Yahoo blows! give it a minute it should show up.

 

wow thats pretty slick man! your system is gonna look clean!

 

I hope so

hey eld got a question. What would you recommend using for a active 3way setup? Would one of the zapco units work or something else?

 

Well, first off, if you're using one of the high end HUs that has time correction in it, you have to use that xover in the HU for it to work.

Many amps have the xovers built in. You have to get a pretty good xover to sound better than the Zapco amp xovers.

I am not a fan of the indash mounting like Zapco makes possible, but I like their xover gear.

If you are are looking for SQ, the Zapcos work, the AudioControls work OK, the Altos seem to sound good but are a little tweaky. My advice is you have to spend a lot of money to make it worthwhile.

 

So I dont have to have use the sp7 or sx, just use the amps? Ive never done a Active setup so I have no clue as to how you would use the amp to run the tweets without blowing them. Could you detail what all equipment I would need to run active?

 

FIrst off, you had a couple of amp options, cna you verify for me real quick which way you ended up going?

 

Well I can use the 1000.4 & 500.1 or just the 1000.4 it doesnt really matter. I already have the SLB-TP4, SLB-U, VFM-B.01, SLDIN.Y & SLDIN.01.

 

Damn, you're swimming in Symbilink cables.

The xover in the 1000.4 has independent filters, and the 500.1 has a filter too.

What I'm not sure about is the handoff. The old Zapco M80/S80 had a handoff output where the M80 had an RCA OP for the S80, so the M80 xover high-passed the S80. The Zapco site is having trouble downloading OMs, so I can't check this at present...

Basically you need a Low Pass filter for the 500.1 (got that), a LP AND a High Pass filter for half of the 1000.4 (may only have 1/2 of that), and a HP for the other half (got that).

Does your HU have a HP xover for the F output? If it does, that might be your best bet - use the LP in the 500.1, the HP in the HU on the and the LP in the 1000.4 LP on the mids, and the 1000.4 HP on the tweets.

 

Yes the HU does have a HP for the front, but the HU doesnt have the power to drive the speakers no? What would the 500.1 filter be used for?
Heres the specs on each piece:

tweeter:
Nominal impedance: 6 ohms
Sensitivity (2,83v.1m): 89.5 dB
Free air resonance: 850Hz
Rec. frequency
range: 2000-25000 Hz
Nom. power handling: 90W

Mid-range:
Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity (2,83v.1m): 86dB
Free air resonance: 52Hz
Rec. frequency
range: 100-5000 Hz
Nom. power handling: 75W

Woofer:
Nominal impedance: 4 ohms
Sensitivity (2,83v.1m): 90dB
Free air resonance: 48Hz
Rec. frequency
range: 40-2500 Hz
Nom. power handling: 100W

 

I believe the HP in the HU affects the RCA outputs as well.

THe 500 filter is the LP for the sub. You will set that around 70 or 80.

The HU HP would be take the bass out of the mids. Set that to 60 or 80 if you can.

One of the 1000.4 xovers would be set to LP and take the highs out of the mid.

The other of the 1000.4 xovers would be set to HP and take the mids and lows out of the tweet signal.

 

Ok, now im starting to see the whole picture. Thank you

 

 

^
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^

 

 

I finally decided on what im going to use.

All Zapco
2x eq30 30 band (left & right channel)
1x SLX4 crossover
1x reference 1000.4- 4x150@4ohms to drive woofers&mids
1x reference 350.2- 2x100@4ohms to drive tweets
1x reference 500.1- to drive a sub

3way Seas Lotus in kicks.

What you think eld? Ill probably pull my hair out playing with the eq's but I got them ata good deal.

 

It's hard to pick any holes in your electronics gear - any SQ problems will either be a speaker issue or entirely your own fault : )

I say that just because I have not heard those speakers. They (SEAS) have a great name for drivers, and since the xover adjustment is now in your own hands, I would say that you just have to keep your sub, HU, and installation in line with the quality of your electronics and you should have great sound.

What are you using for a HU, anyway? (I have a Clarion HX-D1 SACD player and a Denon DCT-Z1 in the box: ) PLEASE tell me you've jettisoned that Pioneer unit.

A word on adjusting the EQ's. You want to set these up where you have a long set of Symbilink cables so you can tune the EQs with them sitting on the passenger seat, and then re-install them wherever you put them back in the back (I am assuming you are not doing the big Zapco stack-rack in the dash). Otherwise the tuning process will take for-effing-ever.

You also want use of an RTA and a pink-noise test CD - not because you need it to be flat, but because it helps a LOT in setting xover points and then the EQ settings. It's not your final arbiter, but it shaves a lot of time off of the total.

 

Yes im still planning on using the p960 HU...for now.If I can dump it on ebay for a decent price I might go for a denon. I dont want any part of clarion. Ive had 2@over $400 & nothing but broblems & I didnt even remove the face plates from them.

I already got the 2 eq's just waiting for them to get shipped out. I was planning on installing everything behind that dummy wall in the picture above & im glad you mentioned the eq setup:your right, It never crossed my mind that I have to be in the car to listen to the changes yet the eq's would be in the trunk
Where can you get the test cd's? The p960 has a mic to test for something, but not sure for what. The manuall for that thing is huge & I havnt had time to read it.

 

A lot of time the RTA has one that goes with it, but I think IASCA has one and I know that Autosound 2000 has a set.

 

Oh, I cna get you the Nak CD-700 too : )

 

Any website with specs on them? Price em for me so I know what I have to work with.

 

Here's a good article on the Nak. I'll PM you tomorrow when I go into the shop and can look up the prices...

http://www.carsound.com/review_archi...its/cd700.html

I also have some Rockford-Denon HUs, Rockford label, Denon R1000 guts... they sound great.

 

Well here is what I have so far. I also bought 2 used zapco eq30's, but I sent them to ARPA(zapco) to have them bench tested & get new plexiglass for the tops. I also bought a alumapro 15 farad C.A.P. which will be here on tuesday. I decided to get the c2k4 to drive the tweets & mids & I will buy a 100.4 reff to drive the woofers+sub. So all I have left to get is the 100.4, sub, and maybe a better HU like the clarion DRZ9255

 

damn thats a fatty capacitor!

 

Nice to unwrap, ain't it?

I forgot to get back to you about the HUs...

I have a Denon Z1, an R1, and an R10 ( I really ahve 2 R10s but one is mine and you can't have it : )

Maybe I'll go to the store and take pics today

 

Yes it is

Ya, id like to see pics. Ive been contemplating the Clarion DRZ9255 to. This unit doesnt have a detachable faceplate which is just fine with me cause the other clarions that I had all had serious breakdown issues in that area. Maybe you can explain the difference between all of them. Do any of the units you mentioned have fiberoptic in/out? The DRZ has 2 24bit DAC's which im not sure if thats more then I need or not.

 

u mind shrinkin' ur picz?

 

Ill have to change the setting in my digi cam

 

You don't have an external DAC anyway, do ya?

The DRZ9255 has a fiber optic input I think, not an OP. It lets the Clarion changer use the internal DACs.

The Clarion HXD1 is like the 9255 but also supports HDCD. Japan only, but I have one : )

The Denon Z1 is the big f!ckin dog.

I didn't get into the stoer, it was sunny so I mowed the lawn. I'll be there tomorrow.

 

ya no kidding...

 

Ok, here are smaller pics:

 

Those tweets look deep... or is that a trick of the photo?

 

1.25 deep. They are built like a tank. If you were to loob one of them at someone & hit em in the head it would kill them instantly...that aint no joke!

Thats why I had to nix my plan on installing them in the B piller & go with kicks. Their performance model tweets are not as deep.

 

Here are pics of the alumapro 15 CAP. Had shipping issues but finally got it








My first impression was: holy s88t! this thing is big and heavy. It says limited edition which is why im assuming it comes with a 200amp relay instead of the standard 100amp relay.

 

Hey, optomos, if you bought stiffly-regulated amps what was your goal in buying a cap?

 

What model car is all of this going into? That midbass and midrange are big, I noticed that you had kick panels. Will all of that fit in them?

 

For the extra juice these amps will require.

 

99TL. The midrange & tweets will fit in the kicks.

 

optomos, I'd like to suggest that you take a different look at the electrical sitchyashun.

A cap can help keep voltage up during momentary bass hits.

With much car audio gear, its performance fluctuates with input voltage.

If you are running a 9255 and all zapco Reference amps and processors, all your power supplies -CD, EQ, amps - are stiffly regulated. They give you the same power out from 11 to 16 volts. ()The 9255's "DC-DC converter" is a power supply : )

So I don't expect your performance to be affected unless you have consistent issues of the electrical charging system diving under 11 volts. If you do, a nicer batter and a cap ain't gonna solve that problem IMO. You need a new alternator to solve that problem.

Now, I'd STILL have a nice battery (Optima Yellow top, Kinetik, or Exide Orbital) and if you want to have a cap, fine... but that's my take on your current delivery needs.

 

My understanding of the alumapro CAP is that it acts as a battery backup with the exception that it is able to supply power alot faster then a battery ever could. The BatCap does the same thing, but the zapco competitors feel that Alumapro's CAP is superior. I plan on using a deep cycle battery to. Here is information that I found on high current alternators from a alternator company(note the 4th & 5th point):


We get many e-mail's and telephone calls requesting information about high current alternators for custom high-power car audio systems. We even have a standard e-Mail response to such inquiries (CLICK HERE TO VIEW THIS) that generally describes our generators and their physical and electrical characteristics.

First and foremost, unless you have sufficient battery capacity to dedicate to the audio system, and use the correct type of battery, simply adding a high current alternator WILL NOT solve your power problems.

In our opinion, a good definition of "sufficient battery capacity" is when your fully charged battery (or batteries) can perfectly maintain the electrical system loan (all vehicle electrical components which share the battery, or batteries, with your stereo components), without any additional charging input, for at least 30 minutes (or longer -- based on how long you typically operate the audio system when the car is not traveling, more or less continuously, at highway speeds).

Second, remember that automotive alternators do not produce their maximum output until engine speeds are well above idle -- typically 2,500-3,000 rpm on the average passenger vehicle. Further, they may produce very little (or even no) power at idle speeds. In stop and go traffic.

Third, you must know the peak, minimum, and average power requirements of your stereo system. Without this data you simply cannot properly determine how much alternator capacity that you require.

Basically, your alternator should produce AT LEAST 120% of your total continuous power requirement (150% is better) -- at the average engine speed of your vehicle while in use. If it does not, you will likely see your alternator fail prematurely.

For example, if your audio system demands an average of 100A, and if your basic vehicle electrical load is, say, 64A (typically 80% of your stock vehicle alternator's rated output), and you have installed a 200AH battery bank, you will need an alternator that can supply at least 300A.

This assumes that you drive at average engine speeds sufficient to produce full power from the alternator. However, average engine speed may not be sufficient to generate full alternator power. In this case, an even larger alternator should be fitted to properly supply the electrical system. In a low engine speed situation like this, to supply your average electrical demand, it might be necessary to install a 400A alternator!
CLICK HERE for a formula that you can use to calculate required alternator size for a given application.

--->Fourth, remember that audio systems have high instantaneous power demands.

Alternators can not respond quickly enough to provide power for loud musical passages. A battery can respond quick enough to handle most fast moving audio loads and are key components in an electrical system supplying power to meet the requirements of high power audio systems.

However, and this is the fifth key fact, even when charging at a high rate, and at elevated engine speed, automotive electrical generating/supply systems (alternators and batteries), simply cannot respond to the quickest power demands of an audio system. They simply cannot provide additional current quickly enough to supply these requirements on their own. And, when engine speeds are lower, the typical automotive electrical generation equipment frequently cannot even come close provide the power needed. Therefore, for an ideal audio power system, very large capacitors, which can respond to ultra-short term system power demands even faster than a battery, are an absolute necessity. The size of your capacitor array is determined by your peak power demands.)<---

Since is it often very difficult, if not impossible to install a single large alternator, often the best automotive audio power supply solution is to "split" your electrical system -- dedicating one or more deep cycle batteries to supply just the high current demand components in your audio system -- charging that battery (or batteries) with a second high output alternator -- and leaving the "stock" electrical system (and engine starting battery) intact.

By doing this, ALL of the power produced by the secondary, high current, alternator is available to supply your audio system. This is exactly the sort of electrical system found on the typical emergency vehicle. AND, in most cases, it is by far the least expensive solution.

If the installation of a large, properly sized alternator, or a split electrical system (as described previously) is not possible consider installing a large battery bank, separate from the vehicle electrical system, to supply your audio system's power amps. Charge these batteries with a conventional battery charger when the vehicle is parked at home. When/if the batteries discharge to 50% (about 12.2 volts) turn off the amps until the batteries can be recharged.

While this means that your audio system might not be able to operate at all times, it is much better for your vehicle's alternator, battery, and delicate electrical components (computer chips, etc.) -- which can be seriously damaged by operation in vehicle system that operates with low system voltages.

Source:http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/AutoSound.shtml

 

Can I boil that down to "you still need an upgraded battery"?

And my point about stiff regulation of the power supply and caps has not really been answered. Why are you buying one again?

Maybe you should buy one of these...

http://www.audiocubes.com/category/C...er_Player.html