MattySnags

Hey guys, brand new here so this is my first post haha. I have a few quick questions regarding replacing the stock bose system in my 2003 acura tl with an aftermarket head unit. As of right now I have stock speakers and bose system and a 12' cvr and amp in the trunk. So I am just hoping to gain some knowledge about simply replacing the head unit and powering the speakers. I am not worried about retaining use of the 9' stock subwoofer.


What is required to replace the bose system with an aftermarket HU whilist retaining use of the stock speakers?

From what i've seen so far I would need a wiring harness and also a mold so that the hu will fit into the dash. I have also seen mixed things on how the speakers will sound with a new headunit... I am new to all car audio as I'm 16 and would just like to know if I would run into any difficulties with what I am planning to do.

Thanks in advance!

ParaSurfer1979

i HAD a cl-s6 and i pud a fold out in mine and it just wasnt as clean an install as i liked. Id go for putting infinity 2 ways in doors and rear since they are 2ohm like stock bose soeakers an keep the deck as it is. Thats just me. clean dash with a clean/clear sound. what did you have in mind? welcome to the board...

fourthmeal

IMO, the stock speakers are perfectly fine with an aftermarket head unit. HOWEVER, you want to set the crossover point to 90-100hz highpass to pull the bass out of those poor little speakers. They are efficient, and when properly crossed they will sound OK. The sub idea you have is fine, just remove the stock sub and cover up the hole with some sort of acoustically transparent cloth like two layers of speaker grille cloth (to keep the brake light from bleeding through and lighting up in your rear view mirror.) Details, details!

If you want to pony up a bit, you can immensely improve the sound quality of this system by using an active crossover. This would involve a processor in-line w/ your factory stuff, and you can even do this with some new amps made today. The idea is to give the Bose front speakers a cross point of 90-100hz highpass, AND ~3kHz LOWPASS. Then, install some small tweeters in the A-pillar area and set those to ~3kHz HIGHPASS. I did this with $8 tweeters, and I can tell you that I am a picky sonofabitch when it comes to audio.

fourthmeal

Oh and consider this required reading for the hobby and quite a good one www.bcae1.com read it page by page, cover to cover, and play with all the calculators and animations. It can teach you better than a professor at your doorstep.

ParaSurfer1979

U can also use the wires going to the sub in the trunk to your amp so that u can adjust the sub via the oem deck. The signal going into the stock sub is x-over at 80hz. I did this using an Audio Control LC7 processor in my 08 Accord. I really dont see why it would hurt to add you new sub while continueing to use the bose sub too if its not blown. It his will let you drop the trunk sub even lower hz while letting the bose sub continue to handle the mid bass.

In my Accord i swapped out the rear deck sub and dropped in a Kicker c8 free air 8 and dynamat'd the whole rear deck to handle the added bass w/o getting vibration. Most folks didn't like that idea but i wasn't looking to be the next "Yo!!! Boy" in the neighborhood while still having room for my wheelchair when i had passengers in my car. Keep us informed. As you see we're glad to help with whatever set-up you choose works for you because that's what matters first.

fourthmeal

The issue is multi-faceted, Papa (and OP)

One is source locations relative to your ear. They would be different subwoofer bass sources, and they are not equally distant from your ear. This will result in all sorts of interference patterns aka cancellation and unwanted boosting of seemingly random frequencies.

Two is the unwanted pressurization of the cabin from two bass sources, one infinite baffle, one a sealed or ported box. Again, different response patterns meaning unwanted interference.

Three, Dissimilar subwoofer responses via different amplification and frequency crossover points, again here we go w/ acoustic interference

Four, the hole that needs to be present in the deck to allow the other sub to do its thing...its not open. Bass from the other sub will have a hard time actually being audible, especially in the lower mid-bass region which is the cross point target.

Five, and this kinda ties it all together... the aftermarket sub if its worth anything (and I mean also the box its in) should outperform the stock sub in every class, so the Bose is literally just in the way.

The stock sub can't do mid-bass while another sub does actual bass unless of course we get to talk about a smart crossover setup that feeds the stock sub a narrow range such as 150hz to 50hz. And one thing to keep in mind about mid-bass is that not only is it highly directional, it is very depending on time alignment. One little IB sub in the back would make for mono mid-bass too, and this renders one of the best parts about stereo completely useless.


Trust me, run the aftermarket sub low pass ~100hz, and if you can cross the fronts at the same 100hz high pass, they'll be less strained.

MattySnags

Thanks for all the quick responses. Most of this seems like another language since I'm completely new to the scene. I'm at school right now so I'll check back later tonight.

jwp1013

iTrader: (2)

I agree with fourthmeal, having two different subs in two different locations will make it sounds really bad. Also, upgrading to just an open air sub isn't worth the money unless you need the space that bad. No matter how much money you spend on a open air sub it wont sound near as good as an enclosed sub at near the same price. I have two 12's in a vented box, so I haven't removed the stock sub I just unplugged the amp and don't have a signal running to it. It will sound better if you remove the stock sub like fourthmeal also said, but since I have plenty of bass I haven't done it yet.

Back to your original question, the stock speakers will sound better with a quality after market h/u (don't expect to be amazed though). As far as installing the new h/u all you should need is a wiring harness and a dash kit for either a single or double din depending on what h/u your installing. Make sure you get a good dash kit tha

jwp1013

iTrader: (2)

I agree with fourthmeal, running the stock and after market sub will just throw off the frequencies. I would just add the after market sub and remove the stock sub. While your at it go ahead and unplug the factory amp since its right behind the rear passenger seat and you have to remove the seat anyways to get to the factory sub. I don't suggest going with an open air sub unless you need the space that bad since you can get much better sound for less with an enclosed sub.

Back to your original questions, the after market h/u will make the stock speakers sound better, but still not great. I didn't try what fourthmeal recommended with adding the tweeters and everything else I just upgraded my speakers. As far as installing the new h/u all you will need is a wiring harness and a dash kit. That also depends how you have your amp hooked up to the factory h/u right now. Make sure that you get the right dash kit either a single or double din kit depending on which h/u your going to use and make sure it is well made and matches the other plastic in the car. My kit matches perfectly, but I have seen others that are a different shade of black and/or have a different shine. So that is important in making sure the install looks nice and clean.

jwp1013

iTrader: (2)

sorry for the dbl post it didn't register on my computer that the first one went through.