JL specs? Austin519
11-09-2001, 04:33 AM
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JL specs? Austin519
Austin519 or anyone
Damn that thread got full so Im just going to post a new one. Now I have to remember what I wrote cause I some how lost it.
Anyways lets see.....I thought about building my own when I had my 88 Legend LS. But it was an old car so I just put in some cheap stuff. 2 12'' Pioneers(sewer cap looking 1's) in universal bandpass, Audio Logic amp I think, and just replaced all the speakers w/cheap but better then stock ones. But now with the TL Type-S its a new car and it deserves better equipment. So if I was too build a bandpass box based on the cb212-w3, do you have or know where i can get the exact specs for it. The JL site seems to only mention the dimensions and the specs they do have are for single not dual. Im also thinking maybe building one like the Pro-Bend? boxes. You know how the plexi-glass bends so you can see the subs frm top and front. You know where I can get that and other parts to build a box? Also what type of wood/material whould work best. Thanks again for the advice.
"Yeah I like the JL's for their low THD and their low power consumption. However personally I think they're pretty ugly and look really unprofessional in a "regular" install. Ya know you can use w3's or w6's in that bandpass box...if you can get just the bandpass box. Also think about building your own...it's really easy, cheap, and you can model it after JL's if you don't want to do any thinking. It doesn't sense what impedance your load is...it just has a regulated power supply that will up the power intake if you have a higher load. It's a current regulated power supply I believe...it works independently of the load.
Austin519 "
Damn that thread got full so Im just going to post a new one. Now I have to remember what I wrote cause I some how lost it.
Anyways lets see.....I thought about building my own when I had my 88 Legend LS. But it was an old car so I just put in some cheap stuff. 2 12'' Pioneers(sewer cap looking 1's) in universal bandpass, Audio Logic amp I think, and just replaced all the speakers w/cheap but better then stock ones. But now with the TL Type-S its a new car and it deserves better equipment. So if I was too build a bandpass box based on the cb212-w3, do you have or know where i can get the exact specs for it. The JL site seems to only mention the dimensions and the specs they do have are for single not dual. Im also thinking maybe building one like the Pro-Bend? boxes. You know how the plexi-glass bends so you can see the subs frm top and front. You know where I can get that and other parts to build a box? Also what type of wood/material whould work best. Thanks again for the advice.
"Yeah I like the JL's for their low THD and their low power consumption. However personally I think they're pretty ugly and look really unprofessional in a "regular" install. Ya know you can use w3's or w6's in that bandpass box...if you can get just the bandpass box. Also think about building your own...it's really easy, cheap, and you can model it after JL's if you don't want to do any thinking. It doesn't sense what impedance your load is...it just has a regulated power supply that will up the power intake if you have a higher load. It's a current regulated power supply I believe...it works independently of the load.
Austin519 "
11-09-2001, 05:22 AM
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Another question, does anyone know how to hook up a second battery, for 02 TL-S w/Navi? I want to do something like the Mercedes radio. How you can use your radio without inserting a key or anything. Ive always wanted that just keep forgeting about it.
11-09-2001, 06:55 AM
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wangx56:
Whew...okay a lot of Q's in that one paragraph...lemme see if I get em all:
"So if I was too build a bandpass box based on the cb212-w3, do you have or know where i can get the exact specs for it."
*Easy...you can call JL Audio...their number is (954) 443-1100. Ask for a tech guy...then tell him you want to buy the JL box...but you want specs on it...inside and out. They should be able to send you some sort of PDF or something. If they give you crap say you're going to be putting stuff like neon rings in the box or whatnot and other items around it...so you need to know the specs like the port size, placement, internal volume etc etc etc.
Also you could just go to a local shop that sells JL and see if they have the dual box and then measure it yourself. By the way try:
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cb212.html
That's the dual enclosure. Also check here:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pd...W3BandPass.pdf
That's the PDF for the single enclosure. The good thing about stuff like this is that to make a dual enclosure...tack together two single enclosures. They're a bit lenient with the internal sizes...you can bring them down just a bit...know that it'll up the frequency you're passing out. Also...the main things are internal volume of the speaker side (sealed box side) of the enclosure and the magnet side (ported reflex side) of the enclosure, and the port length and diameter. Admittedly there are more factors, but those are the main ones. If you just note that you can make your own box. My first bandpass box which I made for 3 12's was shaped like a large rectangle, and if you can imagine looking inside...there were three separate compartments, the far left and far right were split across the diagonals of the compartments and the subs were mounted on that split...and the center was split perpendicular to the sides, and the sub was mounted there. So the outside subs faced out, the center one faced forward. It's really not altogether too difficult.
"The JL site seems to only mention the dimensions and the specs they do have are for single not dual."
*Double it.
"
"Im also thinking maybe building one like the Pro-Bend? boxes. You know how the plexi-glass bends so you can see the subs frm top and front. You know where I can get that and other parts to build a box? Also what type of wood/material whould work best. Thanks again for the advice."
*Mmmm not familiar with a type with bending plexiglass but I have done that before and also can imagine it...you can actually heat the plexi and bend it...although it's usually better done at the factory. I had a friend who had rigged this solid metal cylinder...about a foot in diameter...and he could heat it up by running current through a resistor wire loop in the center...and then you could just lay the plexi on it and bend it. Rather sweet idea. However for just a novice to bend plexi...it's gonna be rough stuff. May wany to talk to Streeteffectz on that one...he may could make you a piece...I wouldn't be able to for awhile. As for plexi in general...there are numerous places...and you can cut it just like wood so no real extra tools...you just want to make sure to get the right type of sawblades so that you don't have a lead (plexi shaving goo in front of the saw) and so you don't melt the plexi by cutting. The only other parts you need...or at least ones I use...are 3/4" medium density fiberboard (get the high quality stuff...as little airholes as possible)...wood screws...wood glue...silicone goo (to seal the cracks)...filler (sheets of a white insulation material that acts to increase volume as seen by the subwoofers)...and maybe a cheap power sander ($20). The way I usually build mine...
1) Get them to cut the MDF at Home Depot to the sizes I want. They're REALLY inprecise, so get them to cut it larger than you want, a good bit, and you'll shave it down at home with a saw.
2) Get home, mark up on the inside of the box with a pencil pressing lightly the image of the sides...saw it down to exactly what I want it at...sand it with a rough grit sandpaper a bit on the edges if needed to prep it for the glue. Cut the holes out for the ports but don't insert them yet.
3) Wipe glue on the joints that need it...build all 4 sides...then the bottom, then the top, onto the box. If you're making a window in the box it'll be even easier to work with. If not...dab a good bead of silicone onto the inner edge of the box...to help seal air leaks.
4) Using a drill, drill holes a good bit smaller than your wood screws into the MDF where you want to place your screws. If possible use a drill bit with a wider base (sort of the shape of a T) so that you can leave a light indentation around the hole so that the screwhead lays flat.
5) Drip wood glue into the holes, not a lot, just enough to wet the holes, wait about 15 minutes then drill in the screws. Cover the head of the screw (which should be slightly below the wood) with wood glue as well.
6) After everything has dried...sand it all down with 150, then 300, then 600 grit to where it's smooth. MDF doesn't take a LOT of sanding so well...also it usually is nice to sand the edges down just a bit...it leads to easier wrapping with carpeting or vinyl.
7) Go grab some PVC pipe for your ports...cut it, sand the edges, paint it the color you want on the inside, then stick it in there. Wood glue and silicone again.
8) Carpet or vinyl it. 3M spray adhesive always works for me...get the industrial strength though, and make a very heavy coat.
9) Cut your plexi, sand the edges carefully and install.
And boom you're done...yeah I know that was a really quick rundown...I'm just a bit tired
Good luck
Austin519
Whew...okay a lot of Q's in that one paragraph...lemme see if I get em all:
"So if I was too build a bandpass box based on the cb212-w3, do you have or know where i can get the exact specs for it."
*Easy...you can call JL Audio...their number is (954) 443-1100. Ask for a tech guy...then tell him you want to buy the JL box...but you want specs on it...inside and out. They should be able to send you some sort of PDF or something. If they give you crap say you're going to be putting stuff like neon rings in the box or whatnot and other items around it...so you need to know the specs like the port size, placement, internal volume etc etc etc.
Also you could just go to a local shop that sells JL and see if they have the dual box and then measure it yourself. By the way try:
http://www.jlaudio.com/enclosures/cb212.html
That's the dual enclosure. Also check here:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pd...W3BandPass.pdf
That's the PDF for the single enclosure. The good thing about stuff like this is that to make a dual enclosure...tack together two single enclosures. They're a bit lenient with the internal sizes...you can bring them down just a bit...know that it'll up the frequency you're passing out. Also...the main things are internal volume of the speaker side (sealed box side) of the enclosure and the magnet side (ported reflex side) of the enclosure, and the port length and diameter. Admittedly there are more factors, but those are the main ones. If you just note that you can make your own box. My first bandpass box which I made for 3 12's was shaped like a large rectangle, and if you can imagine looking inside...there were three separate compartments, the far left and far right were split across the diagonals of the compartments and the subs were mounted on that split...and the center was split perpendicular to the sides, and the sub was mounted there. So the outside subs faced out, the center one faced forward. It's really not altogether too difficult.
"The JL site seems to only mention the dimensions and the specs they do have are for single not dual."
*Double it.
"
"Im also thinking maybe building one like the Pro-Bend? boxes. You know how the plexi-glass bends so you can see the subs frm top and front. You know where I can get that and other parts to build a box? Also what type of wood/material whould work best. Thanks again for the advice."
*Mmmm not familiar with a type with bending plexiglass but I have done that before and also can imagine it...you can actually heat the plexi and bend it...although it's usually better done at the factory. I had a friend who had rigged this solid metal cylinder...about a foot in diameter...and he could heat it up by running current through a resistor wire loop in the center...and then you could just lay the plexi on it and bend it. Rather sweet idea. However for just a novice to bend plexi...it's gonna be rough stuff. May wany to talk to Streeteffectz on that one...he may could make you a piece...I wouldn't be able to for awhile. As for plexi in general...there are numerous places...and you can cut it just like wood so no real extra tools...you just want to make sure to get the right type of sawblades so that you don't have a lead (plexi shaving goo in front of the saw) and so you don't melt the plexi by cutting. The only other parts you need...or at least ones I use...are 3/4" medium density fiberboard (get the high quality stuff...as little airholes as possible)...wood screws...wood glue...silicone goo (to seal the cracks)...filler (sheets of a white insulation material that acts to increase volume as seen by the subwoofers)...and maybe a cheap power sander ($20). The way I usually build mine...
1) Get them to cut the MDF at Home Depot to the sizes I want. They're REALLY inprecise, so get them to cut it larger than you want, a good bit, and you'll shave it down at home with a saw.
2) Get home, mark up on the inside of the box with a pencil pressing lightly the image of the sides...saw it down to exactly what I want it at...sand it with a rough grit sandpaper a bit on the edges if needed to prep it for the glue. Cut the holes out for the ports but don't insert them yet.
3) Wipe glue on the joints that need it...build all 4 sides...then the bottom, then the top, onto the box. If you're making a window in the box it'll be even easier to work with. If not...dab a good bead of silicone onto the inner edge of the box...to help seal air leaks.
4) Using a drill, drill holes a good bit smaller than your wood screws into the MDF where you want to place your screws. If possible use a drill bit with a wider base (sort of the shape of a T) so that you can leave a light indentation around the hole so that the screwhead lays flat.
5) Drip wood glue into the holes, not a lot, just enough to wet the holes, wait about 15 minutes then drill in the screws. Cover the head of the screw (which should be slightly below the wood) with wood glue as well.
6) After everything has dried...sand it all down with 150, then 300, then 600 grit to where it's smooth. MDF doesn't take a LOT of sanding so well...also it usually is nice to sand the edges down just a bit...it leads to easier wrapping with carpeting or vinyl.
7) Go grab some PVC pipe for your ports...cut it, sand the edges, paint it the color you want on the inside, then stick it in there. Wood glue and silicone again.
8) Carpet or vinyl it. 3M spray adhesive always works for me...get the industrial strength though, and make a very heavy coat.
9) Cut your plexi, sand the edges carefully and install.
And boom you're done...yeah I know that was a really quick rundown...I'm just a bit tired
Good luck
Austin519
11-09-2001, 06:59 AM
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As for the 2nd battery question...all you will have to do is hook a second battery up in parallel to your first one...aka + to +, - to -. If your battery won't be under the hood, that will involve you running a + cable to your battery, and grounding the -. Assuming you are installing a stereo, you'll already have the + cable run so this shouldn't be an issue. One thing to think about is that if you're installing a second battery, or a high end stereo...you may want to ground the factory battery under the hood again. Aka take another or a thicker wire, attach it to the - terminal of that battery, attach an eyelet to the other end...drill a hole in some comfortable place under the hood into the car's metal frame...sand around it (the size of the eyelet) until you see metal, and screw it in. Aside from that you should have no issues.
One thing I forgot to say in my box post...you definitely need to keep in mind, if you make your own box...that the internal measurements are not the external...you're dealing with 3/4" MDF...in some places that means you add 3/4"...in some it means you add twice that...just be careful.
Austin519
One thing I forgot to say in my box post...you definitely need to keep in mind, if you make your own box...that the internal measurements are not the external...you're dealing with 3/4" MDF...in some places that means you add 3/4"...in some it means you add twice that...just be careful.
Austin519
11-09-2001, 08:20 AM
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Oh man this seems like its going to be some work. Sorry for all the questions. I use to just do things the cheap way that just popped in my head. But like I said b4 its a new car so I cant be putting a peice of sh!t into this. Thanks A LOT for the info. After getting the money I have to find the time for this. I have to work Mon.-Fri. full time night school and Sat. classes. All this just so I can pay the damn payments. Im suppose to be having fun at this point in my life. But suffer now and fun later, just hope Im not too old by that time. Thanks again for the great help!
11-09-2001, 11:09 AM
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wangx56:
I know whatcha mean man...I'm taking 21 hours of classes myself...so I'm crammed. It sounds like a lot of work...but to be honest, if you take your time and don't screw things up then it's not so bad. It only gets bad if you have to fix mistakes Working with medium density fiberboard is also really easy....as compared to a 15 layer cast of fiberglass...trust me 
Austin519
I know whatcha mean man...I'm taking 21 hours of classes myself...so I'm crammed. It sounds like a lot of work...but to be honest, if you take your time and don't screw things up then it's not so bad. It only gets bad if you have to fix mistakes
Working with medium density fiberboard is also really easy....as compared to a 15 layer cast of fiberglass...trust me Austin519
11-11-2001, 10:39 PM
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Ok Ive came up with another question. Say I have 2 12"w3's, is it possible to hook them both up to a 500/1? I see that the 500/1 has 2+ and 2-. So is it possible for me to do a parallel hookup. If so how much power is going through them. The subs whould be 4ohms so the output should be 2ohms in a parallel. So whould it be 250W to each sub? These things are quite confusing. Plus the 500/1s are not cheap so Im hoping I whould just need one instead of two. Or wait till the 1000/1 comes out, if this works. Thanks
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11-12-2001, 03:04 AM
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"Ok Ive came up with another question. Say I have 2 12"w3's, is it possible to hook them both up to a 500/1? I see that the 500/1 has 2+ and 2-. So is it possible for me to do a parallel hookup. If so how much power is going through them. The subs whould be 4ohms so the output should be 2ohms in a parallel. So whould it be 250W to each sub? These things are quite confusing. Plus the 500/1s are not cheap so Im hoping I whould just need one instead of two. Or wait till the 1000/1 comes out, if this works. Thanks"
Yes, it is possible. You'll want to short one of the voice coils of each and hook the other two in parallel to the amp. You'll get 250 watts to each. The impedance doesn't matter on a JL amp because of the regulated power supply as I already discussed. You only need one. I dare say a 1000/1 at full volume is much too much for your subs...they're made to power the new w7's...hence their synchronized release dates....
Austin519
Yes, it is possible. You'll want to short one of the voice coils of each and hook the other two in parallel to the amp. You'll get 250 watts to each. The impedance doesn't matter on a JL amp because of the regulated power supply as I already discussed. You only need one. I dare say a 1000/1 at full volume is much too much for your subs...they're made to power the new w7's...hence their synchronized release dates....
Austin519
11-12-2001, 10:53 PM
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Thanks again, you seem to have an answer to everything. You think I can IM next time I have more questions... Im sure there are many more that havent hit my mind yet. My AIM, email is all the same...wangx56. Appreciate your time.....
11-12-2001, 11:07 PM
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wangx56:
Thanks for the compliment, and yeah, you're more than welcome to email me...sadly enough I've actually started a new group on my buddy list titled "Acura" so well...heh heh
Austin519
Thanks for the compliment, and yeah, you're more than welcome to email me...sadly enough I've actually started a new group on my buddy list titled "Acura" so well...heh heh
Austin519
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