i got this amp alpine MRD-M501 and im looking to buy some subwoofer with enclosure and i think i found one but i need your advice guys what do you think

link to my amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-417vOuR...-MRD-M501.html

and sub with enclosure
http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-Type-R-12...d=p3286.c0.m14

and also i need to help how to put everything togheter where get the signal to amp and etc what to use... do i need fuse or better look for 2 ohms subs or 4 ohms or something that is in your mind that would help me...
thanks from the begining

 

My "help" is to tell you that if you have limited experience in this, find someone who can do the install for you. You can then observe while helping, and take notes/pics, for you to do this on your own later.

 

i dont feel like im gonna spend even a penny for some to touch this i want to do this by my self i know some about electronics but not much about audio

 

I wouldn't get that setup.

how about 2 8's? it'll do good off that power

 

why ? explain, this amp makes 550W at 2 ohms

 

I agree... 2 e8s should do very well off 550, and they'll give you a 2 ohm final load...

 

2 sundown e8's in the right box would sound cleaner and be louder than the type r in that pos box.

 

This... More cone area, and better sq. I've been nothing but dissapointed with the few type ARgh's I've heard... They sound terrible IMO, but I have to admit, they are pretty loud...

 

so guy my question is what to get my budget is about 150$ for sub and box can be used and i'd like to have the same brand of a sub as amp is...

 

what about these ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...STRK:MESELX:IT

 

150 for sub AND box? that's almost impossible.

 

these subs are my friends i can get them for 80$ i will do my own box. but what are you guys this if i use them togheter can i use them at 2 ohms ? how many W will i get ?

 

they're decent.

if you build a box, do about 4.2 cubes@38 hz

 

They're alright... Like I said though, 2 E8's in a realitively small ported box tuned nice and low... That'll be a winner, and you'll be able to get the most out of your amp. Plus Woofercooker on ca.com is (or was at least) selling E8's for like $55 each or something crazy cheap like that. And he's in NY so cheaper shipping...

 

yeah i'd do e8's

 

finally i got everything but i still not sure... im adding sub to a factory system and where should i get the input signal for my mono amp ? do i need line converter or something like that ? guys dont be rude please

 

or should i take the input from oem amp to my mono amp ?

 

what did u get?

 

i traded my alpine MRD M501 for MRD M300 and two infinity subs reference 1230W

 

so anyone can give me an advice ?

 

Get signal from your stock sub. Hook up a LOC to it on one end and the other end to the amp.

 

i have no stock sub "_" i have a CLS

 

Run the loc off your 6x9's when you open your trunk the wires are plain as day and stops you from having to remove the hu.

 

that sounds clear but i need advice also what type of LOC should i use for that ? link to ebay would be perfect...

 

I'll see if I can find the one am running real quick

 

I'm pretty sure this is the same one I have.It's only 15-16 bucks shipped.I have used others but this is the only one thats held up so far and I was running 2 1600wrms amps from it no problems.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-AXXESS-ALOC6...d=p3286.c0.m14

 

okie dokie thanks man ! ima try run this stuff next week wish me luck

 

one more question im gonna need to plug somewhere remote wire but where is the best and the easiest location to reach in my CL

 

DEI info:
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|black/blue |- |passenger fuse box *1 |
| POWER UNLOCK|orange |- |passenger fuse box *1 |
| LOCK MOTOR|white/red | |drivers fuse box *2 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|yellow | |drivers fuse box *2 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|lt. green/red | |passenger MUX module *3 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|red/black | |passenger kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|red/yellow | |left of steering column |
| HEADLIGHTS|blue/red |- |left of steering column |
| DOOR TRIGGER|black/white |- |passenger fuse box |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|blue/green |- |drivers fuse box |
| HOOD PIN|yellow |- |passenger fuse box |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|white |+ |passenger MUX module *3 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms with lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms with unlock | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|blue |- |drivers door key cylinder |
| TACHOMETER|blue | |drivers shock tower *4 |
| SPEED SENSE|blue/white | |cruise control module *5 |
| BRAKE WIRE|white/black |+ |brake switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|lt. green/blue |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|blue & blue/yellow |- |left of steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|red/blu - red/yel |A |drivers window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/yel - blu/wht |A |RF window switch |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|grn/yel - grn/red |A |relays left of fuse box |
| RADIO 12V|white/yellow |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|white/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|red/black |+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|blu/grn - gry/blk | |at speaker |
| RF SPEAKER|red/grn - brn/blk | |at speaker |
| LR SPEAKER|blu/yel - gry/wht | |at speaker |
| RR SPEAKER|red/yel - brn/wht | |at speaker |

Heres a list of some of our cars wirring.

Althou not the correct spot,I have mine from my cig lighter. Its ignition switched.When the cars on,the amps are on.
If you tap off the HU for a remote switch then amplifiers will turn on and off with the HU.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/200307131...net/sound.html

 

im still waiting for LOC is there any way to hook it up temporairly with RCA cable only ?