View Poll Results: which sub
JL AUDIO 10"w7
7
100.00%
MTX AUDIO 10" 9500
0
0%
Voters: 7. You may not vote on this poll
CL: which sub?
#2
Though if given the opportunity, I would choose neither. There are better subs for less, and one must also contend with the fact that these subs are MASSIVE and power hungry, so significant thought must be given to the front stage, processing, amplification, deadening, etc. The sub alone is just a small player. What is the box? The BOX matters more than the sub, and all those things mentioned above matter more than the sub as well.
#3
Though if given the opportunity, I would choose neither. There are better subs for less, and one must also contend with the fact that these subs are MASSIVE and power hungry, so significant thought must be given to the front stage, processing, amplification, deadening, etc. The sub alone is just a small player. What is the box? The BOX matters more than the sub, and all those things mentioned above matter more than the sub as well.
#5
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#11
Here's what I mean by specific:
(examples)
Does the system seem to have a hole in the response curve?
Does the bass have a problem integrating with the front stage?
Are they out of sync or does the bass seem to clearly be coming from the trunk and not all around?
Do some songs sound a lot more visceral and punchy than others on your system, yet on a home system or on earphones they all sound good? (This indicates cancellation effects are present, killing some of the frequencies' response)
There is a great chance that just by optimizing the T1 in the right box (I'm thinking low tuned ported), and with a little tweaking, you will get a lot more out of what you have. THEN, you can take the money and appropriately build up a front stage (which I haven't heard squat about from you) or get a processor and handle things in a new, much more precise way.
A lot of systems I fix up for others just have a ton of bass, but what people really are wanting is vastly improved mid-bass. And that's not coming out of the trunk, or at least it better not be.
I think once you exhaust everything your current sub can do (with the right box), then consider upgrading your sub.
(examples)
Does the system seem to have a hole in the response curve?
Does the bass have a problem integrating with the front stage?
Are they out of sync or does the bass seem to clearly be coming from the trunk and not all around?
Do some songs sound a lot more visceral and punchy than others on your system, yet on a home system or on earphones they all sound good? (This indicates cancellation effects are present, killing some of the frequencies' response)
There is a great chance that just by optimizing the T1 in the right box (I'm thinking low tuned ported), and with a little tweaking, you will get a lot more out of what you have. THEN, you can take the money and appropriately build up a front stage (which I haven't heard squat about from you) or get a processor and handle things in a new, much more precise way.
A lot of systems I fix up for others just have a ton of bass, but what people really are wanting is vastly improved mid-bass. And that's not coming out of the trunk, or at least it better not be.
I think once you exhaust everything your current sub can do (with the right box), then consider upgrading your sub.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Mooresville NC
Age: 39
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 0
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10 Posts
Nice info fm. Yea and by built to spec do you mean it's a store bought box or you actually found a builder and had it made? All of those subs are nay in my book. But of the listed the dub 7. But youd never catch one in my cars./ thread
#16
short version: Get a box made for the T1 that is tuned low ported (my guess is 28hz would rock), and use the money saved and spend it where it really matters, which is up front, where you can actually hear music.
#18
Racer
#19
Drifting