It’s been awhile since I’ve last posted. I’ve been happy with my system (details later) since I installed it about a year ago (2002 TLS). It’s been running properly but I’m having problems now.

WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON!!! Help me…..

Bumps on the road will cut off my front speakers (5.25” coaxials) as if a wire came loose. Hitting another bump will sometimes bring it back. Typically, my front left will go out (about 4/5 of the time). Sometimes it’s the front right (the other 1/5 of the time). But rarely will they both be out at the same time (I guess may be 5% of the time when I have problems). Here is the kicker:
- If the system is playing very loud (just before the sound starts to distort), I won’t have any speakers go out.
- If a speaker goes out, I can gun the volume and the dead speaker will come back.
- Here is the real kicker: If I have a speaker out, activating the lock/unlock switch will bring it back. Also pushing the “open trunk” button will do the same. These two switched has worked every single time! Remember, the “open trunk” button is electronic.
I’ve checked my connections and they look fine. This is truly and anomaly.

Here is my system in my 02 TLS:

Signal path: From the stock head unit, I bypassed the Bose EQ. The speaker line out to a hi-level to low-level converter short interconnect to an active crossover (Audiosource 2X I believe). Signal out from the crossover is the front L&R and two subwoofer channels. This signal is sent to an unbalance-to-balanced line-driver/converter (Adcom accessory). Up to this point, everything is still under the dash or passenger foot well. The amp is located in the trunk (I forgot the model number but it’s a Adcom 4x75 watts per channel). The signal is sent to the amp from the line-driver/converter with two 20ft balanced cable with XLR connections (one for the front L&R and one for the sub channel). From the amp, two channels are connected to the JL 5.25” coaxials in the front and two channels are bridged to drive the stock sub. Direct speaker wire were used for each speaker (did not tap into stock speaker lines). Yeah, I need a real sub. I was quite suprised what a real amp can do for that stock sub. Also rear door speakers are disconnected.

Power: I’ve got a 4 gauge cable to the amp.

Remote: the remote line going to the a) crossover, b) line driver/converter (also serves as the power line), and c) amp is from a relay that is triggered by the line originally used to trigger the stock subwoofer amp.

I don’t know what other useful information I can provide. Please advise or ask me questions.

BTW, I usually run my system so loud I don’t often the problem but I can’t keep this up when I have passengers or I’m listening to talk radio. :banghead:

 

not even a show of sympathy?