i recently got 2 Kicker S12L7's (750 rms each) and they are 4 ohm i think. I aint too great with car audio :-/. But anyways, in the manual that came with the subs it says on a diagram where the 2 positive coils are wired together and the 2 negatives are wired together and they goto the amplifier. right next to it it says:
Dual 2 ohm = 1 ohm Load
Dual 4 ohm = 2 ohm Load

i thought my subs were 4 ohm, and if this is so... since i have 2, my friend said if i wire them together they become 2 ohm or something like that. i gotta know this stuff to buy my amp so yea, kinda stuck.

 

Your subs will be either dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm voice coils. Since you have a pair, here is the options:

If they are dual 2 ohm, then you can achieve a final load of 2 ohm or 8 ohm. If they are dual 4 ohm, then you can achieve a final load of 1 ohm or 4 ohm.

You will have to determine what configuration they are for sure. If they are indeed dual 2 ohm voice coils, then most sub amps will run max power at 2 ohms and that will be your objective. There are a few amps that are 1 ohm stable but, not many.

 

oh i kinda got it. my kickers are 4 ohm and if i wire them parallel they achieve a 2 ohm load.
Parallel Wiring:
Dual 4 ohm = 2 ohm Load

so if i wire it like that... and i have 2 subs ... my final "ohmage" i guess would be... 2 ohm?

 

If your subs are dual 4 ohm and you wire everything in parallel then, you are going to arrive at a 1 ohm final load or each sub would be 2 ohm. You would either need an amp that will run at 1 ohm bridged or mono, or you would need a really big 2 channel amp that will put out some serious power into each channel at 2 ohms. Just a thought, run each subs voice coils in series and then wire one sub to the other in parallel. This would achieve a 4 ohm final load. Then, look at a JL 500/1 or better yet a 1,000/1. The 500/1 would put 250 watts per sub and the 1,000/1 would put 500 per sub. Just one of many options.

 

k thanks everyone agree with this guy? cuz im gunna relying on him on the right info to buy my amp

thanks

 

i also heard if i run it at 1 ohm it would overheat really fast. :-/

would this amp be suitable for what i have (dont really care that im missing 70 watts)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...710819484&rd=1

or a mono one like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...711400003&rd=1

just not sure if the mono one will overheat like my friend said

 

While it might seem that those two amps are attractively priced, do yourself a favor and buy a better amp to go with those subs. Remember that the amp is the engine to the system and going the cheap route only lessens the performance of your system. I would look at some of the better class D amps out there. Like the Kicker, Orion or JL models in the power range that suits you.

 

better get rid of one subwoofer and get a bigger budget on an amp, than keeping 2 subs and and driving them weakly (not enough power, not enough damping, etc etc...)

An additional sub is not going to make your system louder if the total power is the same, because all you do is dividing it, not increasing efficiency. In a 1.5 cu.ft sealed enclosure (this is what I recommand you), a single 12" L7 can handle 600w rms without exceeding Xmax, so the sound stay clean (and it will handle much more for a single "thump" were you will never detect distortion). The Hifonics BX1500D is the kind of and you need to power two subs. I would stay away from the other unknown crap, the spec they list really show it's not a quality amp. You will far more enjoy your bass with one subwoofer and a great amp than with 2 and a crappy amp.

 

I agree with Torkguy. Stick with one sub unless you can afford both and get an awesome amp, also Hifonics amps are awesome, so much power and they don't overheat easy either, you gotta really be cranking you stereo for a while to get a Hifonics to overheat, I got a 2-channel Hifonics powering 2 Orion DVC comp subs and it's only shutoff because on its protector feature twice in over a year and I really abuse the hell out of it. Spend between 500-800 on amp or your subs will sound like shit. Also either way you go you definetely need a power cap I'd get 2.4 farad to be safe, thats what I have and no alternator or battery problems.

 

straight from the kicker manual http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals...fer Manual.pdf
So...

if you have 4ohm, with two speakers you can wire them in parellel and achieve 1ohm or 4ohm. If you wire them in series, you can achieve 4 or 16 opm (though 16 would be silly).

Don't forget, however, that you can use them on a two channel amp independently. Therefore, you could have two 2ohm subs on seperate channels. I'd go that route with a decent two channel amp.

If you have 2ohm DVC (dual voice coils) you basically get 2ohm or 8ohm (no one does 8). You could, however, seperate them as before as either two 1ohm or two 4ohm.

Lots of options but, basically, you can get just about any amp you like and try different ways until you either achieve optimum configuration or blow up your car.

If all that seemed like too much, remember that DVC acts like two speakers. So you can look at it like two sets of two speakers

 

my brother just got the brutus hifonics 1500 watt amp class D along with a 12 inch audiobahn sub (1500 watts as well rms). we got it professionalyl installed in my dads M3 and the amp kept blowing fuses everywhere. They said the transformer or something like that was broken. Also, when i tried instaling it again in my friends civic it fried his whole deck :-/. But i dont think i'll be getting rid of the 2nd L7 just because i already have it and im too lazy to sell it again. I'm kindof skeptical now about the hifonics amp and the clif designs i have read good things about in car magazines and internet reviews.