Dynamat ?
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
THe way I do it is to use news paper to make a template, trace it on the dynamat, cut it out. Do a quick fit test before the next step. Peel the liner back as you stick it down to the surface. Don't peel it all off, just as you need to stick it to the surface. Work out all the bubbles as you lay it down. When the danamat is on the surface, use your finger, knuckles, or a roller to press the dynamat down into all the corners and curves. If there's still any trapped bubbles, use an X-acto knife and pocke small holes to pop them then press them down to the surface. The trick here is try to get all the bubbles out.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
I don't think installing damping material is challenging, but I always feel worked over after doing a lot of it.
I find that heating ANY damping material helps with the adhesive activation, as well as making it more flexible and easier to form and get bubble out of. I use a heat gun available at Home Depot. I also find that looks don't dictate effectiveness - if you do smaller pieces and patchwork things, you get the same effect as trying to make it look die-cut.
I find that heating ANY damping material helps with the adhesive activation, as well as making it more flexible and easier to form and get bubble out of. I use a heat gun available at Home Depot. I also find that looks don't dictate effectiveness - if you do smaller pieces and patchwork things, you get the same effect as trying to make it look die-cut.
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Polar Chicken
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 940
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix
I ahve done my entire car at this time, doors, floor and trunk, and have the following tidbits:
1. The doors make the most noticable difference.
2. When I removed the seats/carpet I wish I had doubbled the floor but I did not have
enough material.
3. Plan on 115 square feet + depending on how much you do. Doors are about 10sqft a
door.
4. Trunk is about 30 sqft.
5. Floor is about 40 sqft.
6. Remember, while this will lower the abient noise in the car, individual rattles will be much
more pronounced.
7. I use 3 different products when I did my car and I would stay away from the B-Quiet Brown Bread as after 6 months it started to peel off of the roof of my trunk. It simply does not adhear as good as other brands. Edead seems to have heald up pretty well and is a little thicker than the B-quiet. However it is much cheaper than Dynomat. I did use some Dynomat and I simply dont belive it is worth the price as you can esentialy buy twice the amount of other brands over Dynomat.
B-Quiet Brown Bread:
60 Mills (Seems thinner than the Edead)
$2.40 per sqft
http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
Edead
45 Mills thick.
$1 per sqft
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product....&pid=7&cur=USD
DynaMat Extream: Completly unrelistic, you would need 3 roles to do your car, thats almost $1000.
36 sq. ft.
MRSP is $249.95 + shipping
$7.00 per sqft
1. The doors make the most noticable difference.
2. When I removed the seats/carpet I wish I had doubbled the floor but I did not have
enough material.
3. Plan on 115 square feet + depending on how much you do. Doors are about 10sqft a
door.
4. Trunk is about 30 sqft.
5. Floor is about 40 sqft.
6. Remember, while this will lower the abient noise in the car, individual rattles will be much
more pronounced.
7. I use 3 different products when I did my car and I would stay away from the B-Quiet Brown Bread as after 6 months it started to peel off of the roof of my trunk. It simply does not adhear as good as other brands. Edead seems to have heald up pretty well and is a little thicker than the B-quiet. However it is much cheaper than Dynomat. I did use some Dynomat and I simply dont belive it is worth the price as you can esentialy buy twice the amount of other brands over Dynomat.
B-Quiet Brown Bread:
60 Mills (Seems thinner than the Edead)
$2.40 per sqft
http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
Edead
45 Mills thick.
$1 per sqft
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product....&pid=7&cur=USD
DynaMat Extream: Completly unrelistic, you would need 3 roles to do your car, thats almost $1000.
36 sq. ft.
MRSP is $249.95 + shipping
$7.00 per sqft
Polar Chicken
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 940
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix
Removing the Door Panels: (What I did)
1. Remove the screw from behind the interior door lever.
2. remove the screws from under the rubber cover in the door handle.
3. remove the window controls and unplug it
4. Pop the cover off from the bottem up, (little plastic clips in place)
5. I cut templetes out of cardboard and than cut the B-Quiet.
6. When you apply it to the door cut around the wires, if you cover them you could be in for a challange down the road if you ever have an electical problem.
7. Dont cover the holes for the white plastic clips that hold the door panel in place. (Ops)
1. Remove the screw from behind the interior door lever.
2. remove the screws from under the rubber cover in the door handle.
3. remove the window controls and unplug it
4. Pop the cover off from the bottem up, (little plastic clips in place)
5. I cut templetes out of cardboard and than cut the B-Quiet.
6. When you apply it to the door cut around the wires, if you cover them you could be in for a challange down the road if you ever have an electical problem.
7. Dont cover the holes for the white plastic clips that hold the door panel in place. (Ops)
trill recognize trill
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,222
Likes: 1
From: htown, tx
Originally Posted by Zasker1
I ahve done my entire car at this time, doors, floor and trunk, and have the following tidbits:
1. The doors make the most noticable difference.
2. When I removed the seats/carpet I wish I had doubbled the floor but I did not have
enough material.
3. Plan on 115 square feet + depending on how much you do. Doors are about 10sqft a
door.
4. Trunk is about 30 sqft.
5. Floor is about 40 sqft.
6. Remember, while this will lower the abient noise in the car, individual rattles will be much
more pronounced.
7. I use 3 different products when I did my car and I would stay away from the B-Quiet Brown Bread as after 6 months it started to peel off of the roof of my trunk. It simply does not adhear as good as other brands. Edead seems to have heald up pretty well and is a little thicker than the B-quiet. However it is much cheaper than Dynomat. I did use some Dynomat and I simply dont belive it is worth the price as you can esentialy buy twice the amount of other brands over Dynomat.
B-Quiet Brown Bread:
60 Mills (Seems thinner than the Edead)
$2.40 per sqft
http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
Edead
45 Mills thick.
$1 per sqft
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product....&pid=7&cur=USD
DynaMat Extream: Completly unrelistic, you would need 3 roles to do your car, thats almost $1000.
36 sq. ft.
MRSP is $249.95 + shipping
$7.00 per sqft
1. The doors make the most noticable difference.
2. When I removed the seats/carpet I wish I had doubbled the floor but I did not have
enough material.
3. Plan on 115 square feet + depending on how much you do. Doors are about 10sqft a
door.
4. Trunk is about 30 sqft.
5. Floor is about 40 sqft.
6. Remember, while this will lower the abient noise in the car, individual rattles will be much
more pronounced.
7. I use 3 different products when I did my car and I would stay away from the B-Quiet Brown Bread as after 6 months it started to peel off of the roof of my trunk. It simply does not adhear as good as other brands. Edead seems to have heald up pretty well and is a little thicker than the B-quiet. However it is much cheaper than Dynomat. I did use some Dynomat and I simply dont belive it is worth the price as you can esentialy buy twice the amount of other brands over Dynomat.
B-Quiet Brown Bread:
60 Mills (Seems thinner than the Edead)
$2.40 per sqft
http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html
Edead
45 Mills thick.
$1 per sqft
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product....&pid=7&cur=USD
DynaMat Extream: Completly unrelistic, you would need 3 roles to do your car, thats almost $1000.
36 sq. ft.
MRSP is $249.95 + shipping
$7.00 per sqft
VP Electricity
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 8
From: Portland OR US
I would toss in VMAX from Cascade, which is similar to Super Dynamat but is more flexible and seems to have a better adhesive (per my installer).
It is a butyl rubber sheet with an aluminum backing (black aluminum: ) and we did 1 package in each door of a Civic Si yesterday. The car was running a Nak CD HU and a set of $150 DLS 6.5 coaxials. No amp. But after hearing it, you would swear we put a nice 30W x 2 amp in this thing - I was floored. I thought he might be disappointed in the damping, it was his idea to go with one $35 package of VMAX in each F door, and I was worried he wouldn't get his money's worth. I was totally wrong.
You can get VMAX at Parts Express. Sometimes I can give you a better deal, but they do sell below MSRP.
It is a butyl rubber sheet with an aluminum backing (black aluminum: ) and we did 1 package in each door of a Civic Si yesterday. The car was running a Nak CD HU and a set of $150 DLS 6.5 coaxials. No amp. But after hearing it, you would swear we put a nice 30W x 2 amp in this thing - I was floored. I thought he might be disappointed in the damping, it was his idea to go with one $35 package of VMAX in each F door, and I was worried he wouldn't get his money's worth. I was totally wrong.
You can get VMAX at Parts Express. Sometimes I can give you a better deal, but they do sell below MSRP.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 4
From: 808
i was gonna get some edead,
any reviews of it yet?
i was thinking of using the v.1 in conjuction w/ the v.3 or would i just be better off using v.1 se?
has anyone tried any of these combinations yet?
thanks
any reviews of it yet?
i was thinking of using the v.1 in conjuction w/ the v.3 or would i just be better off using v.1 se?
has anyone tried any of these combinations yet?
thanks
I=X - optomos
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 2
From: ATL
Originally Posted by Osamu
i was gonna get some edead,
any reviews of it yet?
i was thinking of using the v.1 in conjuction w/ the v.3 or would i just be better off using v.1 se?
has anyone tried any of these combinations yet?
thanks
any reviews of it yet?
i was thinking of using the v.1 in conjuction w/ the v.3 or would i just be better off using v.1 se?
has anyone tried any of these combinations yet?
thanks
Code:
"I spent all day yesterday putting 120 square feet of eDead in my truck ('84 4runner) yesterday. I took everything out of the truck and did the floors, walls, and doors. I didnt do the roof b/c it's a removable fiberglass top. I was able to put in two layers on the floor in front and the inner firewall, also put two layers on outer door skin and one on inner door skin.
I also put about 90 square feet of 8 lb carpet padding in. Did the floors and used spray adhesive to put it on top of the edead on the side walls, and i took the leftover and rolled it up and stuffed it down the sides too.
Overall it made a big difference. It's a 20 year old truck with mud tires, and before this when I would drive down the road, especially the highway, I couldnt even hear myself think. There is very little road noise now and the doors are solid as a rock.
However, the engine noise is still pretty loud. I expected that though b/c i could only go up a little ways on the inner firewall before the dash and steering column got in the way. I think it would help a lot if I got a hoodliner also, b/c it currently has nothing! I think Dynamat makes one, but it's like $70.
Overall, it was worth my 14 hours of time and $150. Road noise is MUCH less than before, and I'm looking forward to seeing how it helps with cooling in the summer heat here in Florida. A few things i learned along the way:
-use smaller sections where there are a lot of contours to reduce air bubbles
-peel off the backing of only the top of your section that you are working with, attach that, and then work the backing off as you attach the rest. i found that when i peeled off the whole thing that it stuck to everything and itself.
-watch out, it's sharp! I cut myself a couple times pressing down the edges. kind of like a paper cut, doesnt happen often, but it hurts when it does!
-make sure that you mark where important holes for your bolts for your seats, etc. i also found that it is better to cut out the pieces of eDead over these holes shortly after you lay it down b/c it seems like the bond gets stonger after even an hour or so, makes it harder to peel off the small piece that you cut out.
anyways, just thought i would share my experience with the eDead. Good stuff. Easy to apply and sticks well."
pretty much
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 20,558
Likes: 5
From: Long Beach, CA
Where to apply sound deadening on doors?
I've been reading through the DYI threads for replacing the front speakers on my 04 TSX and I'm thinking I could probably do it myself. While I have the door panels off I'd like to apply sound deadening material but I don't know exactly where to apply it to. I've linked this pic from chrishorne.com which shows the rear door with the panel removed. I haven't found pics of the front doors. I'm assuming that the front doors look similar.
Where do you apply the Dynamat (or Cascade)? Do you put it right on top of the plastic liner? Do you take the liner off and try to apply it to the interior surface of the door panel? Just behind the speaker? Onto the inside surface of the door panel?
Any help (and pics if possible) would be greatly appreciated by this
Where do you apply the Dynamat (or Cascade)? Do you put it right on top of the plastic liner? Do you take the liner off and try to apply it to the interior surface of the door panel? Just behind the speaker? Onto the inside surface of the door panel?
Any help (and pics if possible) would be greatly appreciated by this
Polar Chicken
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 940
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix
Where to Place it
[IMG][/IMG]What I did on my TSX, was to:
1. Pull the liner.
2. Clean liner resudue with some deluted alocholol.
3. I than cut a 3'x3' sheet (give or take a little) and installed a single pice in place of the plastic liner. I attached it just to the lip at the top of the window first and than cut holes for all of the various wires, clips, latches, and the yellow screwo holes..
[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\MarcusC\Desktop\Edit.jpg[/IMG]
4. I also took a 1inch by 12 inches stip and wrapped it around the speaker to make a better seal.
5. leave a narrow gap around the driver/passanger door locks at the top else the window will sqeak when you open/close it in dry weather.
Its probalby a good idea to also install some dynomat inside against the body sheet metal but I had already painted on some dampning material so I skipped that part.
1. Pull the liner.
2. Clean liner resudue with some deluted alocholol.
3. I than cut a 3'x3' sheet (give or take a little) and installed a single pice in place of the plastic liner. I attached it just to the lip at the top of the window first and than cut holes for all of the various wires, clips, latches, and the yellow screwo holes..
[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\MarcusC\Desktop\Edit.jpg[/IMG]
4. I also took a 1inch by 12 inches stip and wrapped it around the speaker to make a better seal.
5. leave a narrow gap around the driver/passanger door locks at the top else the window will sqeak when you open/close it in dry weather.
Its probalby a good idea to also install some dynomat inside against the body sheet metal but I had already painted on some dampning material so I skipped that part.
Last edited by Zasker1; May 31, 2005 at 07:43 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 20,558
Likes: 5
From: Long Beach, CA
Originally Posted by Zasker1
I tried to post a picture but I dont see any instructions on how to do this.
To post a picture you first need to host it somewhere. I use Imageshack Once you upload your picture to imageshack (or your location of choice) just put its address between image tags like this [IMG]address[/IMG]
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