I just installed my 2 12" JL's and a Rockford 500x2 amp. It hits real hard but i hate the trunk rattle. Does anyone know of any ways to stop the trunk rattle? I know its pretty much impossible to stop all of it but i would like to stop as much as possible.

marc

 

Are the JL's W3 or W0? I would like to know how to stop it as well. Ant input would be nice. Thanks
Also do you have any pics??

[ 08-05-2001: Message edited by: NOLACLS ]

 

I have the 12W3's. I don't have any pics at the moment but i will take some and post them.

marc

 

You probably have 2 problems....ONE would be the license plate as it only has 2 screws in it, unless you already added the other two.

The other problem is this....if you take the carpeted lining off the trunk lid, you will see a small cable, like the cable for the brakes on a bike, that goes to the latch for the trunk release....this cable vibrates against the metal...you need to secure it with some wire ties or something to stop it from moving.

I did this on Ernie's (eclipse23) CL and it took most of the rattle away.

 

StreetEffectz, Would you recommend Dyno mating the trunk lid?? My whole trunk seems to rattle and i can't stand it. I will try something with the cables and see how that works. Thanks again.

marc

 

NO, dynamat WILL NOT stop rattles......

Here, this is what I tell EVERYONE who asks about dynamat.....

Why does something "rattle"....becuase it MOVES. If you put dynamat on it, it will STILL move Dynamat is good for eliminating (although not totally) road noise within the car and for deadening sound, just not for fixing rattles.

 

Now could i eliminate all this myself? would you suggest maybe you having a look at it? i live in philly and you are in NJ. let me know what you think.

marc

 

This is DEFINITELY something you can do yourself. Of course, if you would like me to do it or look at it, no problem at all, but definitely a DIY project.

 

On my Accord Coupe used Dynamat hoodliner between the metal braces and license plate to stop most rattles. Other modification's were done to deal with rest.

 

One thing that works with more powerful subs, i did this with my 2 12" boston pro's, is put the box at the rear of the trunk, with the subs facing forward, you may have to tweak the amp and bass a little, but this takes care of a lot of the rattling. The only other way is to build a box that is totally sealed from the trunk, ex: subs firring through the ski pass through and leaving the arm rest down. Thats my $.02

 

I have the same problem. I have (2) 12W6's in a sealed box in my trunk powered by a nice RF AMP. And rattles my car to death.

 

Yeah that really drives me crazy. If you hear my car a block away you hear nice bass, but once you get close, its like all rattle. Im gonna try out what StreetEffectz told me to do. Ill post pics and let you guys know how it worked out for me.

marc

 

A block away!! You must hear nothing BUT bass in your car.

I have 2 12" Eclipse Aluminums in my car powered by a JBL BP1200.1 amp. With the volume halfway up you can barely hear the system a few feet away from the car. That's with NO extra sound deadening being done. Inside the car the bass is very good. It plays very low (better than I was expecting) and blends very well with the system. I made sure my car was set up for SQ though, not SPL. I have no desire to be heard a block away, not do I want to hear a car a block away. Just my 2¢.

 

Actually in my car i can still hear the music good. I was surprised that the bass didn't over power everything. Depending on the song, you can hear it more then a block away. Its not that i need it like that, its just how i play it. I like to be in the car and have my seat vibrate and just hear that bass pound. Just the way i like it.

marc