typeSmaximum

What size is it, 8"? Could I simply change it out with another better 8" or fit a 10" in the same place without changing the rest of the sterio? Has anyone done this for better base and factory look? I may then get some tweeter pods at a later time.

Thanks.

oracion

The OEM sub is very thin. I'm not sure if you can find one like that.

typeSmaximum

has anyone done this? The back hangs into the trunk, so I think if one was thicker, it would be ok.

shawhite

i believe that there was a post about this same topic the other day check it out...see if this helps any

http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=24270

typeSmaximum

Thanks, at least I have the correct size now. They say http://www.illusionaudio.com/, though I can't find anything?

Las Vegas TLS

When I see this subject come up, I always think of Bose car audio being rated at 1 ohm. If someone where to swap out the factory Bose speakers and keep the factory head unit/amp, remember that 1 ohm is going to be less effiecient than 4 ohm speakers.

When Acura uses a 100 watt Bose amp for the sub woofer, it is rated at 1 ohm. In theory if you where to run it in 4 ohms it would only produce 25 watts.

I think maybe a good choice would be to try to use the lowest ohm speaker as possible. Maybe the Orion HCCA series speakers?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

It's not gonna happen...The torsion bars that support your trunk run underneath the sub. There is no room for an aftermarket sub.

Unless your willing to have someone gut your trunk, put hydraulic lifts to support your trunk lid, you're not gonna get another sub in there. Look how freakin shallow the factory sub is. It not even as thick as a normal 6.5" midrange speaker.

Brewboy

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

I didn't forget the agony you went through. I'm waiting on Ron to finish up a few jobs before he tackles mine. See bottom of sig.

shawhite

i understand that it is shallow but illusionaudio makes a sub that looks exactly like the sub that is in the tl...except it only comes in 10 or 12 inches....

Closer

You really need to stick your head in your truck and look at this sucker. Nothing aftermarket will fit there unless you get a torch and cut the crossmember thats behind the sub. Once you look at it, you'll know what everyone is talking about.

Brewboy

Actually the cross member is fairly easy to get out. Just drill out the 4 spot welds with a 1/2" bit or so and it will fall right off. To put back on if you need to later, just bolt it back in place thru the holes you just drilled.

Closer

if you cut this sucker out, with the tension bars for the trunk still
work? I know they're fastened to the cross member, but don't
know if it has to be connected to work.

typeSmaximum

Thanks for all the feedback. Would be nice to upgrade, and still look stock. The stock system is not very good, and the bose in other cars like Infiniti is much better? Not sure I want to go all out with the audio system, but starting to look like I have to if I eant better sound.

Brewboy

Not sure what your asking, but I don't see a reason to remove the cross member and leave the tension rods in place. If you remove both, no, the trunk would not stay open as is, so you would have to add hydraulic lifters or actuators or ? to help keep the trunk open.

t.diddy

I replaced the 9" stock with a 10" pioneer free air subwoofer with some minor modification to the rear deck sheet metal. The cross member was removed and the torsion bars were mounted to the metal speaker cage using the existing gray plastic clip. Trunk still opens and closes normally.

Sub is currently hooked up to the OEM amp, but will soon be upgraded. Sound is much improved, system has a deeper truer bass.

Closer

perfect. thanks.
Ofcourse, you'd get this. Got any pics?

t.diddy

I forgot to mention, I had to cut away some of the plastic from inside of speaker grill in order for it to sit flush and keep the stock look.

typeSmaximum

Sweet, I knew someone did this! You did all the work yourself, how long did it take? I didn't understand how you re-mounted the bars?