i cant decide if i want to dynamat my trunk...or use osmehting similar...that stuff seems really expensive and i do twant to put the work in if it doesnt help much...im either gonna do the whole trunk now...or just the lid later cause after the systems in i dont want to take it out...so what do you think...will it really improve my bass alot? 1 l7's by the way..i dont know if it makes a difference with more bass or less bass....

 

Well since u are gettin 2 L7s and a 1500bd you are gonna get alot of rattles, You might notice a difference in bass but with 1500 watts u wont use all that power. Would you need to do any electrical up grade with the 1500bd, O what are your mids and high. What kind of speakers and what amp?

 

heh...everything else is stock...i kinda blew all my money on the subs...i originnally didnt want to go so big..i went from thinking aobut 10inch l5s to the 12inch l7's which i bought....good thing i didnt go for 15s...but anyway...are you saying dynamatt in the trunk will help or not?..didnt really get the point of what your saying...oh, and do you think i should upgrade my speakers? i might aswell if there would be signifacant difference.

oh..and about the elesticle upgrade..i dont nkow..im getting it installed by a shop

 

oh..btw...what speakers do you use? and sorry about the questions...but if i were to upgrade my speakers...what size do ineed? and what should the mounting depth be...and should i use normal speakers or component speakers?...oh..and what are componet speakers?..sorry aobut the ques..thanx

 

Adjust your trunk latch, that helped more than dynamattin in my car. I first Dynamatted and then still had the rattles so I adjusted the trunk latch, and then it was gone. Hmm by observing the Equipment u already bought, U like loud music. If i was in your shoes I would go with Kicker Kx components in the front and 2 ways in the rear. If stil want more add a pair of Kicker R22 tweets, I have a friend how likes his music really loud and this is what I helped him do and he is pretty happy.

Eclipse Deck
Kicker EQ
5 1/4 kicker KX 2 ways in all for doors.
A pair of seperate R13 kicker tweets at the base of the A pillar by the mirrior thing,
A pair of Kicker R22 tweetes at the top of the B pillar by the seat belt.
He has a Fosgate power 550X powering all the tweets and 2 ways. If u were to add it up He has 8 tweeters and 4 mids.
FOr bass he has directed 600d and 2 12" comp VRs in a ported box, which he is selling and gettin 2 L5 12's and another 600d.

He likes his music loud and mainly listens to rap. He isnt about to win any SQ contest, but he likes the way he has it.

I have all alpine Type R speakers and currently have L5 solobaric. I want to change out my whole system again and get. All alpine electronics, from deck to amp, and alll diamond audio speakers.

 

cool thanx..i think im gonna look into some speakers

 

btw...when you say adjust the latch..what exactly do you mean and how would i go about doiung that? also i read that i could stop the licence plate rattle with by putting a sponge back there...i was wondering if you knew if that was cause mold or something that could damage the paint?

 

I would just dynamat the plate I did and it help that part out a lot. As far as dynamatting the trunk make sure you take your time and use a lot of it. Concentrate on the rear deck area. Aside from just matting i would look for anything that may be loose and subject to vibration such as the trunk latch that is inside against the top part of the back seat that dnd2984 mention previously.

Dynamatting inside your doors behind the speakers will help with your sound more so than matting the trunk. The trunk mostly to kill the rattling.

I am in the preperation stages of transplanting my system from my old 98 Accord V6 EX CPE to my newly purchased 01 3.2 TL White/tan. I have 2 Eclipse 12'' Aluminum DVC's 2 x 4 ohm powered by 2 bd500's with FNQ 5.25 and 6.5 comps powered by a RFpower 400.4. I like having tweets in all four corners of the car. Up front I have a Clarion DRX9575Rz HU.

I have just ordered the honda Q-Form kick panels (and am quite upset I didn't know they made them for Honda Accords before yesterday or I would have had them in my last car). I also ordered 28sq ft of cascade dampening material similar to dynamat but elastic based instead of asphalt so it doesn't smell like a newly paved street inside your car all the time. I have heard good things about it and will let you know once I get it and use it. I have used some chaep stuff found in Canada called Brown bread and was not impressed. It also stinks like dynamat

 

cool thanx

 

Ok pal, listen here. I've got all the tricks. ; ) Not really, but you can try it. All you need, is a $hitload of old towels that you don't need/use anymore. Pull the carpet panel off the top of your trunk. (Take about 8 screws out) (Plastic) And see all those little holes? Rip the towels up, and stuff that $hit in. You'll need some spray adheasive, but it really works. For a system, well, I have 2 Alpine type R's in a sealed box, running off a Pheonix Gold 600.2 . You wanna talk about bass? There's some. I noticed a huge difference. The towels absorb the rattle. It does work. Unfortunately, Dynomatt is desined to bounce bass back off, so esentially, I lost some sound, where as if I used dynomatt, I would have gained some. (I put some in before the towels) Lol. It might sound stupid, but Dynomatt is expensive. Plus it makes your car heavier. Anywho, son't mess around with anything that cheaper, and claims to be "as good". My friend ordered this crap called "Fat Matt"... He had to use like, 3 and 4 layers of it for it to work. Almost couldn't get his body panels back on afterwords... :Shrugs: Go with Dynomatt extreme. Good $hit.

For speakers I have, Focal Poly K's 6.5 and 2 tweets. One up high on my A pillar, one in the fiberglass blowout where the midbass driver is. Wanna hear something loud? Check out Focal. Some of the best speakers out there. Sensitivity is everything man. Remember that. Any questions?


-Paul-

 

Thats gonna be a badazzzsetup. I was thinking about ordering another 500bd. I wanna get Diamond Audio M6 12s. I got my 550x power type R component in the front and in the back. I am also thinking og kick panels and was gonna do a pair of Type R 5 1/4. and get a 200s amp to power them.

 

Even w/o the Q-forms it sounded really good. It was very clean at high volume. I t not not get to mat my car like I would have just didn't have the time. I am very busy between work and school. Gotta get the education to keep buying bigger and better toys

This time I took a week off for the deed (end of this month) and will mat everything that I can. I'll use the cheeper stuff in the trunck and cover it with cascade hopefully it will seal in the smell.

Now that I have the qforms in and can't decide what exacty to do. The fnq6.5's don't fit in them nor do the 5.25's. I can make the 5.25's fit by filling in the recessed part of the panels and using the rf grills. I'll use a 1/2 inch mdf spacer which will also help with the stability of the qform. Its recessed about .5 inch or a little less. The outer lip of the 5.25's are just slightly too big. I don't want to cut them to make them fit. I also want to put door speakers in but do not want to use a fouth amp for an additional set of comps. I'm considering the new fnq 3x comps. 6.5 - 4 - and tweet with three way crossover. The whole set is 4 ohm. This way I could nix the 4 and run the 5.25 and tweet in the qform the new 6.5 in the door and all running off the power 400.4 front channel outputs throught the 3way crossover. I'm not sure if the 5.25's will suffer because the crossover is designed to send that freq range to 4's and not 5's. My opin. is it will not matter much.

I can put my orig 6's and tweets in the rear door powered by power 400.4 rears

Then of course the eclipse alum. dvc 12's being driven by 500bd /1 each. I also just ordered the rockford PA2 in dash EQ. This should help significantly in controlling my sound. I can't stand switching through digital bass treble +/_ settings. I wish the pa2 had built in control for the rockford bass link.
But it does have clipping status indicators and the sensitivity is adjustable.



How are the type R's. I have always been a die hard rockford power comp fan. Especially the fnq's they have stood up to the challenge and still sound tight as if they were brand new. They still feel real tight. I have been scared to switch to anything with out hearing it in someones car. I don't trust the store displays its not the same environment.

 

I just upgraded my audio equipment and the vibration that i'm getting from the trunk lid is really annoying. You really can't hear it from inside but from the outside it sounds horrible. I'm running 2 12" diamond audio m6 with a phoenix gold tantrum 1200.1 amp in 2 separate 12" deathbox enclosures. I didn't change the front speakers but i did put an eclipse amp in to power the fronts. Not bad, but I'm looking to change the front speaker to get a better sound quality and get rid of the nasty rattling from the trunk without dynamat.

 

hey good luck on getting rid of all the trunk rattles WITHOUT using dynomat.... one thing you may want to look at is the trunk latch... that is where my worst rattle was coming from... i simply rubber coated it and the rattle was gone...

 

That's one biga$$ amp! Go PG! :wow:

I did the same as far as the latch and I fired the subs ( Two 10" PG Titanium Series,Tantrum 500.2) toward the seat. Between removing the stock sub and dropping the rear seat arm rest, I've got all the bass I'll ever need. I usually have the remote at 1/3 to 1/2. I could not get past the increased weight of Dynamat, Cascade, etc. I know I lose some bass but no rattles. Life is full of tradeoff's.

 

njtls, I am a true proponent of DM. I entirely stripped the interior of my 92 Teg and the improvement was incredible. Not only does it keep the sound from the stereo in, it help keep the road noise out. I am planning to do the same with my 03 TL-S.

 

I would Highly recommend doing dynamating the sub area. I have and it made a HUGE difference fir my old 99 TL.