I went to the shop I go to and they had a ready made box with a 10W7 in in and it sounded AMAZING. This little ten incher was so clean and loud I wanted to buy it on the spot, but then I realized, I'm keeping everything else factory.........OH WELL

 

Nicky Pass:
What and you though I was bullshitting this whole time? I just got my brother 3 JL 13w7's at $450 apiece...heh heh...

Austin519

 

So 1 10W7 would probably too much for the stock Bose!!!!!!

 

I heard the (one) 13W7 today! It makes me want the 12W7!!

(Austin, how much for one 12W7 in its proper, ported enclosure??)

I stopped by yet another audio shop earlier in my never-ending hunt for a HU, and the guy was playing though some MBQuarts and the 13W7.

I'll tell you, that beast is lound and tight. I was surprised/impressed. So now maybe I don't want 2 12" Memphis Studio Series Subs. Oh well, here we go again!

BTW, the HU's he had were Clarion & Eclipse.

 

Acuraman:
Heh heh yeah man...all it takes is money. Well...I used to be able to get the 12w7's for $492 shipped...I believe I can get them less now (I just got a better hookup with JL)...as for the box it all depends on the type of box you want. You can get a standard ported enclosure carpeted for no more than $100 (and that's a well built one). Neon and plexi windows are obviously more...but it shouldn't be more than $200 for a great box for 1 12w7. For 2 it shouldn't be beyond $300 for a really nice one. Yeah the w7's blow just about everything away . So you're HU shopping already eh? Any good results so far?

Austin519

 

Buddy, I've BEEN HU shopping for way too long already. The results ==>

So, tell me about JL equipment (subs & amps in particular) as far as SQ & durability/reliability. Do they offer what I want (based on my other HU thread and the PM I sent to you)?

Also:

What is "damping factor" and how does it relate to amp performance in both Class D (sub amps) and Class AB amps.

Example: Compare the following values and tell me which is superior over the other;

Damping Factor >500@4-ohm/50Hz vs. >125@100Hz

Damping Factor >200@4-ohm per ch./50Hz vs. >125@100Hz

OK, gotta go to work to earn some money to buy stuff!!

Have a good one.

Later,

Pete

 

What type of box? I'm leaning towards sealed. It might be hard to find a W7 I can listen to in a sealed box. Is sealed the best for SQ and accuracy?

Austin, is there a box manf. that works well with the W7s, or will I need a custom build?

JL specs a sealed 1.275 cu. ft. box with a 1 in. baffle, 3/4 in. walls (10W7). I could make one.... but it is much easier to buy one.

 

Acuraman:
Dampening factor is the ability of the MOSFET amp to control the load, and will tell you how tight the sound is (control). The higher the better...but after about 50 it shouldn't matter. You have to look at a good low frequency and compare the two. It's calculated by dividing the speaker impedance by the output of the amp (and thus for higher speaker impedances it will increase). This is why higher impedances yield better SQ.

As for JL equipment...they have pretty good amps...though only worthwhile for 4-6 ohm impedances. For the lower impedances you would do better (cheaper price and more amp) getting another model. As for the subs...haha there's a reason why I only run JL. The subs are some of the best in the world.

Hope that helps.

Bluto:
Well JL makes H.O. boxes but IMO they're ugly and too damn expensive. Sealed is the most accurate if you're not a good box builder...but ported and bandpass can be just as accurate (bandpass can even be moreso within its bandrange) in terms of distortion and also much more efficient. I would suggest a bandpass box if at all possible...or at least a ported. No reason to not maximize on the w7's by using a plain old sealed box.

Austin519

 

I agree with ya on JL's boxes.
I could do OK building a box. But, my friend builds custom furniture and cabinets. So professional woodworking experience and tools are not a problem. Designing a box is. I want to balance a small enclosure with good sound. I don't want to use 1/2 of my trunk or waste a lot of space. Keeping the center pass-through would be ideal.

The data sheet for the 10W7 has a recommended slotted box:
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10W7_DS.pdf

Is JL's design ideal? I'm not sure what specifications/numbers are more important. How could I adjust the enclosure dimensions to fit the CLs trunk better? I've found various software and calculations online. Maybe it is time to get my physics books out of the attic.
Thanks for your help.

 

I heard the redy made box from JL........I think it sounded perfect!!!