I've had my TSX for 3 days now and I'm so eager to rip out the stereo system. Ideally I want to replace all 8 speakers, but for cost effecitveness I'm just going to do the front tweets, front door speakers and rear deck speakers for now and consider the rear door speakers later.

Front: Currently for the front I am considering the CDT CL-61 components. I've heard they install fine with spacers. I know they need a better amp to push them, but can the stock job do a decent enough job until I can afford a better amp (maybe for a month or two). Any other speakers in this price range that'd be recomended?

Rear:I haven't quite decided yet on what to do. There's been talk of those MBQuart RCE 6x9's and just using the woofers and not installing the tweets from them, and just crossing them over at 80-90hz and down. This was a suggestion in that thread and from a couple people. My question on these speakers is 2 fold. Again, can I get away using them with the stock amp for a little while? and 2) Can I just install some coaxial 6x9 in there (that'd be cheaper) and cross it over the same way. Basically how much worse will a coaxial playing 90hz and down be than the MBQuart midbass playing 90hz and down? Like if it was MB coaxial vs MB midbass from the component set Also, if I decide not to use rear door speakers, should I have the rear deck play full range instead of just bass?

Amplification: There are 2 approaches I'm thinking of taking here.
1) I get a 4 channel for the front components and the rear deck and then if I decide to install rear door speakers later, get a 2 channel and switch it such that the door and dash tweets are on the 4ch and the rear 6x9s are on the 2ch

2) What about a 5 channel? 5 channels are usually a 4 channels of equal wattage and then a 5th mono channel of higher wattage. Since the 6x9s only get bass in the stock setup, and those that suggest the MBQuarts are also doing the same (just using them as bass), why not treat it like a makeshit subwoofer. Lets say I get a 5 channel amp that's 40w x 4ch and use that for the front and rear doors and use it's 100w mono 5th channel and wire the rear 6x9s in parallel to it. Any thoughts on that? (this is the main question i'm concerned with in this whole post)

Brands: As i said before, I'm willing to spend up to about $150 on front speakers and $150-$200 on rear deck speakers. If you can think of a different brand I should go with other than CDT/front and MBQuart/rear please offer suggestions.

Also about amps, I'm not really sure what to do. I had an alpine 40w x4 previously that was nice in my old car, and it looks like it's $150 online. Should I get more wattage for those speakers?

What about Hifonics amps, there seems to be great deals on them on onlinecarstereo.com. Are they junk? I remember hearing some good things about them a few years ago, but I also saw that their sister brand is Crunch, which is bad, so I'm not sure if Hifonics is bad too.

Any other budget/good bang-for-buck amps?

Thanks for any help you can offer. I'll probably buy in peices and install at once. Like get the CDT's this month .. maybe the MB's next month.. and an amp the next month and then install it all afterwards.

But if I can get away with running the CDT and/or the MBQuarts off the stock amp for a little while without hurting them (obviously not going to/past distortion), then I'd like to try and do that for the time being.

-vasu

 

I have had great luck with my Orion amps, though they're the older models and I don't know crap about the new ones. I used Arc amps in my Jetta, then tried to use it in my Civic and it would overheat within about 10 minutes. Arc was even stumped.

As far as the CDT's, I think you'll be very pleased. Everyone loves mine, and I've heard that the quality is present in all their model lines, not just the Eurosports.

 

Thanks for the info... lets keep it comin!

I'm really excited at the prospect of CDT, i've heard a lot of great things about them.

I'm really intersted if anyone knows about Hifonics amps, cause they got a 5 channelf for $230 that'd work well if my crazy 5 channel idea (if anyone thinks that's a good idea, that is).

lets keep the comments a flowin, I'm selling off my gamecube and midi keyboard and pooling some funds together.ooooh yeah.

-vasu

 

elduderino, where are you?

 

I've said my piece... this is fer y'all... : )

 

well in that case, buy a really expensive LOC and some full-range 6x9's!

 

Lmao...

 

erm... eh?

btw, the insurance company is letting me take out my alpine 40w x 4 amp from my totaled accord, so I'll have that to use. Will this be enough for a CL-61 and MBQuart?

I'll also have the accord's JL full range 6.5" that I could install in the rear doors down the road.

So at this point, since I have a decent amp to use, basically I just wanna know if I should go full range 6x9's or not? Filter them or not?

And is this 5 channel amp idea crazy (for down the road) ?

-vasu

 

well I'm running 75w to my CDT's, and I'm confident they could handle more.

This is the orion amp I'm running.

http://www.thezeb.com/p-Orion-XTREME...ier-102878.htm



I went with a separate amp for my mids because I just like having them separate. I really can't say whether Hifonics is any good though, I've had no experience. You might check out some car audio forums, www.elitecaraudio.com comes to mind (have to register to view though) and see what their impressions are.

 

Thank ya sir. What are you running in the 6x9 locations, if anything?

did you do anything with your back door speakers?

Also, you said you were running 75w, but that amp says it's 90 watts each per channel...

-vasu

 

oops, you're right it's 90w per channel. Since my install isn't in a tsx, your mileage may vary. I personally don't have any rear fill (in my car it sounded horrific), but in my Jetta I used some Eurosport mids, no tweeters. At one point I had some a/d/s mids installed in the rear locations, and it actually sounded fairly decent, but it moved the soundstage waaaay back, so I turned them off again. Now I just run some cheap Pioneer crap, only turned on when I have rear seat passengers (which is never).

 

maybe i'll help out:

vasu, if you've read any of a number of other system-planning threads, you might have noticed that 6x9's are only suggested if (1) you can't give up trunk space for a sub or (2) sound quality is not your priority. if you're in one of those camps, go for it and we'll give up trying to dissuade you. otherwise, get yourself a sub (10" or 12") and pop out the stock 6x9s. true subwoofers are simply better at producing low frequencies than 6x9s due to their shape.

anyway, you've got a 40x4 amp now? drop in some front speakers, CDTs are good (i've got HD-62s). don't compromise on the rears (or sub) if you're going to get a bigger amp in the future. and either way, play the rear speakers/sub low passed... you'll ruin your soundstage otherwise.

 

I had polk db series 6x9's in the back of my accord, adn they produced enough bass for me. I know I know, a sub would be better and can produce higher quality bass ... but I can't really afford it, give up the trunk space, etc. I agree with you, I just can't do it :-P

So yeah, i got that 40x4 ... you think 40 is enough for CDT CL61 Comps? Enough for those MBQuarts?

My final sticking point at the moment is this ... MB Quart 6x9 comps are $200, the tweeters and crossovers in the package are being tossed, and they're being filtered to just play below 90 or so. That's fine, I understand and agree with that. MB Quart (just to stay with the same company) also sells 6x9 coaxials for $130 or so, and I could filter those in the same fashion as well. So basically, how much better is using a 6x9 midbass going to be from the comp set vs. filtering (in in the same fasion) a set of coaxials.

And I hate to keep asking this, but does anyone have a thought on my wonky 5 channel idea of turning the back 6x9's into a mono bass channel? (4 channels for doors, 1 for the pair of 6x9)

Thanks again. If the 40w from my alpine will be enough for those CDT I'll order them tonight!

Also, will they fit ok with a plastic spacer available from a car audio store? I don't have the skill/tools for the wood spacers.

-vasu

 

Mono back end bad idea. Still seperation back there you'd lose, and too much power to by-nines to boot.

The MB Q 269 seperate is a different driver from that coax you mention. The 269 is actually the higher-end coax, since the tweeter can be attached to the phase plug. If you look at them side by side, the drivers are totally different.

Remember to sell the tweeters on eBay! You'll make some money back...

 

but wouldn't a sub be a mono back end?

 

OK, two comments:

1) The sub in the trunk would probably be crossed over lower than the 6x9's, and the upper end of the sub's output would be filtered by the trunk itself, letting only the lowest notes, which lack audible directionality, be heard by the driver. The 6x9's will be completely in the pass compartment, and if you have the ability, will probably be playing higher than the sub box would from the get-go.

2) Never mind.

 

elduderino: would 40w be decent enough to the MB's ?

It's funny that I'm selling a pair of my headphones and getting the same ammount as I'll spend on big car speakers, haha (i'm a headphone nut/snob)

-vasu

 

Morning Update...

1) Anonther member here stated that the CDT CL61 played loud and clear off the stock amp, so I'm confident it'll sound good enough for me off the Alpine MRP-F200 amp that i'll be using for now.

2) So i'm going to go around the 2 good local audio shops I know here in new orleans (Mobile One and Tunes). I'll ask if they've done TSX installs before, if they've bypassed the stock amp and installed new ones, and if they've installed speakers and all that stuff. And also get rates for installation. I figure while I'm there I'll also see what components they're selling/prices/etc. Sometimes Mobile One has some open box deals on Eclipse sepeakers.

3) So pretty much, all I need now is an idea of how much power those MBQuarts 6x9's are going to need, and if 40w isn't enough, can someone recomend andother 6x9 to go with? Oh, and my amp has an 80hz crossover, so the 6x9's will be playing that and below, and I might do 80hz and above for the front.

4) I'm going to just do the front doors/dash tweets and back deck 6x9's on this install and maybe down the road do the door speakers and add in another small 2 channel amp.
4b) However, I do have a pair of JL Audio VR650-CXi 6.5" coaxials from the old car that I could just pop into the rear doors and get them to wire them up and I'll add another amp later. Anyone have some ideas on this? Should I keep those JL's or maybe go with a pair of CDT Coaxials in the rear door to better match the front?

So yeah, on to the 6x9 discussions

-vasu

 

I KNEW you couldn't resist.

 

Notice I didn't discuss full-range 6x9's or LOC's : )

Seriously, vasu, you have more advice now that Bush did before he started a fricking war, dude. Is the Alpine "enough"? Maybe, maybe not, maybe matter of taste. Nike it, just do it, let US know, K? : )

 

My

I recently installed an Alpine MRV-340 (35W x4) with the same setup you are going for. Components up front with 6x9's in the rear and the back door speakers not hooked up. The installer messed up and didn't bypass the amp (which I am going to fix). Overall the power is plenty to drive the speakers.

My theory with the setup is similar to yours. If I don't like the sound I will add subs (and a mono amp), and put speakers in the rear door. I have had my current set up for about a month now, and I am happy with the fill and power. I doubt I will add the extra amp and speakers soon.

I am running PG Octane ZR 6.5 components and Octane-R 6x9's for speakers.

 

Thanks for the advice...i'll be ordering soon

Sorry that I was trying to get every last morsel of info before dropping several hundred dollars ... my bad?

-vasu

 

Hey, gotta take a joke with the free advice, vas : )

Please let us know how it turns out. Gotta build up the reservoir of knowledge.

 

That's funny that you called me vas, that's been my nick name since 2nd grade

So yeah ... the plan that's getting executed...

Stage 1: CDT CL-61A speakers getting installed in front and previous car's Polk dx9 6x9s installed in rear deck, filtered to 80hz and below, and powered off the Alpine MRP-F200 amp.

Stage 2: Replace the back 6x9's with MBQuart RCE 6x9 ... sell the crossovers and tweeters on ebay... or possibly go with some other brand..if any exist/are recomended

Stage 3 optional: Install JL Audio VR650-CXi 6.5" coaxials or CDT CL6x Coaxials in rear doors. Switch front components and rear doors to the Alpine Amp and then purchase a sperate 2 channel amp for the MBQuart RCE 6x9s.

Stage 4: rock out.

-vasu

 

Afternoon update:

1) Ordered the CDT CL-61

2) talked to a local install shop, they said they'd install the amp and do the doors and dash tweets for $270 included parts. $30 of that is just for installing the tweeters, and I think they just mean poping the dash grill off, installing the tweet, and popping it back on. I might skip that.

I might also skip the door install and save even more, basically just getting the amp bypass and new amp install done.

Do you guys think $270 is a fair price for the parts and labor for a full install? (bring my own amp, and speakers)

-vasu

 

I don't know if the tweets in the TSX are the sawe way they are in the Civic Si, but if so I had to dremel my mounts down for my tweeters to fit.

 

replacing the tweeters might not be as simple as you think. i know my shop had to do some customizing to the grill covers to make my tweeters fit.

 

jaydub: the tsx tweeters are in the dash, not the door sail panels (where I had custom mounted my jl tweeters in my 98 accord).

jiggaman: I think i read somwhere that larger tweeters need some custom install work, but the included tweeters in the comp set i'm getting are 3/4" and I think would fit under the factory grills. I also saw a thread where someone held them in place to the grill using zipties.


-vasu

 

mine are rubber cemented and are one inch tweeters

 

will there eventually be aftermarket kits so that we can mount tweeters in this location.?

 

With the rubber cement ... do you cement your tweet to the factory grill ... or cement down the tweeter and flush mount bracket to the factory tweet hole? (heh..tweet hole)

-vasu

 

Alright, I've got everything planned out, all parts have been ordered or are being ordered as we speak.

The front comp set and rear door speakers are going to be CDT and will be run off an Alpine 40x4 amp. The rear deck speakers are going to be Polk dx9 for a few months until I get those MBQuark 6x9 comps and they'll be powered from a 50x2 (or more) amp, probably a Hifonics (which i've read are a good bang for a buck). The Polks and later the MBQuarts, will be filtered 90 or 80hz down, or there abouts.

Two last questions (don't worry, it's not as stupid as my previous questions):

1) So it's 4ch into the stock amp. Basically the front 2ch are going into the new amp and coming out into the crossover box. The back 2ch, I guess I'll have to split that twice, with 1 leg going to channels 3 and 4 of the alpine and the 2nd leg going into the 2nd 2ch amp.

That'll give me 4 rca plugs from 2ch, and plugged into 2 different amps. This will allow me to keep the front/rear fader right. If I faded all to the front the back 4 speakers will go out, and if i faded to the back, only the components will turn off, right?

2) Would it be a bad idea (just double checking here) to run the front comps and the rear door speaker in parallel off the F channel of the alpine amp? So all the door speakers and tweeters run in parallel off 2 channels.

Just about done, should have everything installed by the end of next week. I'll probably get a shop to do the amp install and bypass, and i'll do the speaker installs myself.

-vasu

 

You mean after a dozen PMs and numerous questions on forum posts, most of the provided answers to which you seem to have pretty much completely ignored, you still have two more questions you want people to answer?

Honestly, I'm not confident at all that you listen to the answers provided for free, so answering your questions seems a little like, in the words of Sam Kinison, "masturbating with a cheese grater - slightly amusing, but mostly painful".

When Henry Ford was asked how to be more successful, he replied, "double your failure rate". I've decided that me answering your questions is actually me holding you back. You can benfit from making mistakes, by trial and error, by learning by doing, by fixing your own errors. Otherwise, how will you learn? I've been allowing my ability to answer questions (with the right answers, IMO) to get in the way of your leanring process, grasshopper. My bad! Sorry!

My sincere apologies for my disempowering you earlier, but best of luck, and please let us know how things go!

Regards,

The Dude.

 

you replied to those 2 questions in PM, thanks for the answer

But i wanted comments from others, note how I didn't personally address you in the post.

I went ahead and got a 2nd amp. all speakers are getting replaced, all are being powered by an amp.


To use another quote..in the words of, well anyone's mother "if you don't have anything nice to day, don't say anything"

Just ignore it if you hate this, this thread was for others to reply to

I'm dropping nearly a grand here, and if I want to make sure I have every possible thing considered, I'd like to. No one said you had to answer every time, you already said your peice, so stop replying saying how much of jackass I am. I got it, ok?

-vasu

 

el dude is very generous with his time/answers. understandable that you want to double-check your plans, but rely on your own common sense a bit more maybe?

(1) you've answered your own question here. the fader controls levels of the 2 front and 2 rear pre-amp signals. obviously whatever is running off the rear lines will fade out when panning to the front, regardless of how many speakers you have hooked up there.

(2) your 40x4 amp has a ~0.05% chance of powering 4 door speakers in parallel and 2 rear deck 6x9s. make sure you have 6 channels of amplification.

 

and I'm very gracious for his help and patience, but he already told me in private message that this was something he didn't like/advise, etc and to open it up to the general forum for other opinions and takes, and that's what I was doing.

There was no answer before on running 6 speakers off a 4ch amp, so that's why I asked. Thanks davestar for the answer.

And i wasn't answering my question as much as I was confirming what I thought, so thanks again for that.

I'll let you know how it turns out. Should be done in a week or so

-vasu

 

i should have said, "your 40x4 amp has a ~0.05% chance of powering 4 door speakers in parallel and 2 rear deck 6x9s cleanly"

(can't edit posts for some reason)

 

thank ya kindly sir, that's all i needed to know

the zeb just let me know that my CDT components and coaxial and hifoncs amp shipped ... here we go

I'm gunna dig through the box of stuff they recovered from my previous car (accident) and see if the Polk dx9's came out unscathed, if so I might drop those in this weekend. And if the previous JL comps are also in good condition, I'll sell those.

CAN'T WAIT HATE PIONEER MUST DESTROY CRUSH CRUSH CRUSH

-vasu

 

When you put in the x9's go to Circuit city and get the Honda Metra speaker harness. You can use the same one for the 03-04 accord. If you say TSX they might not know what it is. That way you won't have to cut anything. Have fun!

 

I picked up a few of these harnesses on my way home and will drop in my 6x9's this evening while in the car to install the PIE adapter (like the soundgate one). I'll use the harness for a week or so before installing the new amps, and then just run some fresh wire 10 inches up to the speakers.

-vasu