HELP--Upgrading Stock Speakers--HELP

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Old 10-06-2004 | 11:41 AM
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HELP--Upgrading Stock Speakers--HELP

I have done some sesarching on the forum, but can't get the REAL answer I want to hear. Some threads are saying if I try to change my stock speakers , but still utilizing the headunit I would lose signal/volume. What is the real deal? I was thinking of putting some Infinity's in, but not change the HU until later, maybe. How will changing the stock speakers and still using the stock sub sound? If I need to change my sub, I have a 12" Momo/Polk sub I can stick in the back. I need your advice!! Thanks in advance.
Old 10-06-2004 | 06:42 PM
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BUMP, anyone??????
Old 10-06-2004 | 07:01 PM
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heere is the deal with changing just the speakers:

The factory head unit has a built in eq which limits the signal being sent to the speakers in the doors. Essentially what it does is cut off a decent sized portion of the highs and the lows. if you were to change just the speakers then you would be in possession of better quality speakers, but you would still have the sub-standard response from them off of the factory radio. Basically you would possibly be a little louder, but not much better. As it pertains to your stock sub, that actually runs on a seperate amp, so it would remain unaffected by the change in the door speakers.

Personally, with out knowing your budget, I would look at changing just the radio. the removal of the stock radio (which in turn means you have removeed the pesky eq and bose amp that powers the door speakers) and installation of the aftermarket radio will actually awaken your factory speakers and give you a fuller louder sound. This would cause you to lose the stock sub, but as you said, you have polk/momo sub laying around. Putting that to use would more than make up for the lack of the stock sub. All in all i imagine you would be pleased more so by the change in just the radio, than just the speakers.
Old 10-06-2004 | 07:50 PM
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Don't forget you would need a new amp for the sub too.
Old 10-06-2004 | 09:26 PM
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I'm actually in the middle of just such an upgrade. Replacing the speakers caused the sound to suck--and bypassing the Bose EQ caused the volume to decrease substantially. The preamp signal from the HU goes to a Bose EQ above the radio where the highs are jacked up and the lows are cut off. (To get decent response from the Bose single-driver paper cone speakers).

So, my simple speaker replacement ended up requiring a $300 pre-amp EQ/line driver, still sounded like shit, and now I'm buying an amp. (Over a grand so far).

The good news is that I am keeping the HU, and preserving the OEM look, which I favor.

The bad news is that it would have been much simpler and CHEAPER to just replace everything. (You could get a HU and front speakers for now and it would sound pretty good for substantially less than I'm spending)
Old 10-06-2004 | 09:35 PM
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PS - you can replace the HU and still keep the stock sub if you desire. You need to cut into the smaller harness in the back of the radio and send the mono preamp signal to the correct leads. (I think it's the black wire and the blue/green wire, but you need to search the archives or have me confirm before you start soldering anything). You also need to send power and ground to the EQ (pins 11 and 12), which I think will also get to the sub amp behind the rear seat. (If not, it's pin 1 on the big harness). The EQ is a separate unit from the HU.
Old 10-06-2004 | 09:37 PM
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I might just buy a new HU. Ok, what speakers would be a direct drop in replacement without too much modifications. I'm looking for coaxials. I know from other threads that the Polk DX6's are discontinued. What options do I have? I also have an MTX or Kenwood amp from previous installs, so power to the sub is covered. Thanks all .
Old 10-06-2004 | 10:30 PM
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You know, I forgot to verify that you have a second generation TL...

Assuming you do, all four doors will take a 6.5" speaker, if you build 3/4" spacers. (I used PVC sheet purchased from a sign shop). Use care, as the door cutout is tight, and the window will slide immediately behind the speaker. Make sure you buy them from somebody local so you can take them back if they're too deep.

Don't know anything about brands. I went with JBL P652 because they sounded good in the store and they were only $150/pair--and they fit (barely).
Old 10-07-2004 | 08:49 PM
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I started out experiencing the limitations of the Bose system. My grandmother would appreciate that system, but not me. I was initially going to cut into the HU harness and install line converters to plug in an aftermarket amp and speakers (Infinity Kappa 60.5cs) and a sub. I was afraid of replacing that huge Bose HU with a single DIN unit. After searching several forums, I couldn't find any kit or procedure that matched the rest of the dash and console. Then I found this thread that featured some wood burl ABS plastic that matched the other trim in the car. This gave me enough hope to replace everything. 6 months and $4,500 later, I'm nearly where I want to be. I've worked on a process to build several layers of lacquer on the ABS plastic to get rid of the small waves from processing and give it the depth and luster found on the trim next to it. It looks really nice. I would rather color match the blackish trim pieces, but have not found anything convincing to give up the wood finish.

This whole process has been a pain in the ass and worth every minute. Get ready for something similar if you do it yourself like me.

Nakamichi CD 45z
Alpine RUX 4280
Audio Control DXS, EQT
Soundstream 500.4VG
Alpine MRD-M500 (2)
Image Dynamics Pro minihorns, 6.5" midbass
JL Audio 12W6v2 (2) sealed
SPL 1.2 farad cap
and a whole bunch of wires
Old 10-07-2004 | 09:53 PM
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I want an upgrade, but damn, can't spend that type of money when I want to fix the exterior looks and performance. You have pics though? Would like to see the finished product.
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