How do I hook up a line output converter???
I have a 1999 tl with navigation. I want to keep the head unit, but gut the factory speakers and amps. What kind of LOC do I need and how do i wire it in? I was told that if i keep the factory head unit, the navigation muting system will still work. Any help is appreciated.
nimesh1963
nimesh1963
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 985
Likes: 0
From: Monterey, CA
nimesh1963 - welcome to the board!
I have a '99 also (but no Nav) and replaced the 4 door spkrs and sub and added two PG amps. I used a PIE 4-channel LOC. Cut the 8 spkr wires coming out of the H/U and spliced/soldered them to the proper leads from the LOC. Then ran RCAs from the LOC to my EQ and then RCAs to the amps. I can give you the color codes for the wires if needed. I'm sure that StreetEffectz(Ron) can answer the questions you have about the NAV part - he's the Moderator of this section and a car audio wiz and dealer - he'll be by here soon. Oh, I also got my LOC from him upon his recommendation.
------------------
<A HREF="http://www.acura-tl.com/_borders/TL_in_Pacific_Grove.jpg" TARGET=_blank>1999 ACURA 3.2TL
</A>
Performance:
Comptech Exhausts | Comptech Springs | Versus Turismo Spada 18x7.5 | Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR18 |
Security:
Clifford IG9000 loaded with all features & SuperBrite Blue LEDs | Valentine One w/ concealed display | McGard SplineDrive wheel locks/lugs | S&W 645
Audio:
Bose Headunit...for now | Alpine ERE-G190 Sub Processor/EQ | Phoenix Gold ZX400ti & ZX475ti Amps | Alumapro BP-10 Sub | Infinity Kappa 63.1 & 52.1 speakers | Custom speaker adapters | PG 1.2 farad Cap | GSI Fused Dist Panel | PIE Line Output Converter | PG wiring & cables | R/F 100-amp circuit breaker |
Effects:
Custom painted rotors & calipers | OEM Burlwood Guage bezel | Dynamat Trunk kit | Levoc pedals | Future mods: Blue neon; Inspire tails
"The digital pimp hard at work."
TL Daddy's pics
<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by TL Daddy on January 24, 2001 @ ]</font>
I have a '99 also (but no Nav) and replaced the 4 door spkrs and sub and added two PG amps. I used a PIE 4-channel LOC. Cut the 8 spkr wires coming out of the H/U and spliced/soldered them to the proper leads from the LOC. Then ran RCAs from the LOC to my EQ and then RCAs to the amps. I can give you the color codes for the wires if needed. I'm sure that StreetEffectz(Ron) can answer the questions you have about the NAV part - he's the Moderator of this section and a car audio wiz and dealer - he'll be by here soon. Oh, I also got my LOC from him upon his recommendation.
------------------
<A HREF="http://www.acura-tl.com/_borders/TL_in_Pacific_Grove.jpg" TARGET=_blank>1999 ACURA 3.2TL
</A>Performance:
Comptech Exhausts | Comptech Springs | Versus Turismo Spada 18x7.5 | Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45ZR18 |
Security:
Clifford IG9000 loaded with all features & SuperBrite Blue LEDs | Valentine One w/ concealed display | McGard SplineDrive wheel locks/lugs | S&W 645
Audio:
Bose Headunit...for now | Alpine ERE-G190 Sub Processor/EQ | Phoenix Gold ZX400ti & ZX475ti Amps | Alumapro BP-10 Sub | Infinity Kappa 63.1 & 52.1 speakers | Custom speaker adapters | PG 1.2 farad Cap | GSI Fused Dist Panel | PIE Line Output Converter | PG wiring & cables | R/F 100-amp circuit breaker |
Effects:
Custom painted rotors & calipers | OEM Burlwood Guage bezel | Dynamat Trunk kit | Levoc pedals | Future mods: Blue neon; Inspire tails
"The digital pimp hard at work."
TL Daddy's pics
<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by TL Daddy on January 24, 2001 @ ]</font>
TL Daddy, thanks for the reply. The color code for the speaker wires would be helpful if you have them. I have MB Quart PSC 216 6.5 components for the front and back. I have a Premier 4 channel for them and a Premier 2 channel i will bridge to run one sub. I was wondering if i need to take out the bose amps from the car or just leave them in, since all that will be bypassed anyway. Also, why did you add an EQ? What is its advantage? Do i need one?
nimesh1963
nimesh1963
I take it you are gonna be running a PRS-X720 and PRS-X340? Very solid amps if so. Anyway, you won't lose the mute feature because the interface between the factory head unit and the navi take care of that and you aren't interfering with that in any way. The LOC is pretty simple to hook up. If you don't want to go through the hassle of pulling the headunit out, you can grab the signals for the speakers from under the door sills. I do have the wiring codes written down here but I didn't write which one was positive or negative. I can get them though from one of my "BUDDIES" here on the board with the electrical helm manual.
E.Q. This is good to have if you want a lot more control over your sound. No, you don't need one, but if you want to have detailed control over different bands (frequencies) in the music, than this is a good way to go. Don't know what kind of crossovers you will be using, but GOOD ones are always a plus!
Email me if you have more questions...I'll be happy to help you out!
ron@streeteffectz.com
E.Q. This is good to have if you want a lot more control over your sound. No, you don't need one, but if you want to have detailed control over different bands (frequencies) in the music, than this is a good way to go. Don't know what kind of crossovers you will be using, but GOOD ones are always a plus!
Email me if you have more questions...I'll be happy to help you out!
ron@streeteffectz.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Here's a response I got from Soundgate to a similar question I had about LOCs. Hope it helps!(my orig letter is below the response)
"You are right on the configuration of your factory system. I would suggest
two of our LOC4's for the main speakers. For the sub amp, you can try
hooking it up direct by just soldering RCA's onto the factory sub out on the
factory head. Some of the aftermarket amp manufacturers have gone to a
sort-of differential input which has a tendency to give you all kinds of
grief. I would suggest our LOCPREA for coming off of the factory preamp sub
signal. This will DC isolate the factory system from the new amplifiers and
keep any problems away."
Dear Soundgate,
>
> I want to select the correct Soundgate LOC for my 2001 Acura TL installation. I'm keeping the oem head unit but adding an amp & speakers for the doors and a new subwoofer amp and subwoofer.I believe the oem head unit utilizes regular speaker level output for the door speakers (no amps) and a balanced line output to a seperate oem
subwoofer amp. Can you recommend the proper LOC for:
1. The speaker level outputs going to the doors.
2. The balanced line signal going to the subwoofer amp (can you confirm it's balanced/differential?)
3. If I choose to instead feed a new subwoofer amp directly from the OEM subwoofer amp, which LOC would best apply?
>
> Thanks for your help
"You are right on the configuration of your factory system. I would suggest
two of our LOC4's for the main speakers. For the sub amp, you can try
hooking it up direct by just soldering RCA's onto the factory sub out on the
factory head. Some of the aftermarket amp manufacturers have gone to a
sort-of differential input which has a tendency to give you all kinds of
grief. I would suggest our LOCPREA for coming off of the factory preamp sub
signal. This will DC isolate the factory system from the new amplifiers and
keep any problems away."
Dear Soundgate,
>
> I want to select the correct Soundgate LOC for my 2001 Acura TL installation. I'm keeping the oem head unit but adding an amp & speakers for the doors and a new subwoofer amp and subwoofer.I believe the oem head unit utilizes regular speaker level output for the door speakers (no amps) and a balanced line output to a seperate oem
subwoofer amp. Can you recommend the proper LOC for:
1. The speaker level outputs going to the doors.
2. The balanced line signal going to the subwoofer amp (can you confirm it's balanced/differential?)
3. If I choose to instead feed a new subwoofer amp directly from the OEM subwoofer amp, which LOC would best apply?
>
> Thanks for your help
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