fuck that, leave em on...they look good.

 

Trucks looking good bro, just read through the thread randomly bored late night lol

 

this thread is like a men seeking men ad on craigslist.

 

down here in Texas, we love our Chevy's!!
I've always wanted your body style, although the new ones are fuckin sexy!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Truck was totaled out from insurance due to a hail storm back in June. Decided to keep the truck and they cashed out the remainder of my loan. It will be nice not having a car payment anymore. Now that I know I am keeping it, the boxes of parts sitting in the basement will be going on, hopefully soon!

Headlights w/ LEDs
LED Light Bar
Leveling Kit

and a few minor repairs.

Pics to come.

 

Well that sucks but at least it's paid off. How bad was the damage?

 

are you going to let the hail damage ride, or do something about it?
i like how this project is starting off.

 

I don't see a blower on the mod list......

 

Pretty much just going to look for a new hood. That is the biggest eye sore. The roof you can't tell because its over your head. The front fenders have a few that are pretty noticeable but I will address that after a hood if they really stand out after getting that taken care of. As for the rest of the damage, I will just leave it. The truck is starting to show its age for living in the rustbelt. Minor maintenance/mods to keep her running and hauling deer this fall.

Might add new side mirrors since the housings cracked and replace my broken rain guards.

I don't think my trans would hold up to the first burnout... With the amount insurance gave me, I was basically reimbursed for the new motor I put in it and saved an extra $4000 so I am not too mad about that. The $4k will go towards a trans eventually but who knows when that will shit out on me. (knock on wood)

 

My dad got out of his 09 Duramax when the trans started slipping a bit. A built Allison is something like $6k.
He had a tuner on it & kept it on mild to avoid grenading the trans. Told the new owner that if he was going to run it hard, to start putting away for a built Allison.

 

My 15 Burban is on a rebuilt 6L80 now...cost was like $2500 plus I paid a grand to install to get warranty on the rebuilt including labor.
Drives great now and replaced the blend door actuator last week so $32 AC fix
I love my GM products.
Looking forward to you cleaning it up...
I have the 96 looking kinda right now, driving great and the 350 motor is a tank but it is so inefficient and slow...really the perfect around town
cruiser with the two 12's I put in etc...

 

GM 350 & 700R4 makes for a good drive, just don't be in a hurry.
Our Suburbalanche has the same & still runs great at 35 years old (needs a new ECU at the moment).

 

Moisture intrusion?
What fried?
Lucky for you the junkyard has like a billion of these, not sure if they are all interchangeable though

 

Leading suspicion is battery hooked up backward & fried it.
It lives at our ranch & we keep the batteries indoors. Denial by the suspect
We tried the ECU from the 92 we also have, but it was a no-go, or was bad too. But the 92 always ran pretty poorly.

 

Damn, now I'm checking out local Suburbans/Yukons...

 

is there a weird voltage regulator in the alternator like the merc has?

 

Not on an 87, nice & simple.

 

So the truck must know when I have money to spend. With the remaining balance of the loan getting paid off, it decided to act up yet again. This time there was a flashing CEL for short period and no stored codes but seems to be misfiring at start up and idle along with falling on its face when I go to accelerate.

Does this sound along the lines of a bad Coil Pack? What would be the best way to go about diagnosing this? I don't have a scanner to read them.

 

Sounds like a bad coil or bad plug. Best way to find out is with a scanner otherwise you're kind of shooting in the dark. Once you find out which one it is, swap the coil to a different cylinder and see if the code follows. If yes, then it's the coil. If no, then it's probably the plug.

Flashing CEL might also be a bunch of other things too, get the codes read to find out for sure.

 

Start with Codes for SURE.

 

Co-worker had his scanner at work the other day. It didn't read any codes. I thought it was odd. I have a cheap reader at home that doesn't read any live data, I will try that and see if that pulls anything.

 

Oh so this was after attempting to.
Hmmm...
what year again?

 

clogged cats?
trans noises? dead torque converter?
motor falling flat or just accelerating?
mass air flow sensor

 

Could also be O2 sensors crapping out.

If you had a flashing CEL then there are for sure some stored codes to be found. If you're having intermittent issues then I'd say that it might be a wiring problem. Didn't the 6.0L engines have an issue with the throttle wiring or something like that?

 

2010 - 6.0 long block - 5.3 stock harness

 

any stabilitrak warnings?

 

Got one of these from my dad after one was left in a trade in at the dealer where he was working.
https://www.motor1.com/products-serv...-obd2-scanner/

A little pricey, at $120, but does some live data logging & can read codes.
Haven't played with it too much other than having some of the live data streams going on my commute.
https://us.bluedriver.com/pages/bluedriver

 

Negative. The only dash light I've had was the blinking CEL but it never stayed solid after that happened as I was pulling into work. The truck was bogging at that time. Now it just hesitates/bogs idling and doesn't throw a code. I haven't kept it running for long since it has been parked. I don't want to cause more damage. I've never erased a light since this started either.

 

Going to give it a shot. Should be delivered, today, between 5-8.

 

I haven't tried pulling codes, as the Malibu hasn't thrown any, but the live data logging is cool. The phone interface is pretty easy.

 

Sounds like wiring or sensor issue more so than a coil/plug.

 

Ran the scan tool last night, pulled up P0300 and P0521. I knew about P0521, because the OPS is and has always been a piece of shit.

Truck ran fine, full power, on the initial start up. Took around the block, nothing seemed wrong. Pulled over, turned it off, turned it back on again and the problem was there. Slight tick and missing... The scan tool doesn't read coils, or if it did I didn't see it in the supported live feed. Fuel pressure seemed within range, so I kind of ruled fuel pump/filter out.

The scan tool itself is pretty nice. I thought about using it to scan the truck and then return since it is $125 but will be a nice tool to have, Might sell my other device and keep this now.

 

Keep the scan tool on and take it for a drive with some hard accelerations. It may be detecting a misfire but can't narrow it down.

Other thing to potentially do is clear the code and see if it comes back.

 

How's the knock/crank sensors lookin?
I know they have their own code but I wonder if it's a bad knock if it's sensing it as misfires and putting it into limp.
How fresh are your plugs and wires?

 

Unsure of condition of knock/crank sensor.

Plugs are 2.5 yrs 27k miles. Coil packs and wires I would assume are original. I've never replaced them. Current mileage on body is 132,500.

 

you sound defeated.

 

Ran diagnostics in "mode 6". That revealed cyl 7 & 8 had misfires at idle only after the motor at operating temp. Didn't take it for a drive when warmed up. My neighbor mentioned coil packs don't start to break down and act up until they are hot. This kind of makes sense because when the truck is cold it runs fine and full power. Once it is hot you feel it bucking/jerking. Does that make sense to any of you guys or is my neighbor a bull shitter?

 

Swap the coil packs to a different cylinder and see if the code follows. That'll be your answer.

 

That is my plan when I can find some time/space. Right now my house is still having new siding put up. Guys have a press brake in the garage and don't feel like working on it in the street.

 

Little update...

Swapped coil packs - no change.

Pulled old NGK gapped @ .065 plugs and replaced with ACDelco gapped @ .040 - no change

Dropped of at local shop, since the shop that did the install is no longer working on cars, and they are almost 100% certain it is mechanical and most likely a failed lifter in cyl 3. My question is, do you think this could be a failing oil pump causing these issues? The oil pump on it now is from the old motor. Good thing is this motor is under warranty until Feb 2023 with a no fault coverage and should be replaced/fixed under that with a portion of the labor covered. I submitted a claim and am waiting to hear back from the company on the next step.

In the meantime. I am looking for another vehicle to add to the fleet so I don't have to borrow vehicles when one goes down. What are some good commuter cars, looking for a decent MPG, that are comfy and roomy for car seats in the back? Looking to try and keep it under $25k if possible, and GO!