TL: Too much power????
#1
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Too much power????
So - in my latest speadings, Im putting a small system in my car. Im a little concerned that the amp Im getting will be too much for the sum I have. As follows:
1 Infinity Perfect 10 DVQ - RMS 400w / Peak 1600w
to be powered by an
Alpine MRP-M650 mono - RMS 600w @ 2 ohms
Am I biting off more than my sub will comfortably chew??? I know they perfect is a monster of a 10! But this whole RMS thing has me all messed up.
Input anyone?
Thanks~
1 Infinity Perfect 10 DVQ - RMS 400w / Peak 1600w
to be powered by an
Alpine MRP-M650 mono - RMS 600w @ 2 ohms
Am I biting off more than my sub will comfortably chew??? I know they perfect is a monster of a 10! But this whole RMS thing has me all messed up.
Input anyone?
Thanks~
#2
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ps - the subs vqs will be wired in parallel to match the 2 ohm impedance of the amp.
Curiously.... Could I power one of the two vqs? Is that a stupid question? I couldn't find anything on that query...
Curiously.... Could I power one of the two vqs? Is that a stupid question? I couldn't find anything on that query...
#3
2000 WDP
If in vqs u mean voice coil no, dont just wire up one. And u should be fine power wise if u dont turn the gain on the amp up all the way. Its also kind of odd that the RMS power is 400 and max is 1600?!?!?
#5
Drifting
It is much better to have double or even triple the power that a driver is rated at, than having half the power it's rated for. When people run amps that are underpowering their driver (whether subs or speakers) they will most likely just crank the amp up. This causes dirty signal to go the driver, and will cause the driver to fail much sooner than having double or triple the rated power flying at it. With headroom, you can just keep your gains down, which generally ensures that you'll be sending clean power to your speakers. This keeps them alive and well, and playing for you...
#6
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+1 Thats why many ppl blow there subs having the gain all the way I have my gain right at 1/3 to keep the signal power clean. I'm pushing about 1500 rms watts to my 12's they are rated 600 rms each.
#7
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#8
Your gain still may not be in the correct place. It isn't a volume knob and shouldn't be set like one. The reason amplifiers have to have gain controls is because of the different output voltages head units have. If the output voltages were regulated (like home audio), then there would be no need for a gain control. It should be adjusted to the head unit, not the speaker it is running.
#9
It is much better to have double or even triple the power that a driver is rated at, than having half the power it's rated for. When people run amps that are underpowering their driver (whether subs or speakers) they will most likely just crank the amp up. This causes dirty signal to go the driver, and will cause the driver to fail much sooner than having double or triple the rated power flying at it. With headroom, you can just keep your gains down, which generally ensures that you'll be sending clean power to your speakers. This keeps them alive and well, and playing for you...
#10
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actually the gain is set correctly i did the whole multi meter and all http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...7/RMSchart.jpg
#11
actually the gain is set correctly i did the whole multi meter and all http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...7/RMSchart.jpg
That's good to hear. I prefer other methods to setting gains that don't rely on manufacturer ratings which are often inaccurate. But that method should get you close enough where you won't have any problems.
When I headed up the warranty department at a small speaker manufacturer, I would always ask the customer where their gains were set on the amp. If they knew right away where it was, this indicated that their gains may have been set by guessing. So when I see someone specify like you did, I get suspicious.
#12
Drifting
I don't fully agree with that. Too much power is too much power. Granted a rating is a suggestion, not necessarily an exact figure. But when you are running double or triple the power to a speaker you best know what you are doing or you will have a smelly speaker before long. However match the amp and the subs and set the gains correctly and don't be dumb with the volume knob and you won't have any worries.
#13
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Good posts!
It sounds as though proper tuning will put me and my gear all in a happy little zone!
Im sure I'll have new questions once I get it all i hand and am ready to make it happen.
thanks guys!
It sounds as though proper tuning will put me and my gear all in a happy little zone!
Im sure I'll have new questions once I get it all i hand and am ready to make it happen.
thanks guys!
#14
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well - my shopping today ended up with two amps coming home with me...
I have an Alpine MRP-M650 & an MRP-M500
Torn between the two...will have to make an appropriate selection of one and sell the other on here. Which one to use???
Its interesting to see that they both have two 30amp fuses. I want to assume they 500 is going to potentially put out as much power as the 650...?
The 650 is about 4 inches longer than the 500 - I like how small the 500 is.
What do you all think?
I have an Alpine MRP-M650 & an MRP-M500
Torn between the two...will have to make an appropriate selection of one and sell the other on here. Which one to use???
Its interesting to see that they both have two 30amp fuses. I want to assume they 500 is going to potentially put out as much power as the 650...?
The 650 is about 4 inches longer than the 500 - I like how small the 500 is.
What do you all think?
#15
Drifting
The fusing is dependent on the current draw. So, if both amps have the same amount of fusing, they will draw the same current to put out their respective power. I'd use the 650, but that's just me. More headroom is better to have. Plus, if/when you decide to up your system, you might not have to buy another amp, just a new sub. Just my though. It's really your call, since it's your setup...
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