Instructions for install shop on preamp output
11-22-2005 | 09:34 AM
#121
10th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by CJams
So does your friend without the noise issue have the same exact set up? Is he using GLI's? JL amp? LOC's?
cjams, what equipment are you using, and you have the signal connected through locs from the door speaker outputs?
11-22-2005 | 10:12 AM
#122
Guinea Pig
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: At home
I had no noise when my system was stock. When I replaced my door speakers and 6x9's. I still had the oem amp running the new speakers and it sounded great! No noise.
I didn't experience noise till I hacked my wires and added rca's to the HU outputs. Then and only then the noise came. I am using Alpine Amps connected through all 4 channels of the HU outs running from 2 sets of GLI's. I tried all sorts of tuff to shut this HU up and nothing works. The LOC's helped a little bit, but not enough.
I plan on replacing the OEM amp set up and adding LOC's to the 4 door wires since they are full range. Another member recently reconverted back to stock and did this and eliminated all these problems. He eliminated the noise and the pops. He didn't say whether his balance and fade problems were solved, but im sure they are.
So the customer you installed the amp for that still has the noise issues... Does he have a balance and fade issue? When you fade all the way forward and the left, can he still hear the rest of the speakers if you get close to it? I can on mine.
I didn't experience noise till I hacked my wires and added rca's to the HU outputs. Then and only then the noise came. I am using Alpine Amps connected through all 4 channels of the HU outs running from 2 sets of GLI's. I tried all sorts of tuff to shut this HU up and nothing works. The LOC's helped a little bit, but not enough.
I plan on replacing the OEM amp set up and adding LOC's to the 4 door wires since they are full range. Another member recently reconverted back to stock and did this and eliminated all these problems. He eliminated the noise and the pops. He didn't say whether his balance and fade problems were solved, but im sure they are.
So the customer you installed the amp for that still has the noise issues... Does he have a balance and fade issue? When you fade all the way forward and the left, can he still hear the rest of the speakers if you get close to it? I can on mine.
11-22-2005 | 10:36 AM
#123
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Arizona
Vpat25, instead of the LOC's, find an amp that accepts high level inputs. I just bought a JL E6450 amp because it takes the high level inputs. Someday if I have a chance to install it, I plan to connect it to the OEM amps outputs. If it sounds good, I will leave it. If not, I might give a try to putting RCA's on the HU's low level wires. If I get noise, then I will just revert back to the high level inputs. I would find and amp that has both RCA's and High level inputs, this way you can try both if you would like and don't have to buy extra equipment(LOC's)
11-22-2005 | 11:20 AM
#124
10th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by CJams
I had no noise when my system was stock. When I replaced my door speakers and 6x9's. I still had the oem amp running the new speakers and it sounded great! No noise.
I didn't experience noise till I hacked my wires and added rca's to the HU outputs. Then and only then the noise came. I am using Alpine Amps connected through all 4 channels of the HU outs running from 2 sets of GLI's. I tried all sorts of tuff to shut this HU up and nothing works. The LOC's helped a little bit, but not enough.
I plan on replacing the OEM amp set up and adding LOC's to the 4 door wires since they are full range. Another member recently reconverted back to stock and did this and eliminated all these problems. He eliminated the noise and the pops. He didn't say whether his balance and fade problems were solved, but im sure they are.
So the customer you installed the amp for that still has the noise issues... Does he have a balance and fade issue? When you fade all the way forward and the left, can he still hear the rest of the speakers if you get close to it? I can on mine.
I didn't experience noise till I hacked my wires and added rca's to the HU outputs. Then and only then the noise came. I am using Alpine Amps connected through all 4 channels of the HU outs running from 2 sets of GLI's. I tried all sorts of tuff to shut this HU up and nothing works. The LOC's helped a little bit, but not enough.
I plan on replacing the OEM amp set up and adding LOC's to the 4 door wires since they are full range. Another member recently reconverted back to stock and did this and eliminated all these problems. He eliminated the noise and the pops. He didn't say whether his balance and fade problems were solved, but im sure they are.
So the customer you installed the amp for that still has the noise issues... Does he have a balance and fade issue? When you fade all the way forward and the left, can he still hear the rest of the speakers if you get close to it? I can on mine.
with the engine noise that i experienced coming directly from the radio, it wouldn't matter if you connected before or after the amp, if the deck is noisy, everything else will be also. the only differerence would be that the output of the deck is undistorted, which is good, but the amp outputs may distort at a high volume, so in my opinion, it would be better to use the output from the deck instead of the amp.
11-22-2005 | 12:08 PM
#125
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 431
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by CJams
Spoon- Ah hah! Now I see why you don't have any of the said issues! You HU signal is being filtered not only by your aftermarket Alpine HU, but then once it's filtered by that, it gets filtered by an additional EQ! I see now! That would have been my next step, adding an EQ between my HU and my amps in hopes of a better pre-amp filtering device. Basically, your Alpine HU is taking the brunt of the dirty signal.
I'll reiterate, I didn't have issues before I added the Alpine unit when i was using just a line driver. Setups pre-Alpine:HU--amp -> noise
HU--GLI--amp -> no noise
HU--LD--amp -> no noise (line driver accepts balanced signals)
Now with the Alpine unit, there is no filtering of the type you describe, there is no "taking the brunt". The connection between the OEM and aftermarket unit is via RCAs, so if the OEM were pumping out shit, the Alpine unit couldn't do a damn thing with it. And there is no additional EQ in my chain, I was listing the features of the Alpine deck. The signal is not dirty, there is no filtering.
Originally Posted by CJams
Try this with your set up and tell me what happens. Using your TSX HU (CD or radio and assuming you use all 4 channels of it), turn your TSX HU volume up and fade all the way to the front and then balance it to the left. Then listen to the other (cut-off) speakers and tell me if you get bleed through sound from them. The noise can be filtered, but I bet the bleed through to other speakers can't be stopped.
11-22-2005 | 02:15 PM
#127
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 37
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From: Calgary
Spoon - What GLIs were you using that eliminated the noise? I have been fighting with my set up for months, and the GLIs I used didn't do much for noise.
My
on this. A few months ago I added new speakers and an Alpine amp. Running off the HU RCAs I had three problems: noise, snapping, and bleed through. I actually didn't notice the channel bleed through until the last few weeks, but it had been slightly distorting my sound. I had to run my gain at min and the overall sound level and quality were not great.
Last weekend I put the factory amp back in and used the speaker levels to drive the amp (through the PLD44). Except for a minor issue with the rears, which I blame on my poor wiring and mangled harness, the sound is much, much better. Engine whine is gone, even if I crank the gain. Snap is gone. Bleed is gone.
I am no expert but I think the setup has two options:
1) HU RCAs into a unit that can accept balanced inputs, or
2) Factory amp speaker levels used to feed amp.
My
on this. A few months ago I added new speakers and an Alpine amp. Running off the HU RCAs I had three problems: noise, snapping, and bleed through. I actually didn't notice the channel bleed through until the last few weeks, but it had been slightly distorting my sound. I had to run my gain at min and the overall sound level and quality were not great.Last weekend I put the factory amp back in and used the speaker levels to drive the amp (through the PLD44). Except for a minor issue with the rears, which I blame on my poor wiring and mangled harness, the sound is much, much better. Engine whine is gone, even if I crank the gain. Snap is gone. Bleed is gone.
I am no expert but I think the setup has two options:
1) HU RCAs into a unit that can accept balanced inputs, or
2) Factory amp speaker levels used to feed amp.
11-22-2005 | 08:03 PM
#128
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 431
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by CJams
^ So all 4 channels of your OEM HU are going in to the 4 input channels of the Alpine HU? Are any speaker wires stiill connected to the OEM HU or amp?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...1&page=2&pp=25
I never had a fader issue - at least not any that I know of, so I can't speak to it directly. However, if it were simply the result of attaching RCAs, I should see the problem too. I can fade (with the OEM HU) all the way to the right and it will only come out the right side, same with all to the left, if I fade completely to the rear, there is no sound at all, so no channel bleed. We'll have to wait an see if CCS's suspicions are confirmed, maybe some units have problems.
11-22-2005 | 08:23 PM
#129
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 431
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Originally Posted by Tiguron
Spoon - What GLIs were you using that eliminated the noise? I have been fighting with my set up for months, and the GLIs I used didn't do much for noise.
Originally Posted by Tiguron
I am no expert but I think the setup has two options:
1) HU RCAs into a unit that can accept balanced inputs, or
2) Factory amp speaker levels used to feed amp.
1) HU RCAs into a unit that can accept balanced inputs, or
2) Factory amp speaker levels used to feed amp.
11-23-2005 | 07:00 PM
#130
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 260
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Will this amp work just dandy?
Originally Posted by vpat25
Also, with the question of amps. Will the Phoenix Gold XS6600 listed as having "differential speaker level inputs for Lease installs" according to onlinecarstreo.com be compatible with balanced inputs? Your help is appreciated 
..
..
or 
11-23-2005 | 07:18 PM
#131
Racer
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Originally Posted by dizzy1
Vpat25, instead of the LOC's, find an amp that accepts high level inputs . I just bought a JL E6450 amp because it takes the high level inputs. Someday if I have a chance to install it, I plan to connect it to the OEM amps outputs. If it sounds good, I will leave it. If not, I might give a try to putting RCA's on the HU's low level wires. If I get noise, then I will just revert back to the high level inputs. I would find and amp that has both RCA's and High level inputs, this way you can try both if you would like and don't have to buy extra equipment(LOC's)
The cheap Lanzar amp that I like has "high level inputs"
11-23-2005 | 08:41 PM
#132
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2005
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Originally Posted by vpat25
So if an amp accepts "high level inputs" then its balanced? The cheap Lanzar amp that I like has "high level inputs"
The cheap Lanzar amp that I like has "high level inputs"
11-24-2005 | 01:53 AM
#133
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 431
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Originally Posted by vpat25
So if an amp accepts "high level inputs" then its balanced? The cheap Lanzar amp that I like has "high level inputs"
The cheap Lanzar amp that I like has "high level inputs"
02-14-2006 | 01:45 PM
#135
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Portland OR US
Depends on the LOC.
The Soundgate PREA is a great LOC, but it has a transformer in it - so I don't want it anywhere near the Airbag ECU.
I haven't tried the Peripheral SVEN4 in a TSX yet.
Using the Iso Max CL-22RR as an LOC from balanced to single ended would no doubt sound killer - but they are not cheap and you need two.
The Soundgate PREA is a great LOC, but it has a transformer in it - so I don't want it anywhere near the Airbag ECU.
I haven't tried the Peripheral SVEN4 in a TSX yet.
Using the Iso Max CL-22RR as an LOC from balanced to single ended would no doubt sound killer - but they are not cheap and you need two.
02-14-2006 | 01:52 PM
#136
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I'm looking at an amp, the Pioneer GM-6100F that has high-level inputs.
What kind of results should I expect?
I realize it's not the best amp in the world, but i'm working on a budget here.
Also, while I've got our attention, do you know if the OEM amp outputs a full range signal to the front door speakers? If I were to tap those for the LOC, would I be missing the higher frequencies that are sent to the tweeters? Or are those sent to both the tweeters AND the door speakers?
Thanks
What kind of results should I expect?
I realize it's not the best amp in the world, but i'm working on a budget here.
Also, while I've got our attention, do you know if the OEM amp outputs a full range signal to the front door speakers? If I were to tap those for the LOC, would I be missing the higher frequencies that are sent to the tweeters? Or are those sent to both the tweeters AND the door speakers?
Thanks
02-16-2006 | 03:21 AM
#138
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 90
From: DC
Originally Posted by elduderino
(print and give to install shop)
Most installers haven't come across an OEM head unit like this, and most haven't seemed to believe the car owner that this can be done - so here's a writeup for you explaning that...
THIS IN-DASH CD CHANGER HEAD UNIT HAS 4 NORMAL PREAMP OUTPUTS!
It does NOT have RCAs on it, but the electrical signal is the same - it is not any funky balanced or DC-clamped signal or anything like that. It's a normal single-ended RCA signal without the RCA plugs. These wires have been tested with an oscilloscope. The output is the exact same level as a non-4V head unit.
The head unit also has NO equalization - flat response from 20-20k at any volume. In short, it's a great head unit, and many amps have been added to it with no noise and great sound quality. It''s actually very easy to do - so don't make it harder by ignoring this info and having to re-do your work, OK?
LOC's will add noise, both engine noise and background hiss. This is bad.
However, we have seen some engine noise if the mid/highs amp gain is raised very high. In these cases we have seen a line driver installed in the OEM amp location mentioned below solve the problem.
(IF YOU ADD A GLI FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT SET IT NEAR THE AIRBAG ECU IN THE FRONT CONSOLE AREA, IT IS A KNOWN NOISE EMITTER! The coil inside your GLI will pick up noise here! Also, do not set passive speaker xovers near this ECU)
Instructions:
Pull pocket and console around shifter. The OEM amp is a black box with a 20-pin harness and a 14-pin harness (it has "Made By Pioneer" on the bottom.) The 14-pin has a usable Remote Turn-On wire and the wires you need for RCAs. The 20-pin has speaker wires.
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2". Now connect these directly to the wires below:
(Note: Each - is across form each + in the plug)
Right Front:
B4, Blue + (center of RCA)
B7 Red - (shield of RCA)
Left Front:
B1 Red/Blue + (center of RCA)
B8 Yellow - (shield of RCA)
Right Rear:
B6 Lt Green + (center of RCA)
B13 Purple - (shield of RCA)
Left Rear:
B3 Blue + (center of RCA)
B10 Pink - (shield of RCA)
B7 Yellow/Green is the 12V Remote Turn On wire. It can safely run two amps. Do not short it out, it also powers the FM amp in the C pllar (but it is powered with sources other than FM, don't worry).
B2 Brown/Yellow, B9 Gray/Blue, B5 Brown, and B12 Gray are extra shield grounds that are grounded inside the amp. You probably should ground them (although it doesn't seem to make any difference.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
(The author is a veteran of the 12V industry of almost two decades. He has been the manager of tech support for a major 12V manufacturer, he helped write the MECP tests, and he has written numerous articles for Car Audio and Mobile Electronics magazines. None of that means he's right about this... but he is.)
Verified instructions on using the preamp outputs of the Acura TSX.
Most installers haven't come across an OEM head unit like this, and most haven't seemed to believe the car owner that this can be done - so here's a writeup for you explaning that...
THIS IN-DASH CD CHANGER HEAD UNIT HAS 4 NORMAL PREAMP OUTPUTS!
It does NOT have RCAs on it, but the electrical signal is the same - it is not any funky balanced or DC-clamped signal or anything like that. It's a normal single-ended RCA signal without the RCA plugs. These wires have been tested with an oscilloscope. The output is the exact same level as a non-4V head unit.
The head unit also has NO equalization - flat response from 20-20k at any volume. In short, it's a great head unit, and many amps have been added to it with no noise and great sound quality. It''s actually very easy to do - so don't make it harder by ignoring this info and having to re-do your work, OK?
NO LOC's ARE NEEDED!
LOC's will add noise, both engine noise and background hiss. This is bad.
However, we have seen some engine noise if the mid/highs amp gain is raised very high. In these cases we have seen a line driver installed in the OEM amp location mentioned below solve the problem.
(IF YOU ADD A GLI FOR ANY REASON, DO NOT SET IT NEAR THE AIRBAG ECU IN THE FRONT CONSOLE AREA, IT IS A KNOWN NOISE EMITTER! The coil inside your GLI will pick up noise here! Also, do not set passive speaker xovers near this ECU)
Instructions:
Pull pocket and console around shifter. The OEM amp is a black box with a 20-pin harness and a 14-pin harness (it has "Made By Pioneer" on the bottom.) The 14-pin has a usable Remote Turn-On wire and the wires you need for RCAs. The 20-pin has speaker wires.
Take 2 1M to 2F RCA "Y" adapters. Chop the Male ends off. Strip back the outer insulation 1". Wrap the shield into a strand away from the center dielectric. Strip back the center dielectric 1/2". Now connect these directly to the wires below:
(Note: Each - is across form each + in the plug)
Right Front:
B4, Blue + (center of RCA)
B7 Red - (shield of RCA)
Left Front:
B1 Red/Blue + (center of RCA)
B8 Yellow - (shield of RCA)
Right Rear:
B6 Lt Green + (center of RCA)
B13 Purple - (shield of RCA)
Left Rear:
B3 Blue + (center of RCA)
B10 Pink - (shield of RCA)
B7 Yellow/Green is the 12V Remote Turn On wire. It can safely run two amps. Do not short it out, it also powers the FM amp in the C pllar (but it is powered with sources other than FM, don't worry).
B2 Brown/Yellow, B9 Gray/Blue, B5 Brown, and B12 Gray are extra shield grounds that are grounded inside the amp. You probably should ground them (although it doesn't seem to make any difference.)
Here's a wiring diagram:
http://www.shinzu.com/tsx/images/repair/tsxaudio2.jpg
(The author is a veteran of the 12V industry of almost two decades. He has been the manager of tech support for a major 12V manufacturer, he helped write the MECP tests, and he has written numerous articles for Car Audio and Mobile Electronics magazines. None of that means he's right about this... but he is.)
Wanted to uprade 06 tsx with Navi and trying to avoid problems. Can I apply your excellent post to the Navi HU as well??
02-16-2006 | 10:08 AM
#139
Guinea Pig
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: At home
You will most likely apply the same issues most people receive from using it in an 06 as well. But if you drive to eldudes shop and have him do it for you he will gaurantee you won't have problems with it.
So far most of the people that use these instructions have to add a few widgets to get rid of noise/hiss and pops. Those directions should be updated to incorporate GLI's and turn on pop widgets. Then there is a bleed through problem some have that no one has figured out how to get rid of yet as well.
So far most of the people that use these instructions have to add a few widgets to get rid of noise/hiss and pops. Those directions should be updated to incorporate GLI's and turn on pop widgets. Then there is a bleed through problem some have that no one has figured out how to get rid of yet as well.
02-16-2006 | 02:20 PM
#140
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 90
From: DC
Originally Posted by CJams
You will most likely apply the same issues most people receive from using it in an 06 as well. But if you drive to eldudes shop and have him do it for you he will gaurantee you won't have problems with it.
So far most of the people that use these instructions have to add a few widgets to get rid of noise/hiss and pops. Those directions should be updated to incorporate GLI's and turn on pop widgets. Then there is a bleed through problem some have that no one has figured out how to get rid of yet as well.
So far most of the people that use these instructions have to add a few widgets to get rid of noise/hiss and pops. Those directions should be updated to incorporate GLI's and turn on pop widgets. Then there is a bleed through problem some have that no one has figured out how to get rid of yet as well.
Upgrading the sound system in the tsx with Navi seems to be a problem doing it the BEST way. My home equipment, consist of Krell and biamp NHT 3.3's, so I know good sound when I hear it. In a car environment I am not so critical. Can someone tell me what am I going to lose going with high level inputs to an amp, since this seems like the cheapest and safest way to go? All I want is better speakers with power to dirve the things, to a nice clean level.
02-16-2006 | 10:17 PM
#142
Guinea Pig
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: At home
Of course you don't. You're the author and one of the only people to supposedly get it to work flawlessly. Imagine that?
Not trying to argue, just trying to save members headaches that many others have encountered using these instructions. That's why we have these forums. To make life easier.
Not trying to argue, just trying to save members headaches that many others have encountered using these instructions. That's why we have these forums. To make life easier.
02-22-2006 | 01:40 PM
#145
Senior Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,036
Likes: 1
From: ffx.va.us
I haven't done it either. I don't believe I'll be touching the factory amp in my audio setup, I'm just going to go direct replacement + sub.
Maybe Eldude can verify that his instructions are at least the same / equivalent on an 06. No big hurry but it would at least ne nice to know.
Maybe Eldude can verify that his instructions are at least the same / equivalent on an 06. No big hurry but it would at least ne nice to know.
02-22-2006 | 05:04 PM
#147
Guinea Pig
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: At home
Originally Posted by Gpump
Why is this not sticky'd yet?
Good info - exactly what I did although when I did it we all just sort of assumed that it would work. Thanks for the write up.
Good info - exactly what I did although when I did it we all just sort of assumed that it would work. Thanks for the write up.
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/%2A%2Aaudio-video-diy-info-faq-all-models-%2A%2A-299065/
As far as which amps work well using this method....here is a thread that might halp ya. Members have posted the amps that they say they don't get noise from using these instructions. My suggestion is to pm those particular members and ask them if they have discovered any issues since they posted it. I use Alpine amps and have 3 problems.
https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/el-dude-effed-up-amps-work-well-tsx-317482/
02-23-2006 | 03:56 PM
#148
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
ok, a couple thoughts after re-reading the thread:
1. Why does eldude say to use 1M to 2F RCA adapters? I think I'm missing something. Couldn't you just take 4 single male RCA cords and splice each of them into the + and - for each of the HU's outputs (FR, FL, RR, RL)?
2. Considering the fact that the output of the HU IS differential: Let's say I have an amp that will accept balanced inputs. Would the ideal way to hook the amp up be to hook the HU + to RCA + and HU - to RCA shield? If so, you don't have a true "ground signal" going through the RCAs, correct? Would this work?
1. Why does eldude say to use 1M to 2F RCA adapters? I think I'm missing something. Couldn't you just take 4 single male RCA cords and splice each of them into the + and - for each of the HU's outputs (FR, FL, RR, RL)?
2. Considering the fact that the output of the HU IS differential: Let's say I have an amp that will accept balanced inputs. Would the ideal way to hook the amp up be to hook the HU + to RCA + and HU - to RCA shield? If so, you don't have a true "ground signal" going through the RCAs, correct? Would this work?
02-23-2006 | 04:57 PM
#149
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
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From: Portland OR US
Originally Posted by defjukie
ok, a couple thoughts after re-reading the thread:
1. Why does eldude say to use 1M to 2F RCA adapters? I think I'm missing something. Couldn't you just take 4 single male RCA cords and splice each of them into the + and - for each of the HU's outputs (FR, FL, RR, RL)?
2. Considering the fact that the output of the HU IS differential: Let's say I have an amp that will accept balanced inputs. Would the ideal way to hook the amp up be to hook the HU + to RCA + and HU - to RCA shield? If so, you don't have a true "ground signal" going through the RCAs, correct? Would this work?
1. Why does eldude say to use 1M to 2F RCA adapters? I think I'm missing something. Couldn't you just take 4 single male RCA cords and splice each of them into the + and - for each of the HU's outputs (FR, FL, RR, RL)?
2. Considering the fact that the output of the HU IS differential: Let's say I have an amp that will accept balanced inputs. Would the ideal way to hook the amp up be to hook the HU + to RCA + and HU - to RCA shield? If so, you don't have a true "ground signal" going through the RCAs, correct? Would this work?
2. That IS what I said to do, and that is the best way, and that's the difference between differential-capable amps and non, is that differential-capable amps don't NEED chassis ground on the RCA shield.
04-27-2006 | 12:42 PM
#151
Advanced
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Posts: 55
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cleansweep
04-27-2006 | 01:11 PM
#152
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Portland OR US
Originally Posted by rmjjensen
Noob.
04-27-2006 | 01:12 PM
#153
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
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From: Portland OR US
Originally Posted by rmjjensen
Don't need a clean sweep. Why use one?
04-27-2006 | 06:42 PM
#154
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2006
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Originally Posted by elduderino
I don't think I've ever used this word before on any forum anywhere.
Noob.
Noob.
I've been into audio since high school and worked at Auto Toys until I graduated college. I did every install on: http://www.autotoys2000.com/projects.htm from start to finish, even paint, and loved every minute of it. I went to school for electrical engineering, graduated and have now moved into software engineering as a career.
Anyway. I consider myself an audiophile and know that the place to start is the head unit, but I just like the stock look so I don't want to get of it. I just purchased my TSX a couple weeks ago and the first thing to go is definitely the stereo. It's alright for factory as far as frequency range, but the loudness just isn't there.
My old setup consisted of: [http://mci.expertwebcreations.com]
... Laptop Computer
... SP/DIF Audio -> Optical Converter
... Optical Cable -> Alpine PXA-H701 DSP
... Alpine -> JBL BPx1100.1 & JBL PX300.4
... JBL BPx1100.1 -> 2 Eclipse 88120
....JBL PX300.4 -> 2 sets Focal 165K2P
With that said I want my TSX to sound good and know that the TSX headunit will be the weakest link. But maybe that doesn't have to be. I've heard good things about the CleanSweep from JL Audio and it would be nice to hear other peoples reactions as to if/when they used in on the factory TSX headunit.
Alpine told me that the PXA-H701 I have should work fine with the Preamp out on the TSX radio. We shall see. I'd like to hear an install with a cleansweep to see if it's worth all the hype ....or just a fancy line output converter.
Last edited by rmjjensen; 04-27-2006 at 06:44 PM.
04-27-2006 | 07:01 PM
#155
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Also ...I haven't seen an updated diagram so I posted the one I got off of my www.alldatapro.com ...it has the correct wiring colors ...makes life easier if anyone is still doing this:
http://www.expertwebcreations.com/pe.../tsx_audio.gif
http://www.expertwebcreations.com/pe.../tsx_audio.gif
04-27-2006 | 10:48 PM
#157
Thread Starter
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
In all seriousness, why ask a question that's been brought up that many times? Isn't "noob" the right term?
The ALLDATA wiring probably mimics the OEM shop manual wiring, which was WRONG for the 2005... it would be nice to get new colors that are verified, in the meantime, remember the pin numbers DON'T change.
The ALLDATA wiring probably mimics the OEM shop manual wiring, which was WRONG for the 2005... it would be nice to get new colors that are verified, in the meantime, remember the pin numbers DON'T change.
04-28-2006 | 12:14 AM
#158
Guinea Pig
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: At home
Originally Posted by elduderino
I don't think I've ever used this word before on any forum anywhere.
Noob.
Noob.
rmjjensen-from what I know (that amount varies depending on who you ask around here) the more gadgets you put between those HU "pre-pre-outs" and your amp, the cleaner the signal. I just wish eldude would market those secret widgets he uses to get his amp installs to sound so clean. I'm starting to like the motor noise, it sounds like I have a turbo. Kinda the same feeling I got when I use to put the baseball cards in the spokes of my bike tires to make it sound like a motorcycle.
04-28-2006 | 06:57 AM
#159
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 55
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We all have bad days. I don't take anything to heart, I actually find the whole "noob" thing to be immature, especially over a friggen online forum. But that's my opinion
The diagram I posted has the correct colors. I hooked my PXA-H701 DSP up last night and the colors worked fine. Look again at that diagram, it has two option for colors.
Take Left Front for example, it's either:
Red/Blu (+) & Yel (-) OR Yel(+) & Brown (-)
On my 2005 it was the yellow & brown option which wasn't in the original wiring diagram posted. This diagram I posted is 100% accurate and there doesn't seem to be any cross-fading/balancing when I balance/fade from the headunit.
So far so good, but I haven't hook up an external amp, just the DSP. The spectrum analyzer on the DSP looks good and I was able to run the DSP AND the stock AMP from the TSX radio preamp. Everything seems to be fine, even the remote turn on.
I figured that if the pxa-h701 had problems with diff-balanced inputs then I'd hear it through the stock amp while it was hooked up. Either by lower volume, distorted sound, noisy sound, clipping .....but nothing, sounds just as good as stock. This weekend I'll be able to install the amps and get some sound from this stock radio.
The diagram I posted has the correct colors. I hooked my PXA-H701 DSP up last night and the colors worked fine. Look again at that diagram, it has two option for colors.
Take Left Front for example, it's either:
Red/Blu (+) & Yel (-) OR Yel(+) & Brown (-)
On my 2005 it was the yellow & brown option which wasn't in the original wiring diagram posted. This diagram I posted is 100% accurate and there doesn't seem to be any cross-fading/balancing when I balance/fade from the headunit.
So far so good, but I haven't hook up an external amp, just the DSP. The spectrum analyzer on the DSP looks good and I was able to run the DSP AND the stock AMP from the TSX radio preamp. Everything seems to be fine, even the remote turn on.
I figured that if the pxa-h701 had problems with diff-balanced inputs then I'd hear it through the stock amp while it was hooked up. Either by lower volume, distorted sound, noisy sound, clipping .....but nothing, sounds just as good as stock. This weekend I'll be able to install the amps and get some sound from this stock radio.
04-28-2006 | 10:13 AM
#160
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert, Arizona
The colors were correct for my 2005 as in the Helm's electrical manual. I agree with CJams on the more Pre-amp equipment the better. I have a Clarion eq and ALMOST no noise. I have to admit, I get a random tick snap sound, about every few minutes, but its very quiet. I only notice it if I drive with the volume below 4. It seems to happen more with the A/C set to AUTO. I almost think its being inducted thru the wires somewhere. I think a line driver would help since I the amp gains are over 3/4 turned up since the deck signal is weak and the clarion eq doesn't bump up the voltage. I figure if the noise is getting picked up thru the wires, put the line driver below the deck so maybe it will allow me to reduce the amp gains and will reduce the amplification of the ticks, unless of course the ticks are coming thru the deck. Then its DOOOOHH!!!
Any opinions on this Eld and the line driver, any brand driver you'd recommend?
Any opinions on this Eld and the line driver, any brand driver you'd recommend?