After driving 05 TL loaner car for a week, I realized how terrible my stock sound system is in 03 CLS... time to upgrade.. my max? 1300 including installation by professionals... here's what I have so far:

one JL Audio 12W3v2-D4
two 12 subs Q Logic Box
Got it for 170 total from a memeber on this forum...

That leaves me with 1130 to spare... I'm currently in the middle of getting another 12W3v2-D4 for about 120 bucks...

My initial plan was to get two amps... (Mono amp for my subs, and Four channels for my speakers that I'm going to replace) Found two alpine (model no. 605, F345 each running at $230 on ebay).. First of all, are these amps considered good?? I'm a virgin when it comes to a sound system.. don't know whole lot about it.. so any recommendation would be helpful...

I was thinking about JL speakers for my front and rear and Alpine headunit to replace my stock hu.... not looking to spend more than 250 for the headunit ...

so yeah, any advice or feedback is welcomed... tell me what else I would need to get in order to get it installed such as wires, RCA connectors.. Looking to get them all brand new off ebay rather than retailers..

thanks in advance

 

Us retailers feel hurt... especially since you need expert advice to do that system, but seem unwilling to pay someone who's an expert to help you.

So out of $1K you want to spend 250 on the HU and the rest on two amps and F and R speakers? At the amp pricing you list, that only leaves $300 for both sets of speakers.

From a SQ perspective, you would get better results by bailing on the R speakers and getting the best F speakers you can (Alpine X, DLS, a/d/s/, Rainbow, etc.). You can't get very good sound for $150 a pair F and R.

Consider getting a set of 6" mids and tweets and running them off of that 345 in 4-channel mode (1/2 to the tweets, 1/2 to the mids).

 

Wait - I just saw the professional installation part... my bad.

So you need to scale back... no room in the budget for R speaks. Personally, you seem to be spending a lot on bass. If you were using only 1 woofer you could use a 4-channel amp to run everything and save parts costs and install costs.

HU + 2 amps + Kit + F speak install + R speak install = at least $275 IMO. May be cheaper around there, but you also need RCA and wire (that wiring plan should come from a trusted installer, not from us : )

So you need to extract some cost, I suspect.

 

i think for everything you want, u might need to spend a tad more, you are really cutting it close

 

 

well here's my math.. 250 for hu... 350 to 400 on speakers.... 500 for amps.. that adds up to 1100 to 1150 .... not including installation and any kits or wires... hifibuys quoted me 150 for installation not including any kits... say 100 bucks for kits... that would be 1350 to 1400 total after my subs... i think i can go with that as long as this budget will get me something better than 'decent'... I guess my question now is.. within this budget i just mentioned..any recommendation??

 

umm .. i would recomend to make your own box or get a better box. from what i've seen .. those Q logic box are i think made of particle board. and those kind of board arent very stiff and they break to pieces. you should get a box that's made of MDF(medium density fiber) board.

 

are you looking for an extreme amount of bass? if not, you can save the 120 and not buy the other W3v2, and sell your box, and make a new one. That might save you some money to put towards better speakers up front.

 

Sounds like you need to decide if you are more SQ, sound-quality oriented or SPL bass-loudness oriented.

 

sound quality oriented!!

 

Then lose that second 12" and that dual-woofer box!

$1130. -250 for the HU and you have $880.

Two options I see:

1) Get a big 4-channel or 3-channel amp. Get very good F comps. I figure you *might* get 1 amp, a set of comps, and a HU installed for $150. If you can't trade that box for a single, you can get one from edesignaudio.com for like $125.That leaves $600.

Looking at the JL Recommended power range chart for that woofer, more than $250 goes into the danger zone... so you can run a bigger 4-channel or a 3-channel safely and cleanly.

For instance, you could run an Alpine 345 and still have enough for the Alpine X-type seperates (still not convinced the X 6.5 fits a TL/CL, but the 5.25 would ...) That leaves money for wires, dash kit, and RCas.

Or I can set you up with a DLS 3-channel amp and my avincar front comps for about the same price (50x2 and 170 x 1...) But thta's just a shameless plug - either way, I think for SQ you should go 1 amp and F comps only, saving install costs (2nd amp, R speaks) and just 1 12".

2) Admit that SQ ain't important : )

 

2) Admit that SQ ain't important : )

hahahaha... no i'm serious... I have no intention of breaking nearby windows with two 12"... only reason i was going for two 12" was that since this will be my only kind of modification to my car I wanted to go with somethig that i won't regret.. i believe in 'too much is always better than too little'... just from top of my head, if i were to go with 1 12", i'll be saving - (120 for second sub, 250 for mono amp) total of 370... but then... it would require me getting rid of that box and purchasing something to fit my single 12"

Let's say, I do take your advice and go with 1 12"... but I still want to replace all my speakers... u think alpine 345 is going to be enough to handle all that??? one more thing, I don't know if i mentioned this in posts above but I was looking at JL audio speakers rather than Alpine just b/c i haven't heard much of them before...

 

FYI, the same Euro OEm makes the JL stuff and the Alpine X-type, based on what I hear. Neither company is very good as F speaks, that's why they outsource design and manufacture (with woofs, JL does lots of "design").

The Alpine X types are not like other Alpine speaks. They are better than the JL speaks in many perople's opinion.

Why do you want F and R speakers? (I should point out that I don't want you to use any of your current speakers - I want you to use a sub, two mids, and two tweets).

(Rhetorical aside- Why do so many people *say* they want SQ, and then refuse to use the system architecture used by more SQ champions than any other layout? Sub(s) in the back, 2 mids, 2 tweets in the front - read it, learn it, live it. The only thing R speakers give you is more volume, and they do nothing for SQ but foul it up.)

OK, I'm back now. : )

 

explain this please - "use a sub, two mids, and two tweets"... are u referring two mids and two tweets as two front speakers on my doors and two tweeters right above it? so completely disconnect my rear speakers? I was told our rear spekars (BOSE) has built-in subwoofers so those need to be removed when an aftermarket sub is installed.. correct me if i'm wrong... I was thinking, coaxial for front and componets for rear... (that's if components are the ones with tweeters and speakers combined.. I always get that confused...) how much do alpine X types cost anyway??? name me some good places to shop.. Thanks

 

1) No OEM speakers at all. No OEM sound system parts at all in fact.

2) Two tweeters and two mids up front, a sub in the back.

You've stated that you are all about SQ. That's heartening and encouraging. However, I politely suggest you have some learning to do about SQ and how it happens. Have you had a chance to read this? https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-video-electronics-navigation-22/car-audio-basics-sq-noobs-289959/

An SQ system - one that reveals details, creates a good illusion of space and location, and doesn't distort in frequency or time - uses fewer drivers than you might think.

Components have separate tweets, coaxials have the tweeter and midwoofer mounted on the same axis thorugh the center - hence, co-axial.

 

you could always go for Orion Comp amps

 

Yes, somebody needs to buy them before Orion pulls an Oldsmobile : )

 

 

Hey, I'm not knocking the gear, but it's kinda hard to find out there, isn't it?

 

true. My friends who have had Orion stuff really liked it but i have NEVER seen it in ANY store here. But then again, we dont get much here except the run-of-the-mill brands

 

I would think Zapco and Arc Audio would be easy to find?

Orion and PPI just suffer from being poorly marketed by Directed.

 

First thing is buy the headunit. Whatever one you want. Make sure it has a good preoutput. That will give you the details of how much you can spend.

After you have this number.. Sell the box dont buy the other 12 and get the BEST component set you can afford. If you really are about SQ then try and look into a set of kick panels (might not be in your budget or they might not make them for your car).

Yes you ONLY NEED a component set up front (preferably in kick panels) and the sub. A 3 or 4 channel amp will run this setup just fine.

Enjoy..

Ryan

 

Alright.. so i go with one sub... Why not replace my R speakers?? are u saying, just to leave it the way it is?? or disconnect my stock BOSE R Speakers?? What would be beneficial if I do replay R-speakers with something decent aftermarket meaning nothing TOO expensive... Would I still be able to connect F and R speakers and my 12" sub with 4 channel amp?? and if I do any recommendation?? I was thinking that Alpine V12 345...

 

okay i decided to go with one sub.... sell my dual box and get me a customized single box ... hope it wouldnt' cost so much.. question tho... alpine F345 and F545 ... which one??? F545 costs about 100 bucks more which i'm willing to spend since i'll be going with one amp rather than two... Is this amp going to be TOO much for my single 12" sub with F speakers and R speakers (yes... i would like to replace my R speakers).. let me know

Also, any recommendation on F speakers and R Spekaers.. if possible, I like to keep it in Alpine family..hahaha much appreciate it

 

IF you can get more power for $100, that's always a good idea, and it should not be too much for your 12" (that's not to say that you can't overdrive your sub - but if you do, it's your fault, NOT the amp's fault...)

However, with a 4-channel amp, how are you going to power rear speakers? You don't want them on the same channels as your fronts. And why do you have R speakers again? I mean, really, why? I'm not telling you you're wrong, I don't know your motivation.

BTW, the Chinese-made speakers don't know that they have a freakin' Alpine logo on them and the Danish-made ones don't know it either. Totally irrelevant to try to keep it in the family, except from a sticker-engineering point of view. If you buy Alpine, buy Type X comps, probably the 5.25's for the TSX F door. If you don't want to spend that much, THEN drop the R speakers and downgrade to the 345 amp if possible to get the better F comps.

 

church lady (SNL): rear speakers? is that satan i hear trying to mess up my front stage? rear speakers, go back to hell where you belong!!!

(my apologies to Dana Carvey)

 

 

okay... explain to me why cars have R speakers then?? what purpose do they serve, also if I don't have R speakers wouldn't I notice anything different esepcailly if I was sitting in my backseats?? Basically you are saying, get tweeters and F speakers and disconnet or remove my rear ones leaving my car soundless in the back (sorta??)... I'm just not understand what you are saying about don't upgrade the R speakers when Acura decided to put them for some purposes... As far as overpowering my sub, I'm looking to get professional installation so don't think they want to fcuk it up or anything... but if I go with F545, I can't hook up F and R speakers plus my sub??

I have 03 CLS. I tell you b/c u keep saying go with 5.25's for the TSX F door, but it's my understandin CLS have 6.5' in front. correct me if i'm wrong. What kind of kit would I need for my car? I'm looking to purchase on ebay and take it to the retailer for installation rather than paying ridiculously overpriced ones that they sell. Thanks again

 

Cars have R speakers:

1) Because back in the frickin' day, that was the only place the goddamn speakers fit.

2) Because to play louder without more watts per channe,l the only thing you can do is increase the cone area, so F and R speakers play louder.

3) Because they didn't want to answer the same damn question from people like you over and over again - "but why aren't there any rear speakers?"

If you want Acura to be the ultimate arbiter of your sound quality, pally, why are you upgrading the system they saw fit to install in your car? Shouldn't you simply stay wityh what you got, and not change a thing?

The TSX and the TL both have 6.5 provisions, but bigger 6.5's like the Scan-made cast-frame Alpine X-type mids don't fit - but their 5.25's do fit and are often used. 5.25's often have better upper mids than 6.5s, even though they don't play quite as loud in the lower notes (but the sub will take care of that).

And as far as being ridiculously overpriced at a retailer, why don't you .... <deep breath> reconsider that ignorant statement. Sure, things cost more at brick and mortar stores. Why? Because they are trying to rip you off? Is that what you think? Maybe some are, but most of the time, ebay and internet pricing are not delivered to you by a goodhearted market economy bestowing justice, it happens due to manufacturers who SAY they want to support install shops' making a living, but then don't practice what they preach - making it near impossible for a store to make any money. Unlike me giving advice on this forum for free, install shops are supposed to make money on sales of gear and installation - and installation alone won't pay the rent, trust me.

Sorry, I have to go work on my store so I can rip off some more people.

 

its ok Eld,

breath. stretch. shake. let it go

 

hahaha.. I'm terribly sorry but I forgot that you are an official vendor while writing that... I guess I did offend you with my last post... once again terribly sorry...

So just leave my R speakers disconnetced??? I'll look into how much Alpine X 5.25' cost.. b/c i've been sitting here searching for 6.5' speakers.. Do u think it's smart to cut my dual box in half rather than purchasing a single sub box?? I figured may be I can mount my amp to the side that i'll be cutting and hopefully utiltize it rather than trying to sell it... How do most ppl set up their amp in cls??

 

I swear this would be last thing to ask.. but if I do all this setup but stick with my stock Headunit??? I checked from another post and it says our stock HU delievers 22watts * 4.. isn't that what most aftermarket HU plays anyway?? I was looking for mp3 player but then again, I like the way stock HU looks... not a big fan of fancy colors to distract me from driving...I guess as far as using CD-R to burn my mp3 files.. i'll start buying the actual CDs then.... (yeah right!)

 

i think you were reading about the TSX HU, the HU for the TL's and CL's do not have RCA outputs so you would have to resort to using a line-output converter. Now if you want SQ, this isnt the route to go.

 

any idea on how much line-output converter?? See, I was thinking if I do go with an aftermarket HU... i would be paying for dash-kit, the converter so I can use my steering wheel controls.. I guess this would run me another 100 bucks not to mention they charge separate installation for that converter to use ur steering wheel controls... I honestly don't mind spending 300 somethind dollars just to avoid whenever my CD-R gets stuck and displayed error message

 

line output converters are 20 dollars. but the point is why go all out on ur sound system when your source is poor quality?

 

i thought our head unit provides RMS 22 watts X 4 .... this is what I got from a link under audio & video.. so don't most aftermarket provide just about the same?

 

they might, but is the quality of the sound the same? I dont think our headunits come with a 24-Bit Burr-Brown Filter, as well other processing circuitry. do you see what im getting at?

 

gotcha... damn.. i guess answers to everything is... 'spending more money will get u better sound system'... know any good place to get a dash-kit?? I don't want those typical one that everyone uses from Accord... I was told to get something from streeteffects.. but their website doesn't work and i can't see what kind they are talking about.. the one I would like to have is one without any gap where ppl put their cds... hope they make sense.. i want as clean setup as i can get!!

 

yeah it makes sense. but becareful your statement is a bit general, which doesnt mean buy the most expensive thing out there. I believe that you should buy whatever sounds good to you. but you do get what you pay for.

StreetEffectz makes awesome dashkits, just PM him and give him a description of what you are looking for. Also, the standard Metra Dashkit, can be sanded down and it looks REALLY close to stock.

 

None of the Acura OEM HU's have RCA outputs... but many of them do have unamplified output wires. When I say that the TSX has "preouts", I don't mean RCA connectors - it certainly does not have those - but it does have "single-ended", non-balanced RCA outputs that can work with RCA connectors spliced onto them. (By contract, with most GM Bose systems, BMWs, Lexus, and Audi, this is not true - the pre-amp outputs will NOT work if you just splice RCAs onto them.)

So I think that the signal between the CL amp and the HU is usable exactly the way the TSX HU signal is usable. Haven't proved it yet... but I know there's an amp in the trunk of the CL.

HOWEVER, I also agree that you will get better SQ with an aftermarket HU... and if I had a CL, or TL, I would have swapped out the HU first thing. So my advice is to go ahead and swap it out, since you can (and we TSX owners can't : (

Contact Ron as StreetEffectz about a dash kit that rocks.