Tried looking to see if this question was asked but didn't find it so here goes:

1. Has anyone replaced the door speakers (not sub) with aftermarket ones?
2. Are the connections compatible (harness)?
3. Is the HU good enough to push the aftermarket speakers (ie:Pioneer, etc.)

Thanks!

 

1) Yes, you can fit 5.25 or 6.5 inch speakers, some require some cutting of the sheet metal to make them fit, but no big deal. The only issue, is there isnt much depth. So if you have a deep speaker, you will have to make a mouting ring/spacer out of wood.
2) Yes, I believe Metra makes one.
3) Yes and No, power wise yes, but the sound will be very bright because the stock EQ boost the treble very high to compensate for the shitty Bose speaker.

I recommend spending some good money and replace everything you can with quality equipment - I mean you are driving a nice car, give it a nice system.

 

OU Sig,

That's interesting that you mentioned the the EQ boosts the treble because of the shitty bose speakers. I just replaced my stockers for the infinity 6.5's and notice a hugh treble difference.

If I added an aftermarket amp for the speakers as well as one to drive a new sub, can I run an LOC or line driver from the EQ? Also, where the hell is the EQ anyways?

I'm looking to avoid running tons of wires from the head unit back to the trunk, and back up front for the front speakers. I just bought my 2000 TL and this will be the first vehicle in 10 years that I haven't replaced the HU and ran all new wires instead of using the existing wires. I would like to tap into the wires from either the amp or EQ.

 

do some searches, but I know that you can bypass the stock EQ to avoid that treble boost. you just tap into the wires on the back of the HU with some line output convertors, and go from there. sorry, but I just ripped everything out!!

 

Hello All,
Getting the Bose system out should as a prerequisite. I recently installed Focal 165K2P components in the doors powered by a JL 300/4 and the difference is profound. Aside from the steering wheel controls, the factory deck is an anchor. There are interfaces to keep the steering wheel controls intact with an aftermarket H/U but it is far from perfect. More than anything, an aftermarket deck allows far greater flexibility in the subwoofer department. That is if the basso profundo of the almighty bose "subwoofer" does not already get your ya-ya's out. The Metra kit is ok at best somewhat cheesy.
The Bose factory speakers might be quite possibly the cheapest drivers I have ever seen.
Cheers,
Jstadt

2000 3.2 TL
Alpine CDA-9815
Alpine TUA-X020 XM
JL Audio 500/1
JL Audio 300/4
Focal 165K2P (2)
JL 12W7 Prowedge
1 Farad Capacitor

 

hey jstadt you think the bose system in the tl is bad you should have seen the speakers they put in my mothers crv.. lol.. the basket on them were plastic and the magnet was about the size of a 1in focal tweeter magnet.. the cone was still constructed out of that lame paper just like the bose..

 

Yeah, I'm replacing the "door speakers" with 6.5 JL COAX's and 6x9 Three Way Speakers (back), and, in theory, it's going to work. The guy at the place said everything would work great, I'll let you know otherwise.

He did, however, said that I didn't have to replace the HU, but recommended it.

BTW, I have a '96 2.5TL.

 

Has anyone measured the ohm rating of the factory door driver for a Second Generation Bose speaker?? If so, have you measured the sensativity (SPL).

All I want to do is replace the door speakers. Leave the stock sub, HU, amps, EQ in the car only because beak-ins are pretty common around here. There's no alarm or locked garage that'll stop these people either.....

 

the door speakers are nearly 4 ohm...as for sensitivity I dont know. So you can replace them with new speakers just fine, but as my previous post said...your trebble will be very loud.

 

Thanks- I can deal with the excess treble just fine (mine's cranked up to the top anyway so I'll just turn it down). Gee, can you tell I have horn loaded speakers in my home system (Klipsch)??

 

HaHAHA, which Klipsch? I have the KLF-20's actually - I think I am addicted to the Klipsch sound also!

 

That's exactly what I have, not enough room for Klipschorns

I did rewire the inside of mine with 12ga. Monster Cable. Definitley toned them down a bit. Here's the whole setup for now. Well, till I can get a McIntosh C40 or C42 preamp and put the C33 in my study. :P Can't waite to outfit the whole thing with Kimber Hero interconnects!!

 

Sounds nice, do you have the KLF-C7 center channel? Or is this setup just for stereo?
I am looking for one, and cant seem to get my hands on one.

 

Naw, it's just two channel. My girlfriend loves to re-arange the furniture twice a year and every time she does it I have to take new SPL measurements. There is always one or two pieces of furniture that are new/different so just plugging in the new settings isn't as easy.

The C7 is indeed getting very hard to find for under $400 or any other price. eBay or audiogon.com is still probably going to be teh best place to get one as long as you want it in black. My 20's are in Mahogany so finding one in that finish, I think, is nill.

THEN someday I'll get a new amp. Still not sure if I want to go tubes or stay with SS and get a Mac MC202. They're out of production now so one may come up at Audio Classics.

Of course all this is going to have to wait. I've got a gun that I use for CCW at Cylinder & Slide that's due to come back in a few weeks, so that's when teh final payment is due (ouch).

 

Ya I can imagine the pain of moving these beasts around twice a year! I have seen a few of the C7's on ebay recently but none have been black...a Mahogany one just sold not more than a week or so ago actually...but I am on the lookout for a black one for sure.

good luck with that payment though - I hate making payments on stuff.

 

Have you had to replace the tweeter diaphrams yet??

I had to do mine twice already. I found that if you put an automotive light bulb in line with the neg. terminal going to the tweeter. The louder you turn up the volume the more that bulb will start to glow and absorbe some of the power going to the diaphram. Kind of a auto-adjustable resistor. Haven't found any sound difference yet...... :P

 

I actually havent, but I have seen speakers that use that kind of protection. Might be a good idea because I have a 200 watt/channel amp on them .

Did you get them through Klipsch? and how much were they? one more....did the tweeter just shut off or what, I mean how can you tell if that happens?

 

Hey guys,

What is the actual size of the door speakers? I heard they are 6", is this correct? I know a lot of companies do not make that size but I found a few top quality speakers that are 6". Also, how deep can you go. Someone told me not more then 2"?

 

did you not read the second post in this thread???

 

I did call Klipsch to get 'em. I think they ran about $40/pair.

These speakers love to run on a flat setting on an EQ if you have one. I boosted the bass just a hair (2db) because the room's natural acoustics really stink. At 100db sensitivity it's easy to fry the tweeters with an overdriven signal from a clipping amp (my Carver MX130 Receiver was classic for this and fried the first two sets of diaphragms). If the diaphragms blow the only thing you might notice is that the music just won't have the sparkle that they used to. Put a towel or a sock in the mid-range horn and put your ear up to the tweeter horn. You'll be able to tell. They won't crackle or anything like that, they'll just be silent.

One of the best things to do with these things is to play a pink/white noise through them at a volume you normally listen to your music at and (treble turned ALL the way down) and move the speaker systematically "so" many inches from the side and rear wall where they sit. Take a reading with an SPL meter and plot the rise/fall from a given reference. i.e.- if @ 3" from the side wall and 4" from the rear wall you calibrate a "0" on the meter you can plot the differences for each inch you move them forward and away from each wall. Do this with the balance set to only one channel (left or right mains, left or right surrounds if you have them). If you want I can e-mail ya an Excel spreadsheet of what mine turned out like in finding the magic spot to put those mini-monsters. The bass will be very respectable for 4-10" woofers. After you do that to about 14" on each wall just read the highest level from the meeting point of X and Y-axis and set the speaker in that position. Just takes a couple hours to do and I suggest wearing some ear protection. I do have mine toed in so the centerline crosses in between two chairs that we sit in at the other end of the room (commonly known as the "listening position").

Also, I have Vibrapods under all my equipment except the speakers. Keeping the speakers well anchored to the floor is good (if you have carpet I strongly suggest using the floor spikes that came with the 20's) but vibrating equipment will kill the clear dynamics of the upper registers (muddy sounding treble). Just don't buy into those spikes that are used for the turntable (yes, I'm 38 years old ), cd/dvd player, amp, preamp etc. They don't do alot, and can reverse the direction as far as wanting them to be "suspended" from the vibrations created by the speakers that vibrate the rest of the room. The clarity of the mids and highs will come out.

BTW- Yes, I bi-wired them too with a set of MIT Terminator2 speaker cables from Audio Advisor when they had one helluva sale on them (12'). The greater the impedance difference between the drivers in a single given speaker the more beneficial they'll be.

Sorry if you know all this and/or have done it already but this all took me a few hundred dollars needlessly spent and a number of frustrated days to figure out.

 

Ummm, yeah but it did not answer a single question that I posted

 

well not word for word, but I figgured you could read into it some...I said you can fit either 5.25 or 6.5 inch speakers...so I guess a 6 incher would work, I have never heard of one though. And yes the mounting depth is limited, so dont expect so cram a big ass 6.5 inch speaker in there. Mine are the "slim" series so I had no problem. I believe you can fit a 2.75 inch speaker in by making a mounting ring to bring the speaker forward some - more than that, and your door panel wont go back on.

 

The stock speaker is 6.5" because the speaker basket is 6.5". The actual speaker part is around 5.25" but the if you measure from the mounting holes its actually 6.5". Hard to describe i have a pic of the stock speaker that i'll post after i find it.

The factory mounting bracket is itself a .75" spacer, although you shouldn't use that cheap plastic to mount quality speakers in. With a .75" spacer you can go about 2.6" to 2.65" deep before hitting the window. What speakers are you looking to get?

 

Here are the ones I'm looking at right now.

http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...in=10&p_more=y

Is a .75" spacer the thickest that will go in there? These are measuring 2 13/64" in depth so I'm hoping they'll go...

The bass out of these was rather impressive for something so small being able to move that much air.

 

well you have to remember, you wont get that much bass from a speaker mounted in a door...just not enough air space for it to work with....unlike our Klipsch speakers!

 

Tom,

Those will fit. They are only about 2.2" deep. If your going to mount it to the factory speaker bracket you'll probably have to cut the back of the it off (very easy to do). You don't need to use more than a .75" spacer. But I believe people have used 1" spacers and were able to put the door panel back on.

 

Thanks VTEC11-

Looks like I'll be making the appointment to have them put in when the slosh fund says it's alright.

Kinda funny- it's a "Type-S" speaker