bozzchem

OK, I was talking to a "friend" of mine about my current system and how while I am pleased with the sound, I'm not thrilled with the sound. He then proceeded to ask me what the hell I was thinking with my amplifier choices.

In his words...."Why do you have $350 comps in front powered by a cheap ass amp and a $450 sub powered by a cheap ass amp. What the fvck did you expect?"

I'm not sure I'm in total agreement with him but I do think that the sound could be better.

I'm thinking of ditching the 4 channel USAcoustics for either a JL Audio 300/2 or Arc Audio 2100-CXL. Each should provide the 150W RMS @ 2ohm stereo the ID chameleons are asking for. I'm going to use the stock Alpine HU amp to power the rear fill speakers since I'm only looking for "fill" from them. I've already got the fader set so you can just tell they're back there...wasting the rear portion of a 4 channel amp.

I'm having a hell of a time deciding on a sub amp. I know I want to stick with class D since they use less current. I also know that since I have the D2 version of the IDMAX, it's either 4ohm or 1ohm. I'm not finding as many 1 ohm stable class D amps as I thought would be out there. I have to say that the JBL BP1200.1 has performed admirably at 1ohm, but.....

I think I'm going to do this one at a time. I'm going to keep the JBL and replace the USAcoustics. If I still don't feel that I'm getting the best sound I can, I'll go ahead and drop some more coin on a different sub amp.

So any thoughts on this matter would be appreciated.

Maybe I tried to be frugal in the wrong places?

I have some RAAMmat on the way and will hopefully have the front doors and trunk closer to resonance free soon. I'll update my mods page as I go.

Thanks.

AcuraX2

You know, I never wanted to say anything but, I was wondering "what is he thinking", hehe. Seriously, I would do just as you have said and replace the USCoustics first. I think that is where you will notice the biggest difference.

I used to think my MTX amps were some of the best made, until I switched and heard the JL 300/4's that I have now. And, I am sure there are probably even better amps than the JL's.

I think your Chameleons would be pretty happy with a 300/2. I have not heard Arc amps but, I have read they are awesome.



Keep us posted.

bozzchem

LOL, that's what these forums are for!! If you think I'm on crack, say so!!......politely!

The one thing I really need to do is find some kind of external subsonic filter for the JBL amp. I put a test disc in with a 10Hz tone and the IDMAX was flopping like a dead fish. That's got dead woofer written all over it to me.

I thought they made F-mods that were subsonic filters you could plug into your interconnects. I'll have to keep looking.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

How about the Kicker 1200.1 its 1 0hm stable and will need 0 gauge wiring. I say just keep the JBL amp and get a nice amp for the interior speakers.

LDH

How about a Directed 1100D for your sub..it should run perfect for a d2 idmax

shawhite

hey bozz i was wondering when you were gonna replace those amps... i would have to say between the jl and the arc i would go with the arc 8 days a week.... you also might want to look at matts, phoenix gold or maybe zapco if you have the $$$.... but i think that you should hear a big difference in sq after you change the amp for your door speakers...

TLdude

for the max go with an arc 1500dR u can get them for 500new from arc thats what i'm getting for my Max=)

Brewboy

Helix HXA 400
Audison LRx
Butler Audio TDB
Sinfoni (Maybe Autophile1 can make you a deal)

shawhite

damn brewboy you have some expensive taste... nice but expensive...

Brewboy

Buy the good stuff once and forget about it. Usually ends up being cheaper in the long run after "upgrading" 2 or 3 times, not to mention the associated installation costs.

bozzchem

There's a hell of a lot of truth to that statement!

BUT...you also have to decide where you draw the line. Yes, your tastes are excellent and expensive.

I'm either going to get JL, Arc, or Linear Power for the Chameleons.

I'll deal with the IDMAX later.

systek

hey, i told you that a long time ago...oh well...remember i have the kx1200.1 and it works great at 1ohm and has the subsonic filter! you want great amps at great prices? how about cadence a7hc sub amp and cadence a4 for your mids and highs. these amps are tits and look great as well! lots of nice features so make sure to ck them out. they are much more than just amplifiers. so for once, take my word for it and ck before paying for anything else

sssick

I have two Zapco's and the sound quality is insane. I recommend them.

systek

yeh, who wouldnt recommend zapco??? maybe ppl who dont have a bottomless wallet

N3TEL

A/D/S

I have been through many amps, but there is only one that I will ever buy anymore. True, you will pay $1000 for the same power you can get for $200-400 elsewhere, but if you want SQ, then go with A/D/S. You won't get same the SQ with anything less. If you are listening to anything acoustic, you'll hear the difference. If you just want the big DB's then save your money, A/D/S is not for everyone, in fact, most people won't appreciate the SQ because of the music they play.

This is the company that makes orion (their bottom of the line)
precision power (their mid-level)
and A/D/S (their audiophile level)

www.adst.com

It may not be for you, but if you want SQ, then you must have these amps on your list to audition.

Joe1973

It is all in the numbers! Name brand doesn't mean anything but how trendy you are, if the numbers are good on the less know amp. Sensitivity, THD, RMS Power, Damping factor. if these are all good numbers the name doesn't mean a thing! with the big name comes the big price!!! go trendy JL or go much cheaper and find the same numbers with a less known model. and yes there is a lot of junk on the market so do your research and check the numbers. Remember no never go my max power always check RMS Power.

on1wheel01

name brand doesnt matter huh ill put my sundown saz2000d and my sae50.4 against many many others. i had a alphasonik pmaer00da 4800 watts sure the numbes and specs looked good but come on jeez. and it seems reading post dates doesnt matter either cuz this thread is 6 years old

I hate cars

I've met many people with your line of thought that were blown away and in disbelief of the sound quality and detail of my "trendy" JL Audio W6s in a JL designed bandpass for the TL ported through the armrest. The pure SPL will get your attention too. This is the best sub setup I've ever owned or listened too. I've beat on them for many years in many different cars in sealed, ported, and now bandpassed and they're still going strong after all these years. And I'm not brand loyal, I'm running ID CTX65 comps because I like the sound better than JL's offerings for half the price.

CSWBiggs

wonder where you got the idea for that subsystem...

-Biggs