how much power can a 02 tl-s alternator handle, as far as audio??

i've got three amps which i'll run at
1. 500X2 @ 2ohms
2. 100X2 @ 4ohms
3. 80X2 @ 4 ohms


so basically, that's 1360 watts rms i'll be running. do i gotta wind the alternator or something?

 

I believe its 120 amps..so at 14.4 volts (normal charging voltage) it will put out over 1700 watts. You should be fine, but I would get a capacitor (1 or 1.5 farad) and maybe get an Optima Yellow top battery.

I have 1100 watts in my system, and everything is fine

 

coulda sworn that the charging voltage was 12, mabye i'm wrong....?

 

i hurd in houston theres a place that rebuilds ur alternator for like $170 any1 comments?

 

nope, charges at 14.4 - thats what my readout says on my capacitor also. This makes sure that your battery doesnt fall below 12 volts when you have lots of drain on it.

 

you tell us...I mean did you actually talk to them or what? The lowest I have seen is $350 and that was to bump our alternator up to 190 amps. $170 is way low - you usually get what you pay for.

 

shit i rilli haven't lookd into it or asked around yet buyin all the products first, probably get it installed by march.

 

my cap reads 14.0 and I have a yellow top to. I get alot of dim lights and its kinda pissing me off.

 

how much power do you have? I dont have any light problems and I dont even have a yellow top.

 

a cap in most cases is a waste of money. It does not actually create power, it only will help keep voltage at a more constant level. The down side to them is that if you get one thinking it will help with current draw, then you would be wrong. Basically the cap will just be one more thing to try and draw current; and, on a positive note, it will help some with noise suppression. In most all cases it is better to get an Optima battery (yellow or red top) and upgrade your battery cables to a solid 4 gauge. Let's put it this way, i have roughly 20 1 & 1.2 farad caps laying around my apartment and shop and i don't even bother selling them unless someone is hell bent on getting a cap.

 

neeto, unlike an extra battery that does take up extra draw (up to 15 amps) a capacitor can charge and discharge in less than 1 second, so the draw is not an issue at all. and yes they smooth out the voltage and help with noise suppression, so if you want to get rid of those caps...send them my way

 

Or just buy fully-regulated amps...

Seriously, ou, have you ever really done an A/B listening test with and without a cap? Seriously?

 

Seriously...seriously no, but I do know the physics behind them - that proves they are a worthy addition for high wattage systems. regulated amps...Kicker, JL Audio, and many others are also very good (probably better than a cap w/o amps of that capability).

 

Ou is right, 14.4 is normal charging voltage. That extra 2.4 volts above 12 is how we charge our battery!

I have about 1100 watts as well. Major dimming lights when I crank it (can't tell you about headlights but every interior light bumps along with the music). I have no cap. I plan to get one when the $ is available. I certainly can tell when the system could use a burst of cap power. The first bass hit is solid and then the next get a little muddy. I'll A/B it and let you know.

And a second battery does create an extra draw. The only purpose for a second battery is so you can shut your car off and jam out a little longer.

ciau

 

you think that the cap will take care of your dimming problem?

 

I also have about 1100 watts, well 738 for the subs and 100x4 for the mains, but they probably dont get near that much because they are cut off at 80 hz...anyway, I dont have any dimming with my cap. I have it setup right in the ski hole area so I can see the voltage, and when it hits hard, the volts will drop to 13.5 or 12.7 but never lower, and they immediately go back up to 14.4 or so. I think the cap is a good way to level the voltage off - its not perfect, nor is it even made to stop your lights from dimming - I am just telling you my personal experience.

 

OU, try bypassing the cap and hearing if you hear a diff... or better yet, have a friend open and close the circuit and see if you can tell whether it's in or out.

I understand the physics too, but theory is one thing, and as you say, real experience is another. You shouldn't do anything without being able to see the benefit. I've heard people say they heard it and people say they didn't, and I don't think any of them are lying, but I think it varies with equipment, battery, etc.

 

really I dont care that much to do that, and everything is all hidden and tight - so it would be a pain in the ass. I know you are "anti Capacitor" for whatever reason, but they do work and are usefull, I also got it because it had the voltage readout (I know you can get those by themselves, but who cares) - they dont hurt anything at all