let me guess... there isn't one that has the versatility for me to use it universally huh???

but it would be used for more indoor shots since any outdoor and car shots i take will be during the daylight with sufficient light...

budget - reasonable... i don't have a problem spending a few hundred if i am getting a quality flash... but i am not willing to go out and spend $500...

honestly... prob not often... even though i read that the flash on the XTi isn't one of the greatest, if i am just out and about and the setting requires the flash i am sure it will do me fine.. i think i would break out the flash if i know i will def need it...

 

 

i just didnt know what was your ultimate use for it, and didnt want you to spend for something that you wouldnt really use. but based on your input Id say get the 430EX unit. it hasmore than enough power, and is pretty versatile (has a flip-down wide angle diffuser). the onboard unit is simply a no-no unless absolutely needed - but my advice, get a ping pong ball, cut out a slot and slide that over the onboard flash when you use it. it makes for a good diffuser and gives a softened, even light - just dont forget to bump up your FEC to compensate

 

Sometimes you just have to :troutslap to wake them up.

 

thanks for the advise... man i am such a i better start practicing alot when that thing arrives... give me a month and ill know what FEC actually means...

 

lol sorry bro, didnt mean it that way.

FEC stands for Flash Exposure Compensation. Basically on the camera (or on the LCD of the flash unit) there is a setting that has a small (+) and (-) together in a small black box icon, with a flash symbol next to it. you adjust this to the left of 0 (each click is usually a 1/3 stop) to decrease your flash output, to the right of 0 to increase it.

increasing the FEC turns up your flash (either the onboard or the top mount) output by a 1/3 of the stop (usually) up to a maximum of 2 or 3 stops. it increases your range quite a bit, especially more so if you crank up the ISO. the drawback is usually longer recycle (recharge) times for the flash between shots and, in long term, quicker degredation of the flash head.

decreasing the FEC shortens the recycle time between flashes. to compensate, you either foot zoom (walk closer) towards your subject or use higher ISO, as reducing the flash output shortens your range per given flash. this is useful though if you are trying to catch with flash someone walkg close by and have the DSLR on servo mode - almost every shot you take in rapid succession will be lit (albeit by a small amount) with the flash.

hope this helps

 

YAP

 

Man, I'm jealous of everyone's new rigs. I need to upgrade my Nikon as well...


And the fact that I had dinner with CANON users today, and a special appearance of a very special camera, (and lens) from jupitersolo, it's making me want a 40D.


I might be a Canon user soon.


Or I'll just upgrade to a D300. We'll see

 

my buddy dropped my XTI off tonight! ended up being more than I expected, The first quote of 412 was for the XT, XTI cost was actually 530 +10% for the store and 14% for Harper and Mcguinty final cost was 620, not as cheap as I thought sadly. Still saved bout 140 over retail. So close to being up and running!

 

congrats!!! did you start shooting yet or do you still have to wait for the lense???

anyone have any links for a reasonable CF card??? and what is enough for the XTi??? i don't need it ultra fast but i will need enough space to last me for when i go to Australia for 3 wks in Feb...

 

Still waiting for the lens, I'm at school right now finishing up exams and was not sure how long shipping would take so I sent it to my house because I did not want to risk not getting it in time here and being SOL for the winter break.

For CF cards look here
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...act+Flash+(CF)

Your going to want something fast to write all that data, especially if you want to shoot RAW. I bought the Sandisk 4GB Extreme 3, there is a nice Kingston one on the site that offers a 266x bus speed which is about as fast as it gets from what I understand. In terms of Capacity for a trip to Australia I'd bring a 16GB but more practically I would consider 4-8GB.

 

^^ Yeah, I wouldn't want to put all my ducks on the 16GB. If some thing happens, everything is gone. Check CC and Staples I think they might have cheaper prices on 4gb cards.

 

4X4GB cards also depends if you have access to a computer so if need be you can dump the card onto a dvd or something. Thats a real plus of keeping your card to 4GB you can drag and drop it too a dvd without worrying about sorting.

 

also the classic ipods with an adpator can be used for storage.

 

Good point, I bet a used one can be picked up pretty cheap. Here's a cnet review of the connector.

http://reviews.cnet.com/mp3-player-a...-31328733.html

I just saw a 20GB ipod photo on ebay for 11 bucks, seems like a really cheap storage alternative.

 

then i may have to do a 4X4GB... my family has computers but i am not sure that they would have card readers... i am figuring that the SLR isn't like my P&S where i can just connect the camera to the comp via USB and transfer that way???

 

wat is a decent read write speed... keyword decent... i think i am patient enough to deal with not needing lightspeed...

 

Personally I'd go for the x133 especially if you want to fully utilize the burst mode of the camera. At the bottom end I would not go below 40x simply because it will require about half a second to record a 3mb jpeg.

 

does brand matter???

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820208339

 

That's really up to you, it's pretty much the generic vs. name brand debate. Transcend is not a bad name. Sandisk and Lexar will be your big names and the rest seem to be variants from RAM manufacturers like Kingston, transcend etc. I don't see a problem going with that card.

 

Transcend seems to be big in Far East and Europe, just as Lexar and Sandisk is in the N.A.

 

If you can, get a fast Lexar or Sandisk.. It does matter. I've had a Kingston 2GB SD die on me within 2 weeks of use - and that was the last time I bought other than the top 2. Maybe you'd be ok with the Transcend etc. but generally you don't want any trouble with mem cards. You will get good reliability and fast read/write speeds with the fast (133x) Lexar and Sandisk cards.

my 2 cents: don't skimp on memory.

 

Last question before Christmas, I promise...

Is the following tripod/head overkill/underkill for a 40D with kit lens. I probably will eventually get a 70-300 zoom, just not yet.

Bogen / Manfrotto 190XPROB Legs
Bogen / Manfrotto 488RC4 Midi Ball Head

Anyone have experience with the RC4 quick release system as opposed to the RC2? I didn't see any levels on the RC2 head, so I thought I would go for the RC4..

 

I think that a very good choice for legs and head, just make sure that the tripod is as tall you are. You don't won't to have to keep bending over a lot. Maximum height: 57.5 inches, then add a few inches for the head.

 

That's the way I usually do it. It's just easier to connect the USB cord rather than take out the card. Once in a while it acts up on me though, and I have to use the card. I don't know why.

 

I am 5'9", so with the center column up a little I should be OK, plus the three inches or so of the camera body...

Thanks!

 

Well I have my rig all setup, might go snap so quick test shots tonight, but holiday parties may prevail.

 

Just picked up a Monfrotto 785b Tripod, was on sale for 69.99 this week.



It offers a whole pile of shooting operations, the Ball head is very nice too. can remove the teloscope on the main part to have the legs go flat too. This thing is very versatile and light!.

 

Where'd you buy it? That's a nice price.

 

www.henrys.com

They are a Canadian outfit, very knowledgeable staff. I think it was a boxing week sale.

 

you have an XTi right? then yea depending on what version of windows they're using you should be fine to do that.

if its XP its all good, just use the microsoft camera and scanner wizard.

 

Just ordered from B+H:

B/M 190XPROB legs:



and B/M 488RC4 ball head:

 

Quick filter question. I think a circular polarizing filter would be a good idea for some outdoor photos I plan on taking, and know Hoya and B+W are tops, but they each have SO many different CP filters, I am not sure what is "low grade", "practical" or "overkill". The filter is for a Canon 28-135mm (72mm filter). Any thoughts or tips on how to decide?

 

A polarizer definitely comes in handy, but it's one thing that you don't want to go cheap on. I prefer B+W, but Hoya's aren't bad but in either case, make sure you get one that has MRC coatings to cut down on flare.

Both companies sell slim and regular sized filters. Even though your 28-135 would be fine with a regular sized filter, the slim might be a good idea if you plan on getting a wide angle lens down the road. The slim filters don't have extra threads on the front, so you won't be able to screw another filter in front of it, but you could always screw one behind it if necessary.

One other thing to consider is that not many lenses use the 72mm thread size. You might want to consider getting a 77mm polarizer and a 72-77mm step up ring. That way you only have to invest in one filter and buy a cheap step-up ring for any smaller sized lenses in your collection. Although there are a few 82mm lenses out there, 77mm should cover just about anything you're likely to buy over the years. One caveat though: because the filter is bigger than your lens, you might have trouble using a lens hood with the filter. In that case, you can just hold a hat out or something to block the sun if it is hitting the front element.

 

Awesome info, Dan, as usual. Thanks! I have a hood on the 28-135, so I may end up going with the slim or regular 72mm and just getting a different filter for a different lens.

 

Anyone have a place (?online?) to buy a center release lens cap for use with a hood? Also, will these fit a lens with a filter on it? TIA.

 

Anyone have the student versions of Photoshop CS3 Extended or Lightroom? Are they upgradeable?

I am taking a photo class at a local CC, and will officially be a student for a couple of weeks, so I thought I would use the discount and get both for $380, but I don't want to if they will be non-upgradeable. The website (www.academicsuperstore.com) doesn't exactly clear up the issue..

 

Seeing how's Lightroom is $299 for the regular cost it really doesn't matter. The copy of Lightroom I have doesn't say that it is Education, but my copy of CS3 Extended has it on the box.

CS3 Extended is $900 or so. Just get them.

 

Good point. At that discount, who cares! Maybe Mods should change the thread title to "Stogie the nOOb's prolific questions, from a nOOb"