Cameras & Photography Because there aren't already enough ways to share photos...

some pics with the new flash. C&C please..

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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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some pics with the new flash. C&C please..

so what i did was took a pic with and without the stofen, 45* angle off the roof,i like how the couch shows color,but to me his face looks too white? am i right? also the ones with the stofen look like theyre OOF or maybe its the DOF? i shot these in < P >,just to get some quick shots,and these are the jpegs our of the cam. any C&C/suggestions to what i may be doing wrong would be appreciated.











Last edited by deltaboxxx; Feb 19, 2009 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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dont use program mode as the flash becomes the primary source of light.

use Av or M, because in that mode the camera exposes for ambient light and the flash is used to illuminate the subject.
(its something like that) im sure someone will explain it better.
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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i would personally use M mode, so you can match the flash exposure to the ambient exposure.

but i dont know anything about flash.

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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 10:39 PM
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Your son's face is blown out because he is in a really dark colored area. If you're using grid pattern metering, the camera will try and balance the whole scene.

Depending on how close you are to your son's face, I would use center weighted or even spot.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 01:02 AM
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i was about 6 feet away zoomed almost at 55 (x1.6)


i didnt know that about using P mode Vs M mode,the reason i didnt use M mode in the pic is 2 reasons

1. i just barely ventured into M mode and have been reading on how it works best for different situations and i have less than 20 pics in M mode

2. i didnt know p mode did that when using flash,and thought since its pretty much point and shoot mode it would just do all the settings for me.



wackjum,are u talking about the different metering modes? this is something i could never really figure out,and i want to learn more about so i know what its all about.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 01:03 AM
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BTW u cant tell so much in the pic but theres a huge window right behind the couch with no blinds letting alot of light in,and i also didnt have my camera in rear sync mode (which at first couldnt figure out how to change on my cam)
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 01:12 AM
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Program (P) mode flash.

The overriding principle of Program (P) mode in flash photography is that the camera tries to set a high shutter speed so that you can hold your camera by hand and not rely on a tripod. If that means the background is dark, so be it.

Program mode operates in one of two modes, depending on the ambient (existing) light levels.

1) If ambient light levels are fairly bright (above 13 EV) then P mode assumes you want to fill-flash your foreground subject. It meters for ambient light and uses flash, usually at a low-power setting, to fill in the foreground.

2) If ambient light levels are not bright (below 10 EV) then P mode assumes that you want to illuminate the foreground subject with the flash. It sets a shutter speed between 1/60 sec and the fastest X-sync speed (see above) your camera can attain. The aperture is determined by the camera’s built-in program.

Because the camera tries to keep the shutter speed at a reasonable speed for handholding the camera you will end up with dark or black backgrounds if you take a flash photo in P mode when ambient light levels are not bright.

On most if not all EOS cameras, P mode is not shiftable when flash (internal or shoe-mounted Speedlite) is used. Note also that DEP mode cannot work correctly with flash - its metering settings basically revert to P mode if you try it.

Tv (shutter priority) mode flash.

In this mode the camera lets you change the shutter speed. It then automatically chooses an aperture setting to expose the background correctly. Flash duration (flash output) is determined by the flash metering system. In other words, the camera always works in fill flash mode when it’s in Tv mode - it always tries to expose the background adequately, unlike P mode.

If the maximum aperture value of your lens starts flashing in the viewfinder it means the background of the scene you’re shooting is too dimly lit. If you want to try and expose the background then you should decrease the shutter speed to compensate. Otherwise the camera will just try and expose the foreground with flash and the background will come out dark. Naturally at slower shutter speeds you’ll need to use a tripod to avoid blurring caused by camera shake.

As always, the camera will prevent you from exceeding its built in X-sync speed unless FP mode is available to you and engaged. If the minimum aperture value of your lens starts flashing then your scene is too brightly lit. You must then either engage FP mode if it’s available or perhaps put a neutral density filter on the camera or use slower film or a lower digital ISO. Or turn off flash altogether and simply use a reflector of some type to bounce ambient light onto the subject.

The 420EZ and 430EZ flash units will operate in A-TTL mode in Tv mode, but the 540EZ works only in TTL mode. Note also that some people have reported that in this mode their type A camera bodies underexpose the background by up to a stop when light levels are low and an E-TTL flash unit is engaged. If this is the case try testing by comparing the aperture setting with M mode, which does not do this. You may need to apply exposure compensation if this effect exists on your camera and is undesirable.

Av (aperture priority) mode flash.

Av mode lets you set the depth of field by specifying the lens aperture. The camera then chooses a shutter speed ranging from 30 seconds to the camera’s X-sync speed, in order to expose the background correctly. If that means the shutter speed is some really low value so that you need to use a tripod to avoid camera-shake blur, so be it. In dark conditions, therefore, Av mode works in slow sync mode.

Flash duration (flash output) is determined by the flash metering system. Like Tv mode the camera always works in fill flash mode when in Av mode.

There is one exception to this. A number of EOS cameras have a custom function you can set to ensure that the shutter speed in Av mode when using flash is locked to the X-sync speed. The EOS 10/10s and Elan II/EOS 50, for example, have such a custom function, which lets your camera behave more like P mode when in Av mode. However this custom function will only lock the camera to X-sync in Av mode and will not choose a shutter speed from 1/60 sec to X-sync, the way P mode does.

As always, the camera will prevent you from exceeding its built in X-sync speed unless FP mode is available to you and engaged. If the shutter speed value of 30" flashes in the viewfinder then there isn’t enough light to expose the background correctly and you’ll need a larger aperture or faster film or higher ISO. If the camera’s X-sync flashes in the viewfinder then you’ll need to decrease the lens aperture, engage FP mode if it’s available or use slower film or a lower ISO.

The 420EZ and 430EZ flash units will operate in A-TTL mode in Av mode, but the 540EZ works only in TTL mode. Note also that some people have reported that in this mode their type A camera bodies underexpose the background by up to a stop when light levels are low and an E-TTL flash unit is engaged. If this is the case try testing by comparing the shutter speed setting with M mode, which does not do this. You may need to apply exposure compensation if this effect exists on your camera and is undesirable.

Manual (M) exposure mode flash.

In manual exposure mode you specify both the aperture and shutter speed, and your exposure settings will determine how the background (ambient lighting) is exposed. The subject, however, can still be illuminated by the automatic flash metering system since the flash can automatically calculate flash output levels for you. This is a marked contrast to the olden days, when photographers would carry around little flash exposure tables with them in order to work out manual flash settings.

This is how flash works in manual mode. Note that we’re talking about the manual exposure mode setting only, which can use automatic TTL flash metering (it will not use A-TTL metering in manual exposure mode). Also, we aren’t talking about setting the output of the flash manually - that’s manual flash and a different topic altogether.

* Set your camera to M for manual exposure mode.

* Set the aperture and shutter speed to expose the background correctly.

* Press the shutter button down halfway if your flash has a rear-panel LCD (liquid crystal display). The flash coupling range will appear in the flash unit’s LCD. This range is the distance that can safely be covered by the flash.

* If your lens has a distance scale you can check the current focussing distance to ensure that the distance to your subject falls within this range. Otherwise you’ll have to estimate.

* If the “flash ready” lightning bolt symbol appears in the viewfinder you can press the shutter all the way to take the photo. The flash’s TTL or E-TTL system will determine the flash exposure level of the subject.

If your flash lacks a rear-panel LCD you won’t have a preview of the flash coupling range, of course. Also, LCD-equipped flash units will not calculate the flash coupling range if you’re using bounce flash, and the coupling range will not necessarily be correct if you have a diffuser on the flash head.

Some Speedlite flashes, such as the 540EZ and 580EX, can display the coupling range in either feet or metres, depending on which measurement system has been set by the small switch in the battery compartment. Others, such as the 430EZ, are hardwired to one measurement system or the other, depending on where the flash was sold. US market flashes used feet and all other countries on the planet* had only metre flashes available to them. And the 580EX II can set the measurement system through a custom function.

* Trivia note - even countries such as Canada and the UK which are officially metric but which are nonetheless full of people who still use imperial measurements. Also Yemen, Rwanda, Burundi and Burma, which used to stand proudly with the USA as the planet’s only officially non-metric countries and which have now given up and are switching over to metric. Liberia is the only holdout I can find, and even there it’s only the government - apparently businesses and schools use metric.
about sums it up.

the whole thing can be read here.

the EOS flash bible.
http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 02:08 AM
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so much to take in! lol

thanks mizouse.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 02:08 AM
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Not intended to discourage you, but just an observation

You need more experience using your camera and learning basic photography principals before you move onto using an external flash.

My time analogy is, if it takes you 4 weeks to get comfortable with using a camera and learning what how and when to use various settings, it will take you 1 year to learn all of the nuances of using an external flash.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 02:16 AM
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^i agree,its complicated.

i only pick up my camera once every few weeks/months for pics,unless im just snapping some of myself or my son.
my son wont stay still for pics so i have to catch him off guard,so i cant really practice on him.

as much as i like photography,i really should spend more time playing with it,but im always in a dumpy mood since my wife is gone,i dont want to do shit thruout the day.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by deltaboxxx
my son wont stay still for pics so i have to catch him off guard,so i cant really practice on him.
practice on your wife then post them here...
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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^not so sure i have a wife anymore...sadly
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wackjum
Not intended to discourage you, but just an observation

You need more experience using your camera and learning basic photography principals before you move onto using an external flash.

My time analogy is, if it takes you 4 weeks to get comfortable with using a camera and learning what how and when to use various settings, it will take you 1 year to learn all of the nuances of using an external flash.
if you arent comfortable/understand the different settings/modes on your camera then it behooves you to at least take the time to read the manual. On and off camera flash are by no means something thats easy to get down right so its always important to sharpen up on the basics and learn your camera inside and out first.

It will also help you down the line because then you'll know what your camera is capable of, what you're comfortable with and then you can make judgment calls on what equipment/upgrades to make as opposed to dumping money into something that might not be the best choice.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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i thought i did but i was obviously wrong. i have gone over the manual when i had questions and thought i had a good idea of whats what,but admittedly i was obviously wrong and i have much more reading and shooting to do.

thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 04:00 PM
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Not so much the manual.

The manual only tells you how to adjust specific functions on your camera. It probably won't tell you what each function does, or if there is a description, it will be really brief.

I think you need to start with basic photography principals. For example, the interplay between f-stop and shutter speed. Why change one instead of the other. ISO. Metering methods.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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^thats what i have been reading about lately,i recently bought the digital photography books.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:57 PM
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since your camera is digital you dont have to worry about film. so just practice practice practice!
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