ResidualFreedom

Hello everybody....Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays

My TL had a great Christmas this year and will be a strong competitor this spring in some local SPL competitions... probably take a couple of months to design and install the set-up. I'm going to take some pics today, and I'll post them here later, I'll list everything then aswell.
I've hit 140+dbl with one 12inch in my old S-10 SS extended cab, in a self designed custom box, I'm pretty confident I'll be far, far over that with my new set up in the TL, but I wasn't able to find anyone elses SPL ratings for their TL.

I just did a search on " spl comp " in the audio section and had no threads come up... so I was curious what was the highest SPL (dbl) you've had /or seen in our TLs..

Thanks everybody for helping me out with this info.....

ResidualFreedom

Here they are...

2 x Concept PT15 - 15inch subs that can handle over 3000watts max, rated at 1250watts each.
1 x Concept CC-D2400 - 2400watts Class D amp rated at 1ohm stable, however can burp at 1/4 ohm.
1 x Concept 8 inch sub. - Rated at 300watts, bought to replace stock 9inch sub.

A buddyof mind placed 2nd in the IASCA finals with two of these exact subs, hitting 157dbl, so I can't wait to see (hear) what they'll do in my car.



So just to ask again...

What's the highest SPl (dbl) you've ever heard in a TL? anybody.....??

ou sig

Those subs are for real, thats for sure. But the thing holding you back is the trunk...Its easy in an extended cab truck or SUV, but not in a car - how many cars (not hatchbacks) do you see in SPL comps??? Not many. Not like it cant be done though. You should check out Austin 519's system on Cardomain. That is how our cars can win in SPL comps.

And why are you putting another sub in the stock location??? I mean that is going to lower your SPL quite a bit and you will probably just mess that little sub up with the massive amounts of air those 2 15's will move. Not to mention your poor trunk lid!!! hahaha mine is screaming for some help when I let my 12's loose, I can only imagine your trunk. Also, you (all of us) lose alot of SPL from a rattling trunk lid because it doesnt provide a air tight enclosure for the subs. Anyway, Im sure you know all of this, just telling you. But good luck, and Ill get mine tested soon to compare.

ResidualFreedom

I've got a couple of funky ideas to play around with for our trunk... I jumped 5 dbl by redesigning the box in my old truck... Our car/trunk is much harder to work with but it'll be fun playin'....

Oh and the 8inch is to ballance out the bass for everyday listening... good point about overpowering it from the pressure from the other two speakers... I will probably pull it out during competitions. I just thought two 15s will be really deep....an 8 inch or a 10 would help the sound quality...

My buddy was using a Turbo Start three post battery... Have you ever heard of one of these??? I just recently checked them out
... one post ground (obviously), one post 12volt (for your car) and the third post a 22volt (for your system).. You would have to get a regulator (a dilal adjuster), because most amps would blow when hooked up with 22volts. However when you bass hits hard... you are already holding back 10volts on that dedicated circuit (post) for your stereo. It'll beat a cap anyday....according to the Iasca buddy of mine capacitors are crap for SPL.

ou sig

Best thing for our trunk is to port them up through the stock sub hole or make a custom rear deck like that guy did that I told you about. Or utilize the ski hole. Just to get the max sound into the cabin without anything in its way. That 8 inch sub wont do anything for better SQ with those 15's because they are WAY more powerful that it. I mean you will need like 4 8's for the midbass to keep up with your 15's.

I have heard some about that battery...very interesting idea, basically just to make sure you dont fall below 14.4 or 12 volts during a big bass hit I assume. The same thing can be accomplished by installing 2 batteries in parallel. I dont see how Capacitors are crap for SPL comps? I mean they arent really made for that, but they will still help some. For that situation, you need voltage from a battery...a capacitor dumps all its juice way too fast, so yes I guess they arent the best, but they do help for "normal" listening.

What do you plan on doing for your alternator? No way is it going to power that amp to its potential.

ResidualFreedom

lol....well one the ideas I'm playing with is cutting two 8 inch round holes on either side of the stock sub. Covering them with round speaker covers giving the appearance of a stock setup, if our cars came with two additional speakers in the rear deck lid. With addition to that I will be attempting to make two seperate boxes on either side of the trunk ... using the 8inch "speaker" holes on the rear lid as ports... That way I can keep the arm rest down and allow the sound from the trunk to get out, aswell as the ports on the top will "bounce" the bass of the rear windshield...might need a new windshield

um alternator....I guess I'll have to tackle that when I get to it... I haven't had any relyable advice yet twords a replacement for our cars. I know I'll need one if I really want to compete.. but I'm not sure how soon.

ou sig

Ya that is a good idea to port them like that. Just got to make sure you keep all your port specs and box specs correct. Gets complicated very fast with a custom type of port like that, but will pay off if you get it right.

Really I wouldnt mess with that 8 incher...just my opinion of course

Ya the stock alternator can handle about 1400 watts RMS but you will have well over that. You can get it re-wound to get about 190 amps out of it. That will give you all you need. You really need to look at that guys site, he talks about this also because he did it. Get an Optima Yellow top battery if you dont get that other battery...they are really good for that deep draw situation of big systems.

ResidualFreedom

who?



I'll try searching on here..

ou sig

he isnt on this site anymore...go to Cardomain .com like I said and search for Acura TL's. then sort my more hits or views. His is like the most nearly. Austin519 I think

LIGHTBEING

yeah, Austin did mad shit to his set up. He's on AW.com. Got his Alternator rebuild by Ohio Generators for $300. Which I was looking into but the only problem is you will be without an Alt for like a week, which in my case is not possible. I need my car pretty much everyday. You can probably get a brand new one built from them for around $600 or so... not sure if it's direct bolt on. I've done mad research on HO Alternators cuz I definitely need one. I tried working with Excessive Amperage but they had some problems with getting the diodes and said they wouldn't be able to make me one for a while. So I'm going with anther realiable small company that custom builds Alternators, Iraggi Alternators. He can have one built in 2 weeks 200 amp for $420.

best way to go about it is get all your eqpt hooked up and do the Big 3 first with all 1/0 gauge wiring, then take it from there. I'm sure you will have voltage drops but atleast you will be able to play your system til you get the new Alt. caps won't do much in your case. you need a HO Alternator and a deep cycle battery.

BTW, those subs look nice....good luck on the install and take pics!!!!!!

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I want to get my ported w7 measured. I know for a fact that its louder than 3 12w3v2s in a sebring on a Kx1200.1.

vidoprof

I got the Yellow top in my car and let me tell you I am lovin it.. It allows the bass to hit and nothing dims yet. I am running alot of power as well. close to 2500W.

I am posting pics tomorrow hopefully in the 3rd gen forum audio.

I ahve 2 12's ported through the ski hole and it is pretty damn loud. I want to measure it soon.. Just have to find a place to get it measured.

Ryan

Good luck with the subs. I have 2 12's and each are getting roughly 750W.

ed99

I hit over 145db running RF 1000bd amp (1200 watts) into 2-12 Type R DVC in a sealed box in my previous Integra type R. And I am running the exact set-up in my new TL but I have a huge problem with my trunk rattles. Do you think dynomating the trunk will get rid of all the rattles 100%. I am currently running over 1200watts into the pair of subs facing the rear and when I turn the volume up past 14 my trunk rattles like crazy. I can see the trunk's sheet metal shaking/flexing causing it to rattle. Because of it, I cannot turn the volume so high b/c the rattle has drowned out the base from outside. And it is very embarassing when other ppl hear nothing but rattles. So my question is would dynomat my whole trunk work???? IF so how much would it cost to dynomat the trunk??? Or is their any other suggestions out their to rectify this problem!!!! And yes I have the ski path thru open and that does not help one bit. Thanks dudes!!!

LIGHTBEING

Ed,

Yeah, definitely dampen your trunk with that kinda power. You should be able to get most of the rattles out. Dynamat is overpriced IMO. Get something like Cascade, secondskin, or eDead. I got 100 sq ft of eDead for around $100.

Try doing you entire trunk once over, see how it works, if it still rattles, put another layer over it.


Also, try doing the doors as well to get more midbass.

UnsanePyro

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...7&postcount=11 If it is any help...

ou sig

I have Dynamat all over my ride, except for the bottom of the trunk. Mine still rattles. Its just from all the air movement inside the trunk - only bolting it down will get rid of it. That is why it would be best to port them to the inside of the cabin to get rid of some of that air pressure inside the trunk, that would help the rattles.

ed99

Is their any places or hidden places that needs to be dynomat in the rear trunk. I feel like alot of the rattle is coming from the bumper/tail light/ and the trunk especially.

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

THeres a heat flap on the left hand side of the trunk behind the lining. I duct taped it, and solved one of my problems. Then I lowered the trunk latch to make the trunk close a little tighter. Also dynmatted behind plate.

ed99

Can I lower my trunk latch for my 2004 TL???? Thanks guys!!!

ou sig

I did that on my '99 and it helped some, but you dont have much adjustment available. And when you do lower it some, your trunk doesnt match up with your rear fenders.

ResidualFreedom

Good Point... I'm thinking about lining the trunk with some foam, where the rubber gasket is... There is some foam at Home Depot, typically used for covering 3/4inch copper water piper (to maintain heat in your hot water pipes), you could easily place that foam around the trunk, where the rubber gasket is, and see if that works to get rid of the rattles. If it does, you may want to cut it and attach it properly with double sided tape or attach it to the lid of the trunk, which ever looks better, I honestly just thought about it now so I'm not sure where the foam would look the best...

ou sig

Ya that may be a good temporary fix, but I wouldnt want it to mess up the original rubber gasket...by giving it the wrong shape because you could end up making it worse and have your trunk leak! that would suck, especially if you had expensive stuff in there.

The only real way to rid your trunk of the rattles is to get most of the sub bass directly into the cabin and not have it build up inside the trunk. because anything other than bolting your trunk lid down, wont really get rid of it.