I have a 97 3.0L CL that takes a long time to warm up. It is winter here in minnesota so I know it takes longer than normal but on most days it takes at least 15-20 minutes of running to get to full temp. Im not sure if this is just normal for this car or if i need a radiator flush/temp sensor replacement or what. any ideas? i just got the oil changed 2000 miles ago so i dont think its that.

 

15-20 minutes of driving or idling?

 

possbily the thermostat

 

+1

Does the car actually reach operating temperature? If so, will it lose temperature at a noticeable rate when idling? It sounds as if it may be time to replace the thermostat. Not that big of a job.

Terry

 

+2 on the thermostat.

Mike

 

ok. my next problem comes in finding where they hid the thermostat on my engine and how to replace it... i dont really feel like shelling over $30 for a service manual to install a $15 part

 

I have never done any work to a '97 CL and will be the first to admit the following procedure may not apply exactly to your vehicle, but basically do the following:

You will have both an upper and a lower radiator hose. Locate the upper hose and follow it to the housing on top of the engine. There will be small housing, usually affixed to the intake manifold.

Purchase the proper thermostat and appropriate gasket. I would use a replacement of factory temperature.

Next drain the coolant from the tap located at the bottom of the radiator. No need to drain it completely, but make sure the level in the radiator drains lower than that of the aforementioned housing on the engine. If not, the coolant will be higher than the housing and will spill out once the thermostat housing is removed. Drain the coolant into a flat container that is clean and can hold several litres. It can be re-used. It is VERY important NOT to let any animals near this fluid. If they ingest it they will die. And horribly. Clean all splashes that may land on the floor.

Next remove the upper rad hose from the housing base. No need to remove the end directly attached to the radiator. Once the hose is removed, then remove the housing itself. If the coolant is properly drained, you won't have any spillage. Next remove the thermostat from the housing. You will also need to remove any gasket remnants from the housing. Also remove any excessive gasket material from the manifold as well. Take care not to scrape any excess material into the manifold. You can use a putty knife, but make sure you don't gouge the aluminum material. Place the new thermostat into the housing. THE SPRING SIDE OF THE THERMOSTAT SHOULD FACE INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. Place the new gasket on the housing. Some prefer the use of a silicon in addition to the gasket. If you choose to do so, use very sparingly and make sure not to apply to the thermostat or any water passages. Re-affix the housing to the manifold and re-attach the upper rad hose. Remember that both the manifold and housing are likely aluminum. No need to tighten extremely.

Place the majority of the drained coolant back into the radiator. Run car until warm and check for leaks. Watch out for fan. Once the car warms up you may notice the cooling system has air bubbles. Running the engine while warm will allow air to escape. Make sure the cap is off during this process. After a couple of minutes turn off car and add the rest of the coolant. Check for leaks. Replace cap. Good to go.

Clean up spilled coolant.

Good luck. The aforementioned is very basic and you may have to remove a belt or component or two. Perhaps anyone who is familiar with this type of car could offer additional or correct advice.

Terry

 

do you idle your car the whole time?

 

hey thanks for the instructionst teranfon