Max RMS Watts
Max RMS Watts
Hey guy's, i have an 02 TL-P. I wanted to know how many watts RMS can our TL handle on the stock alternator and battery. Right now i have a 4 channel MB Quart amp (100X4 RMS @4 ohms) and i was going to get 2 12 inch alpine Type R's(05 version) hooked up to an amp that does around 1,000 RMS @ 1 ohm in the next few day's so i need to know quick if i can do it or not. You guy's with systems on the stock battery and alternator, how many watts do you have running to it? Has it been okay? Thanks alot for everyone's help.
No, I don't care if it's class D or not. But Class D amps are around 80% efficient and Class AB amps are around 50% efficient.
It sounds like you haven't even picked the amp yet. Maybe you should research the current draw of your candidates?
It sounds like you haven't even picked the amp yet. Maybe you should research the current draw of your candidates?
I don't want to sound like a smartass, but you need to understand some things first. Don't worry about how many watts RMS your alternator can handle. That's the wrong thing to consider. consider how many AMPS your alternator can handle. If your alternator 'Can't Handle' you current sound system, try getting a Capacitor, or a high-performance battery.
another thing- All amps are different. Example- let's take 2 different-brand amps, both are rated at 30 amps. the amps are most likely going to produce different RMS ratings and act differently, because they are designed differently. My point is this ; Watts RMS doesn't neccessarily convert accurately to a certain Amperage in every system. 1200 Watts RMS at 125 amps could be only 110 amps at the same 1200 Watts RMS in another system. hopefully this helps some people. again, i dont mean to sound like a smartass and correct everyone. thank you.
another thing- All amps are different. Example- let's take 2 different-brand amps, both are rated at 30 amps. the amps are most likely going to produce different RMS ratings and act differently, because they are designed differently. My point is this ; Watts RMS doesn't neccessarily convert accurately to a certain Amperage in every system. 1200 Watts RMS at 125 amps could be only 110 amps at the same 1200 Watts RMS in another system. hopefully this helps some people. again, i dont mean to sound like a smartass and correct everyone. thank you.
I'm attempting to correct the comment about class AB and D efficiency.
Class D Amps are actually way less efficient than class AB. ( or A, or B.)
I have a Alpine class D mono amp, with a Signal-to-noise ratio (Efficiency) in the 60's. Compared to almost any Class A or AB or B amplifier with rating in the 80's-90's-100's. Not a big deal, but i just wanted to clarify.
Class D Amps are actually way less efficient than class AB. ( or A, or B.)
I have a Alpine class D mono amp, with a Signal-to-noise ratio (Efficiency) in the 60's. Compared to almost any Class A or AB or B amplifier with rating in the 80's-90's-100's. Not a big deal, but i just wanted to clarify.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by 98_2.5_TL
I don't want to sound like a smartass, but you need to understand some things first. Don't worry about how many watts RMS your alternator can handle. That's the wrong thing to consider. consider how many AMPS your alternator can handle. If your alternator 'Can't Handle' you current sound system, try getting a Capacitor, or a high-performance battery.
another thing- All amps are different. Example- let's take 2 different-brand amps, both are rated at 30 amps. the amps are most likely going to produce different RMS ratings and act differently, because they are designed differently. My point is this ; Watts RMS doesn't neccessarily convert accurately to a certain Amperage in every system. 1200 Watts RMS at 125 amps could be only 110 amps at the same 1200 Watts RMS in another system. hopefully this helps some people. again, i dont mean to sound like a smartass and correct everyone. thank you.
another thing- All amps are different. Example- let's take 2 different-brand amps, both are rated at 30 amps. the amps are most likely going to produce different RMS ratings and act differently, because they are designed differently. My point is this ; Watts RMS doesn't neccessarily convert accurately to a certain Amperage in every system. 1200 Watts RMS at 125 amps could be only 110 amps at the same 1200 Watts RMS in another system. hopefully this helps some people. again, i dont mean to sound like a smartass and correct everyone. thank you.
while crusing your alternator puts out 14.4 volts...so take 105 x 14.4 = 1512 watts.
now that is the max that alternator can put out (obviously it could vary slightly). But if you are just sitting and the revs arent up in the car, my voltage drops to around 12 quite a bit when the bass hits - so you can do the math there also.
Originally Posted by 98_2.5_TL
I'm attempting to correct the comment about class AB and D efficiency.
Class D Amps are actually way less efficient than class AB. ( or A, or B.)
I have a Alpine class D mono amp, with a Signal-to-noise ratio (Efficiency) in the 60's. Compared to almost any Class A or AB or B amplifier with rating in the 80's-90's-100's. Not a big deal, but i just wanted to clarify.
Class D Amps are actually way less efficient than class AB. ( or A, or B.)
I have a Alpine class D mono amp, with a Signal-to-noise ratio (Efficiency) in the 60's. Compared to almost any Class A or AB or B amplifier with rating in the 80's-90's-100's. Not a big deal, but i just wanted to clarify.
Originally Posted by elduderino
The day that thermal efficency and S/N are the same thing, I'll eat my hat.
Originally Posted by milellie111
Hey guy's, i have an 02 TL-P. I wanted to know how many watts RMS can our TL handle on the stock alternator and battery. Right now i have a 4 channel MB Quart amp (100X4 RMS @4 ohms) and i was going to get 2 12 inch alpine Type R's(05 version) hooked up to an amp that does around 1,000 RMS @ 1 ohm in the next few day's so i need to know quick if i can do it or not. You guy's with systems on the stock battery and alternator, how many watts do you have running to it? Has it been okay? Thanks alot for everyone's help.
We sure are getting off the original posts alot lately.
Anyway, to answer YOUR question: I run my Memphis Belle at 75 x 4 @ 4 ohm and 1,000 x 1 @ 1ohm. I have the stock battery and no capacitor and have had no problems at all. However, I have never listened for a long period of time cranked up. Maybe 30 minutes max but, have never had any issues at all.
Originally Posted by milellie111
Hey guy's, i have an 02 TL-P. I wanted to know how many watts RMS can our TL handle on the stock alternator and battery. Right now i have a 4 channel MB Quart amp (100X4 RMS @4 ohms) and i was going to get 2 12 inch alpine Type R's(05 version) hooked up to an amp that does around 1,000 RMS @ 1 ohm in the next few day's so i need to know quick if i can do it or not. You guy's with systems on the stock battery and alternator, how many watts do you have running to it? Has it been okay? Thanks alot for everyone's help.
Speaking of your 4-channel amp, is that MB Quart any good? i was gonna get the exact same amp, the new one, but i just needed some reviews first. what can you say about em? nice? hit me back.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rp_guy
Member Cars for Sale
9
Jul 16, 2017 07:33 AM
4drviper
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
2
Sep 23, 2015 07:42 PM
Medinak12
3G TL Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
2
Sep 23, 2015 07:11 PM



