Questions about installing a sub
Questions about installing a sub
A quick couple of questions about cleaning up and adding to the rear low bass.
I do not want to put a massive sub and/or enclosure in the car. I'm thinking more about putting in a smallish 8"-10" sub up by the existing 6x9" mouting locations.
1) Can the inputs to the current 6x9" be fed into a separate "sub-amp" even though they are amplified?
2) Best bang for the buck... Infinity Basslink for $150 or Inifinity Perfect 10.1 for $75 + separate amp (assuming sizes fit)?
3) Any other issues I'm not thinking of?
I do not want to put a massive sub and/or enclosure in the car. I'm thinking more about putting in a smallish 8"-10" sub up by the existing 6x9" mouting locations.
1) Can the inputs to the current 6x9" be fed into a separate "sub-amp" even though they are amplified?
2) Best bang for the buck... Infinity Basslink for $150 or Inifinity Perfect 10.1 for $75 + separate amp (assuming sizes fit)?
3) Any other issues I'm not thinking of?
i think 8s would fit better up in the stock 6x9 space. ill look for the post but i have seen people mount 8in woofers in the 6x9 locations using special mounting spacers brackets they made themselves. there are JLw-0 8 in subs. from what i have read in car audio forums people seem most satisfied with kicker comp vr 8 in subs. my roomate just bought a pair of these for around 80 dollars shipped on ebay. i am going to help him install them in his stock rear 6x9 area of his car.
you would have to hook up the subs to an aftermarket amp and then send the inputs of the amp (the rcas) to the headunit. you can use a line level connector to connect it to the wires out of the stock headunit currently used for the 6x9s.
you would have to hook up the subs to an aftermarket amp and then send the inputs of the amp (the rcas) to the headunit. you can use a line level connector to connect it to the wires out of the stock headunit currently used for the 6x9s.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/449103/3
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...hlight=bracket
here are the links
i am interested in doing something like this as well to save trunk space
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...hlight=bracket
here are the links
i am interested in doing something like this as well to save trunk space
Thanks Accsueprstar!
I was thinking about designing something myself but it's good to see that someone has done most of the work already. I'm going to make mine out of Aluminum on one of our CNC mills at work so I'll be sure to take some shots when I get them finished.
I was thinking about designing something myself but it's good to see that someone has done most of the work already. I'm going to make mine out of Aluminum on one of our CNC mills at work so I'll be sure to take some shots when I get them finished.
Originally posted by accsueprstar
you would have to hook up the subs to an aftermarket amp and then send the inputs of the amp (the rcas) to the headunit. you can use a line level connector to connect it to the wires out of the stock headunit currently used for the 6x9s.
you would have to hook up the subs to an aftermarket amp and then send the inputs of the amp (the rcas) to the headunit. you can use a line level connector to connect it to the wires out of the stock headunit currently used for the 6x9s.
Headunit -> aftermarket sub-only (1 channel) amp -> subs
Correct?
OR
Headunit -> stock amp -> attenuator -> sub-only amp -> subs
OR
Headunit -> stock amp -> sub-only amp -> subs.
I'm not looking to replace the stock amp for the regular speakers since it is more than adequate (maybe later) and the subs would need their own amp anyways. My issue is that I'd like to just get a line level output from the headunit, but how?...splice the wires? Or can the feeds going to the 6x9's right now be the input to the subs/amp?
That's the real thing I need to know.
tuan209:
50 dollars more? how much would that make the HD's? you can get the CL-61 for 150 shipped at thezeb or outerlimitsaudio. I have not heard the HDs myself. i can vouch for the CL-61s though. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK for SURE. actually i remember thezeb had the carbon fiber HD 6.5 component set for 199 on clearance. that is a good buy. I had diamond audio hex s600S components in my previous car and the CL-61s have better midbass. i am very pleased with the CDTs.
dan martin:
np. sounds good. keep us posted when you have them done
lung fu mo shi:
Headunit -> aftermarket sub-only (1 channel) amp -> subs
is correct. splice a line level converter from the 6x9 wires that come out of the headunit. splite it before it reaches the stock amp so you wont have to pass thorught the stock amp. then just run rcas b/w the line level converter and your sub amp. and just run wires from your sub amp to your subs.
50 dollars more? how much would that make the HD's? you can get the CL-61 for 150 shipped at thezeb or outerlimitsaudio. I have not heard the HDs myself. i can vouch for the CL-61s though. BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK for SURE. actually i remember thezeb had the carbon fiber HD 6.5 component set for 199 on clearance. that is a good buy. I had diamond audio hex s600S components in my previous car and the CL-61s have better midbass. i am very pleased with the CDTs.
dan martin:
np. sounds good. keep us posted when you have them done
lung fu mo shi:
Headunit -> aftermarket sub-only (1 channel) amp -> subs
is correct. splice a line level converter from the 6x9 wires that come out of the headunit. splite it before it reaches the stock amp so you wont have to pass thorught the stock amp. then just run rcas b/w the line level converter and your sub amp. and just run wires from your sub amp to your subs.
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eh you definately need an amp b.c the stock amp will NOT push enough power to the Components. i tried plug and play already. soudns worse than stock! i have a 300/4 JL amp running my speakers
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