I had some 5-watt 4-ohm resistors available, so I installed them with my tweets to better match the level to the mids. So far it seems to have really helped. (Just did it this afternoon--so I haven't spent a lot of time listening to it yet).

I was wondering if anybody could answer a couple of questions...

First, by using a single resistor instead of two (L-pad), how much might have I shifted the crossover slope? (6-ohm tweeter, xover is 12dB/oct centered at 3.5k).

Second, it seems to me that speaker manufacturers do the same thing--most tweet adjustment jumpers (that I have seen) only seem to put a different resistor inline, not implement selectable L-pads. Are my observations true?

Oh, one other question: what does the "J" mean in "5W1RJ"? The R is interchangeable with the ohm symbol, right? (So 5W1{Ohm} is the same as 5W1R, right?)

 

Don't remember the "j", sorry.

Technically, the slope remains the same, but the xover point and the xover behavior (filter shape) would change.

I don't know the exact answer. I have noticed that factory xovers seem to go amp-xover-driver or amp-resistor in series-xover-driver, depending on the switch or taps you use.

Experimenting with the basic calculators, I get that the values would be out of whack, indicating that the behavior of the filter would probably include a bump maybe a little higher than the corner freq before starting to drop - in other words, I think it would probably "ring" or resonate around the xover freq - with I THINK is now around 4400 or so.

I regularly used series resistors in place of more involved L pads... but I put them in series with the tweeter on the tweeter side of the xover, not on the amp side of the xover. I'm not certain what happens when they go on the amp side.

Maybe tomorrow I will take the 6 ohm LPGs (which I have a stange hunch Diamond sent you) and test their behavior with a filter like that. Can you read the values of the xover parts on your xover?

 

Hi,

Oh, it's not that important--most of the resistors were mounted with the printed sides unviewable, and the coils weren't labeled. I did put the resistor on the tweeter side, btw, not the amp side.

What I'm really trying to figure out is if I should expect a bump or a hole at 3.5k.

 

I think you'll have a hole.

Might have a bump at 4400 tho... but that's pretty PFA'd.