UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

Which capacitor would be best suited for this type of set up?

1 audison lrx 4.300
1 audison lrs 1.400
1 JL W3
Boston pro60 componets x 2

2 Farad?
5 Farad?
15 Farad?

Audio experts I need your advise FAST!!!

Thanks for all your help in advance!!!

phipark

They say 1F for every 1000 watts RMS. You'll be fine with the 2F cap.

hornyleprechaun

I've heard from many competition people that caps are worthless.. you are better to just do the Big 3 upgrade (do a search through google) and then if that still isn't good enough you should just upgrade your alternator and/or get an additional battery.

I have a 800 watt powering my speakers and a 500 powering my 12W6V2 and I ran 0 gauge to a distro block in the trunk. The only part of the Big 3 upgrade I have done so far is 0 gauge from battery negative terminal to chasis of car. My headlights do not dim at all when the sub hits.. and this sub hits really nice.

I have a 1.2 farad cap that I was going to install, but since I don't need it anymore I would sell it to you for $40 shipped. It was $60 brand new from www.knukonceptz.com and all their stuff is top quality. Just send me a pm if you are interested or want links to threads saying why caps are not needed.

UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the help there...what do you guys think about power acoustik? alumapro? or any other brands?

withoutcomp1

iTrader: (1)

Caps are not worthless! A second battery is worthless! The only good a second battery is if if you are pumping the system without the car running. In fact a second battery is going to hurt you if you don't have a upgraded alternator because the stock alternator has to work twice as hard to charge two batterys instead of one. A cap is useless to a spl competitor because a cap is meant hold power between bass notes, a sound competior usually just burps the subs with one note, therefore the cap would not do anything for them. Don't buy a piece of shit 1 farad cap, that is a waste of money, I used alot of the rockford 5o and 100 farads, but what i have been using is the alumapro 15 farad, which is my recomendation to you, hope this helps!

UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

thanks withoutcomp1....i've been searching the forum for cap questions and other sites...i'm leaning towards 2-5 farad caps...either alumapro, stinger, or fosgate...thanks for the help all...it's time to find the best pricing....a suggestions?

withoutcomp1

iTrader: (1)

i would def make alumapro my first choice. Check this out 5 farad they also have some 15 farads.

Madeline

Caps are just band aids for daily drivers. You need to consider that a capacitor adds more load, thus your alternator needs to charge it as well. It's pointless to add more resistance if you don't have enough juice in the first place.

My recommendation is always do the BIG 3 first. It's should be the first step, no matter what. Plus it is the cheapest.

Then check to see if you are still getting voltage drops.

If you aren't, your done, if you are, I would suggest a new High Output Alternator. Get it rewound/rebuilt or buy a new one. I personally bought a used OEM acura tl one then sent it to Ohio Generators to have them rebuild it. Cost me about $300 and I'm getting almost 200amps

Then again check to see if you are still getting voltage drops.

If you aren't, your done, if you are, I would suggest getting a deep cycle battery, I prefer Kenetik.

If you are in competition, obviously the more the better. 2+ alternators 2+ batteries, you get the idea. Whatever your system call for based on the amps it draws.

J

hornyleprechaun

Thanks Madeline for confirming my statement.. Caps are really not worth it uneekling.. Do the Big 3 Upgrade first and see if you need to do anything after that.. like I said before I only upgraded the negative (battery) to the chasis to 0 gauge and I experience no problems..


Link to Big 3 upgrade kits.. http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=28_56

UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

i'm not too familiar with this...which exact kits would i need to buy? see first post for exact items that i have...thanks all for help...

hornyleprechaun

are you only running a 400 watt and 300 watt amp? If so, what gauge wire do you plan on running to power these 2 amps? IMO if you are only running 700 watts you won't need to do the Big 3 upgrade.. I was running a 800 watt amp and my carputer and had no problems at all with just 4 gauge wire -> distribution block -> 8 gauge to amp and one to carputer..

withoutcomp1

iTrader: (1)

That is what i am saying, He does not have that much power to even bother with that, the stock is fine for what he has. A cap is not a band aid, if you think about what you said that your adding more resistance by adding a cap your wrong, without a cap the amp is taking it's power directly from the alternatorcausing the alternator to work harder, once you add in a cap your putting less strain your alternator. I have been a professional installer for 15 years now i work at 212 Motoring in Brooklyn Ny I had my own shop, Trust me i know what i am talking about, I work on hundred thousand dollar cars every day with much more complicated charging systems then a honda or acura. Do a 2006 Range Rover Sport without a 15 farad cap and then come talk to me. GET THE CAP! But like i said before only a good one!

hornyleprechaun

You do not need a cap when you are only powering 700 watts.. Answer my first question with what you are wiring the system with 0/1 or 4 gauge to a distribution block?

withoutcomp1

iTrader: (1)

if your lights don't dim when your bass hits it doesn't mean that a cap won't do anything for you because it will, It help the amp not starve for power in tern causing it to heat up faster and work harder. So if i were you i would go with the 5 farad aluma pro.

withoutcomp1

iTrader: (1)

How many ohms is your w3, 2 or 4?

UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

thanks again for all the advise...i belive i'm running a 4 ohm w3...the system is not installed yet....and i'm leaning towards the 5 farad alumapro....again...really appreciate the help and i will keep yall posted on how everything turns out....

Madeline

It does add more resistance because a cap needs to be charged as well, which draws directly from your alternator. Caps are used for power spikes but you need to have enough juice to begin with to use them properly. You can't just add them to your application and expect to see your voltage regulate or go up. More over, Caps release is usually less than 1 second. So what good does it actually do for you if you add only a cap to your system and the power spike is over 1 second. Meaning a bass note for over 1 second?

It's just not the proper way to regulate voltage drops.