ok, from what i know about ported boxes, they can hit harder, but you have to have them properly designed. kinda confused on one thing.

so, let's say i tune my box to 33 Hz, does that mean all the sounds around that range will sound much better, but then the bass that is much higher or lower won't hit as hard as sealed??

and besides sq and space, is there ANY other downside to going with a ported box?

is there differnce in sound between slot ported and tube ported?

 

The only draw back I personally think is the size. I have pics of my trunk and my box is freakin huge if u send me your e-mail I can send u a pic of my ported box.

SQ wise I think ported sounds better. If u have a full system u have the midbass doing all the work down to 80hz and then the woofer takes over, so I am saying the ported box dosnt hit much of the higher notes I noticed. Remember all the expensive studios always using ported.

 

send pic to nasarawan@gmail.com

thanks bud

 

is it possible to have 2 12's ported in the trunk of a 2nd gen tl?? or is there not enough room? anyone have 2 12's ported?

 

Yes its possible, But I am thinking if the box is to big it might not be able to get in the trunk.

http://www.ultaudio.com/pages/Detailed/380.html

heres my car on the website of the people who hooked me up.... check out there other installs to.

Ill personally take a better pic tommorow during the day and e-mail them to u.
In the link thats my box, and it goes all the way accross. So its a pretty big box. The SQ is also amazing.

 

damn bro lookin hot!! if i'm not mistaken, that looks like a w7...?

that site is fuckin sick!!!! love the cars!!

 

for sure thats a W7...very nice. I love watching those things when they are at max excursion...damn things move back and forth like 3 inches

I bet your trunk rattles like hell!!! how is it? Mine is pretty bad, especially when I blast it

 

actually you will be suprised with the trunk rattle. I have my whole trunk dynamatted and also my trunk latch was readjusted. What I mean by readjusting is.

where the latch is attached to the car where the trunk locks in, there are like 2 bolts holding it in place. Loosen the bolts and move the latch down about 3/4 to half an inch. Even with the whole trunk dynamatted my car still rattled alot. With the trunk latch readjusting it helped alot.

 

Why cant I post pictures on this thread???

 

Hey man just sent you the pic. By the way. If you are going to be sending 1000 watts plus to your bass what about Mids and Highs.

There alot of good amp companys out there. I say stick to Kicker or JL. My reason why, alot of people tend to hate on kicker sometimes. Why becasue of there lack of knowledge about the products. And JL because of quailty and long term reliability.

Look into Kicker subs to. Some people say the square woofer sounds like azz but its not true. I have had almost ever kicker sub made in the last 4 years and I was happy with them all but craved more, and was only willing to use one sub.

If you want a loud system check out the kicker 1250.1 and the L5 or L7 subs. I am pretty sure two 10 L7 will bang hard ported and I know a 2 10L7 box will also fit inside a TL.

 

Thanks for the pics.... with your set up like that do u get any trunk rattle?

 

How do you like the W3v2. I use to have them and sold them last summer. The only reason I sold them was because of a great deal I got on my W7.

 

I was very surprised actually. I mean now they are in a smaller sealed box and they hit very hard and sound great. I have my bass head moments, and they definately do the job plenty good. 2 W3V2's have basically same output as 1 W7 of the same size so they do good.

 

I noticed a differ in bass from switching the woofers. I had the W3v2 on the same amp u have, THey got loud but the W7 gets louder at the lower freqencies.

 

For sure, expecially if you are comparing sealed to the slot ported box of the w7. The w3v2's get much lower in that slot ported box also. But the w7's can really pound out the low bass more than any sub I have ever heard.

 

for my mids and highs, i already have a usamp 400x, giving 100 watts of power to each side to focal utopia's....i already have this stuff, so i can't really change it, from what i've heard though, it should be pretty clean....havn't got the coax stuff yet,.

 

o yeah, not to stop the convo already going on, but i wanted to clear up one thing....

so if my box is ported to like 33Hz, does this equal worse output at ranges that are far from this?? i don't understand the point of tuning to a certain frequency.

 

when u tune a box any freq below the tuning the woofer will fact in a state of freeair. The woofer will bottom out and distort. Tuning at 33hz you will receive excellent SQ and good amount of SPL

 

From what I've read, a sealed box tends to have flatter response across the spectrum (typically only 2 or 3 octaves) than ported, but at the expense of needing more power to acheive the same spl output. Most people prefer ported boxes because they produce more sound. And at 20-100 Hz who can really tell the difference in freq. response? I use sealed boxes because the ported ones are bigger and take more trunk space.

I'm using a cheap 12" woofer in a sealed box now, and it sounds great until I exceed its strength for a small sealed box. Now I'm looking at throwing it away and buying another driver--ported would have been easier because the cheaper speaker would have worked fine.

 

I am currently installing two 15inch subs in my trunk. The box is ported through the top of the box and also ported through the arm rest console... sounds kinda wierd but it'll be clear with pictures.. they will just fit... not sure if 18's will fit but the 15's are no problem..

Ported boxes will get better SPL (higher DB), sealed boxes will give a better SQ.... depending on what kind of sound you want... it can be a drastic improvement depending on the design and the subs capabilities.... Using one Concpet 12inch, I went up over +5dbl to 140.8 by redesigning the box.... if you know about decibals, going up 5dbl is amazing.. I actually had the judges want to study the box after the comp. because they had not ever seen those gains "just from a box".

I'll post pics of my system and the entire building of it, once it's done... I've got some serious bass coming.. I can barely wait....

 

RF, remember you are going for high SPL...most of us arent, especially in a car like we drive. but I bet your system will blast when you get it hooked up! what did you end up doing with your electrical system? and be ready for your sunglass holder to sound like it going to rattle off

 

yeah, im running 2 12" ported in my TL, had my box plans drawn up by someone from the car audio boards.... my box is HUGE, too big, where my back wheels are tucking and my fronts have like a 2 finger gap...
ill take pics later on, though its a messy sight.

 

sorry guys.. I personally am making a SPL ported box yes.. but still we could have a ported box in our trunk and have some space for luggage

I think I'm going to get a new battery for my engine, probably a turbo start three post (one negative and two positive posts, one for system and one for car ele), then for SPL gains I will gradually increase to the Alternator upgrade and a Battery in the trunk... Once I increase the ALT or add a battery to the trunk I enter a different Class in DBDrag...

 

Remember your stock alternator at best is 120 amps...hardly enough to run 2 15's in a SPL type setup, and 2 batteries is a must. Anyway how man ft3 is your box? Our trunk is big, but not very high, so you have to build it deep to get any good airspace = no room for anything else. that is why I have a sealed box - I can still get to my spare and everything.

 

i asked for plans to make a box from some guy.
16.5H x 31W x 20.75D
pretty damn big.... too big actually.
RF or anyone else, could i trim down the box w/o losing significant sound, IA (the company of my subs) said i could cut 3 inches off the depth, any other input??

also, how would i go about running a seperate battery in my trunk? is it easy to do?

 

yea i plan on puttin two 15" alpines, with a custom fiberglass box it shouldn't come more than half of the spare tires length and the installer said i will need 3 cu. ft. im still thinkin about this $600 DD 12" sub. that sounds like itz gonna rip ur ears off but shittttt. with install and custom box n dynamattin the whole car im lookin at $1300 so i might just stick with the two 15" and two of the 1000w amps

 

there is no way your stock alternator will power 2000 watts, and your trunk is going to rattle like a muther f&&*$.

 

2nd battery for the system wit an isolator and i gotta take out tht stock sub n let sum the air pressure loose

 

removing the stock sub wont help much because your box will go past that anyway. The second battery wont help much either because your charging system (alternator) wont be able to charge 2 batteries and keep a high power system going.

Rule of thumb is adding a battery puts an additional 10 or so amp draw on your alternator - that is just to keep it charged. so you add that system and another battery and you will kiss your alternator good bye in no time.

the isolator will help, but there will still be way too much pull on the alternator

 

how do you figure out how many amps your system is using??

 

for my subs only... I will be running a 2400 watt Class D Concept amp, car runs at approx 12-14V

2400W divided by 12V = 200A

don't quote me on this it's from some recent research on that topic.. I'm still looking for varification.

 

your amps will have fuses on the side of them - you can add them up (this will be more than you would ever use, but close)

A better way is to add up your subs total RMS output and divide by 14.4, because that is the voltage from your alternator when the engine is on. Your mid amp wont really ever reach its peak in output/current draw unless you are blasting the hell out of your door speakers - it takes much more power to run subs than any other speaker.

so our alternator is 120 amps (give or take a few) the formula is Amps x Volts = watts so 120 x 14.4 = 1728. that is the max output for our alternator. It will drop below 14.4 volts at times also - like when your AC kicks on or something. But if you have an amp that has an unregulated power supply (JL Audio, Kicker, many more), then your amp will produce the same wattage output with 12 volts or 14.4 volts.

it is ideal to get an amp with that capability so your power/sound wont dip when your AC kicks on, or your headlights...

so you guys with dreams of big ass systems...they will never reach their peak and be starved for power with our current alternator, and you run the risk of overloading the alternator for an extended time = alternator death

 

how bout a rebuilt alternator along with an isolator and 2nd battery?

 

ya that could work, but its will cost you quite abit extra. $350 or so for a rebuilt alternator (and at least 1 week without a car), $100+ for a good battery, and how ever much the isolator is. But with the rebuilt alternator you probably wont need the isolator.

Honestly you are putting too much into this car, but whatever floats your boat. So much of the sound gets muffled by the trunk, and even if you port it into the cabin, that is far from ideal for SQ.

 

so what do you think i need for a good sound system without spending too much?

 

I have no idea what you like or what you want. Just IMO dont try to get the biggest or most power, you wont be happy. Mine can get very loud...it will make you sick if you sit in the back seat. The system you are saying is way overkill, unless you plan on putting some serious door speakers in with at least 100 watts/speaker to keep up with the bass.

You could get 1 JL 12W7 in a slot ported box with 700 watts or so to it - I promise you would be happy and you would have more trunk space left.

I also dont know what kind of money you plan on spending, or if you even know how much a quality system will cost. Mine cost over $3000 and I bought pieces over time.

Quantity doesnt equal Quality

 

wutchu got done audiowise? PM me wit it