount of time under that kind of load. Especially if oil levels are good.
If I were you, I would check to see if there's anything loose in the engine bay ... example being a heatshield, loose bracket, anything else.
Just my
If I were you, I would check to see if there's anything loose in the engine bay ... example being a heatshield, loose bracket, anything else.
Just my

What you are saying makes sense - it could be a heatshield, loose bracket (I'll check these). However, why would the noice increase its beat when I press down the accelerator? Sounds more like an engine issue
There's no reason your engine should have any problems after what you described. Especially if it's well maintained, as you said it's been.
I think you just became worried and are now noticing things you wouldn't have before.
At worst, the oil could have broken down given the temperatures and high RPM operation. If you're that concerned, change the oil.
There's no real way you can tell if damage has been done unless you have a real time oil temp monitor, or do a teardown and look at the internals.
I think you just became worried and are now noticing things you wouldn't have before.
At worst, the oil could have broken down given the temperatures and high RPM operation. If you're that concerned, change the oil.
There's no real way you can tell if damage has been done unless you have a real time oil temp monitor, or do a teardown and look at the internals.
While it may be a bit of a long shot, I would try to feel anything out as being loose first as it's the easiest thing to check ... not to mention, the least expensive / time consuming
If you want some piece of mind, you can always pull spark plugs and perform a compression test on all 4 cylinders while the engine is warm. If you have consistent compression over all 4 cylinders, next would be pulling the intake manifold and checking your valve clearances.
As the intake / exhaust valves become out of spec, the valvetrain can get quite noisy .. in which case, a valve adjustment is needed.
I will say though, 4 cyl Accords (of almost any generation) are generally pretty damn reliable and maintenance free ... I would highly doubt an engine that young would need any kind of valve adjustments / substantial engine damage unless it was mis-shifted or poorly maintained.
Just a thought.
Last edited by TylerT; Jun 1, 2018 at 04:16 PM.
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Thank you, guys for your words of consolation.
Hopefully it won't be an engine issue. This morning I drove it again - and the same story - irregular knocking when the engine is idling. And it makes no difference if the engine is cold or warm. However, the good news is that it accelerates normally, no power loss, the oil is at the usual level, the coolant is ok, it doesn't overheat, etc. I checked for loose brackets and they seem fine.
By the way, the noise seems to be more intense on the right side - near the belts (on the left in the video).
Hopefully it won't be an engine issue. This morning I drove it again - and the same story - irregular knocking when the engine is idling. And it makes no difference if the engine is cold or warm. However, the good news is that it accelerates normally, no power loss, the oil is at the usual level, the coolant is ok, it doesn't overheat, etc. I checked for loose brackets and they seem fine.
By the way, the noise seems to be more intense on the right side - near the belts (on the left in the video).
Get a stethoscope to determine where the noise is loudest; that'll locate the problem for you.
Last edited by Will Y.; Jun 2, 2018 at 02:03 AM.
Guys,
It turned out to be the Air condition compressor - it is gone. The problem had nothing to do with driving at high rpm or the heat or the engine.
The service guy said that japanese cars basically have weaker a/c compressors that work at maximum which shortens their life. European and newer cars, in contrast, do not work at max, he said they have some protection maintaining the temperature, thus they last longer.
Anyways, one question: Is it ok to temporary drive it that way?
It turned out to be the Air condition compressor - it is gone. The problem had nothing to do with driving at high rpm or the heat or the engine.
The service guy said that japanese cars basically have weaker a/c compressors that work at maximum which shortens their life. European and newer cars, in contrast, do not work at max, he said they have some protection maintaining the temperature, thus they last longer.
Anyways, one question: Is it ok to temporary drive it that way?
Guys,
It turned out to be the Air condition compressor - it is gone. The problem had nothing to do with driving at high rpm or the heat or the engine.
The service guy said that japanese cars basically have weaker a/c compressors that work at maximum which shortens their life. European and newer cars, in contrast, do not work at max, he said they have some protection maintaining the temperature, thus they last longer.
Anyways, one question: Is it ok to temporary drive it that way?
It turned out to be the Air condition compressor - it is gone. The problem had nothing to do with driving at high rpm or the heat or the engine.
The service guy said that japanese cars basically have weaker a/c compressors that work at maximum which shortens their life. European and newer cars, in contrast, do not work at max, he said they have some protection maintaining the temperature, thus they last longer.
Anyways, one question: Is it ok to temporary drive it that way?
The sound in your video doesn't sound like a tensioner / bearing failed.
OK, the AC issue has been fixed. It turned out to be a loose AC bearing and a magnet. The problem is solved, the noise has disappeared, the AC is working now.
However, I have a new problem - the engine shakes while idling. I don't have power lost or anything else. I watched the possible reasons and I strongly suppose the mechanic left something loose while putting back belt.
Am I right? What else might have caused that annoying engine shake?
However, I have a new problem - the engine shakes while idling. I don't have power lost or anything else. I watched the possible reasons and I strongly suppose the mechanic left something loose while putting back belt.
Am I right? What else might have caused that annoying engine shake?
Similar symptoms to my buddy's 2003 CRV - check the intake hose going to the throttlebody from the airbox. It may be loose or have a crack in it allowing in unmetered air.
Also, check for any disconnected / leaking vacuum lines to the Intake manifold.
Also, check for any disconnected / leaking vacuum lines to the Intake manifold.
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